Hi All,

new member though i'd introduce myslef
I just acquired a manual tp se wagon with efi. there are a few issues i need to work through as its not registered and not driven for 2 years and i would like to get it on the road asap and i have never undertaken a project like this before and I have basic mechanical knowledge but pick things very quickly.

the issues i need to work through are:
1. clutch full of sludge - going to bleed this week end
2. radiator full of sludge has been drained and cleaned out but not flushed so still has some rust residue on hoses etc. will flush after attempted clutch fix/bleed.
3. parasitic drain that flattens the battery with in 3 days of no use sounds like something in the fuse box in engine bay as i can hear a whistle/whine when the battery is connected.
4. rust spots all over roof and some on doors - can it pass qld roadworthy with some rust/
5. wiper control switch is loose and continuously shows wipers on intermittent yet not on at all.
5. engine is rough on idle and feels like it's going to stall (revs drop to abut 2-300) while idling but give it some throttle and it seems smoother about 1200rpm.
6. radio is dead no code.
7. should i drop the tank and have it cleaned out or just fill it full of 98 octane and fuel system cleaner/octane booster and run it out.

One bonus there was no smoke or anything from exhaust while it was idling.
How easy are parts to pick from repco or autobarn?
Is it worth looking at changing the oil pump to a high flow pump and where can i get one? same for water pump?
i am not confident enough to do a timing chain change how much would a decent mechanic charge me to do this?

any help or advice on things to look for would be greatly appreciated.

thanks in advance

update:


just flushed the radiator all seems good.

idle's down around 500 rpm and rough when hot. when cold will not idle on its own. temp gauge sits around 1/4 when hot - thermo fan kicks in as it should. exhaust seems a bit moist and fairly hot on the hand

not much pressure(squashes easily between two fingers) in top and bottom pipes.
might pull plugs after clutch flush tomorrow

Sounds like the radiator cap and thermostat need replacing.

Should idle up to about 1200 rpm when cold - check that the ISC is working. Spark timing will need checking too.

If the car has been sitting around for 2 years, I'd drain the tank and clean it out.

From personal experience I know how much effort it takes to make a very neglected first genner run right, but it's worth the effort.

No such thing as a higher capacity water pump, and the oil pump is quite adequate if the engine is in reasonable condition. If you get bearing rattle at startup, try a thicker oil or a new engine!

Timing chains will rattle at startup if worn out. About $150 for the parts and about $50 per hour for labour. If you don't get rattle at startup don't worry about replacing chains, as in a well maintained engine (=regular oil changes) they can last up to 250,000 km. If it rattles at hot idle, then you know you need new chains and guides.

bled the clutch, refilled the radiator got much better pressure now hoses are firm musn't have put enough water in.

got the idle figured out for now - dont start it with aircon running so i guess maybe a new isc???

after all that i took it for a drive round the block sounds a bit like a lawn mower hill starts a bit hard with the idle set so low need to up it maybe but it think new pugs are in order as there are 2 different types in there and they are a little dirty but not fowled.

ls it possible to get it running super smoothly at idle; no shudder or engine rocking likes its gonna fall out - i know i'm going to have to do engine mounts :( as i have seen at least one that has a split in it.

just run some injector cleaner into the tank

you seem to be doing the right things
for a car that has been sitting

minor rust will pass as long as it isnt structual
any chance of a picture?

lol When these cars were new, there was an ad on TV: A glass of water sitting on the oil filler cap of a running engine. Just a ripple on the surface of the water! So yeh, they CAN run smoothly at idle, but that was quite a few years ago. lol Clogged injectors, leaky valves and rings, poor spark plugs and leads, collapsing hydraulic lifters etc etc.

PS Idle cold should be 1,200 rpm approx, settles down to 700 to 800 fairly quickly, but idles up to 1,000 with lights/aircon switched on. Thats the NORMAL ISC motor activity.

PS Idle cold should be 1,200 rpm approx, settles down to 700 to 800 fairly quickly, but idles up to 1,000 with lights/aircon switched on. Thats the NORMAL ISC motor activity.


thanks i will attempt the correct idle adjustment sequence form the gregorys manual that came with the car and if that doesn't work given the idle should increase "considerably" with a/c on and doesn't then will replace the isc and go from there, but before i do replace it i will change the oil, filter and spark plugs along with the thermostat and coolant to see if that makes and improvement. i know my rear engine and passenger side mount is torn so i guess i will be replacing all of them before it's roadworthy. Saying that i need to replace the windscreen wiper dial so a ring around to wreckers will be needed. i know i've got a lot of work ahead of me {whining} but i want it all done now...

EFI was standard in all TP SE's, manual and auto.