G'day all,
I am new to the forums and have a 02 TJ Magna Advance 3.5ltr.

I have spent about the last 2 weeks reading every thread i can about TJ's stalling for various reasons, and have tried most things suggested but am stuffed if i could figure out what is going on with mine.

Whats happening is when i am driving and slow down to a stop for traffic lights or whatever. The revs drop like they should but instead of getting to idle speed and staying there. They continue to drop then the battery light comes up and the engine stalls. The only way of preventing this is to push it in to neutral before u pull up to not let the revs drop too much.

The car starts fine again if u restart it and will happily sit there and idle. Its only when driving. And also happens alot worse if the engine has no load at all (i.e no air con on).

I have replaced the battery so that is fine. I have tried unplugging the ISC when its running and it doesn't stall.

Sometimes it starts a bit rough and struggles to find its idle speed properly but if you give it a quick rev or the A/C compressor kicks in its all good.

It has me stuffed. Any ideas??

Hey mate, welcome to the forums....

I am no expert, and don't want to steer you in the wrong direction, BUT, I had a similar issue on my TE. Turned out to be ECU related, I had unplugged the battery and when I plugged it back in I didn't re tune the ECU properly.

When I unplugged the battery again for a few minutes, then reconnected and started car and left it running for a few minutes without revving it, worked perfectly. I cant remember the exact ECU re tune technique, but a quick search should turn something up.

Hope that helps

I'm assuming you've got an auto?

as aRiOle said disconnect ur + and - terminals and leave it off for about 2-3 min then reconnect and start up ur car leave it running for 5 or so min then leave it running for another 5 or so min with the AC on, i just had this prob with my car the other day and now its all fixed and doesnt stall at all.

hope that helps man

If that doesn't fix it, look at the idle speed controller - they have 2 coils in them, one to idle up, one to idle down. If one coil burns out you either get a very high idle, or hardly any. Check it with a multimeter, can be done on the car. The socket has 2 rows of 3 pins, each set of 3 pins should give identical ohm readings compared to the other. If you get one open reading, it is unserviceable. In the meantime, practice left foot braking with the right foot keeping the idle up, as you glide to a stop at the lights. Takes some practice to get it right, but it can be done!

Another possibility is the ECU, the heater core can leak and affect the ECU.

From the service manual it looks like the 3.5L uses the same ISC as many other Mitsubishi's. It's actually a stepper motor with four windings. The ECU pulses them in sequence to step the pintle in and out. The two center pins of each row is common power from the MFI circuit and the other four pins the ends of the windings and run back to the ECU. Each should measure between 28 to 40 ohms.

Have you tried cleaning the throttle ody and associated areas with cary cleaner?

asically take the inlet off, spray and wipe the crap out of it. make sure to get it in the hole for the idle motor. Then take it for a really good strap around the local streets (keep within the legal limits)

this was the prolem with my partners car and it fixed it straight away.

Clean your TB. Clean your PCV valve. Fixes 99% of cr appy idle/stall problems.

Check the alternator! I had some similare problems but with a Camry. Or you can check the plug leads too.

Thanks for the replies everyone. Just got back from holidays and managed to reset the ECU(well i think i did anyway) seems to be all good now.
Now to fix the front bumper the sister in law smashed whilst we were away.... gotta love the in-laws.
Can anybody suggest any wreckers that will have front and rear bumpers that might be willing to freight to the NT.
I can't find anything locally. well nothing for under 500 bucks.