Hi all, I need to replace the outer CV boot on my L/H drive shaft, I have read the gregorys manual how to do it and its a real pain in the butt, is there any easy way to do it without taking out the whole drive shaft and relay shaft from the car? I have the shaft removed from the hub, is there a way to remove the CV joint from the drive shaft while its still in the car? cheers

you undo the keeper strap of the inner cv joint boot
closest to the gearbox

and the whole drive shaft comes out

you then need circlip pliers to remove the bearing cluster

the fit the new boot

there used to be a zippable type of cv boot on the market
that just wraped around the cv joint but dont know if they still sell them

You will need to lube the hell out of the boot

More necromancy. Can anyone tell me if there is a zippable CV joint boot available? I'd rather go the easy way on replacing them, if it's possible.

the boot was in one piece and used
small bolts to hold the boot togeather

cant find a pic of one

seen them on VWs and Subarus

last fiited one myself late 90s

I think the wrap around ones went out of fashion because you had to glue the two sides together before bolting them up, which is hard to do effectively with all that grease. I guess they just leaked. Seen them on the old Beetles, but there they don't need to keep grease in, just dirt out.

Just use the full version, after doing a few it will be a walk in the park. lol

Easiest method is to unclip the inner joint boot as suggested above, and just slide the inner joint out of the housing. Just don't get dirt on the bearings as you slide the shaft out from the car.

Alright, I'm looking through the book and like the OP says, it seems fairly complicated, and I'm thinking I should just pay to have someone do them for me. I'm thinking it'd be best to just replace the entire drive shafts, as there's a god-awful creaking going on every time the wheels are turned.

I am however thinking of buying my own parts and paying a shop for the labor. This was the cheapest I've found so far. (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220716898204&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT)

Being that I don't really have anyone to rely on to get me around if I screw shit up and my wife needs the car to do her job... I'm sweating the notion of screwing it up.

Hey Mate,

Perhaps speak to Madmagna as he is in VIC and should be able to source reasonable priced new drive shafts for a 3rd gen.

I just replaced my drivers side a few days ago. Not such a daunting task if you have some good stong tools and a bit of patience.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Just replaced mine yesterday. No more than a couple of hours work if you don't mind crawling around underneath and getting your hands dirty. I found I had to remove the two bolts holding the suspension onto the control arm assembly in order to free it up and allow removal of the drive shaft. Doesn't say to do it in the Haynes manual but did not see any other way. Mine wasn't making any grinding noise but the boot was stuffed. If yours is grinding, then best to change the CVs. My old man's let go as he was pulling out of a servo a few years back. He had to collect all the ball bearings that went scattering across the sidewalk. Counted his lucky stars he wasn't going down the freeway at 100Ks.

Alright, four months later, I've got the damn things ordered. Brand new L&R's for $180 plus shipping, about $20. I'm going to try my hand at this. Exactly what tools are recommended for this?

Being that this is the only ride, I don't want to get halfway into the damn thing and try to figure out how to rely one one of my lazy friends to eventually get over to me in a timely matter.

I read elsewhere something about box oil and replacing seals on a TR I think, does this also apply to the TF?

Decent set of combo spanners (up to 22mm is fine) for removing bits for access if needed, 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet drive, correct size socket for the drive shaft retaining nut (from memory my 94TR needed a size 32mm but just get out a ruler and check). Ensure socket fits on 1/2" breaker or ratchet. Torque wrench (as per workshop manual, retaining nut needs to be torqued to 200-260 Nm), tub of CV grease. Can't think of anymore right now...good luck to ya.

Did this on my KS Verada a few weeks ago: Very easy job, and the grease was supplied with the boot (from Repco).