On my TF Solara the clutch is starting to slip when I accelerate a little bit harder than normal.

I understand that it has a hydraulic clutch (according to Mitsubishi service department) but is the clutch adjustable at all?
Even just a little bit?

It is not adjustable, once it starts to slip it needs replacing

Sounds like it is time for a trip down here for a replacement. I have a special on Exedy kits presently, have fitted a few and members are very happy with them

just had mine replaced by mal with the $560 clutch kit and i couldnt be happier with it... has plent of bite and is easy enough to drive with out stalling or jerking...

very happy with mals work and would refur any one to him...

On a 3rd gen we used to have we could not adjust the clutch, but we were able to adjust the pedal. I think this isnt your case.

$560 for a clutch replacement sounds like a good price. Last time I did a FWD was more than $800, dont ask me about damn AWD's.

TP-Gangster thats not replacement thats the kit cost.. excludes fitting.

It is not adjustable, once it starts to slip it needs replacing

Sounds like it is time for a trip down here for a replacement. I have a special on Exedy kits presently, have fitted a few and members are very happy with them
Thanks Mal.

TP-Gangster thats not replacement thats the kit cost.. excludes fitting.

LOL thanks, If only...cheap to buy...cheap to fix.
What does the new clutch feel like? The 2 (guessing they were OEM) 3rd gen ones we had were average. saying that the boxes themselves were solid. they copped a hammering from yours truly. Subaru boxes on the other hand, If I find the turd who designed those.

On a 3rd gen we used to have we could not adjust the clutch, but we were able to adjust the pedal. I think this isnt your case.

$560 for a clutch replacement sounds like a good price. Last time I did a FWD was more than $800, dont ask me about damn AWD's.

Awd..... It's cheap $0 for a new clutch, (only came in auto)

As I understand it, for an Exedy they are roughly $560 for the clutch, labour is extra.. hopefully a bit cheaper with Madmagna purely cus Im sure he's done quite a few now...

Also my clutch is well dead too but found part of the reason it was REALLY REALLY slipping was because the clutch adjustment was off.. you might be able to move it a smidge if you have no freeplay to make sure its fully disengaging (in my case it had no freeplay and was a smidge off disengaging)

But really needs replacement.. money money next month. :P

Is there any differance between 3.0 and 3.5 clutch kits?

Is there any differance between 3.0 and 3.5 clutch kits?

I've just ordered a 230mm 3.5 clutch kit for my 3.0 from Mal.

Mal says it fits, so I listened to the expert and ordered it. :happy:

be careful, i have a 3.5L clutch in my 3.0l, and it has a longer throwout bearing by about 10mm (i think the guy put the wrong one in the kit), so i had to make a longer rod for the slave cylindar

i got the 230 mm in mine and mal installed it.. grips very nice.. very happy with it...

be careful, i have a 3.5L clutch in my 3.0l, and it has a longer throwout bearing by about 10mm (i think the guy put the wrong one in the kit), so i had to make a longer rod for the slave cylindar

incorrect, the throw out bearing for the TE - TW is the same part number right through. Even the 380 has the same throw out bearing part number. I have mixed and matched these for years for various reasons such as 3.0 flywheel with 3.5 kit, the other way around etc etc

I would say the one your mechanic has supplied you was off something else all together

The flywheel dimensions are exactly the same, i have personally measured both outer diam, inner friction edge, thickness etc etc.

The only time you may have issue is if you try and use an aftermarket (like exedy) 240mm plate as the rivets may touch the flywheel. This can be easilly resolved by machining a step into the flywheel.

The guys using the evo clutch turn the plate around, this is a big no no as the plate is not designed to spin backwards. Again you can machine the step or just use the proper clutch

Exedy list the 240mm plate for the TH onwards however this is incorrect, I have been speaking to exedy about this and they have advised me that they are going to be updating the listing at some stage although I will certainly not hold my breath

So just out of interest, and for the benefit of ppl who might be looking for a 3rd gen manual to buy (like me), what is the life expectancy of the original clutch if its not mistreated? I know that on a 2.6 TS it is good for 200,000 km plus, but I don't know about a v6 clutch robustness.

So just out of interest, and for the benefit of ppl who might be looking for a 3rd gen manual to buy (like me), what is the life expectancy of the original clutch if its not mistreated? I know that on a 2.6 TS it is good for 200,000 km plus, but I don't know about a v6 clutch robustness.

i pulled a factory clutch out of a TH 3.5L recently with 150,000kms on it.. car came from an older male from outside of sydney

in saying that i also pulled a TJ Sports clutch out about 2 years ago with 70,000kms on it.. spent its whole life in sydney, hardly any hwy use

comes down to the driver and the type of use the car has (city/hwy) ..

** extreme example from one of my cars... same style of clutch as a 3rd gen magna, in my evo8, lasted me 4,000kms .... due to 5,000rpm launches frequently **

So what is the rough cost of going to a normal mechanic to replace the clutch? I can't use Mal as I am in SA :(

my clutch cost 1200 fitted :(

this are the prices i was quoted in melbourne when i was looking for mine
ABS: CLUTCH REPLACEMENT
$1460
MIDAS..PBR clutch
$1480
mits service centre
$745parts+ $450labour

brake plus
$1500.

my manual TE clutch was replaced at around 150K and cost me about $1100. I couldn't figure out what was wrong and some people were telling me that i should drive slowly with the handbrake on to make it grip and s*** like that.. Finally took it in as i couldn't drive uphill any more and he said it was the clutch.. got an original mits one put in. Drove perfect after that.

Holy ratshit batman! So 217,000 Km out of a 2.6 L TS clutch that cost me $200 to replace was not at all bad then! Them third gen Magnas are sure expensive to run! lol (Ringwood autoparts still has the clutch I bought, at $149. Valeo brand, don't know how long they last, but it seems lighter than the original. Guess I won't have the car long enough to find out. They also have the clutch kit for the 3.5L, but its $575, no brand name given.)

No, putting all BS aside, this is another reason why I do my own work where I can, I'm way too stingy to pay a mechanik over 1 grand to do something that I can do myself. (Must have some Scottish or Jewish blood in me somewhere)

So just out of interest, and for the benefit of ppl who might be looking for a 3rd gen manual to buy (like me), what is the life expectancy of the original clutch if its not mistreated? I know that on a 2.6 TS it is good for 200,000 km plus, but I don't know about a v6 clutch robustness.

My '98 TF has 210,000 on it and the original clutch is just starting to slip a little bit, but only on very hard acceleration.

I'm replacing it now before it gets any worse.

Well I just got quoted $820 to replace all 4 corners with new springs and shocks and a new clutch. This is with me providing the shocks, springs and clutch. So just labour and oils from the mechanic...

Well I just got quoted $820 to replace all 4 corners with new springs and shocks and a new clutch. This is with me providing the shocks, springs and clutch. So just labour and oils from the mechanic...
they will want a good 1300 for that amount of work

incorrect, the throw out bearing for the TE - TW is the same part number right through. Even the 380 has the same throw out bearing part number. I have mixed and matched these for years for various reasons such as 3.0 flywheel with 3.5 kit, the other way around etc etc

I would say the one your mechanic has supplied you was off something else all together


and thats the conclusion i came to (as in post)

they will want a good 1300 for that amount of work

Well i asked him and he said, a full days work... so about $820. I would be pretty spewing if he said $820 and then charged me $1300!

Not really sure how people are getting over 200k's from a clutch, unless you have had the car since new dont assume is the original

Anyone wanting clutches for the thrid gen, look at my sponsor section, all prices are there

Second gen I can also do POA

Easy 1,500 rpm takeoffs, careful gear changes make a clutch last a long, long time! Not using down changes and the clutch to slow the car down helps too.
My clutch was original, TS 2.6L manual. Replaced at 217,000 km. Service records from previous owner shows no clutch work done. The amount of friction material build up in the bell housing indicated the clutch was very old. Started to slip because the friction material on the clutch cover side was worn down to the rivets. No damage to the flywheel. slipped like an auto box with low oil level. lol. Slipping started very suddenly, car got undriveable within 2 days.

The amount of friction material build up in the bell housing indicated the clutch was very old.

unforunatly means nothing mate... a brand new clutch that is worn out in 6 months will have the same amount of friction material built up in the bell housing. ive seen it lol

217,000km is tops though if it was factory...

i don't think that the wear on the clutch plate is the only factor in a slipping clutch.
fact is that after 160,000k's, (hell as soon as you start using it) the pressure plate becomes weak, and it will eventually start to slip even with a reasonably new clutch plate.
217000 is a top effort though. congrats.

mine really only slips in 3rd gear if you put your foot down a bit, so still got a little bit of life left...

Yes, it may not have been the original. Doesn't really matter though, its a hell of a job to do and seeing I'm not keeping the car beyond 20 years of age, I'm hoping this one will last the distance. I wouldn't want to do this job again on this car, but I wouldn't mind doing it on a 3rd gen or 380. Certainly is a bargaining point if I'm looking at another later model manual with close to 200,000 Km on it - check its records, then argue the price down if the clutch is old! lol And the timing belt, there's an all up discount of $2K lol

mine really only slips in 3rd gear if you put your foot down a bit, so still got a little bit of life left...


Just drive it until you need a tow truck! lol

Not really sure how people are getting over 200k's from a clutch, unless you have had the car since new dont assume is the original


Mal, my car has only had one previous owner, and the guy at Kings (Mitsubishi Ballarat) has the whole service history on computer, and I have the service book, and it has never had a clutch done in its 210,000 k's (but is on it's way out now).

The Mits service guy also told me that the previous owner molly-coddled the car (previous owner had new timing belt, gold plugs etc done only 3000k's ago)
And he mainly did country driving so the clutch wasn't used much.

I can imagine a car sitting in City traffic each day wearing out a clutch pretty quick though :eek2:

Fortunately 90% of my driving is open country roads too :happy: so This 230mm clutch from Mal should last me a whole bunch of years.