when on the Aus day cruise, i noticed a vibration in the wheel at speeds over 100Km/h, i jacked up the car today, and there appears to be some movment both horizontal and vertical. its not the rim itself, as i checked that the nuts are done up tight. ive heard of tie rods being worn? or is this a wheel bearing problem? im pretty sure they are still original, so Kms are aproching 300,000kms

I'm fairly sure my bearings are gone (300,500km), but I'd be getting a mech to check it out dude.

Was the tie rod ends on my TS.

dont know about vibration, but bearrings will make a knocking noise if theyre loose. it'll sound like the wheel is a little loose. also it might make like a rubbing sound which is hard to explain. if it's toast it'll be making knocking noises though...

tie rod ends would give more play in steering movement as in left right.
wheel bearings will give play in all directions.

ok, i cant hear any noise, but there is some steeringwheel play too,

tie rod ends would give more play in steering movement as in left right.
wheel bearings will give play in all directions.

Bearings would also have a whining type noise increasing in volume and pitch depending on speed.

tie rod ends would give more play in steering movement as in left right.
wheel bearings will give play in all directions.

:stoopid:

well i have play in all directions, but no noise, (that i can hear).
just sucks because i tried to take the wheel off today, and snapped my lock nut key, so i need to find a replacement now. :tired:

Magna wheel bearings can quite easily be loose but make no noise

Grab the wheel when jacked up (on stands of course) and see if when holding top and bottom if there is movement. Also check while you are there that the 2 bolts holding the strut on are tight, if they are is your wheel bearing

Like Mal Said.. Sounds like its wheel bearings time for you.. I did my fronts after about 20k with the 20s on..

was that to do with the 20's being on?
whats the price going these days for a bearing? i should be able to do it myself

Just did the wheel bearings on my KE Verada 125Km the bearings had movement but had zero noise.


Who says Richard Hammond is a driving God He's just a little Pommie git

How much did it set you back?

Unless you have a press you can not do them yourself

As for the 20's, the bearings will have more shock going through them due to the almost non existant tyre profile, the std tyres do buffer a lot of shock thus why many states did have and most likely still have laws in relation to wheel diam v's std

Would a manual press suffice? I know EGO has one and is just round the corner from Brent...

I did them myself the bearings were $95 each + $10 delivery. I did the first one at home with a hammer & chisel ,,,,, less said the better i started a thread on it previously. The 2nd side i pulled out & heated at work came out easily without any defority. Drove the new one's in with the old bearing & plenty of care.

hi make sure you check both wheels for bearing play as for cost if you take it some where i could set you back about $260 - $300
depending on where you go if you get movement when you grab the wheel form the sides then you might have tie rod ends that might need replacing or the tie rods them selves

well got some pricing, $101 dollars for each side, need both sides done as they both have wheel play in it.
done nearly 300,000kms so not bad ay

ok planing on attacking this tomorrow.
what is involved in changing the bearings, the haynes manual says "due to the difficulty in replacing bearings, it is suggested it be done professionaly"
yet it has a complete taredown of the motor? :nuts::wtf:

the workshop manual has some info on it. dads work has a press.
do i pull apart hub assembly, pry out the old bearing or use a press to push it out and push in the new one?
in a nut shell?

heat the knuckle and use the press to drive it out, then use said press to drive new one in.

No one seemed to notice the word "vibration" in the original post, wheel bearings hum or make a grinding sound when completely shot, getting them out is quite easy,
but my thoughts are CV joints, they cause vibrations, other then that the only other thing on a car that will cause a front vibration are wheels out of balance.

To remove bearing shells simply put the hub in a large vice and use a well sharpened chisel, failing that a H press, but they are cumbersome to use when pushing out
bearing shells, heating is another way to go if you don't have a big enough hammer to punch the bearings out with a chisel, remember to work your way around the shell,
don't just smack away at the same spot or it will never come out.

No one seemed to notice the word "vibration" in the original post, wheel bearings hum or make a grinding sound when completely shot, getting them out is quite easy,
but my thoughts are CV joints, they cause vibrations, other then that the only other thing on a car that will cause a front vibration are wheels out of balance.

To remove bearing shells simply put the hub in a large vice and use a well sharpened chisel, failing that a H press, but they are cumbersome to use when pushing out
bearing shells, heating is another way to go if you don't have a big enough hammer to punch the bearings out with a chisel, remember to work your way around the shell,
don't just smack away at the same spot or it will never come out.

wheels were balanced not long ago, the front rims are brand new.
the CV's arnt that old, less than a year.
there is play in the wheel, up and down, and also horizontally.
and they make sqeekings noises when going over speed humps, and when the wheel is moved to check for play.
just press in the new ones huh? no locktite? or anything?

If you need a press brent i have a 12T one..:)

thanks for the offer, i think the one at dads work will surfice.
going to fit my new brakes while im at it

Ok guys, varied opinions here but lets set some things straight here

For starts Rob, you do not need to grease sealed bearings. No pushing of greese into rollers on a sealed unit

Secondly, yes bearings are a well known cause of vibration on the front end of a Magna, this has been an issue I have seen many times

Kik, you are also 100% correct here about the shafts, I have been trying to tell people around here for years that this can and often will happen when you lower the car as the drive shaft is now running on a new angle thus the shaft is now having to "break itself in" so to speak when it is already worn and in a lot of cases near worn out

Ok first of all Kik I think u need to get used to fourm posts, I have no idea where this hostility has come from, I was mearly courious to how the bearings are held in, but oh that automaticaly makes me a dumb ass and know nothing about anything. I have pretty much worked on 99% of my car, and this Is one of the last areas that I havnt worked on so forgive me for not knowing every single detail about repairing all aspects of a car, I am not a mechanic nor brag to be one, I have learnt everything from
experience, I am a civil engineering student and my car is my side hobby. And I don't recall once stating that I knew better than u. My post was purely informative, and not smart ass in the least, I think u need to relax your ego a bit, as it was not an attack against you. Yes I am fully aware of what my modifications do to the car, I lowered it 5 years ago and replaced the cv's once, and recently becuase of my manual conversion needed different drive shafts. But the vibrations are most likely being caused by the bearings, they are nearly 300,000kms old and have large play in them. The wheels are brand new and recently balanced and the cv are fairly new as well, it would be silly to not rule out bearings. I think with a rude attitude like that your time here will be very short lived indeed, I have been here for a number of years and and consider myself to be a contributing member who is allways willing to help others, but obviously you know best, and know me soooooo well.
If you took my post In the wrong way then sorry, but text my be a bit hard to express convosation in the way is was intended to sound

Another way to double check for wheel bearing play is when the wheels off the ground check for movement in up and down and side ways then get a mate to stand hard on the breaks, if the movement goes away its a bearing, if not its something else, ill be doing a write up with photos to put in the DIY section in a few weeks when I do the Left Hand Front bearing in my TF wagon.

I fixed my wheel bearing by buying a $21 steering knuckle with a good bearing from the wreckers and fitting that :)

ha ha yeah that is one way, and if you find a car that has the lowest ks and looks stock, would get good life out of them. Oh to mal, i know the magna bearings are sealed, kik assumed for some reason i had said to slather grease all over, which i didnt and i was reffering to standard bearings in many front and 4wd's ie my old trooper, which had unsealed roller bearings. one thing i would like to know and would help the OP is due to been sealed what preload is required on the bearings?

well, changed both wheel bearings over the weekend, they are held in by a circlip, as well as being press fit.
and NO more squeaking sounds, and NO more vibration in the steering wheel, there is a little one at 110km/h but id put that down to a list of other things. but it has definatly reduced it by 90%, i think it may have even reduced the steerring play, just a little too
so very happy with the result, total cost: $110 kit per side (included new bearings, seals and split pins)