Just bought and registered a TF Magna sedan (only paid $1900 so pretty happy with price). The main problem i am having is the damn thing will barely budge if i have the Auto gearbox in 'Drive' mode. If i pull it down to low, and change the gears manually, its not "too" bad but still not good. I tried pulling out of a service station today, in drive, put the foot down to accelerate and nothing happened, no RPM, shuddering a bit, barely any movement for a good 10 seconds at least, THEN the it fired up and it took off. If i put the foot down VERY steadily and slowly, it kinda takes off but it shudders through every gear change. Sometimes i'll just be driving normally at 60km/hr+ and it will start to shake a bit like the gearbox is having a fit, then smoothen out again. Anything over 95km/hr seems to go smoothly.

Climbing up hills is just impossible, i start to accelerate and it decelerates very quickly, forcing me to pull it back into low gear real fast so traffic doesn't back up. Does it sound like a gearbox problem? How serious does it sound? Will a simple service to change the auto fluids and bearings and such fix it as i can get that for about $130? There is sometimes a lot of lag between gear changes, other times it seems to change gears back and forth.

Also thought i'd ask what is a Harmonic Balancer and does it affect the auto at all? I remember hearing something about it being part of the auto mechanism.

Kinda odd how such a dramatic problem can pass as roadworthy..... not complaining!! lol

sounds like possibly low on auto fluid and or torque converter problem....
the harmonic balancer is the large pulley on the bottom of engine that turns the accessories such as alt power steer ect. It is actually (rubber or fluid not sure on magnas) filled and helps to balance out the violent movement of the crank as it rotates.

Oh i see. Then it's not going to be a Harmonic Balancer problem. What about the Torque Converter, could that being stuff cause a problem?

if ure having trouble taking off and up hills ie under load yes its possible....

but check the fluid level first and try a trans oil flush before jumping to the conclusion its def a gearbox/torque converter problem.

If it's the torque converter, how much would i be looking at roughly to get it replaced?

Pull the dipstick out of the ATF tube and report back the colour of the fluid and the level. It should look like clear raspberry cordial. Do it soon as a box low on fluid or with degraded transmission oil will heat up and fail fairly rapidly.

Yeah the level of fluid itself looks good, the colour tho is amber coloured, like honey. Could the oil be degraded THAT much, or could someone have put in the wrong fluid? Could they have simply put in a honey-coloured transmission oil?

1. Only check ATF fluid on an even surface and only after car has warmed up.
2. Only use Mitsubishi specified SP3 ATF and nothing else. Aftermarket ones can be used as long as it meets SP3 and not SP2 etc.

I suggest you at least drain out whats in there (a proper flush is preferred) and then fill in with proper ATF.

when i rebuilt my box i chucked a reco torque converter (just for saftey) cost me $330 for the torque converter itself.
But u would have to add a few hours labor to that too to remove and install gearbox. IF thats the problem...

A new symptom has appeared which i hope doesn't mean too big of a deal (cant afford to get it serviced yet). If the car gets around the 4000-4500 RPM mark (which is common since the gearbox doesn't like changing gears), it makes a 'Tch' sound, a loud one, kinda like a human sneezing or spitting. Never heard of anything like that from a gearbox before....

Sounds like you have a major ENGINE misfire! Check the engine - plugs, leads etc - before you blame the gearbox!
Gearboxes don't sneeze, but a misfire/backfire from the engine can sound like one.

Let a mechanic drive the car!

Yeah i agree, you said you had no RPM when you tried to take off in drive, now if it was the auto slipping the engine would rev like mad. definitely check the bits max pointed out.

It definatly 'feels' like a gearbox problem. It shudders through most gear changes, and taking off in any gear now has a dramatic lag to it. The less i put my foot down, the smoother it seems to take off, but it drives off at such a crawl i've had all sorts of traffic backing up behind me. It also randomly shakes and shudders even without gear changes, it really does 'feel' like a gearbox problem, especially since it seems to drive a lot better in low gear if i change up manually through to Drive. Even tho its 'a lot better' it's still aweful of course. I would be surprised to see it misfiring since the engine in it is a 6G72 from a 2000 Magna i think, its definatly a newer engine than the car, QLD transport has to inspect it cause the engine number didn't match the VIN.

So perhaps when i get the gearbox serviced, i should also get an electronic tune-up to try to overcome any misfiring problems. It's doesn't make the sound all the time at all, only when i get a little frustrated and try to put the foot down. Even then, putting the foot down most of the time does nothing except make me LOSE power. There has been times driving at 70km an hour and it won't go much higher, so i put the foot down only to watch it drop to 60km/hr. Very annoying!

Sure, if you are absolutely convinced the gearbox is at fault, go ahead and change the transmission oil. After that, change the TCU and replace the gearbox. The fault will still be there.

It feels like a gearbox problem to you, but the gearbox is only responding to an engine problem.

"Shuddering" in the drive train is NOT a gearbox problem. If you take a perfectly good magna, and disconnect 2 spark plugs, you will get the symptoms you describe.

It's your money. You can spend a lot of it by searching in the wrong area.

Get a COMPETENT mechanic to look at your car. Sounds like a vacuum leak or badly fouled spark plugs to me, but what do I know?

I agree with MadMax, if the trans was low on fluid or the fluid has gone bad (honey coloured is bad) then the engine would just overpower the box & rev high frequently..
Save some heartache & cash & get it driven by someone who knows their stuff..
If they say the trans needs a flush, then get the trans flushed. If the trans is fine then you haven't wasted money on something that isn't stuffed!
You said your ATF was honey coloured which means it's old and burnt so a flush definitely wouldn't hurt!

Yeah ATF is definatly honey coloured. Yeah MadMax i agree, i just would have expected a serious lag in engine take-off and gear-change, including loss of power during acceleration, to come down to gearbox. Sometimes when i reverse out the driveway, i engage drive, go to accelerate, and it does free-rev and the gearbox won't engage till i pull it down to low-gear, causing it to then 'kinda' accelerate if i don't give it too much pedal, but thats only happened once or twice. Most of the time tho, it won't free-rev, it engages the gearbox and just doesn't move, no power, but the lag does subside and then the car takes off, revs out to 4-5k rpm before it wants to maybe think about changing gears again. I will definatly get the plugs and leads seen to by my mechanic and as the ATF is honey coloured, get that seen too as well. The only thing i don't like about Magnas, is the placement of the rear spark plugs under the intake making it a bigger job :(

ATF should be a redish/pinkish colour... being honey, i think you should have the box checked/have the fluids changed... its not the right colour

Yeah i got a quote from my mechanic for about $130. Thats all ATF fluid replaced, bearings and other such things checked and adjusted (sorry about the lingo, transmissions aren't really my thing) and also making sure all sensors are functioning correctly. I'll hit him up for a quote regarding replacement of plugs and leads, but overall it would probably work better to simply let him drive it and see for himself. Probably take me 8-10 weeks to save up the money i need to fix it so hopefully the car can hold it together until then.

If your mechanic's willing to take it for spin for nothing, could be worth doing that as an interim as plugs (depending which ones and if they're found to be problem) are a relatively cheap expense and if they are causing the problem, could be a quick and easy solution, saving you driving round frustrated all the time. Incidentally, does book say anything about when was last serviced?

Yeah i got a quote from my mechanic for about $130. Thats all ATF fluid replaced, bearings and other such things checked and adjusted (sorry about the lingo, transmissions aren't really my thing) and also making sure all sensors are functioning correctly. I'll hit him up for a quote regarding replacement of plugs and leads, but overall it would probably work better to simply let him drive it and see for himself. Probably take me 8-10 weeks to save up the money i need to fix it so hopefully the car can hold it together until then.

$130 can't be for a full transmission flush, as the fluid itself will cost $130, unless you're getting free labour? 8-10 weeks could potentially see the end of your gearbox unfortunately, and then you will be up for a lot more money for a second hand or reconditioned gearbox.

Nah not getting free labour. The $130 covers new transmission fluid, and making sure all bearings and sensors are ok. Standard price for my transmission service from a guy i've been going to for 5 years in Nambour. I'll check out the 3 front-plugs this arvo so at least i can rule them out.

not sure how he is going to check bearings in a sealed transmission without first removing it from the car and taking it apart. Sensors as well, unless he has a MUTT good luck

I hope you do not take this the wrong way bud but many have told you it sounds more like an engine issue, not a trans issue however you seem to have your mind set on the trans. The symptoms you list are not trans related to begin with

Also, for $130, is this just a dump and re fill or a full flush (approix 15l fluid used) If is a dump and refill save your money to look for the real problem

None so deaf as he who will not listen . . . .

He will be back complaining after he has had the "magic" $130 trans service from the mechanic who has X-ray vision to look at the bearings and sensors! lol

Nah not getting free labour. The $130 covers new transmission fluid, and making sure all bearings and sensors are ok. Standard price for my transmission service from a guy i've been going to for 5 years in Nambour. I'll check out the 3 front-plugs this arvo so at least i can rule them out.

Which mechanic in Nambour? I live in Nambour.

I have listened Mad Max, but i've also been told honey-coloured transmission fluid = bad. I was also quoted $130 for a auto-gearbox service so its probably a good idea anyway since the ATF fluid is obviously the wrong colour. I know it's more likely an engine problem from what you guys have said. Again today i got a bit frustrated, put the foot down, heard a tick sound, then 2 quickly after it, then as soon as those noises stopped, the car took off instantly. After taking out the plastic rods that connect to the top of the spark plug (at the end of the leads), i also found them to be very very greasy, not sure if thats also a not-good thing. The only reason why i've been convinced it was a gearbox problem is because the car revs fine. Put it in neutral and rev it out a few times and it's all good, as soon as the gearbox is engaged, i suffer from a massive lack of power and putting the foot down results in a 10 second delay before it takes off, and hills make me lose power too. I'll get the plugs and leads done too on the advice from you guys of course, i'm not totally ignorant.

Hey Disciple, i'm on the Sunshine Coast too (Mt Coolum), you should come drive it and tell me what you think lmao!. The mechanic i use in Nambour is B & T Automotive on National Park Road (behind the costume place).

Hey i just thought i would ressurect this thread as i have a new symptom. First of all, i'm not doubting what you said Mad Max, its just that in Neutral, i can free-rev it all day 5000rpm+ and no problems at all, hence why i said gearbox thats all. Secondly, Drive is no longer engaging...at all. If i go from Neutral to Drive, it stays in Neutral, if i go from "3" to Drive, it stays in "3" which isnt very good for anything over 80km/hr. Also that soft "tch" noise i described before has gotten louder, much louder, to the point it sounds like a whip-cracking or an exhaust backfiring, but its a metallic sound from under the hood. Only happens if im doing any speed, then try to put the foot down. The car shudders a bit, revs to about 3500 rpm, doesn't rev any higher, holds the rpm for about 4-5 seconds then i get this very loud metallic whip-cracking sound, then it changes gears and takes off :( I dont do it often of course, only did it once in the last couple of weeks, but im starting to worry about it all becoming a huge problem very soon. If the gearbox dies, i'll have to sell it to a wreckers or something lol.

Hey i just thought i would ressurect this thread as i have a new symptom. First of all, i'm not doubting what you said Mad Max, its just that in Neutral, i can free-rev it all day 5000rpm+ and no problems at all, hence why i said gearbox thats all. Secondly, Drive is no longer engaging...at all. If i go from Neutral to Drive, it stays in Neutral, if i go from "3" to Drive, it stays in "3" which isnt very good for anything over 80km/hr. Also that soft "tch" noise i described before has gotten louder, much louder, to the point it sounds like a whip-cracking or an exhaust backfiring, but its a metallic sound from under the hood. Only happens if im doing any speed, then try to put the foot down. The car shudders a bit, revs to about 3500 rpm, doesn't rev any higher, holds the rpm for about 4-5 seconds then i get this very loud metallic whip-cracking sound, then it changes gears and takes off :( I dont do it often of course, only did it once in the last couple of weeks, but im starting to worry about it all becoming a huge problem very soon. If the gearbox dies, i'll have to sell it to a wreckers or something lol.

Take it to Ron Hill Automatic in Maroochydore. They're on Tytherleigh (sp?) road, which is off Wises road, opposite WOW Sight and Sound.

Will do mate, i'm going into Maroochydore this afternoon so i will take it in and ask him some questions. Reputable bloke?

Will do mate, i'm going into Maroochydore this afternoon so i will take it in and ask him some questions. Reputable bloke?

Definitely. They're the best automatic transmission guys on the Coast.

Had similar problems on a KS several years ago.

Revved out very cleanly with no load, but didn't start too well.
However when under load it is a dog. Accelerating or getting up a hill at lower speeds was painfull. Found that a full bootfull would eventually get the car going.

Cruising fine.

Go look at the ignition and fuel injection system.

First do the spark plug leads, and seals to cam covers if you have any oil getting into the spark plug tubes.

When you do the leads also check and clean the distributor cap. Look at it in a good light. If there are any metallic looking traces, either outside or inside then you are up for a new cap, also check the distributor arm for tracking, gently clean any corrosion off the outer end as well.


If it is still misfiring or just not really nice and smooth then it will be injectors.
In tank cleaner is OK, however if you have lots of K's on your car then an off-car ultrasonic clean will work wonders.
When my KS was done there were a couple of injectors that were really blocked and were only flowing around 50% of specification.

After just drove like a new car, heaps of go.

Hope that this helps.

Gerry.

I will look into that Gerry thanks. Funnily enough, going to the auto-gearbox mechanic that Disciple recommended, he says that he had a magna 4 weeks ago with almost the same problem. It ended up being the chip that controls the gearbox was getting wet and was playing up. Dried it out and bam, drove like new. So i got a mechanic saying probable gearbox problem and telling me $95 will provide a level 1 diagnostic with the magna being hooked up to there computers to have a look, and at the same time, most people here saying misfiring due to the crack sound it makes and the loss of power under load. It made the sound again today without me driving it hard. It was so loud it scared the shit out of me, louder than a tire blow-out. Just sounds like an almighty metallic crack sound, like someone using a huge whip on the side of a tin shed. What i will do tomorrow is put in some good injector cleaner into the tank to rule that out when i fill up, then check the dizzy. Not that i've heard an engine misfire, but is it meant to be THAT loud? It started off like a light sneeze, now its worse, and as its gotten worse, Drive no longer engages in the gearbox at all, hence why i thought gearbox problem. Argh!!

Ok which one should i take care of first going by these symptoms? Should i get the gearbox diagnosed first due to Drive not working at all, or replace the leads and seals? Im broke so i need to know which one i should do first.

i can see how these symptoms would indicate either a few years ago i had an old bommodore and i had the same problem except for the ticking and cracking....

what had happened is the gearbox was stuck in above 3rd gear when in drive so it was only ever using 3rd and 4th

so basically i had to shift the car manually and never put it in drive..... aslong as i did this there was no problems at all
(except i basically had a clutchless manual with no 4th)

quite possibly with everything you have described you have a whole range of problems from the gearbox to the engine..... and the more you drive it it may not just be these things are getting worse they may actually be causing other things to go wrong.... i would suggest that if you cannot afford to get it properly checked and what needs fixing at a minimum fixed to stop driving it or it could end up on the back of a tow truck shortly.....

Not-driving the car isn't an option unfortunately. Im a single father of 2 kids, one has daycare 2 days a week and the other is in Grade 1. I just want to know which is probably more pressing, getting the gearbox looked at, or replacing the leads/plugs/seals and other associated bits. I know replacing the rear-plugs isnt cheap thanks to having to remove the intake.

hey dude you sure sound like your havin some fun and i can sure relate to the whole single dad thing i have 3 kids and im on my own too so im going to offer you something that may or may not help due to distance involved if you can get the car to me (brisbane south side logan) ill change the rear plugs for ya for free (yes i know what im doing and have done it before its not rocket science and doesnt take that long) the last set i done was 3mm over gaped because they were so warn down and i can look at the leads and what not but if you dont know whats been done and when your way better off replacing the leads no matter what i have bought new ones before and one turned out to be faulty but you would have never guessed lookin at it so when your talking second hand you can never tell way better off replacing in relation to the noise of a car miss firing i had a car that blew a hole through the airbox from a missfire it sounded like a shotgun so yeah a hell loud sound can come from that you have got some real good advice from the other guys a free reving engine in N dont mean jack my supercharged commo would free rev easy but under load it would miss and fart all they way up the road on anything over 20% throttle was dud plugs cant tell you 100% what the answer is to your issue but replacing a few things can sure narrow the seach and its best to start cheap and work your way up but you are right your gbox need the fluid done my missues one was honey colour and it died went from honey to black in 2 days and be sure they are doing a trans flush as has been said there is a big difference than a fluid change and should be represented in the price you pay o and for parts call this guy its super rare anyone beats his prices tell him dan sent ya 38416023 he runs a shop near me so if you want me to help you out you can get the parts when you come down if you want offers there you can call or text me on 0432712253 dont bother pm me i hardly get on these days o and for the few dollars it cost for the part the fuel filter is always a good idea to replace any way if i dont hear from ya good luck

I'll take you up on that offer thanks mate. I'll get a set of 6 plugs together and a fuel filter and bring it down sometime. I thought i'd post here NEW (ffs lol) sympton. It misfired loudly today while not under load, and now acceleration at low-speed is probably 3x louder and it sounds like a got a cannon, but without the deep tone of a cannon. That was after a HUGE bang under the hood. I thought i must have blown the exhaust manifold off or something but i had a look around and couldn't see anything detached from anything or any holes in anything, but obviously it wasn't a very thorough look.

yeah deffinatly some issues with the engine man give that numer i gave you a call hes really cheap for parts i think i have some maf cleaner laying around as well so i can give that a clean to and seriously consider new leads man there cheap insurance yo can do all this and it could be one dude lead when you rev it in N does it blow and smoke be it black or grey/blue at all ?

Not sure if it blows smoke or not in N at all, as im the one to do it. i just know it revs freely and sounds fine. I'll have it checked. Did you get the text message i sent you? Oh and i have the most accurate description of my new sound from the engine, the loud sound. It sounds like a dirt-bike, almost identical actually, but i can only hear it during acceleration from 2000 - 2500rpm

no i didnt get your text and yeah i would say its braking down in spark so leads or plug but im not 110% on that

I definitely sent the text to 0432712253 which is the number you gave me before, i just checked my outbox. Is that the right number?

hmmmm send me your number and ill text you

0428682332