i need to find the fix for this as going to start the wifes car for her is giving me the S*&Ts when im at work

at random more often than not now it wont start when it does it smells flooded when u do get it to start runs like its flooded for about 2 seconds then its fine

other things ive noticed when ive driven it the idel seems a lil high at times 1500 other times its perfect. ive had the check engine light happen to me 2 times same day. 1st time i did what we all would stop turn off the car check oil water trans fluid etc all fine start the car no check engine light, second time i was on the highway check engine light came on i flawed it for 10 seconds light went out, i was close to a mitsu dealer they said it was a temp code and it would have been cleared when i tured the engine off no use putting on there computer thing, they put it down to the o2 sensor picking up the difference in fuel as i just put e10 in it.

the check engine light was months ago now again never used e10 since seems to be fine, untill now its happening again more frequent, the good woman got the check engine light rang me to see what it was even tho she drove it all the way home (after going balistic) i said next time pull over turn it off and call me, well this just happened now, started the car the where on the way home and check engine she turned it off and the car wouldnt start, now im thinking the 2 are related even tho the car runs fine once its going

when i have had to go start it reaching up behind the dash fiddling with the ignition plug doesnt seem to do anything, lock and unlock with the remote doest seem to help, it just turns over no to mimimal tacho needle bounce, only other info i can think of that may help is we replaced the battery about 3 months ago with a good quality heavy duty one as the old one was dead.

id be really greatfull to have this resolved or some ideas as i can do without tension caused by the her magna :) my 2 are fine he he

I would say it sounds like the common problem of the plug on the rear of the ignition Barrel coming loose, based on the latest probs, same happened to me. heres how to read the codes without the use of a scan tool. first verify battery volts are above 11volts, the throttle is fully closed, the gearbox is in park or neutral, the accessory switches are all off and the engine is at normal operating temperature (car not running). locate the diagnostic test connector, its below the steering column, in the centre of the lower plastic cover. its trapezoid shaped, and you earth the upper left terminal (looking at the plug) to the car chassis. Now turn ignition to on, but dont start the engine. The check engine light will start showing a series of flashes, either long or short (think morse code lol). if there is more than one fault code, it will flash them one after the other, with a pause inbetween. if there are no codes, it will display a code zero (NINE short flashes), if ECU or circuit is faulty, the light will remain on or not light at all. heres a list of the codes and there fault, the long flashes stand for tens and short for ones eg, 22 (crank angle sensor) is 2 long, 2 short flashes:

1 =engine control unit
11 =Oxygen sensor
12 =airflow sensor
13=intake air temperature sensor
14=throttle position sensor
21=Engine coolant temperature sensor
22=crank angle sensor
23=top dead center sensor
24=vehicle speed sensor (reed switch)
25=Barometric pressure sensor
31=knock sensor
36=ignition timing adjustment signal
41=injector
44=ignition coil and power transistor
54=immobiliser system
61=communication with A/T ECzu (auto vehicles)
62=intake air control valve position sensor
64=alternator FR terminal system
0=Normal state (this flashes 9 shorts)

had code 21 registered, so i cleaned the spade connectors to the sensor and cleared the code, messed around the ith ignition plug that seems to have alot of play but moving it around to various locations had no effect on the car starting (post sensor connector clean), i will see if it continues to give the missus greif

Cheers Pete

When mine was playing up it brought up the code54, for the immobiliser. next time it happens, check it out.

im yet to have the call off the missus this week but i noticed its idle is high at times now going to take the kids to the beach may detour jollys on the way and replace those sensors anyways, its stalled on her 2x now but i think its either her driving or its still learing, my round the block test drives apart from fast idle seems fine plenty of go etc ill check for codes again tomorrow, its going to get a trans fluid change soon i think as well starting to look a bit average

yeah next time the light comes up do the code check and you will know whats playing up. If you have disconnected the battery for any reason lately, they can stall untill the ECU relearns all the parameters like idle, etc. If you do disconnect, after reconnecting let it idle for 10 to 15mins with all accessorys off and it will relearn idle mixs etc.

just a follow up: changed the temp sensor tuesday morning, havent had any starting issues since and the idle is back to normal as well no calls all week im happy

Sweet mate, good result!!

Should have called me bud, only saw this now

thought id let ya off the hook this time mate, still got that black out dash sitting here tho for the tf dont be surprised if ya get a call :) u know my wiring jobs n all he he, Dee is happy im happy

Cheers guys

Pete

My TE was doing this till I removed the coil aerial at the ignition switch and cleaned out the crap that had built up over time, and refitted. Cleaned the connector at the same time. Figured that immobiliser was acive and not reading key in the switch. No trouble since.