OK WELL ... the first thing you guys are going to say is "maybe my amp cant power both the subs" welll it does. its a 1050watt mono and runs around 580rms at 1 channel.

ok now that aside

i connect the second sub (identical to the first)(in a second box which is same size box as the other) and place it into the boot and the get ready to pump it and then BLAH, it pumped out half the amount that 1 sub did (i literally cried)

BUT THEN

as the song was playing and while both subs were plugged in i pulled one of the boxes out and then as is got half way out of the trunk the bass WENT CRAZY LIKE IT DID B4!!!!...so i went to put it back in and then all bass canceled out.

SOOOOOOOOOO can someone please give me a hand or and idea, cause im really confused!!!!

OK WELL ... the first thing you guys are going to say is "maybe my amp cant power both the subs" welll it does. its a 1050watt mono and runs around 580rms at 1 channel.

ok now that aside

i connect the second sub (identical to the first)(in a second box which is same size box as the other) and place it into the boot and the get ready to pump it and then BLAH, it pumped out half the amount that 1 sub did (i literally cried)

BUT THEN

as the song was playing and while both subs were plugged in i pulled one of the boxes out and then as is got half way out of the trunk the bass WENT CRAZY LIKE IT DID B4!!!!...so i went to put it back in and then all bass canceled out.

SOOOOOOOOOO can someone please give me a hand or and idea, cause im really confused!!!!

hmmm could be some loose wiring somewhere so when moved it connected and caused the bass, double check from sub terminals and amp terminals if there fine, mabye have a look inside the sub box. Could be from the terminal to the sub connecters?

Noise cancellation - easy.

Your subs are cancelling each other out because they are both trying to compress the air inside the boot, they are both holding each other back - it's like one person trying to open a door while another person is on the other side trying to close it - nothing happens unless one is stronger than the other.

Take one person away and the door slams, just like your bass.

Your best bet might be to give one sub to me :)

Seriously though, I can think of two things to try, but these are just guesses from an amateur:
One is to make the subs fire against different sections of air in the car, instead of together in the boot.
eg: have one sub facing the ski port and the other facing towards the back of the car, but against the back seat.
Or remove the rear (6x9?) speakers, and have one or both subs fire up through the parcel shelf (might need a very fat tube to direct the air though, so a bit difficult).

Two: Now this idea has a level of risk in it so I would advise finding out more information before trying it.
: wire one of the speakers to be out of phase (swap the wires on it). Then as one speaker is pushing out, the other will be pulling in.
The end result is that they would hopefully team up to provide more air movement.
However, because one is pushing and the other pulling, the speakers may have a direct impact on each other, causing greater extension.
If the cones & rubbers over extend, then something might break.


About your amp though - depending on how you wire it, you may actually have less power for your subs. If you know about driver/vc loads and series/parallel wiring, then you probably know all that and it can be a topic for a separate thread if needed.

Good luck!
Graham.

yer oggy thats some awsome help

i came to one solution and that was putting one sub box on the back seat (where it is now :P)

amp is wired fine to take both subs

wat about if i take back seat out hmmm:hmm:

It might be a bit hard to remove the back seat and you should really make sure it's not a structural component, but if you did, then the subs won't be impacting each other as much because their compressing the air in the entire car and not just the boot space.

What sort of box(es) are they in? Ported, sealed?

G.

id just stick with the one. if u have a sub on ur seat not bolted down cops will pick at it ive been defected for it

they are sealed ( i found that the one sub went harded sealed rather then ported, so i figured ill leave both sealed

i prefer the sound of sealed. more thumpy then a airy bass

I have dual subs in my car and they go fine...really bassy too! You cant legally remove your back seat, im pretty sure you have to get it engineered and re registered as a 2 seater?

hay magna sports 1999 you recon you could post up a pic of your layout plz (i cant find pics of your ride :S)

here mate, http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70525&highlight=cals+sports

ok ok i see ... so would a single box with the two subs in it make a diff?

Not sure mate, i think it depends on your subs ey... would be alot easier thats for sure! haha

Noise cancellation - easy.

Your subs are cancelling each other out because they are both trying to compress the air inside the boot, they are both holding each other back - it's like one person trying to open a door while another person is on the other side trying to close it - nothing happens unless one is stronger than the other.

/\
||
This is not noise cancelation




Two: Now this idea has a level of risk in it so I would advise finding out more information before trying it.
: wire one of the speakers to be out of phase (swap the wires on it). Then as one speaker is pushing out, the other will be pulling in.
The end result is that they would hopefully team up to provide more air movement.
However, because one is pushing and the other pulling, the speakers may have a direct impact on each other, causing greater extension.
If the cones & rubbers over extend, then something might break.


/\
||

Doing this will cause noise cancelation.

The idea of subs are to move as much air as possible to create pressure in the cabin, if you have one sub wired up opposite to the other then the air that one sub creates by extending it's cone will be cancelled by the other the other sub retracting it's cone.

Double check that both subs are wired up in the same fashion.

I did feel strange when I wrote/thought all of that. My bad for posting when on pain relief tablets! :)

Still, my 2nd idea may yet be the solution, as you say, ARS55, just has the wrong reasoning behind it.

Impedance is a likely factor. Whats the ohm rating of each sub, how have you wired them together and what impedance levels can the amp run at.

For example, if your amplifier outputs 580w RMS @ 2 ohm and 320w RMS @ 4 ohm, and you have one single 2ohm voice coil subwoofer wired up, the output to the subwoofer is 580w RMS (talking maximums of course) at a 2ohm load. However, if you have two of the same single 2ohm voice coil subwoofers hooked up in a series to the same amplifier, the amplifier is now running at a 4ohm load, thus providing only 320w RMS total to the pair of subwoofers (so for arguments sake say 160w rms a sub). Wired in parallel on the other hand, would be a 1ohm load which provided the amplifier supports it (there's less that do than don't), would be a higher output, maybe 800w rms. All made up figures, just to give you a general idea.

There's many different combinations depending on the amplifier, the subwoofers (both amount of coils and impedance levels of each coil) and the wiring setup. Your going to need to be more specific with your equipment and wiring for us to help, but I dare say impedance is your issue.

Impedance is a likely factor. Whats the ohm rating of each sub, how have you wired them together and what impedance levels can the amp run at.

For example, if your amplifier outputs 580w RMS @ 2 ohm and 320w RMS @ 4 ohm, and you have one single 2ohm voice coil subwoofer wired up, the output to the subwoofer is 580w RMS (talking maximums of course) at a 2ohm load. However, if you have two of the same single 2ohm voice coil subwoofers hooked up in a series to the same amplifier, the amplifier is now running at a 4ohm load, thus providing only 320w RMS total to the pair of subwoofers (so for arguments sake say 160w rms a sub). Wired in parallel on the other hand, would be a 1ohm load which provided the amplifier supports it (there's less that do than don't), would be a higher output, maybe 800w rms. All made up figures, just to give you a general idea.

There's many different combinations depending on the amplifier, the subwoofers (both amount of coils and impedance levels of each coil) and the wiring setup. Your going to need to be more specific with your equipment and wiring for us to help, but I dare say impedance is your issue.


Seeing as his bass comes back when he lifts one sub out of the boot area I would say this is not the case.

I'm still leaning towards incorrect polarity.

Seeing as his bass comes back when he lifts one sub out of the boot area I would say this is not the case.

I'm still leaning towards incorrect polarity.
Thats a fair point, and his basic description would suggest Parallel wiring so the impedance would be lower anyway. This is the result of trying to help while tired lol

That said if they're wired up exactly the same, both positives to the positive amp terminal, both negatives to the negative amp terminal, then polarity wouldn't be out either.

Thats a fair point, and his basic description would suggest Parallel wiring so the impedance would be lower anyway. This is the result of trying to help while tired lol

That said if they're wired up exactly the same, both positives to the positive amp terminal, both negatives to the negative amp terminal, then polarity wouldn't be out either.

Thats true, however he only said installed a new sub and the polarity is correct. who is to say his original sub is reversed?

Thats true, however he only said installed a new sub and the polarity is correct. who is to say his original sub is reversed?
His OP states the new sub is connected identically to the first, so I'm presuming they are connected the same. I'm sure he will confirm though.

Thats true, however he only said installed a new sub and the polarity is correct. who is to say his original sub is reversed?


His OP states the new sub is connected identically to the first, so I'm presuming they are connected the same. I'm sure he will confirm though.

Maybe he hooked it up wrong inside the box, then he hooked up the box terminals to the amp thinking it was the same as the other...

Heres some Help
http://slumz.boxden.com/f22/subwoofer-wiring-diagrams-833961/

I am going to also suggest checking polarity..
Just recently did a car that had the fronts and subs wired correctly but the 6x9's were done the wrong way leaving a BIG hole in the mid bass range...

ok guys soo today i went out side and inverted one of the subs wiring AND THE F***N THING WORKED ... so just to be on the safe side i went around to 3 different car audio installation shop, and with me telling them wat i did they told me to incert one of the subs connections ... so im guessing that is the way to go

......

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO now that is all sorted out and over i was crusing round to the different stores and then on the way home the sub cut out, SO GUESS WAT GUYS MY AMP IS NOW IN POWER PROTECT MODE. i read the manuel and it said it can accrue while running subs at 2ohms for long periods of time

now comes to which hope fully be the final question of all this S**T, LOL, if i put the power out of the amp and let is cool down will it reset its self OR will i have to send it away to get fixed (its got about 11months or warranty on it lol , if that covers it (Y))??????

yeah dude post a pic or something of how youve connected it. your posts are pretty confusing as to what your doing/have done/are going to do.

If its cutting out, how hot is the amp? could be thermo overload where it shuts down to prevent overheating. had this happen on my mates JBL hooked upto 1 sub. Ive never had it happen personally (good wrap for response amps here)

could also be resistance, again, casuing heat, and thus going into protection mode

well at this point im going to let if cool over night and then turn it on and hope fully it just oiver heated and nothing bad happened .... i might come up with some cooling divice, dean suggested computer 12v fans, but im thinking something like a interfooler :facejump::facejump:

nah 12v fans are perfect mate.

Now that would be funny - a front mount amplifier cooler !

Sounds like thermal protection - you shouldn't need to let it cool overnight, jut 5 minutes should see it cool enough to be switched back on for a check.
Although it's not a cool day today, so whatever you decide is fine.

here is a diagram of how it is connected right now
(pretty gud drawing might i add :P)
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww215/CUICDL/setup.jpg

So both subs are now in the correct polarity good stuff.

The over load problem could be solved by just turning down your amp a little bit so it's not drawing so many amps.

Yeah I would turn the gains down to no more then 3/4s of max...
Its bad Ju Ju to run amps at max gains... after all.. Gains are not a volume knob..

Yeah I would turn the gains down to no more then 3/4s of max...
Its bad Ju Ju to run amps at max gains... after all.. Gains are not a volume knob..

:'( but there gets more OMG FULLY SICK BASS out of it hahaha

but i think i might run the subs into a 8ohms rather then a 2ohms

:'( but there gets more OMG FULLY SICK BASS out of it hahaha

but i think i might run the subs into a 8ohms rather then a 2ohms

They will be getting almost no power if you do that... (Which will kill them quicker..)
What amp have you got? Is it a 2 channel? (Kinda hard to tell from your diagram, but im guessing now its a mono as its wired completely wrong for a 2channel)
-----------

I think you got it wired wrong anyway dude. They are DVC 2 ohm subs right? Well heres a pic of how it should be if they are...
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_2-ohm_mono.jpg

Pretty sure you have yours wired at .5ohms, which is why the amp goes into protect..

Based on your wiring diagram your running Dual 8ohm subs?

If your subs are dual 4ohm thats a 1ohm load on the amp, dual 2ohm would be 0.5ohm at the amp...unless my math skills with impedence is hopeless, someone want to confirm that?

If I'm right, and your amp doesn't support 1ohm output, that would be your reason for heat and power protect mode.

Edit: Its parallel or series btw, not serial, but what you've drawn up isn't consistant with series if thats what you meant.

# Power Series Class AB Monoblock Car Amplifier
# RMS Power Rating:

* 4 ohms: 290 watts x 1 chan.
* 2 ohms: 430 watts x 1 chan.

# Max power output: 1050 watts x 1 chan.
# MOSFET power supply
# Wired remote bass level control included
# LED power and protection indicators
# Tuned Bass EQ (0-12 dB bass boost at 45 Hz)

Based on your wiring diagram your running Dual 8ohm subs?

If your subs are dual 4ohm thats a 1ohm load on the amp, dual 2ohm would be 0.5ohm at the amp...unless my math skills with impedence is hopeless, someone want to confirm that?

If I'm right, and your amp doesn't support 1ohm output, that would be your reason for heat and power protect mode.

so if i run my subs at 8ohms does that mean its a 2 load ohm on the amp?

so if i run my subs at 8ohms does that mean its a 2 load ohm on the amp?
Tell me what the ohm rating of each coil is on the subs, and I'll tell you your wiring options, your making this confusing for everyone by not specifying the specifications of your subwoofers.

And if its a dual 4 ohm sub, http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg

(See few posts up for dual 2 ohm wiring)

But basically no matter what ohm level your subs are, you currently have the two subs wired up wrong for your amp...

Tell me what the ohm rating of each coil is on the subs, and I'll tell you your wiring options, your making this confusing for everyone by not specifying the specifications of your subwoofers.


hope this helps

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_23906_Jensen_Power_1050.aspx

hope this helps

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_23906_Jensen_Power_1050.aspx
Doesn't help at all. You've already told us about the amp, tell me about the actual speakers, the subwoofers!

At the moment its like me asking you to describe your transmission and you telling me about the engine lol

OHH SHIT HAHAHAHA I HAD BOTH OPEN AND COPYED THE LINK TO THE AMP LOL

sorry here it is http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8878_Kenwood+KFC-W3514DVC.html

OHH SHIT HAHAHAHA I HAD BOTH OPEN AND COPYED THE LINK TO THE AMP LOL

sorry here it is http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8878_Kenwood+KFC-W3514DVC.html
Ok, so your problem is now impedance.

This is how your wired up at the moment:
http://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/2_4ohm_dvc_1ohm.gif

This is the only way (and pretty much the only other way) you can wire the two subs together for a single amp:
http://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/2_4ohm_dvc_4ohm.gif

Your problem is, if you wire them for a 4ohm load so your amp supports the impedance of the subs, your getting a grand total of 290w rms, less than what 1 of these should be receiving.

Solution; go back to one sub, or get a better amp.

Lugo thanks for the massive help i think i might just either 1 give my sub to someone 2. get other amp 3.just use it for the fun of it hahaha

Wack two of them in a Large single enclosure and only provide power to one... Effectively turning one of your subs into an expensive passive radiator..

expensive passive radiator..

huh ???

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passive_radiator_(speaker)

Wiki will explain.. in general its using your existing sub to move the cone of the other sub, in effect moving twice the air mass with half the power...

Its a Bad Idea as it will place the suspension of your non powered sub to possible damage...