hey guys and girls

i'm looking at purchasing another Magna quite soon.

I'm looking at a wagon TJ or TL series.

Now i'd like to know what are the common problems with these series? Is there anything i should look for before buying?

Are there any issues with gearboxes, engine, cooling, electrical??? just anything i should look out for so i can negotiate.

any input will be greatly appreciated

Leaking heater core. Mostly TJ i believe, look under the passenger side carpet for any signs of coolant.

Apart from that, im not much help.

Interesting. That's a common problem with the Toyota Sera too (my wife's car)

I've noticed that a few TJ vehicles have stereo problems of the buttons & controls not working.
It's not hard to fix with an aftermarket unit, but the factory unit appears to be failing so factor that in to your vehcile test or potential repair costs if you need a radio/in car entertainment.

There's at least 3 reports of same/similar problem since July 09 so it could be an age thing that will affect many cars.
I thought it was heat related, but the problem happened today at lunch time and it's cool. Buttons on the radio didn't work except the CD Eject and power button at least that gave me some options.
10 minutes and 2 power cycles later I checked it and all buttons were fine.

Definitely check trans fluid if it's an Auto. Apparently they _can_ be overheated and this will turn the oil black instead of red. A second oil cooler in line with the factory (radiator) one is an easy fix - mine cost me $20 at the wreckers, I just have to install it. This may not be a common occurance which causes problems, but an oil cooler is frequently recommended on this forum.

Cheers!
Oggy.

Common problems:-

1) Rear window surround - paint peels off, and / or the rear window creaks in cooler weather.
If there is a surround that has a noticeable channel all the way round then it has been fixed.

2) Battery. If the battery drops a cell then a cold start will usually fail on the first attempt. Will fire and go on the second.
Get a new battery

3) Immobiliser circuit.
Can fail to recognise the key. The engine will crank over but will not start.
Lots of posts about this.

4) Front tyre outer edge wear. Fit a rear sway bar.

5) Pulls to left.
Get an increased castor bush fitted to the nearside front.

6) Drivers power window gets noisy then the cable fails.
Needs a new power regulator system. Later design look a lot better than the early 2003 one.

Hope that this helps.
Gerry

hey guys and girls

i'm looking at purchasing another Magna quite soon.

I'm looking at a wagon TJ or TL series.

Now i'd like to know what are the common problems with these series? Is there anything i should look for before buying?

Are there any issues with gearboxes, engine, cooling, electrical??? just anything i should look out for so i can negotiate.

any input will be greatly appreciated


I've had a TW (wagon)for 2 1/2 years now, 89000k and had the following .

ROOF RACKS - had mount covers replaced twice, tend to bubble(corrode) under protective finish
TIPTRONIC Selector - replaced twice due to faulty sensor switches
Cruise Control - vacumn pump replaced
Electric ariel- had motor and mast replaced
Passenger Airbag warped (replaced)
Steering Wheel - grip unbonded / replaced
Fender Indicators - replaced both sides twice, tend to crack internally and fill with water
Harmonic Balancer - separated / replaced
Brake Calipers front- both bottom guide pins seized.
Rear Shocks - shagged at 45 000k , replaced.
Cam covers - split at mounting points.
Gearbox - unresolved issue with shift flare and shock 2 -3 upshift on first change after vehicle shutdown for a while.
Rocker covers - starting to leak oil
Stabiliser bar link pin boots just starting to perish.
Remotes are fragile, battery holder tends to break at solder joints on the circuit board.

I would recommend changing/flushing auto box with mitsu genuine fluid straight up unless you can tell how fresh it is. Mitsu has the best price suprisingly for this fluid. A full service history is always handy.

In the past 35,000kms (147-182,000), I've had:
- Roof lining sagging
- Leaking power steering pump

I have a TL LS '04 model. It had 80K on it when I purchased, and 160K now. It had good service before I bought it, and service every 7500Km since. No problems at all - just tyres. I service every thing as per the book. My son has an '00 TJ Advance sedan with 130K on it, and it has relatively little problems as well. The drivers elec. window gear quit, and was replaced, and a problem with a fuel line coming out of the tank (Plastic joiner degraded). I think that regularly serviced late model Magnas that are looked after are very reliable cars. Cheap to buy S/H too!

I have a 04 TL LS bought at 49,000km now on 85,000km, only small things, the driver's side engine mount is dead trans fluid was black when i bought it and had to be changed and radio volume control was a bit iffy at times, i fixed that with a 7 inch touch screen though:)

Oh and catalytic converter and exhaust manifold shields started rattling so i fixed that with a new cat and pacemakers

thanks guys for your reply

i bought a TL station wagon.

It's nice to drive, alot nicer than my 96 TE. Engine has a different note and is more responsive etc..

i have noticed a couple of things on the TL. One of the windows doesn't fit back onto the rubber seal after you have opened the door. You need to wind down the window and go back up for the glass to pop back onto the seal. Is this a window regulator issue?

This isn't a issue. But due to the experiences i have had with the TE. How large of a transmission oil cooler should i install for the TL?

thanks guys for your reply

i bought a TL station wagon.

It's nice to drive, alot nicer than my 96 TE. Engine has a different note and is more responsive etc..

i have noticed a couple of things on the TL. One of the windows doesn't fit back onto the rubber seal after you have opened the door. You need to wind down the window and go back up for the glass to pop back onto the seal. Is this a window regulator issue?
This isn't a issue. But due to the experiences i have had with the TE. How large of a transmission oil cooler should i install for the TL?


I have the same problem on my TL 09/2004 AWD's drivers door window. It doesn't seal properly and makes wind noise unless you wind the window down after closing door and wind up again. How much towing do you do and how heavy is the load? Do you do a lot of city driving stuck in traffic? If either of these feature highly in your car usage fit a big aftermarket one - other wise the cheap option is to use a factory trans cooler off ( early TE- TH = WRONG) 2nd Gen auto models where it was a seperate high quality oil cooler. They are available from wreckers and attach it in series with your stock factory trans cooler built into the bottom of the water radiator in later TJ/TL and TW models. If you use a 2nd hand one make sure it is very clean inside or you will just fill your nice clean tranny oil with dirt and rubbish.

Another popular option is taking the external cooler from a 2nd Gen.

Another popular option is taking the external cooler from a 2nd Gen.

Your correct my bad - late night posts.

My comments re TE-TH oil coolers was wrong I was thinking of the 2nd gen ones you have correctly stated.

i'm going to look for a decent oil cooler. Looks like i may have to mount it on the air conditioning condenser.

I've also found a problem with the magna.

There's a terrible rattle on start up. It doesn't sound like bottom end bearings. As that sound is very unique. It's more like tappets. Does the 3.5 V6 have tappets or hydraulic lifters?

It's noisy as hell on start up, then about 10seconds later it's gone and gone for the rest of the day.

what else could it be?

I'm planning on flushing out the old engine oil by putting some kerosene (100ml) in the engine oil, let it idle for 5 minutes and dump the oil. The replace the filter and oil with a high detergent oil and drive it around for a day then dump that, then put in the oil i'm going to run it, and replace that filter too.

Hydraulic lifters, pretty common problem.

Hydraulic lifters, pretty common problem.

Yes there are a heap of threads in the Tech and 3rd gen forums but apparently the noise especially when very short lasting is often the idler pulleys as well. Madmagna says the dealers often just replace the belt and not the pulleys or the cam seals.

oh at the moment i'm looking at buying the new timing belt kit with hydraulic tensioner, seals and idler pulley. They are priced on ebay for about $300au. Not sure whether that's cheap or not.
As well as a water pump since it's there....

So everything under the timing case will be replaced. AS for the noisy lifters, i ended up taking off the sump cos the sump plug was impossible to get off. I think it was rattled on. So i took the sump off, just curious if there was something hiding... and there was sludge, only about 3mm thick... But not enough to block the oil pick up. I'm going to run the Liqui Moli engine detox on friday (basically a fuel tank after putting inthe new oil) and then use a fresh batch of oil... run that over the weekend (as i will be doing some freeway driving on the weekend) and then change it to some semi synthetic oil...

Now other issues with the Magna.

Transmission cooler. I'm looking at getting a PWR transmission cooler. There are 2 sizes i'm looking at 280 X 255 X 19 or 280 X 200 X 19. Which one would be best suited to the TL and how the hell do i get it to fit?? The bumper basically wraps itself around the whole front end.

[QUOTE
I have the same problem on my TL 09/2004 AWD's drivers door window. It doesn't seal properly and makes wind noise unless you wind the window down after closing door and wind up again. QUOTE]

I had the same problem on my TL Awd, but the fix is easy. What the problem on mine was, the glass was just not sliding easily on the rubber seal.
the fix is, grab a can of silicone spray, spray a copious amount onto a rag, (away from the car) and then rub the silcone on the rubber seal. let it dry and the the problem will probably be gone.
Now I treat all the rubbers about every 3 or 4 months. Never had the problem again. Had the car for 5 years now 170000Klms rolled over last w/end.

regards
bollie7

I've had a TW (wagon)for 2 1/2 years now, 89000k and had the following .

ROOF RACKS - had mount covers replaced twice, tend to bubble(corrode) under protective finish
TIPTRONIC Selector - replaced twice due to faulty sensor switches
Cruise Control - vacumn pump replaced
Electric ariel- had motor and mast replaced
Passenger Airbag warped (replaced)
Steering Wheel - grip unbonded / replaced
Fender Indicators - replaced both sides twice, tend to crack internally and fill with water
Harmonic Balancer - separated / replaced
Brake Calipers front- both bottom guide pins seized.
Rear Shocks - shagged at 45 000k , replaced.
Cam covers - split at mounting points.
Gearbox - unresolved issue with shift flare and shock 2 -3 upshift on first change after vehicle shutdown for a while.
Rocker covers - starting to leak oil
Stabiliser bar link pin boots just starting to perish.
Remotes are fragile, battery holder tends to break at solder joints on the circuit board.

I would recommend changing/flushing auto box with mitsu genuine fluid straight up unless you can tell how fresh it is. Mitsu has the best price suprisingly for this fluid. A full service history is always handy.

Geez, have you got a lemon or what? I've got an 04 TL Awd, bought new in 05, 170000 k on it now. Only problems I've had , apart from the factory fitted Awd clunk in the front end, has been one of the unis in the steering shaft got a bit sticky, replaced under warranty, and I dropped my keys from a bit of a height resulting in the remote batttery holder breaking off the PCB. I replaced the front discs and pads at around 160000 k but I don't class that as a problem but a normal wear item.
Maybe the first owners of yours gave it a hard life. Some people could kill any car, no matter what it was.

bollie7

I have the same problem on my TL 09/2004 AWD's drivers door window. It doesn't seal properly and makes wind noise unless you wind the window down after closing door and wind up again.

My exact problem i have with the passenger side rear door. It seems that if i close the door normally, the window pops out and wedges against the hard plastic lip above the glass. But even when i dislodge the wedge the glass sits very close to the seal, whether if its touching i don't know. But i do know that i do get some wind noise coming from it.

After reading the service manual on adjusting the window. It confuses me to know whether if i can adjust the window to come in towards the rubber.

any ideas ???

I've had a TW (wagon)for 2 1/2 years now, 89000k and had the following .

ROOF RACKS - had mount covers replaced twice, tend to bubble(corrode) under protective finish
TIPTRONIC Selector - replaced twice due to faulty sensor switches
Cruise Control - vacumn pump replaced
Electric ariel- had motor and mast replaced
Passenger Airbag warped (replaced)
Steering Wheel - grip unbonded / replaced
Fender Indicators - replaced both sides twice, tend to crack internally and fill with water
Harmonic Balancer - separated / replaced
Brake Calipers front- both bottom guide pins seized.
Rear Shocks - shagged at 45 000k , replaced.
Cam covers - split at mounting points.
Gearbox - unresolved issue with shift flare and shock 2 -3 upshift on first change after vehicle shutdown for a while.
Rocker covers - starting to leak oil
Stabiliser bar link pin boots just starting to perish.
Remotes are fragile, battery holder tends to break at solder joints on the circuit board.

I would recommend changing/flushing auto box with mitsu genuine fluid straight up unless you can tell how fresh it is. Mitsu has the best price suprisingly for this fluid. A full service history is always handy.




Geez, have you got a lemon or what? I've got an 04 TL Awd, bought new in 05, 170000 k on it now. Only problems I've had , apart from the factory fitted Awd clunk in the front end, has been one of the unis in the steering shaft got a bit sticky, replaced under warranty, and I dropped my keys from a bit of a height resulting in the remote batttery holder breaking off the PCB. I replaced the front discs and pads at around 160000 k but I don't class that as a problem but a normal wear item.
Maybe the first owners of yours gave it a hard life. Some people could kill any car, no matter what it was.

bollie7

Remember he has the 5yr warranty so it pays to get everything possible done before it expires

oh at the moment i'm looking at buying the new timing belt kit with hydraulic tensioner, seals and idler pulley. They are priced on ebay for about $300au. Not sure whether that's cheap or not.
As well as a water pump since it's there....

So everything under the timing case will be replaced. AS for the noisy lifters, i ended up taking off the sump cos the sump plug was impossible to get off. I think it was rattled on. So i took the sump off, just curious if there was something hiding... and there was sludge, only about 3mm thick... But not enough to block the oil pick up. I'm going to run the Liqui Moli engine detox on friday (basically a fuel tank after putting inthe new oil) and then use a fresh batch of oil... run that over the weekend (as i will be doing some freeway driving on the weekend) and then change it to some semi synthetic oil...

Now other issues with the Magna.

Transmission cooler. I'm looking at getting a PWR transmission cooler. There are 2 sizes i'm looking at 280 X 255 X 19 or 280 X 200 X 19. Which one would be best suited to the TL and how the hell do i get it to fit?? The bumper basically wraps itself around the whole front end.

CHECK details very carefully before buying and preferably identify the Diamante 6G74 24 valve SOHC models. They are a lot cheaper to source from the US even with postage here are a few suppliers:

I think these come with water pump, belt idlers and cam seals.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200312225637&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Best company:
97-04 3.5 L Mitsubishi Diamante Timing Belt Water Pump US $99.70 + freight US $57.60
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220468173708&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT


01-02 3.5 L Mitsubishi Montero US $90.20 + freight US $62.95 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360189456302&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT
Remark: This kit will "NOT" fit 01-04 "MONTERO SPORT" 3.5L SOHC 24V 6G74 engine with "195 teeth" timing belt

This Item Includes:

+ Timing Belt (201 teeth)
+ Tensioner Bearing (made in Japan)
+ Idler Bearing (made in Japan)
+ GMB Water Pump



Note:

If your car requires a hydraulic tensioner, this kit does not include the hydraulic tensioner. I have the hydraulic tensioner sold separately.
Please refer to the listing pictures for an accurate description of the parts included in the kit.



even better with same company for 6G72 2nd gens US $91.15 + freight US $57.60 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260464439835&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

i was looking at this
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DAYCO-TIMING-BELT-KIT-HYD-TENSIONER-MITSUBISHI-308/350252106329#ht_1628wt_939

I didn't realise that there was 2 different types of belts. How do you know which is the correct timing belt??

i was looking at this
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DAYCO-TIMING-BELT-KIT-HYD-TENSIONER-MITSUBISHI-308/350252106329#ht_1628wt_939

I didn't realise that there was 2 different types of belts. How do you know which is the correct timing belt??

The US ones are less than 2/3rds the price AND you get a water pump too.

There are 3 common belt sizes for the 6G Magna/Diamante AUS/US/JDM versions that appear on Australian listings and from your eBay listing it seems the same belt is used for the Magna /Diamante 6G74 SOHC and the 380 6G75. The other 2 are the 6G74 DOHC version in JDM Diamante and some Australian Pajeros and the 6G72 version of the 2nd gen Magna and early Pajero

Not sure how you guys had so many problems. Been through alot of Magans (after working in alot of them too).

Cant say any of the cars have had any big problems, just minor niggles considering the age.

My exact problem i have with the passenger side rear door. It seems that if i close the door normally, the window pops out and wedges against the hard plastic lip above the glass. But even when i dislodge the wedge the glass sits very close to the seal, whether if its touching i don't know. But i do know that i do get some wind noise coming from it.

After reading the service manual on adjusting the window. It confuses me to know whether if i can adjust the window to come in towards the rubber.

any ideas ???
Garry
My TL had the same problem on the front passenger side window not long after I got it. The Service manager at the local Mitsu Dealer did the bit with the silicon spray on a rag and the problem went away. In this instance he wiped the silicon on the window rubber and the hard plastic lip you mentioned. Silicon spray is also real good for the felt window guides if the window is a bit stiff. This applies to any car really. When you buy the silicon spray make sure you get one that has the plastic tube that can be fitted to the nozzle on the can. I recently treated my SIL's 08 Camry window runners as one glass was a bit hard to put up. Problem has gone away.
Silicon spray and Silastic - Both in the top ten of the best invention/developments of the 20th Century IMHO.

bollie7

ok guys thanks for the input.

I installed my transmission cooler to the TL. It was easy but annoying. Annoying cos i had to take off the entire front bar. I have pics once i get home. (i'm on holidays)

i installed a 280 X 200 X 19mm and a magneflow transmission filter. I also went to Enzed and bought some fittings to reduce the 3/8 barbs on the cooler to the 5/16 magna fittings.

I had them installed after i had a power flush.

I was being lazy and i didn't buy enough hose clamps. We all know how much 5/16 hose clamps are (around $2.00 each) anyway i needed 3. Ultratune charged me $8 ea. yes $24 for 3 hose clamp.


I also bought a timing belt kit from ebay. It was the cheapest with a branded name (dayco). Timing belt, idler pulley, seals, hydraulic tensioner and water pump.

now the water pump, through my search i've found 3 brand names. GMB, firepower and KSA. GMB is the brand repco sells and firepower and KSA are basically the same company. I've never heard of these 3 names before.
Repco sells the GMB for about $170. the other 2 are from ebay and are around $80.

I went for the cheaper brand name. Altogether the entire timing belt and water pump kit costed me $400. I went to a local spare parts shop and they quoted me over $550.



now my next question is. What is the radiator fluid does the TL use. The coolant looks blue in mine and definately not water based. It's more Glycol based as it's very oily to touch.

you can use anything off the shelf as long as you follow the correct proportions. All coolants have anti-corosive properties which is very important

Has anyone fitted an electric water pump & controller?
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_Water_Pumps-list.aspx

In terms of transmissions, one of the worst things you can do is keep your foot on the brake at lights etc for extended periods whilst in drive. Doing so the transmissions gets very hot which affects the oil. I'm not sure about the later gearboxes but the 4 speed auto's are designed with that in mind. That is, you can change it from drive to neutral and back to drive without pressing the botton on the lever.

If you know a really good garage that is reliable and trustworthy, many of them offer a full car check (including compression tests etc) on cars before you buy it. That way, if there are any issues that are detectable you'll know before you buy it! These tests are around $140 or so, at least thats what it is at a RAA approved Repco service centre I know of.

you can use anything off the shelf as long as you follow the correct proportions. All coolants have anti-corosive properties which is very important
Just to add to that, you really should flush the cooling system (with the heater set to hot, thermostat out) properly with clean water before filling with new coolant. Not all coolants are compatible with others and also they loose there effectiveness over time. Probably a good idea to fit a new thermostat while you have everything apart as well.
This might seem obvious to most of us here, but to people who maybe are not as aware of mechanical things it might not be.

bollie7

Just to add to that, you really should flush the cooling system (with the heater set to hot, thermostat out) properly with clean water before filling with new coolant. Not all coolants are compatible with others and also they loose there effectiveness over time. Probably a good idea to fit a new thermostat while you have everything apart as well.
This might seem obvious to most of us here, but to people who maybe are not as aware of mechanical things it might not be.

bollie7

yeah good idea... i usually do change the thermostat on my cars every year when summer comes around.

But i was more concerned about the coolant the Magna uses.

Usually i use that one can of the castrol radiator inhibitor. But i'm thinking of just using a decent coolant and not worry about it as the Magna is my cruise car. I already have a toy car which i flog the ass out of