So i get into the car this arvo go to shops,,,yadda yadda,then i get back in a select reverse...big clunk/thunk...mmm

driving,driving and then i get near to the top of a hill,and wtf..no drive....press pedeal...motor spins free...oh...oh

coast around corner...still no drive---shit....select reverse...okay ..have reverse.


backing up road to home..not impressed....stop and put into first...nothing...go back into reverse,and now the 1 light is lit up as well as R light...continue backing up road and risk swinging around corner and i do get drive again..manage to get home............

thoughts...................

sounds like your gear box has packed it in.
manual conversion time?

sounds like your gear box has packed it in.
manual conversion time?

Dear god.


So i get into the car this arvo go to shops,,,yadda yadda,then i get back in a select reverse...big clunk/thunk...mmm

driving,driving and then i get near to the top of a hill,and wtf..no drive....press pedeal...motor spins free...oh...oh

coast around corner...still no drive---shit....select reverse...okay ..have reverse.


backing up road to home..not impressed....stop and put into first...nothing...go back into reverse,and now the 1 light is lit up as well as R light...continue backing up road and risk swinging around corner and i do get drive again..manage to get home............

thoughts...................

Have you checked the transmission fluid integrity? Is there any fluid in it? I'd start there.

Yes plenty of oil,appears above the kink in the dip stick,,??

do you check it hot or cold?

motor on or off.....???

Yes plenty of oil,appears above the kink in the dip stick,,??

do you check it hot or cold?

motor on or off.....???

Needs to be warm, check it with the engine off and in park.

If the fluid seems ok then you could have suffered the dreaded wave spring failure.

Needs to be warm, check it with the engine off and in park.

If the fluid seems ok then you could have suffered the dreaded wave spring failure.

mmmm....okay...so do the symptoms i describe sound like this dreaded wave spring failure...i have heard of this,but what actually happens....and what is the results of this spring failure....

Typically, transmission replacement or rebuild - it tends to take everything with it.

mmmm....okay...so do the symptoms i describe sound like this dreaded wave spring failure...i have heard of this,but what actually happens....and what is the results of this spring failure....

I'm not sure exactly. If the transmission fluid is ok, I would probably still try a flush. Not that expensive.

Failing that it sounds like you're off to an automatic transmission specialist. Alternatively, you could try to source a second hand box, but you could suffer the same thing again. When they rebuild these Mitsubishi automatic transmissions, they use a modified wave spring so it won't happen again.

Typically, transmission replacement or rebuild - it tends to take everything with it.

mmmmmmmm.......always wanted a manual..............too bad they are so flaming scares here......

I'm not sure exactly. If the transmission fluid is ok, I would probably still try a flush. Not that expensive.

Failing that it sounds like you're off to an automatic transmission specialist. Alternatively, you could try to source a second hand box, but you could suffer the same thing again. When they rebuild these Mitsubishi automatic transmissions, they use a modified wave spring so it won't happen again.



and if thats the case,it would mean weighing up the merits of doing a manaul conversion cost wise....though deep down we all know what the answer to that would be...


" picks up phone....dials madmagna # "

and if thats the case,it would mean weighing up the merits of doing a manaul conversion cost wise....though deep down we all know what the answer to that would be...


" picks up phone....dials madmagna # "

It all depends on what you want. If you're going to keep the car and like the automatic, rebuild the transmission at a specialist shop. If you want to keep the car and feel like driving a manual, do the conversion. The last option would be to buy a cheap second hand automatic gearbox and have it installed, then sell the car and buy something else that you may want.

It all depends on what you want. If you're going to keep the car and like the automatic, not a question of liking the auto,car came with it rebuild the transmission at a specialist shop. this cost may be the same or more as a manaul conversion If you want to keep the car and feel like driving a manual, do the conversion. Probably going to be the best option The last option would be to buy a cheap second hand automatic gearbox and have it installed, then sell the car and buy something else that you may want. nah,have to much "invested ' in car to sell it,



mmm.time too consider my options.To early yet to be making unbiased and irrational decision,but the conversation and help,has,as always,been great,
thanks..

mmm.time too consider my options.To early yet to be making unbiased and irrational decision,but the conversation and help,has,as always,been great,
thanks..

Yeah, no probs. It's just a matter of weighing it up and doing what you think you will enjoy more. :beer:

is the neutral light flashing??? is it a 4 speed??? there is a wave spring (very thin and flimsy )in the low reverse clutch pack with time it breaks up.... and gets sucked into the filter (which is only foam) and with the pulsations of the trans pump it works its way through the foam and into the pump. and when that goes its goodby trans. The spring can also dig into the side of the trans housing and stuff it only being alloy and then its basicly source a new trans.

For a rough idea on prices of a 4spd tippy auto replacment, get in touch with Chrisco. He is going through the same as you at the moment. Manual conversion would probably be cheaper by about a grand.
From what ive read, and heard, to replace the 4spd auto costs about half as much as replacing/rebuilding a 5spd auto. I spoke to 3 people who had 5 spd's rebuilt and all cost around 6k. Thats the main reason i chose option 4 and traded the car before a terminal failure.

I was always told you check transmission fluid level with the car in N or P with the engine running, after cycling through all the gears. Gives you a true accurate reading.

I'd go to the wrecker and get a box from a car with as low km's on it as possible. Will cost $400-$500 depending on where you go. Make sure the torque converter is in good nick and slides easily on and off the shaft. Replace the transmission and give it a really good flush. Then fit a tranny cooler and flush the box every 12 months maximum.
Replacing the transmission will take all day, an engine crane, a mate to help and a few beers.

Yeah Maggie I agree with the above in saying your gearbox has karked it..... its a pity a decent car like the magna can suffer from issues like this... to be honest I'm quite scared with my trusty 4 speed tippy myself....

From what I've observed here - half decent manual conversions parts cost around the 1.2k mark (see a recent FS listing from Mal) plus installation, so it could be towards the 1.7-2k mark for a full manual conversion on a used (most likely) untouched gearbox from factory.. ....

Someone who posted in Chrisco's thread who had the same problem as Chrisco, said that they were quoted about 2.2-2.5k for a re-con gearbox or around 1.5k mark for a rebuild ... see here: http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63650&page=11

So it probably works out to be around 1k difference between manual and auto....probably cheapest option would be to actually get manual but you could be waiting weeks to get a decent gearbox or may have to settle for a wrecker one and godness knows what condition that one will be in as well... especially if you never see the car it was taken out of...

My personal adivse depends on what you really want, but I say the safest option is to search around and get a good price on rebuilding your current one or get a manual box (with all the necessary other bits) from a reputable place (maybe try some transmission places . rear ended wrecks with low k's etc). if you're not fussed about the whole auto v manual then I would probably recommend auto rebuild coz when you rebuild it you're kinda almost getting almost a new gearbox and you can treat it right and make sure it lasts - you have a guarantee and much less chance of failure if you use it from the beginning and treat it right... plus its also less hassle than having to spend hours sourcing the parts and then installing it all... that process could takes weeks even months if you can't find a decent gearbox.....worst part is "how do you know its a good gearbox?"....

Good luck with your choice maggie... I dread the day when my baby follows suit :(

Sorry to hear of the problems maggie3.5 :( Best of luck coming up with an economical and awesome solution.

Needs to be warm, check it with the engine off and in park.

If the fluid seems ok then you could have suffered the dreaded wave spring failure.

NO, engine at running temp, check WITH ENGINE RUNNING< IN N OR P

Now mate, as for the trans, this could be several things. i am curious you stil lhave reverse as normally you will lose all gears both forward and revers. With the 4sp Tippys these do nto suffer the same failures as the 5 speed, the most common things is the oil pump dies, there is a bearing inbetween the seal and the pump which lets go and then the rest is history. This will give you NO gears at all.

Other issue can be also diff failure, you dont need to have been trying burnouts either for this to happen

If you want to call me at some stage feel free to mate, we can then nut this out a little lol

My car takes its time going into reverse sometimes and a couple of weeks back it selected half way between N and D, should I be putting money aside for a new transmission?

My car takes its time going into reverse sometimes and a couple of weeks back it selected half way between N and D, should I be putting money aside for a new transmission?

Did you buy yours new? If so did it come with the 5/10 warranty? If so, then the engine and transmission have the 10 year warranty.

Did you buy yours new? If so did it come with the 5/10 warranty? If so, then the engine and transmission have the 10 year warranty.

Bought mine used so no I don't have the 10 year warranty :(

NO, engine at running temp, check WITH ENGINE RUNNING< IN N OR P

Now mate, as for the trans, this could be several things. i am curious you stil lhave reverse as normally you will lose all gears both forward and revers. With the 4sp Tippys these do nto suffer the same failures as the 5 speed, the most common things is the oil pump dies, there is a bearing inbetween the seal and the pump which lets go and then the rest is history. This will give you NO gears at all.

Other issue can be also diff failure, you dont need to have been trying burnouts either for this to happen

If you want to call me at some stage feel free to mate, we can then nut this out a little lol

NO, transmission oil is to be warmed, engine is non consequential.

NO, transmission oil is to be warmed, engine is non consequential.
Thats crap

Thats crap

Why is it crap when we're checking the transmission fluid?

With the engine hot(meaning the fluid expands) and with the engine running it is pumping through the system.
The transmission fluid isnt measured correctly, the way its designed to be measured. The fluid would run back into the trans sump pan. Giving an inacurate reading.
So yes you can but it wont be a true reading.

This is what I was taught when I did my first yr of an apptship with a transmission specialist.

With the engine hot(meaning the fluid expands) and with the engine running it is pumping through the system.
The transmission fluid isnt measured correctly, the way its designed to be measured. The fluid would run back into the trans sump pan. Giving an inacurate reading.
So yes you can but it wont be a true reading.

This is what I was taught when I did my first yr of an apptship with a transmission specialist.

Hmm. It's just that in the manual it mentions bringing the transmission fluid up to a specific temp (I think it's 55-60 c but I could be wrong, this is off the top of my head) but mentions nothing about engine (which is actually coolant temp) temp. Wouldn't the coolant temp take longer to reach operating temp than the transmission?

Just had a look in the downloadable Mits workshop manual, and it says to "Drive until the fluid temp reaches the operating temp 70-80c" Then cycle through all the gears and leave in N. This is required to ensure the fluid level check is acurate.

I'd believe the coolant would heat up quicker as its cycling through the engine itself. But I could be wrong.

Just had a look in the downloadable Mits workshop manual, and it says to "Drive until the fluid temp reaches the operating temp 70-80c" Then cycle through all the gears and leave in N. This is required to ensure the fluid level check is acurate.

I'd believe the coolant would heat up quicker as its cycling through the engine itself. But I could be wrong.

It doesn't mention anything about the car running or not does it?

It says to take it for a drive, and doesnt tell you to turn it off though.
And as I said, I was told by my boss a man with 30yrs experience and TAFE that you check it with the engine on... Thats enough for me :)

My dad told me the engine should be running with box in N to check auto fluid levels. Hes just an ol' truckie though.
Then that madmagna fella said the same. Dont know if he knows much about anything though, especially when it comes to cars.

as above the fluid fills the torque converter and other passages while running... when u switch it off u get a higher reading because all the fluid runs back down to the sump... i was told the same thing by the trans specialists at work (which is what i'm training to be) heat up trans oil and and cycle though the gears and then put it in neutral as to stop splashing giving u a false reading. checking the oil cold and engine not running should only be used as an initial level before start up.

http://www.atraonline.com.au/home.cfm?page=tips

1. Do your own transmission diagnosis. Back to Top.
Check your Transmission fluid level: (Many faults are caused by low fluid level) Refer to your car owners manual for specific instructions. Most transmissions are checked with the engine idling in park.
Mitsubishi & Hyundai front wheel drive: Engine idling, in neutral only.
Some Ford Falcon models are checked whilst in park within 10 seconds after the engine is switched off. Chrysler Torqueflite & Ford FMX: Engine idling, in neutral or park.

Anyhoo .....should have a sticky on this kind of stuff when we are all in some sort of consensus.

NO, transmission oil is to be warmed, engine is non consequential.

Mate, get your facts right before you spout crap on here please

Engine DOES have to be run, ANY service manual for most cars will tell you that, as does the book insude the bloody car

Even the Mitsubishi Hand Bood tells you

1. Check the fluid level after the vehicle has been driven enough to warm the transmission fluid
2.WITH THE ENGINE IDLING................

The reason is that with the engine off, the trans oil pump will not run and the fluid will drain back into the trans very fast. This will give a false reading.

Now, to save you reporting this post, I have done this for you and decided it is appropiate as I am sick of your comparing every car here to your evo and sick and tired of people giving information that will result in poss damage such as checking fluid levels in a trans with engines off and as a result starving trans of fluid such as the one I have sitting in bits in my workshop right now!!!!!



as above the fluid fills the torque converter and other passages while running... when u switch it off u get a higher reading because all the fluid runs back down to the sump... i was told the same thing by the trans specialists at work (which is what i'm training to be) heat up trans oil and and cycle though the gears and then put it in neutral as to stop splashing giving u a false reading. checking the oil cold and engine not running should only be used as an initial level before start up.
And thank you, this is only what I have been saying on these forums for 7 years, perhaps now others are stating the same some might actually take notice

Mate, get your facts right before you spout crap on here please

Engine DOES have to be run, ANY service manual for most cars will tell you that, as does the book insude the bloody car

Even the Mitsubishi Hand Bood tells you

1. Check the fluid level after the vehicle has been driven enough to warm the transmission fluid
2.WITH THE ENGINE IDLING................

The reason is that with the engine off, the trans oil pump will not run and the fluid will drain back into the trans very fast. This will give a false reading.

Now, to save you reporting this post, I have done this for you and decided it is appropiate as I am sick of your comparing every car here to your evo and sick and tired of people giving information that will result in poss damage such as checking fluid levels in a trans with engines off and as a result starving trans of fluid such as the one I have sitting in bits in my workshop right now!!!!!

I concur, I read the manual on the weekend looking for something and noticed to check the G/B fluid you must cycle the transmission whilst idling and up to temps and then take the measurement

Thanks for clearing that up mal.


.....I am sick of your comparing every car here to your evo


I dont believe there is anywhere here in this thread, or any others where disciple has actually put, "well, that may be how you do it, but in my evo....."


EDIT:
I guess we're all tired of people giving the wrong information. It does happen though when the interweb police allow any old warrior a keyboard and internet connection :doubt: Thats the beauty of the 'forum'. People can gather, give the information they know to be correct, and correct one another if they feel someone is a little misguided. If there is one person posting certain information, and 10 people posting otherwise, its up to the internet user to decide for themselves which way they want to do it. At the end of the day however, if a person is unsure of what they are doing, it is always best they pay a professional. ;)

Mate, get your facts right before you spout crap on here please

Engine DOES have to be run, ANY service manual for most cars will tell you that, as does the book insude the bloody car

Even the Mitsubishi Hand Bood tells you

1. Check the fluid level after the vehicle has been driven enough to warm the transmission fluid
2.WITH THE ENGINE IDLING................

The reason is that with the engine off, the trans oil pump will not run and the fluid will drain back into the trans very fast. This will give a false reading.

Now, to save you reporting this post, I have done this for you and decided it is appropiate as I am sick of your comparing every car here to your evo and sick and tired of people giving information that will result in poss damage such as checking fluid levels in a trans with engines off and as a result starving trans of fluid such as the one I have sitting in bits in my workshop right now!!!!!



And thank you, this is only what I have been saying on these forums for 7 years, perhaps now others are stating the same some might actually take notice

You are probably right, but that is not what the manual says.

1. Drive until fluid temperature reaches the operating temperature, 70-80 c.
2. Place vehicle on level floor.
3. Move selector lever sequentially to every position to fill
torque converter and hydraulic circuit with fluid, then place
lever in “N” Neutral position. This operation is necessary
to be sure that fluid level check is accurate.

I fail to see where it says anything about the engine idling. Then again you seem to be under the illusion I've compared a Magnas automatic transmission fluid to my Evo, so :nuts:.

You are probably right, but that is not what the manual says.

1. Drive until fluid temperature reaches the operating temperature, 70-80 c.
2. Place vehicle on level floor.
3. Move selector lever sequentially to every position to fill
torque converter and hydraulic circuit with fluid, then place
lever in “N” Neutral position. This operation is necessary
to be sure that fluid level check is accurate.

I fail to see where it says anything about the engine idling. Then again you seem to be under the illusion I've compared a Magnas automatic transmission fluid to my Evo, so :nuts:.

Did you not read what I stated above, this was taken DIRECTLY from the TH owners manual, is the same in the TE, TF and TJ ones I have here as well.

IT is common knowledge to mechanics that in MOST cars that the trans fluid is checked with engine running to allow fluid to be at pressure thus the reading to be accurate.

If you dont believe me, get yourself a magna hand book, I believe you still own a magna, it is in section 8.5

So not I MAY not be right, I AM right.....then agian, dont believe me a I know Magna's probably better than most here on these forums

Oh, and your reading = fail yet again, I did not state that you compare an auto to and evo one, you seen to compare your evo to magna's point blank

Now, back to the topic at hand

Maggie, make sure oyu remove the plug from your trans under the battery tray and the inhibitor switch, if the contacts are dirty this can also cause the intermittant want to select gear and other times when it will not. This may also cause a harsh reverse gear change as generally when these boxes are in limp mode the trans will shunt into reverse. There are 2 plugs to check, the grey and the black ones. I know in TJ's they can tend to get dirty and cause a similar issue, TH may have the same issue especially in the later ones. Mits seemed to change the seal design in the later models, another money saving cause I guess

Disciple, nowhere in the manual does it tell you to turn the engine off.
Point 3. tells you to move the gear selector through all the gears to FILL THE TORQUE CONVERTER AND HYDRAULIC SYSTEM. This implicitly implies the engine is running because you can't fill the torque converter without it spinning and the oil pump working.

Please lets move on from this engine running debate, it has been disucssed and proven that the engine needs to be running. I have deleted a few posts, lets now try and help Maggie??

gee..........what a storm in a tea cup.......nothing like lively debate to brighten a forum....

so...gearlever now feels like you are rowing through a bucket of wet concrete,hard,sluggish...eeewwww....motor/box clunks when reverse decides to select,and thunks/clunks into drive....lol not....:cry:

sometimes get an illuminated "1" light when in reverse.....and sometimes i get drive,and sometimes i dont...get an dim illuminated "N" light at times....sometimes it is strong,sometimes if flickers...i can sit there a go through the gears and all different scenarios light up......:confused:...one thing's for sure...dont want to risk driving it any where....sigh....

so if anyone has a "cheap "full manual conversion for sale ,i am all ears......

Here ya go maggie 3.5 http://www.pickles.com.au/damaged/vehicle/CP-10-99-Mitsubishi-Magna-TH-Sports-Sedan-5-Seats-4-Doors/itemid-1-2135978/lotid-502142570 5 speed manual stat write off goes to auction this Friday in Adelaide.

Cheers

gee..........what a storm in a tea cup.......nothing like lively debate to brighten a forum....

so...gearlever now feels like you are rowing through a bucket of wet concrete,hard,sluggish...eeewwww....motor/box clunks when reverse decides to select,and thunks/clunks into drive....lol not....:cry:

sometimes get an illuminated "1" light when in reverse.....and sometimes i get drive,and sometimes i dont...get an dim illuminated "N" light at times....sometimes it is strong,sometimes if flickers...i can sit there a go through the gears and all different scenarios light up......:confused:...one thing's for sure...dont want to risk driving it any where....sigh....

so if anyone has a "cheap "full manual conversion for sale ,i am all ears......

Mate, check your inhibitor switch, if you are getting mixed up lights it may be this that is the cause, also would explain why is intermittant and also feels like the shifter is in a bucket of poo

Mate, check your inhibitor switch, if you are getting mixed up lights it may be this that is the cause, also would explain why is intermittant and also feels like the shifter is in a bucket of poo

mmmmmmmmm...had a problem with this years ago when i washed the car and i think i "drowned ' the inhibitor switch,turns out it was full of water......didnt wash the car for ages after that episode...lol....

good call...easy thing to pull apart and check..and i take it this is the white cresent type thing on top of the box under the air filter assembly....

Needs to be warm, check it with the engine off and in park.

If the fluid seems ok then you could have suffered the dreaded wave spring failure.

The fluid is checking wit the gear box warm, and must be in NEUTRAL!

And i had similar problems with my gear box a few months ago! I went to a mechanic and spend around $450(Checking the car for faulty codes, replace a sensor, flush the gear box fluid) for nothing!!! After i flush the tranny, she just "die" same like yours, no drive, no reverse and engine idle normal (Like the car was in neutral) so i end up to replace the tranny! So another $1500+ a second hand tranny from e.bay $500 on top of the $450 spend on wind!
I hope to don't have same problems like mine! Good luck!:)