My 3.0L V6 auto TS wont do anything when you turn key to start. I have tryed bridging the starter relay then the starter winds but will not fire. The starter relay is NC and is operated by a switched earth. When the key is turned to on earth supplied to the starter relay and when the key is turned to start the earth should no longer be supplied to the relay allowing the starter to wind but the earth is not being cut. does anyone know what switches the earth for the starter relay or have a good wiring diagram for the TS, I have already brought a Max Elery's repair manual (what a piece of @#$%) and looked at a Gregory's TR manual not detailed enough either, dont want to buy a Haynes manual in case the wiring diagram is useless aswell.

Hi mate. Cant help you much unfortunately but this should. Complete workshop manual for the TR-TS magna, 44.6mb and 1300 pages long in PDF.
http://rapidshare.com/files/247587351/TR-TS-KR-KS_Workshop_Manual_1995.pdf

Thank me later :D

Mine does it every know and than, i found taking the key out and trying agian works

Mine does it every know and than, i found taking the key out and trying agian works

May be inhibitor switch? (Just throwing that out there)

;1213309']May be inhibitor switch? (Just throwing that out there)

Yeah i was thinking that, could just be a faulty relay to :)

As for shorting the starter you're going about it all wrong, it should be shorted from the main connection to the switch lead (remove switch lead first).
Inhibitor switch is my thoughts also.

Relay and inhibitor are fine think it mite be the ECU if I leave the ignition on for 30 mins it starts

Is it possible there are some connections under the bonnet that are corroded and need some electrical cleaner cause it sounds to me like something is not getting voltage/amperage straight away ? For me I eliminate all the visable stuff, mark it off then go for what I can't see - maybe not logical but I always hope it will be something easy

Hate to say this, but everything discussed before this post is irrelevant and not applicable! lol

"If I leave the ignition on for 30 minutes it starts" gives me the answer, as I've had this problem before. I bet your car has stickers on the side glass saying "immobiliser fitted", yes?

If so, do a search on this forum for "immobiliser" and you will find the problem and solution described in great detail.

By the way, you don't need to have the ignition on, just having the key in the ignition for 30 minutes is enough! Try that! A short term solution is to leave the key in the ignition, with it turned off, covered it with a towel so people can't see the key, and lock the car with a second key.


Also, check that when you take the key out the barrel makes a healthy clunk, if not, squirt some crc or wd40 down the barrel through the key hole, and work the key several times. If this frees it up the lock and immobiliser, she should be good to go.


By the way, no manual for the TS I've ever read covers the TS immobiliser, so save your money buying manuals! In fact one manual tells you to remove the ignition barrel to lubricate it. This is a no-no, as it trips the immobiliser - it thinks you are stealing the car - and it won't start after that. Is that what you did?

Let us know if this info sends you down the right track.

As for shorting the starter you're going about it all wrong, it should be shorted from the main connection to the switch lead (remove switch lead first).
Inhibitor switch is my thoughts also.

if you are bridging the starter via its own terminals,you are bypassing the inhibitor switch anyways,as this cuts power to the starter solenoid/motor,sound sliek immobiliser etc as others have said

Yep, even if you get it to crank by bridging the starter motor, it still won't fire if the immobiliser is playing silly buggers.