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rjh
10-03-2010, 07:45 PM
G'day everyone,
As you can see, I'm a new member. I've read a few threads here before but only just joined up. (Comprehensive joining process... I guess you must have had some serious problems with idiots creating multiple flaming accounts or something.)

Anyway, onto my question. I have had a 1999 TH Magna Exec. for over three years now and it has never let me down. I'd always used a fob to open the doors, until one day it stopped working. I found a description of the most common fault with the fobs and how to fix it, but I saw one cheap on eBay and picked it up for a touch over $30. While I was using the key to unlock the doors (until my fob arrived) I noticed the key didn't go in as smoothly as it could, but it was never a serious problem.

Recently my new(er) fob stopped working too. The first one that broke was beyond repair, but I fixed the newer one using this process (I'll post the link because the site is hard to find and I haven't seen any references to it on this forum yet.)
http://martybugs.net/magna/remote.cgi

Before I fixed the fob, I was using the key for about a week. It often took a bit of jiggling to get the key in; nothing forceful, but it was difficult every time. After a few days, even when I got the key in the driver's door, it wouldn't turn no matter what I did. I ended up having to unlock the car from the passenger's side, which I'd rarely used. The passenger's side lock was fine, but after a few days the same thing happened to it, although it happened much faster. It went from fine, to needing a jiggle to get it in, to not turning at all. Luckily it stopped working in the driveway (not at the shops) and I opened the boot, pushed down the rear centre seat and unlocked a back door with a timber stake. (As an aside, the boot has always needed that jiggle to get the key in, although it hasn't deteriorated over time. Neither the glovebox button nor the grey fob button work; it makes a click noise but doesn't open.) When both doors ceased to function with a key, I finally thought I'd better find that site again and get out my soldering iron.

So now, I've fixed the fob, but the doors still don't work with the key, so if something ever happens to it, I'm screwed. (Losing it is probably the only way; it has a brand new battery and a big dollop of solder on each join, so I doubt it's going to break again.) The key slides smoothly into the ignition so I don't think it's the key. It was rather wet recently when I had to use the key. I thought that might be a factor and tried some WD40 in the locks but to no avail.

Is this a common problem? Does anyone know the cause? I Googled a fair bit and searched this site, but haven't seen anything regarding this kind of problem with the door locks. The speed at which the passenger's door lock deteriorated surprised me, given the drawn-out death of the driver's lock. Is there something inside the lock that can get in the way of the key, which I've possibly broken by forcing the key in?

Apologies for the lengthy first post.

super_sheep
10-03-2010, 09:14 PM
This happened to me once... Right after my window was broken when some dropkick decided he wanted my mp3 player. Turned out to be some glass had fallen into the locking mech so it would pay to pull it out and have a look in there to see if there is anything interfering with it

MadMax
11-03-2010, 05:38 AM
Welcome to this here forum.

Cause: dirt builds up, tumblers get stiff, owner forces key in lock, tumblers get damaged or key gets twisted, problem gets worse.

Remove door locks, wash out with wd40, lubricate, test with key. If no better take to locksmith who will fine tune key or lock tumblers. Check linkage, door catches, lubricate, reassemble. Smile because everything works like new.

Poita
11-03-2010, 06:15 AM
Hi mate,

I don't have a clue what could be wrong with your locks, but I personally am not a fan of the method of fixing the remotes that you linked too. Its a bit of a hack IMO. I just fixed 2 for glenb83 and he had tried the same process on one of them. Since he had already chopped the edge of the battery holder off there wasn't much I could do about it. But there are neater and more permanent ways of fixing it if you have a decent soldering iron.

Cheers,
Pete

rjh
11-03-2010, 08:45 AM
Welcome to this here forum.

Cause: dirt builds up, tumblers get stiff, owner forces key in lock, tumblers get damaged or key gets twisted, problem gets worse.

Remove door locks, wash out with wd40, lubricate, test with key. If no better take to locksmith who will fine tune key or lock tumblers. Check linkage, door catches, lubricate, reassemble. Smile because everything works like new.

Thanks for the information Max. I'm not familiar with the process of removing the locks but I can follow instructions so I'll look it up and give it a try. Is it common for the damage to occur in a period of three or four days? I guess it's possible for some water/rust/dirt to get inside, especially given the weather, and for my key to force it into places it shouldn't go. I'm surprised this isn't a more common occurrence given how quickly it happened to me. I appreciate the reply mate.


Hi mate,

I don't have a clue what could be wrong with your locks, but I personally am not a fan of the method of fixing the remotes that you linked too. Its a bit of a hack IMO. I just fixed 2 for glenb83 and he had tried the same process on one of them. Since he had already chopped the edge of the battery holder off there wasn't much I could do about it. But there are neater and more permanent ways of fixing it if you have a decent soldering iron.

Cheers,
Pete

Fair enough Pete. It worked fine for me so I assumed it was a good fix. Why did chopping the piece of the battery holder off make it more difficult for you to fix? It may be unnecessary but I don't see how it could make it harder to fix, although I'm not familiar with how you fix them. It seems impossible to get a soldering iron in there without removing it unless you have one as thin as a small screwdriver (which I don't doubt exist.) Even then it would be hard work to do a neat job. Though I don't plan on having to fix any more fobs any time soon, I'd be interested to hear your methods.

Thanks for welcoming me and thanks for the replies.

MadMax
11-03-2010, 09:57 AM
If the key is damaged by one lock, it will give trouble in the others. Have a look at the key for damage.

I think you are over analysing the problem.

Just rip into it and fix it!

Poita
11-03-2010, 10:24 AM
Fair enough Pete. It worked fine for me so I assumed it was a good fix. Why did chopping the piece of the battery holder off make it more difficult for you to fix? It may be unnecessary but I don't see how it could make it harder to fix, although I'm not familiar with how you fix them. It seems impossible to get a soldering iron in there without removing it unless you have one as thin as a small screwdriver (which I don't doubt exist.) Even then it would be hard work to do a neat job. Though I don't plan on having to fix any more fobs any time soon, I'd be interested to hear your methods.

Thanks for welcoming me and thanks for the replies.

Hi mate,

Cutting the battery holder doesn't make it harder to fix, just dodgy to me. I am a perfectionist so chopping it and then cable tying the battery in just doesn't sit right.

I don't solder it from the top (as you say its impossible to get a decent sized soldering iron in there). I just use a decent size tip and solder it from the bottom. Takes a while for the copper plane to heat up but then you get a much nicer factory looking finish. It is what should have happened at the stage of original manufacture, but they didn't put enough heat in so the joint fails all the time.

rjh
11-03-2010, 02:20 PM
If the key is damaged by one lock, it will give trouble in the others. Have a look at the key for damage.

I think you are over analysing the problem.

Just rip into it and fix it!

Nah the key is fine, and it slides into the ignition like a finger in a ... glove. I'll rip into it and fix it soon, I was just wondering why it hadn't happened to a lot more people. Not to worry.


Hi mate,

Cutting the battery holder doesn't make it harder to fix, just dodgy to me. I am a perfectionist so chopping it and then cable tying the battery in just doesn't sit right.

I don't solder it from the top (as you say its impossible to get a decent sized soldering iron in there). I just use a decent size tip and solder it from the bottom. Takes a while for the copper plane to heat up but then you get a much nicer factory looking finish. It is what should have happened at the stage of original manufacture, but they didn't put enough heat in so the joint fails all the time.

I found I didn't need the cable tie, but I agree it's a bit of a butcher job now that I see how you do it. I didn't even think of soldering from the bottom because the hole doesn't go all the way through, but heating the copper up from the bottom is a good idea. Thanks for the info.

MadMax
11-03-2010, 07:40 PM
Sliding in and out easily doesn't mean much. If all the tumblers are jammed up against their springs and stuck there the key would go in real easy - just won't open the door.

It does happen to a lot of people. I have owned a number of 10+ year old Mitsus and they all had the same problem starting. It's such a common problem most people don't bother to get upset about it. Your car is 11 years old which is about right. I can strip the front door on my current car down and have the lock out in about 30 minutes. Pretty much a non event. First time always takes longer, so go slow and don't damage anything. Remember where each screw goes and you will be ok.
On a TS you need a philips head screwdriver, a piece of wire to pull the clip off the window winder, a 10mm socket on a "T" handle and a screwriver with a star pattern bit (torque screw ?)for the door catch itself. the handle comes off and the lock is removed from that. Reverse to assemble. Don't know what you would need for a 3rd gen though.

Poita
12-03-2010, 06:10 AM
I found I didn't need the cable tie, but I agree it's a bit of a butcher job now that I see how you do it. I didn't even think of soldering from the bottom because the hole doesn't go all the way through, but heating the copper up from the bottom is a good idea. Thanks for the info.

The hole does go all the way through :) The coin battery holder is a through hole device, not surface mount.