So a year after having a major electrical meltdown with my car it is presenting issues again.

The last few months it didn't always start first turn of the key, sometimes it took 2, other times it took 20, but in general it would always start after a few tries.

The other day it didn't start at all, had to jump start it down at the Gold Coast, drove back to Brisbane and the first set of lights it stalled as soon as I decelerated to idle. Continued this until I got home and parked it on a hill.

Jump in today, starts first go, no issues.


Now for background, last year it got

* Brand new heavy duty century battery

* Brand new starter motor

* Second hand alternator, looked to be in great condition

* Second hand computer was bought but as far as I remember never put in.

As far as I know all of the above were taken out and replaced, computer was unplugged, the gold regulator thing next to it was unplugged, something was done with the aftermarket immobaliser, not sure what.


Now I'm not great with cars but i'm going to check the computer and the gold relay regulator thing as I have a feeling they may be somehow causing it if they werent put back in properly. I may be way off which could make it very helpful if someone has any idea could help me out.

The gold relay regulator thing is your MPFI Relay, WHICH I'm sure controls your fuel pump and fuel injection circuits.

Ok so your problems are does not turn first go off the key (just cranks?)

and you needed to jump start it

Do you know if it is charging at all?

Sounds like there could be a loose connection somewhere. when you say it doesnt start, does the motor crank at all and just not fire? or does the starter motor not turn the motor?

Hey Tuffy, I mean when it doesnt start either nothing happens or theres a click, either way nothing is happening with the starter.

On another note it seems all is good again, its starting first time every time.

I have a feeling either the battery is tempermental or something to do with the computer is loose.

Its just odd that it both wouldn't start and then wouldn't idle. But then without moving or anything being done to it started perfect first go.

when it does it again try jumping the starter motor b+ to start terminal as it could be a volt drop most likely thru the ignition switch

Thats a possibility but would that also cause it to stall when idling? Also what would cause this? Dodgy battery?

I say bad ignition contact points. source a new switch that goes behind the ignition key.

Sounds like starter motor. See if it is covered in oil. Oil can get into the solenoid and carbonise over time. This produces either a click, or normal starting, depending on the metal bar in the solenoid making contact or not.

Thanks guys, I'm not sure if its the ignition, as whatever it is caused it too stall when idling, I dont think that was just a random thing, had to be connected. Same with the starter, its not even a year old, Ive checked it out and it looks still brand new, also kicks over absolutely perfectly when it does.

Is there any chance it could be just the battery is faulty and sometimes doesnt have enough juice to fire it up first time? Its just over a year old but who knows it could be just a dodgy battery?

On a side note its going 100% fine at the moment, I will check out the ignition and starter motor again though to make sure theyre ok.

have u checked terminals??? make sure they are clean first.... the clicking sound is the solenoid kicking out but the starter not turning points to low v supply to the starter as in flat battery. so as above check to make sure the alt is actually charging if it is then.....



do 2nd gens have a stock imobiliser??? (spelling)
u said it had an after market imobiliser that would be one of my next major culprates....

Battery terminals are sweet, cleaned them up, still having a bit of trouble with stalling at idle but I have a feeling thats because the battery was disconnected and is still resetting everything, its starting better now. Still a bit iffy on the battery, will go get it checked and replaced under warranty if need be. As far as I can tell the alt is charging.

Has nothing to do with ecu if will not even crank

These have issues with the ignition switches, as in the one in behind the key, the contacts wear and thus you get the intermittant no crank issue. Also the inhibitor switch is getting old and can cause same

The stalling will be a separate issue

Thanks Madmagna, Now i've thought about it I reckon the stalling is just because I disconnected the battery, its done that before and settles down in time. Where abouts is the inhibitor switch? is it much of a job to replace? Same deal for the ignition switch, is there much too it?

Some batteries have a habit of going open circuit randomly when a connector lets go internally. You can check by putting a multimeter across the battery and watch it as you try to start it, several times. If you strike the no start condition and the multimeter drops to zero, you know the battery is stuffed. A good battery should give you about 9 volts while cranking. You can check the running voltage of the alternator at the same time, it should peak at 14.4 volts.

Inhibitor switch is on the gearbox, you need to remove the airbox.
Ignition switch is on the steering column, you need to remove upper and lower plastic steering column covers. The switch and the key part are separate, held together by a small philips head screw.

Awesome, cheers guys, very helpful.

Don't do anything with the ignition switch untill you tell us whether you have a factory immobiliser on the car though.

Its aftermarket immobiliser, I dont know much about it.