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Greetings All.

When you REAALLY hammer your car, and the tacho goes into the red, what sort of engine parts will this damage? Anyways of preventing this (besides just not revving it so hard), like product wise that will let you go further into the redline without damaging the engine?

Cheers,
--Tonba
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cams? getting diff cams can let u rev to a higher rpm. or get a rotary from a mazda RX7 lol. rev to something rediculous... or a roadbike. 13,000rpm on some ive heard

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Greetings All.

Ok, here is an example, if i were to go out and buy a 6g72 MIVEC to replace my current motor, and i was unsure how hard the previous owner had been driving, what parts...should be replace, just in case?

Cheers,
--Tonba
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I'd replace them on a as-required basis... if you take the engine to a mechanic to rip apart and inspect and he tells you the thing is fine after raking up $500 in labour costs - who's the fool?

If however you buy it, drive it and then eventually the pistons loose compression, then at least the guesswork is gone, and you only pay for whats required.

my understanding of over-revving your engine is mainly in your exhaust, intake and cam design.

intake - cant get enough air at very high rpm
=>
cams with inifecient design, cant cope with the openig and closing of the valves in sync
=>
exhaust - too many restrictions may cause excessive backpressure

correct as nessary. but thats what i know in a nutshell.

cams? getting diff cams can let u rev to a higher rpm. or get a rotary from a mazda RX7 lol. rev to something rediculous... or a roadbike. 13,000rpm on some ive heard
Used to take my R6 out to 15500 before changing gear and that was not in redline. Wind it out to 16000 in 5th and you are around 250kmh. Must have a speed limiter in 6th cause it would never push over 240kmh ie 12000 revs.

A mates Focus doesn't have a redline. It revs to something like 7000 and hits a rev limiter. Smooth german engineering.

If you are replacing an engine, its a good idea to replace your font and rear crank seals, and camshaft seals. This is just a precautionary measure as it is a bit of a pain in the bum to spend all the hours putting a motor in only to find that the rear crank seal (the one at the gearbox end) needs replacing. I have never done a rear crank seal in my TE, but it has a very slow leak and will need doing soon. Maybe someone that has done it can tell you whether it is a pain in the butt or if its an easyish job for the knowledgeable home mechanic.

Chris

If you are replacing an engine, its a good idea to replace your font and rear crank seals, and camshaft seals. This is just a precautionary measure as it is a bit of a pain in the bum to spend all the hours putting a motor in only to find that the rear crank seal (the one at the gearbox end) needs replacing. I have never done a rear crank seal in my TE, but it has a very slow leak and will need doing soon. Maybe someone that has done it can tell you whether it is a pain in the butt or if its an easyish job for the knowledgeable home mechanic.

Chris

:mad: My engine is A1 condition now with a near bullet proof build up.... surely enough the friggen rear main is leaking tho :mad: only after it was replaced tho :mad:

Must have a speed limiter in 6th cause it would never push over 240kmh ie 12000 revs.
I would say it has reached terminal velocity using that gear ratio (i.e the engine just can't pull it faster)

what sort of engine parts will this damage?

Some things that may happen:
The pistons can crack,
The rings may crack,
The conrod may stretch,
The conrod bolts could break,
The little end bearing or big end may seize if lubrication at those revs is a little light on,
The piston may hit a valve if your valves are closin to slow (or bouncing) ...

Things you can do:
Stronger pistons,
Better piston rings,
Better valve springs,
Stronger conrod bolts,
Stronger conrods,
Improved lubrication.

Of course the higher the revs the higher the wear and tear ... you will need to replace pistons, rings and bearings more frequently.