Hi guys,

I have been visiting this forum some time as guest but can't find anything on this particular query. My dad has been busy replacing the water pump (which is a huge hassle because so much has to be removed/moved to get to it). We bought a non generic from Autobarn. Visibly it's completely identical. When we attached the new seals and water pump itself, the screws in the bottom few holes are not gripping far in and we don't know how tight these need to be.

We don't have the original manual to refer to. Does any body know the tension for screws on a water pump? OR where I could find out? Would be hugely appreciated. And any other tips regarding replacement of water pump that might be commonly missed.

Regards,

Matt

you say "4C' in your title, i presume you mean 4 cylinder? the torque settings for the water pump on the 4 cylinder are: water pump securing bolts = 14Nm, water pump and Bracket securing bolts= 24Nm. settings for 6 cylinder are : water pump bolts: 8mm head=24Nm, 10mm=41Nm

Hi Rob,

Thanks for those details they might still help. Unfortunately my dad was unsatisfied with the fact that the bolt was turning but not tightening to a 'stop'. The screw has literally broken off whilst starting to remove the screw. It's locked in hard and due to the already awkward position the water pump is in (horrible spot to put a water pump) we've had to buy a cable that allows our electric drill to drill from an angle. We're planning to try and remove the snapped off screw that way by drilling a progressively larger hole into it.

My question now, can the water pump be held tight enough by having one less screw held in. The water pump has 5 screw holes in total. 4 along the top most parts, and 1 main one (the one that's broken) at the bottom - which means it's probably critical in securing the water pump tightly enough to seal it properly.

Hope this makes sense, hasty replies are highly appreciated as dad will be back out tomorrow night.

And yea it's a 4 Cylender 2.4.

The broken bolt will need to be completely removed, provided you do not damage the thread too much you will be able to get it out and use the thead, if not you will need to drill oversize and use a helicoil to bring back to normal size again

You can not run with one bolt less, all are needed to ensure no leaks etc etc

Hi guys,

This thread is probably not going to be viewed by anyone anymore, but someone might view this later and find these tips useful. Note that I don't know the service history of my car before 130,000 so a previous 'dodgy' service may have been part of the cause of our troubles.

First of all, to access the waterpump's screws, we had to uncover the timing belt (as well as all the little easy things like belt, covers etc), and unscrew the left engine support bracket (which we then jacked up with a heavy duty jack high enough for access to the screws). Removing the waterpump was not a problem at this point. The problem started when reattaching the new one. The tension is 14nM, but the bottom screw snapped when tightening it with a tensioner. The bolts in this engine (maybe just mine) are terrible, they're weak and break easily. In the end, a total of 3 screws snapped/broke. This created hours of work each to first remove the stuck end of the screw, then create a new thread. However we finally bought new bolts and used those instead and got the waterpump on, using sealing cream to ensure a proper seal. Up to this point, easily 20 hours labour (we don't have a fully equipped garage at hand). Now we had to put everything back together, most of it was fine except the engine bracket. It was nearly impossible to align the hole's of the brackets together. That took us 2 hours alone, using spanners and bits of wood to cram/manipulate the engine by mm's at a time to align the hole.

Just wondering if anyone else ran into these problems? Or what we could/should have done to avoid it.

The 4 cylinder TE is a rare beast on this forum and not many people know or post about it.

My comment is though, that if 3 bolts broke on reassembly, they must have been very weak, or possibly your "tensioner" - I assume torque wrench - is horribly inaccurate at that range. 14 Nm isn't much, at all, I've only come across 2 bolts ever on a Mitsu, an oil pump bolt and a big end bearing bolt, that stretched when torqued up. May have been a bad batch of bolts on your car, but I suspect your "tensioner" is to blame - you might want to check that against another one!

That's a valid point. I should have it double checked. On a seperate note my belt makes a terrible noise because apparently one of the pulleys is 'bad' according to an assessment made by a Kmart mechanic about 9 months ago. It always squeeks (not the aircon kinda squeel that's extra loud and constant) but a squeek who's frequency depends on how much accelleration is made. When putting it into nuetral and upping the rev's it doesn't cause the noise. I really don't know much about engines. Have already tried replacing belt, having it super tight or loose, and belt spray. None of which work. The noise subsides almost completely when the engine's been driving for about 5-10 minutes.

Anyway, I can understand why a 4 Cyl TE is rare. I would so very much have prefferred the 6C version as the fuel economy difference is neglible but the power loss is significant. I want power =) - time for a new car. Don't get me wrong.. I like magna's and mitsubishi. Just not the 4C version. I'm becoming fascinated by cars in general and would love to have a car I can 'improve'. It just wouldn't be worth improving my current car.

Thanks again.

The 4 cylinder actually makes more kilowatts than the 2.6 it replaces, but it has poorer low down torque, so it needs to be revved, which hurts fuel consumption.
The squeek you get is probably a dry bearing in the pulley. Take the pulley out and see if the bearing is replaceable. If you take the belt off and turn it by hand it will feel rough, sny sideways movement means it needs replacing. If the bearing isn't removable, try to get some grease or oil into it. Ask your dealer (or check eBay) for a replacement.