Hi All,

As I will be installing my new intake system on my magna I thought I would write up a how to for everyones benifit.

These kits are available off the RPW website for $340.90. This is a cost effective how to do it for half of the cost.

I will be updating this thread over the weekend as I install and take pictures.

Difficulty Rating out of 10: 3 - 5 out of 10 pending on skills and knowledge but was pretty easy install.
Time Taken: Around 2 hours
Tools Required: Grinder or good metal hack saw, screw drivers, sockets, just your usual tools. Will also need a soldering iron and all that for the MAF extension
Parts Required:

You will need the following items to complete your new CAI system

3 x 3" Silicone 90 deg Bend
1 x 3" by 4" Straight Reducer

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05874.jpg

I went direct to a silicone hose manufacturer for parts as you can pay around $65.00 per silicone bend through Super Cheap. Over here in WA we use a company called Turbo Tech. www.turbotech.com.au for online shopping.
______________
$120.00 Approx


MAF Sensor extension wire will be required and depending on how many wires will depend on what you buy
My sensor only runs 5 wires, but most later model magnas will run 7 wire. This is available at Supercheap and it is called "Trailer Wire". As I know people, this didnt cost me a cent.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05876.jpg
______________
$15.00 Approx


3" Stainless Steel Pipe. I picked this up off another member who recently built a CAI kit. I will update cost on this as days come, but I would think doing a group buy in a longer piece and spliting the cost will be the cheapest option. The picture attached I have enough 3" pipe to complete 2 kits.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05877.jpg
______________
$20.00 Approx (2nd hand cost)


8 x SS Hose Clamps

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05875.jpg

Finally you will need hose clamps to suit 3". I picked up 8 of them for my kit. EDIT: You will need 1 larger one to suit the 4" to seal over the OVAL MAF sensor.
______________
$16.00


TOTAL COST IN PARTS:

$171.00

Savings: $170.00 Price may vary pending what type of intake you already have. I have a POD with adapter already on my car.

Step 1: Remove standard air box and AFM/MAF sensor (always a good chance to clean while its out)

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05878.jpg

Step 2: Trial fit 90 Deg bend to work out length of SS Pipe

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05879.jpg

Step 3: Cut/Drill hole in 1st Silicone Bend to replace breather nipple. This can be removed from your old intake by pushing it out with a phillips head screw driver from the inside out.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05880.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05881.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05882.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05883.jpg

Step 4: Make up adapter to suit your MAF sensor and final bend. Do this before installing all your pipe. You will need to cut a small piece of pipe to suit

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05888.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05885.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05884.jpg

Step 5: Cut MAF sensor plug and extend to suit length required

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05892.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05891.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05890.jpg

Step 6: Connect all pipe together and trial fit system. If your not happy, keep your hose clamps semi lose so you can bend a twist pipe to suit. NOTE: You push the oval MAF sensor into the 4" which will bend around it and create a seal.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05893.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05896.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05895.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05894.jpg

As you can see I have mounted my POD filter inside my bumper behind where you put the fog lights but its really your own choice, you can rotate it futher around more towards the wheel arch if you cannot fit it there.

I only encountered a few probems with the install. 1 was that I didnt have a hose clamp to suit the 4" but then realised that I did have one from my old setup. I also didnt account for any brackets to hold the setup in place, I will be making some tomorrow but for the moment it is cable tied in place. Other than that it was a pretty straight forward install.

And a pic for laughs:

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m200/D-NYD/DSC05887.jpg Mr_Roberto

One massive problem with what you've said so far - RPW kit includes Mitsu airflow adaptor and K&N oval pod filter to suit. You haven't included that in your cost.

that is because he is going to use another solution.

the 4" to 3" straight reducer is formable, and it will just be clamped over the oval outlet of the maf.

personally 3-3/4" fits much better but is pretty hard to find in reducer form

RPW kit cost $320 + $32 postage includes everything except the trailer wire (MAF extension wire)

ur cost $171 +$136 for the oval pod n the adaptor +$15 postage total = $322

that is because he is going to use another solution.Cool, but the price listed in the first price is a cold air pipe, not an intake.

Very interested to see the outcome of this. Good luck :D

my first intake for my dohc was a 3" to 2.75" 45degree reducer from the TB into roughly 400mm of alloy pipe to a 4" to 3" reducer which goes from the pipe to the MAF i then brought a 18$ adapator off ebay which allowed a 3" 90degree a bit more pipe to the inner wheel guard toa 3" pod i already owned.

I later remade it to put the MAF in the inner wheel area behind the front bumper. The rest is much the same shape.

Just so you know guys 6M of 3" 1.6mm wall Alluminium is a whopping 38bucks.

you can easily do 3 cars with this. To me al is much better then stainless asthetically, being an old pig/import owner

See 1st 2nd and 3rd Post, all updated with pics and feed back is welcome so I can improve thread for easier understanding.

86 - As much as this is a great DIY I do have to agree with HRD2GT here as for the $320 odd you also get the oval K&N. I installed the CAI On his car and was impressed with it. I personally think the only way it's REALLY going to be cheaper is if things are purchased in bulk.

You've done a great DIY guide though, And it is a cheaper option for people not wanting the filter, great job mate.

just becareful of puddles of water... ask hrd2gt about them ....

This is correct, if all these parts are included with the RPW kit then there is not much of a mark up in parts. I suppose it would depend on quality of the kit. I am very impressed with the silicone hoses I have as well as the stainless steel (316).

For those who already have a POD with adapter on the car, this is the path to take. For those wanting a cheaper option to upgrade their intake without having to pay for another POD and adapter.

Keep the feedback coming. :)

I have an exposed round pod on mine atm, if I were to use that round pod in this set up it'd be great.

But I agree, if I had to buy the oval pod on top, it wouldn't be that economical.

What happens when you're driving in the rain?

Btw, I'm still not convinced the oval pod has it's advantages over round.
Anything definitive on round vs. oval?

As quoted from the the RPW home page..

''Prices on this website are in Australian Dollars, and does not show Australian GST Charged until you log into the website or place an order.''

So the price is $375 including GST+postage so your looking at just over $400 to your door.

Thanks Tyson, so there you go, the kit is $400 from RPW. Thanks for that. So if you do it yourself using the parts I listed, you can save around 80 bucks.

Yeah this is a pretty awesome idea.
Didn't think about the cost of the oval pod.

But Elite, what about going through water?

What happens then?

I'm basically tossing up between box + hose or this.

what about going through water?

What happens then?.

you'll be in the middle of the road with ur hazard lights on going nowhere, that's wot will happen lol :P

Where I have mounted my POD it is protected from underneath and from the front once I put my fog light cover back on, the only place where water will get to the pod will be where it flicks off the tyre.

I see... We'll see, if I ever start going to the track I'll definitely be doing this.

Thanks for the write up Elite, same quality job for half the price!

Hopefully I'll be using it in the future.

Where I have mounted my POD it is protected from underneath and from the front once I put my fog light cover back on, the only place where water will get to the pod will be where it flicks off the tyre.

Depending on the size of the puddle :)

I've got one of these too and yes the induction note is awesome especially on a early morning hills run on a cold cold day.

I've got a similar setup and my pods alot more exposed
Puddles havent been a problem for me
But I would recommend getting a sock for the pod

do you reckon the sock will do much? if your gonna go through a puddle, waters gonna get in either way. i doubt it'd make it to the INTAKE as it'd have to defy half a meter of gravity first. who knows.
Still deciding weather or not to keep my pod up the top next to the scoop or down the bottom...

Sock will mainly be to keep the filter clean
Being lower to the ground and more exposed to the outside its bound to collect more things

Hey, great write up.

IMO - to make it a bit better, please rotate the photos which are side-on, especially the engine bay pics.

As for safety of this mod in use, if small amounts of water get in then I imagine that at full throttle, the engine will be sucking through that straw with enough force to draw some water up - water tension will hold droplets to the sides and the suction will draw them up faster than gravity pulls them down. The only hope is that the amounts of water are small and the heat in the intake system causes it to evaporate - then it will have less impact in the combustion chamber.

Apparently you need about a teaspoon of water into a cylinder to kill it though?


If the intake ever gets submerged, then unless the engine stalls before the water reaches the top, then it's bye bye engine.

Well... that might be true, but I have a pic of my TR spitting like 2L of water out the exhaust.... so I dont know how true the teaspoon theory is. Like I said, from underneath I am protected by the bar, from front on I am protected by the fog light cover/fog lights the only exposed area is between the pod and the wheel. Now I dont think this will greatly affect driving on a wet road as your pod being a K&N is oiled. This theoretically should repel small ammounts of water spray. As for puddles, just steer clear of them? Really, what are you doing driving through puddles that go up past your bumper. Things like this you just gotta keep in mind, its your call on the mod, I'm just showing you how to do it. :)

I love the work, but I think the idea is lacking. In a 3rd gen you have the scoop, it seems to do the job pretty well.

I think this is a major issue with car modifications. Your car was designed to function in a range of conditions from the snow with chains to driving through water, every time we change something you lose one of those functions and all the engineering tolerances built in.

Is this set-up defectable?

You know, exposed pod yada yada.

Is this set-up defectable?

You know, exposed pod yada yada.

Dunno about other states but not in VIC as mine passed the RW with no issues

It's not exposed to the engine bay so it can't get soaked in fuel so it's not a fire hazard.

I love the work, but I think the idea is lacking. In a 3rd gen you have the scoop, it seems to do the job pretty well.Have you heard one of these? You only do it for the noise!

Have you heard one of these? You only do it for the noise!

After driving around carefully the last couple of days to ensure that everything was okay, I let her rip last night in 1st and 2nd....:eeek:.... The sound this intake makes from 5,000rpm - 6,000rpm is unreal. Ive had to make sure I am not driving near small children or animals in case they get sucked into my engine.:ninja:

Mods, can you please close and sticky this thread in the DIY section.:beer:

with the silician hoses some times there some cheap ones on ebay that are good

This is true, but I actually have a price list from Turbo tech if anyone is interested? They are pretty reasonably priced. I was paying around $30 a piece and they are really good quality, nice and thick with about 6 layers?

Does it really sound that much different to just an exposed pod in the engine bay?
I'll let Ben (86_elite) do the talking about mine ;)

I'll let Ben (86_elite) do the talking about mine ;)

Haha righto Ben convince me mate! I'm assuming that stainless pipe resonates pretty well which would make a bit of difference.

Yeah okay I dont know why, but Robs is loud on idle, sounds like its going to suck you up, and the real fun begins at 5,000rpm, once she is singing the induction noise is crazy!! The mod is worth it IMO, I do believe that I have picked up a tiny bit in my mid range and the sound is great :)

After driving around carefully the last couple of days to ensure that everything was okay, I let her rip last night in 1st and 2nd....:eeek:.... The sound this intake makes from 5,000rpm - 6,000rpm is unreal. Ive had to make sure I am not driving near small children or animals in case they get sucked into my engine.:ninja:

Mods, can you please close and sticky this thread in the DIY section.:beer:

Sound clip or ban !

The TF used to be epicly loud when I had the POD, heatshield, and the streetfighter on. I want to hear what this is like so I can decide what to do with the TF when it's off the road, muahahahaha :hmm:

Will try tonight as I am racing the car down the 1/4 so maybe you can hear it.

Hey, great write up.

Apparently you need about a teaspoon of water into a cylinder to kill it though?


If the intake ever gets submerged, then unless the engine stalls before the water reaches the top, then it's bye bye engine.

This is really only true for diesels which run at much higher 20:1 compression. I have seen a mate drive his old Daihatsu F20 into a billabong near a sand mine and when we lifted it out with a huge catapillar front end loader, took the spark plugs out and turned over we had about half a cup of water eject from some cylinders put the plugs back in and it started up fine. It happens to dirt bikes on swamp runs a bit too.

I'm not saying it would do it any good but a small amount of water is unlikely to get past the air filter and will most likely vapoirise in the plenum/intake chamber as you suggested.

The pod socks are actually used on K&N jet ski pods too and they must be fairly effective at keeping out splashes of water. I believe they do restrict airflow a little though.

RPW says 90% more filtration for 2% air flow restriction.

Not sure how accurate that is.

Sound clip or ban !

The TF used to be epicly loud when I had the POD, heatshield, and the streetfighter on. I want to hear what this is like so I can decide what to do with the TF when it's off the road, muahahahaha :hmm:
yEk-dijYR2Q

Not the easiest of things to film, but it was a dead quiet Friday night with noone around (obviously)

Just looking at eBay for silicon hose prices, found some for $20 a bend - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SILICONE-SILICON-HOSE-2-5-90-DEGREE-BEND-PROBOOST_W0QQitemZ350335112793QQcmdZViewItemQQptZA U_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5191999659

This could be a cheaper way to go about things :) Using a standard pod would also cut prices down as you would not need the 4" to 3" reducer.