Hi guys,

My 380 vrx is needing some new front brake pads. I went down to repco and got some Bendix General CT brake pads, model DB1778 (if that means anything).

Have checked the discs, they look fine. So my question is, what tools do i need to change the brake pads? I have never done it before. I have my car jack to use, and i have a couple of spanners. Will i need some multi grips, or some vice grips? What is the process of changing the pads after i have removed the wheel?

Apparently it is pretty easy, but I would like to know as well because I havnt done it before.

Here's my rough run down..

(1) Undo wheel nuts, remove wheel
(2) Now some cars you can do it from the outside, but magnas the pads are fitted from the inside of the caliper so you have to remove it.. there's two bolts holding the brake caliper on.. from memory 17mm maybe 14mm.. don't get confused with the strut tower bolts or one of the bolts into the hub. You really want a ratcheting socket to do this bit if possible.
(3) Then remove the caliper, mind because you shouldn't really hang it from the hoses so if you need to leave it for a bit, use a bit of wire to tie it to your spring.
(4) Push the old pads out with your fingers is usually fine
(5) You may need to compress the pistons back in with a G clamp or similar.. last time I did this I actually opened the bleed nipple in the process but apparently thats not necessary. Otherwise the pads will be sitting in too close as the pistons were previously taking up the wear on the old pads.
(6) Put the new pads in, mind to line the spring up correctly not let it fall in the hall, its a bit fiddly but you should be able to get it in a recess it nicely make sure its sitting flush.. also don't forget on the front you might have to transfer the vibration damper thingies (you'll see they just clip off the back of the pad).. for 380 brakes i had to use a flat blade screw driver to get the metal retaining clips in.
(7) Put the caliper back over the brakes.. and bolt it back up.. make sure you do it up nice and tight so it doesn't come off! Ask someone for help/advice if you are not sure how tight to do it up.
(8) Replace wheel
(9) If you did open the bleed nipple.. and didn't use hose to do it.. you will want to bleed the brakes again.. read up/check manual for that process.


Corrections welcome.

Lathiat, thanks so much for that, greatly appreciated :D

Will be a good excuse to get a nice sidchrome socket set :P

When pushing the pistons back in with a G clamp (and you will need to push them back in!), use the old brake pad or some other suitable 'spacer' between the pistons and the clamp, don't use the clamp directly on the pistons.

Also you will need two spanners to undo the caliper bolt, one to hold one side of the bolt while you undo the other side. IIRC you need a 17mm for holding and a 14mm for undoing.

And you don't need to undo both caliper bolts and remove the whole caliper, you only need to remove one of them and then swing the caliper away from the hub. But as Lathiat says, make sure it's supported in some way such as with a bit of wire.

KJ.

Brakes are really important to get right.

If you dont know what you are doing get someone who does the first time to show you.

If you stuff it up you might get hurt.

Brakes are really important to get right.
And also very easy :)

Instead of loosening the nipple, can you pop the cap off the brake fluid reservoir/top-up bottle thingy.

I've fitted General CT's all round on the 380, and have zero squeal now. AMC Sponsor Brake Pads (http://www.aussiemagna.com//forums/showthread.php?t=68876)