Hi hows everyone going.
Just a quick question, probably stupid, but here it goes.
Sometimes when i put my foot down a little hard, the car tends to rev out fairly high before changing into gear. its a TE auto.
Would anyone be able to give me hand with this.
Thanks

it's not meant to do that. your autobox is slipping. that's what's happening to mine too. mine slips into neutral even when i'm not stepping hard on the accelerator.

mine does the same thing occasionally. Interested in a solution to!

Mine has that problem to. Every now and then it'll slip into neutral on up-shifts. It also some times feels as if its missing when it tries to change, instead of just one kind of bump into the next gear theres two in quick succession. What brand of transmission fluid are you's using? Im not sure what mine is, although from memory, I never used to have these problems when I first got my car before I had the fluid changed. Has anyone else ever used non-mitsu fluid in their 3rd gen auto transmission and had problems?

Mine has done it 2 or 3 times since doing 2nd gear burnouts at the drags about a month ago
my fluid needs a change.............(very brown) everytime i change it i can never seem to get it all out

you can never completely get rid of ATF manually. you will need to use a machine to flush 90% of the contents out. a manual flush is good enough in my opinion as long as you change it more frequently.

i don't think the shifting problems has anythign to do with the type of atf. i use mitsu specified fluid and i got it machine-flushed last year. didn't solve a thing. the shifting problems were still there. sent it to mitsu a couple of times and they couldn't fault it. i think it's just another magna design flaw. guess we'll just have to live with it :cry:

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7674
see my post there

Yeah, you could do what the AWD VR-X Team have done with their cars...

Lots of great info here.
Had the car 98 TF Altera wagon serviced by a local mechanic who only did half a job. He told me the Transmission needed flushing as the fluid smelt burnt. On that account he was right. Did the job myself - not too hard.

I bought 10 litres trans fluid from a Mitsubishi dealer and their service guy told me to drop the cooling hose off at the radiator. Also bought a filter (Repco $13.00 as Mitsu is $33.00).

Steps.
1 Take off air pipe to air filter so that you can get at the filter. Good filter wrench (band type) required at base of filter. It was on very tight. Coat seal on new filter with trans fluid and instal.
2 Take off plastic splash guard under radiator.
3 remove bolt securing cooling pipes to radiator
4 Use broad pliers to remove clips from rubber hose joining the short metal pipe at the radiator to the long pipes going to tranny near the radiator bottom hose then remove rubber hose
5 use 8mm tubing from both pipes into a container - plan on up to 10 litres.
6 Start the engine (Park) and fluid will be pumped out
6 using a funnel to the filler tube add fluid to the tranny CAUTION do not let it run low on fluid!!
7 When nice clean red fluid start coming out - stop the engine.
8. reconnect everything.
9. CARE!! the fluid you pumped out should be only a little bit more than you put in.
10 CHECK fluid level when hot in neutral.

My transmission is noticably smoother and quicker.
Any good tips on changing the rear bank spark plugs??

So does the above method flush the torque converter aswell? Im guessing it does seeing the transmission is running while you do it and the fluid is circulating and getting pumped around.

doesn't the torque converter need the car to be in D and foot on brake to flush? else the TC solenoid won't activate and fluid in there wouldn't go anywhere?

Rear bank of spark plugs, i found the following the easiest:
1) unbolt throttle body to intake plenum
2) unbolt intake plenum (front and rear and all the little things attached to it)
3) lift off intake plenum (careful not to bend guide bolts on both sides)
4) you can get to the rear plugs once your plenum is off.

doesn't the torque converter need the car to be in D and foot on brake to flush? else the TC solenoid won't activate and fluid in there wouldn't go anywhere?

Rear bank of spark plugs, i found the following the easiest:
1) unbolt throttle body to intake plenum
2) unbolt intake plenum (front and rear and all the little things attached to it)
3) lift off intake plenum (careful not to bend guide bolts on both sides)
4) you can get to the rear plugs once your plenum is off.

Does following the above method mean that you don't have to disconect anything from the throtle body, as in just remove from plenum and set aside???? :P

Cause the only fear I have in doing this is having to remove vacume hoses and stuff and then not knowing where everything goes :redface:

1. Use dig cam to take shots before and so on
or
2. Mark all hoses/connections with masking tape and numbers
or
3. Mark them with red paint - nooo just kidding....


Cause the only fear I have in doing this is having to remove vacume hoses and stuff and then not knowing where everything goes :redface:

This flushes Torque converter as well hence pumping out 8.5 litres+ of old fluid.
I had heard that it should be in D or N but the service guy at Mitsubishi said it would work in Park & it did. Fluid only started to come clean at about 8.5 litres which is what it is supposed to hold, about 5l in trans and 3.5 in TC.
Shifts are very smooth now.

Many thanks White Devil & Phonic.

The Hayes manual indicated to take the whole lot off but when I had a good look I thought it may be possible to seperate the throttle body from the plenum. Leaving throttle body on the car has to be a whole lot easier & faster - not having to disconnect as much. :D

Many thanks White Devil & Phonic.


Your welcome :D ...but ummm I'm not really sure how I helped??? :redface:

You provided info re changing rear bank of plugs - so I am grateful - also I have read some other threads - all info is welcome.

I'm glad I could be of some help :D

hi,
i have a TE auto sedan and about 4months after buying the car started slipping between 2nd and 3rd (reving out between gears) and i took it out to an auto trans place that my warrentie company wanted it to go to. He told me the auto transmission needed a flush, new filter and the ecu reset badly so i got him to do it and within a week it was doing it again. i took it back again and he said to reset the ecu again as the ecu could need reseting a few times it was apparently known that the early 3rd gen magnas had ecu problems with them being stubborn with learning driving patterns, hence reving between gears. i haven't gotten around to reseting it yet. but only time will tell.