Hey guys,

I bought a TJ Magna a couple of months back and have finally started getting the engine all sweet, so that i can start the other things like body kit and rims, etc. anyways i member when i got the car i did an oil change. when i dropped the old oil it was really really dirty but i was told by the guy at repco that wen i put the new oil in it will be ok. anyways i changed the oil and now am worried because the oil has become a dark colour as well. should i drop the oil again and place new oil inside aswell as a new filter or can i buy some product that can remove all the old oil? by the way when i did the first oil change i noticed that the checking metal stick had brown dirt stuck to it. i wiped the stick only to find that the liquid came off but the metal has been stained a brown colour. can i get a new dip stick thing from anywhere?

thanks.

i suggest putting some cheap oil in to run around in for a couple of 100 k's, then drop it and refill with something quality like Penrite. New oil filter is a must! Dont forget to replace te o-ring seal as well.

dont worry about the dipstick, mine is like that too.

cool thanks for the advice,

jus a quick question where can i get an o ring seal from?

dont they usualy come with the new oil filter?

Go to your local Mits dealer, grab a new filter and some of the Mits Engine Flush

Run this with the car at idle for about 20 mins

Drian the Oil, drop the filter and replace the Oil with Penrite HPR15

Oil will go dark, well Mineral based or semi synth anyway due to carbon build up in the oil. If you have an engine that has not really been cared for or has had rubbish oil, new oil will go dark faster as well as the better oil will tend to pick up some of that build up as it circulates

Another thing with Mineral or semi synth is that it will hold a small amout of moisture, this in turn when mixed with the sulphur which is a bi product of combustion, will turn into H2SO4 or Sulphuric Acid. Thus the reason that oil should be changed on a regular basis, especially in a car that does low miles

Full synth will stay a lot cleaner


dont they usualy come with the new oil filter?
No, he means the "O" ring on the sump plug, grab one when yo grab your filter and flush

ok cool,

i'm a little confused :) should i put the engine flush with the current oil now and let it run for 20 or should i buy cheap new oil do a oil change put the engine flush in with the cheap oil, let it run for 20 then drop the oil again and fill new oil using penrite hpr 15

Nah, just put it in with the oil you hav now, dont drive it with it in there, just leave it to idle

ok cool will do this tommorow. thanks heaps guys

meh ignore my post I was to slow typing

Hey guys,

I bought a TJ Magna a couple of months back and have finally started getting the engine all sweet, so that i can start the other things like body kit and rims, etc. anyways i member when i got the car i did an oil change. when i dropped the old oil it was really really dirty but i was told by the guy at repco that wen i put the new oil in it will be ok. anyways i changed the oil and now am worried because the oil has become a dark colour as well. should i drop the oil again and place new oil inside aswell as a new filter or can i buy some product that can remove all the old oil? by the way when i did the first oil change i noticed that the checking metal stick had brown dirt stuck to it. i wiped the stick only to find that the liquid came off but the metal has been stained a brown colour. can i get a new dip stick thing from anywhere?

thanks.

If you changed the oil but not the filter the first time this would have dumped about 300ml of old oil back into the system. maybe that's one reason it looks dirty now but other factors like engine condition and type of driving i.e lots of city or stop start short journey trips can dirty it up quicker too. I change my oi.l every 7500k in between services. It's been suggested to me that it's good practice to replace the filter with every oil change. My dipstick has a light brown stain in the read area. Not really worth replacing it if it's still does the job though in my opinion.I use well known brands & synthetic blends + genuine filters. Had my oil changed about 2000k ago and it has a light brown colour to it with 60% of this highway driving.

sorry bout the mistake TW2005 i was meant to state that i did also change the oil filter the first time i did the oil change on the car.

I would have thought the HPR15, being a 15W-60, would be too thick? Unless of course the engine is very worn. The oil recommendations on the Penrite site says the HPR10 is the recommended oil. Using a too thick of an oil can be bad as it doesn't drain away from the top of the engine as quickly, meaning a higher level of carbonisation on the lifters etc. Another detriment is it can actually affect your fuel economy slightly. A too thin of an oil however leaks past the seals and means you burn more oil, but a smart choice can mean a slight fuel saving.

So Penrite recommend the HPR10, and Nulon on their website recommend the synthetic 5w-30.

The oil recommendation pages can be found on both the Penrite and Nulon sites. Here are the direct links for the models:

TW Magna:
http://ew5.earlweb.com/recommendations.php?site=42&sector=1&category=6&subset=224&vehicle=35175

TE Magna (just an example to show HPR10 is recommended even for this older model engine):
http://ew5.earlweb.com/recommendations.php?site=42&sector=1&category=6&subset=224&vehicle=6140

TJ Magna LPG (note the HPR5):
http://ew5.earlweb.com/recommendations.php?site=42&sector=1&category=6&subset=224&vehicle=35167

On the Nulon site, follow the prompts on this page:
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/NulonAus/default.asp

And you'll find the main recommended oil is the 5w-30:
http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productName=100%_Synthetic_5W-30_Long_Life_Diesel_and_Petrol_Engine_Oil

For the TE-TF, a 10W-40 is the recommended oil, but thats only due to the engine age. For the TH 3.0L (same engine), they primarily recommend the 5W-30.

So, since the TW should be a low wear engine, a 5w- or at most a 10w oil would be the way to go. You aren't doing a low wear engine any favours by using a 15W- in it.

Before you do put the new oil in it though, use a good engine oil flush in your old oil. Once that has drained away, put in some Nulon Lifter Tuneup & free, that will clean the carbonisation at the top of the engine which has most likely occurred since the oil was dark. That is safe to use till next oil change.

If you are worried about the dirtyness of the oil, as others have said put in some cheaper oil (but not stupidly crap oil, it won't be nice to your engine), and run that for say, 1000km, and use the engine oil flush and drain it again. If doing it this way, use the nulon lifter tuneup and free in with the cheap oil from the start (so it has a 1000km to do its thing).

NOTE: The reason why you don't want to use a stupidly cheap oil in it for too long is it may not have the lubrication of the better oils, the detergents to keep the engine clean, is probably a straight mineral oil which carbonises much easier than a semi synthetic (and especially more than a fully synthetic like the Nulon 5w-30), and may be detrimental to the O2 sensors and catalytic converter, and probably won't meet the required spec for the engine. Looking very quickly on the supercheap auto website, none of the cheaper oils would do your engine any favours, and many are 20W-50 etc. The cheapest oil safe to use would be the Shell HX5 (mineral oil), but the Shell HX7 (says its fully synthetic, at $34) which is $5 or so mroe would be a much better flushing oil. . Its better to use a better suitable oil and go for longer, say even 2500km, than using an oil that isn't suitable for 1000km.

Burfadel,
Sorry bud, I can see the work you have put into that post, however if the OP has an engine which has oil going black in a short time, it is not a low wear engine but for the record, I have been using the 15 in Magna Engines for many years inbcluding my own and brand new crate engines and it is fine. The difference between 10 and 15 is actually not that great and no does not lead to carbonisation or excessive engine wear

If you use a 5 grade like recommended, you will have an engine that sounds like a bag of marbles has been dropped in the top end, not all engines will sound like htis but many will, I have had many who have gone to the 5w and then not long after gone back to the 10 or 15

I have seen tw's with moon miles here and there, so it's a bit of a broad statement to say that all tw's need a 5w-30. How many kilometres the engine has done must be taken into consideration.

I use 5-30W and the engine is quiet and no lifter noise. I also found my fuel usage dropped when i went to that grade from 10-40W, which i used a few when i first got the car, especially since i do mostly city driving.

Dirty oil means it has been washing the engine inside and/or is very old. Keep change intervals to max 6 months regardless of km - oils age.
Viskosity requirement is up to the individual engine condition. If you can manage some 5W30 then use it. If it causes rattling (usually lifters) when cold, increase to 10W etc.
Incidentally - I just had Shell Plus 10W40 Semi in the donk for about 4 G km (road trip Syd-Noosa etc) and it was in only about 5-6 weeks and it started to cause massive cold start rattling. Drained it off the other day and it was like water (well...)!! Never (over 3 decades of motoring) seen oil deteriorate like this and will never use that oil again. Strange! And before anyone suggests, AFRs are ok as well as engine cooling.
Using Valvoline Semi now, cos over many recent years and many different oils, I have found Valvo to perform decently in my donk.

I saw this thread and it reminded me of this http://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l-general-discussion/368307-im-done-with-this-car.html

sorry to bring that one back from the dead :P

Note, please dont try that... lol

wow, thanks for the help guys, very much appreciated:)

this was from the Penrite website.

Alternative recommendations:
<-30°C to 40°C, 5W-30;
-25°C to 40°C, 10W-30;
-15°C to >50°C, 15W-40/15W-50;
-10°C to >50°C, 20W-40/20W-50

Ambient tempreture is also an aspect to what oil to choose.