1) Dont tell me to buy a new one, simply do not have the money (6G74 DOHC oil pumps are not cheap)
2) This oil pump was off a motor with a spun bearing.

How do i go about getting this oil pump cleaned up internally for re-installation. can I just take it to get "chemically" cleaned at an engine re builders or?

Cause I don't want bits of bearing in my oil!

Does it come apart? If so, wash out with petrol or kero, reassemble. If you can't pull it apart, slosh some solvent through it and see what comes out. You should be safe, as a spun bearing usually leaves lumps on the crankshaft, or dumps bits straight into the sump, which, if picked up, will end up in the oil filter.

Cheers, Does come apart. What about TB cleaner? was going to give the whole unit a clean anyway.

Any solvent will do. Look for presence of metal bits that shouldn't be there, and damage such as scoring on the housing and rotating bits. That will give you a good idea if any metal debris has passed through the pump. If you are happy with it, lube it up and seal in plastic bag, or gladwrap, until it is put into use.

If the oil pump has an integrated pressure limiting valve, pull that apart too and check the plunger is smooth and slides up and down the bore easily.

also make sure the bearings are not flogged out....

hard to tell if the internals of the pump

are damaged without seeing it pulled apart

do clean it and refit
there are wear specs
specific to the oil pump in the repair manual
if you have it for the 6G74 DOHC engine

Your going to have to strip the oil pump assembly, the screws on the coner plate can be very tight, so get a centre punch in the middle of the phillips head screws and give them 2 firm hits with a hammer, that will loosen them you might still need an impact driver. clean the 2 rotors and check for damage. Once clean fit the rotors in the housing and make sure they turn freely.
Remove the pressuure reliefe spring and valve, clean them and make sure the relief valve slides freely in it's bore if not linnish it and the bore with some 600 wet & dry, to remove scoreing.
If all the above is working OK reassemble thye rotors with some light grease to help initial pickup and apply oil to the bore and valve before assembling the pressure relief system.
If these 2 above components aren't working 100% do not use the pump! get one that does! Don't cut corners on the oil pump!
Hope this is of help.

Cheers Dave.

To add to that, 1; check clearance between rotor and assembly are to spec. and 2; align the marks on the rotor and assembly.

What professional field can take care of this cleaning service for me? I'm not game to take vital components apart just yet. I know what I can and what I can't tackle. I would rather get this done by a "pro" but who.

a reliable engine reconditioner or rebuilder

any qualified mechanic should be able do the same thing

...what caused the motor to spin a bearing?

Usually it is a failure of the running clearance due to some contamination of the oil, failure of oil film strength or the failure of the tri metal bearing material. It's a guessing game really. A poorly maintained engine or one that is flogged mercilessly sometimes do this. Detonation, the list goes on . . . . Excessive boost distorting the conrod, etc.

like, we are sure the oil pump works?

That's what he is trying to find out, cuppas, dismantle and inspect, reassemble and use, easy as, like.

...what caused the motor to spin a bearing?

Pumping 8psi of boost into it and then redlining it for 6 minutes flat out never helped :) This is the motor out of the $50K dirt buggy I have, the one that now runs a 6G74 S4

Ok,
Lets get back on topic here please

The reason the bearing failed was the buggy bottomed out and crushed the sump in the middle of a special stage. Yes it was running close to 16psi boost but oil starvatoin was casued by the pick up being crushed for about 20 seconds ( I know this for fact as it was I who picked up this engine and spoke to the guy who owns the buggy)

Paul, dismantle the pump exactly as Dave has stated, clean it, re assemble and measure the rotor clearance, if it is in limits, it is fine to use, if not then yo have issues. Remember you also have the 3.0 as well as the one on your car you could use the internals from. Your oil pump casting is shagged but the rotor may still be fine to use.

Ok,
Lets get back on topic here please

The reason the bearing failed was the buggy bottomed out and crushed the sump in the middle of a special stage. Yes it was running close to 16psi boost but oil starvatoin was casued by the pick up being crushed for about 20 seconds ( I know this for fact as it was I who picked up this engine and spoke to the guy who owns the buggy)

Paul, dismantle the pump exactly as Dave has stated, clean it, re assemble and measure the rotor clearance, if it is in limits, it is fine to use, if not then yo have issues. Remember you also have the 3.0 as well as the one on your car you could use the internals from. Your oil pump casting is shagged but the rotor may still be fine to use.

I'll give you a call tomorrow or just talk to you about it friday but I'll be fixing the TR first as it's the one with rego, so I'd rather pay for your time to inspect and dis/re-assemble before installation