TL/TW power window switches

My 09/2004 TL VRX AWD just suffered a broken drivers side window auto down switch and on examination it appears that all 4 switches are moulded/fixed and contained in the one centre console mount. The two little tabs that hold the rocker in place that have broken off were part of the 4 switch console switch panel unit. The contacts underneath the rocker have dislodged blowing the 40amp fuse.

It looks as if I will have to replace the complete 4 switch panel unit as a block.

Can anyone advise the correct way to remove the switch panel unit and if anyone has one spare I would appreciate an email or response below.

Isn't it held in place by 4 screws to the console, the same as the cupholders?

s4v3 just did a conversion so it'll be fresher in his mind than mine so probably best to shoot him a PM. He probably has the switches left over as he didn't use them AFAIK.

Isn't it held in place by 4 screws to the console, the same as the cupholders?

s4v3 just did a conversion so it'll be fresher in his mind than mine so probably best to shoot him a PM. He probably has the switches left over as he didn't use them AFAIK.

I cant see any screws to remove the centre power window switches and my aftermarket manual says 4 clips to remove the top console cover that surrounds the gearshifter and includes the cupholders and coin tray etc in the TJ but doesn't specifically refer to the TL/TW model with the centre power window switches. The 4 clips are apparently basicaly at each corner of the shifter surround.

When I removed the console bin liner box I cannot feel any clips or screws to remove the centre power window switches. Being a VRX it has built in rear aircon outlets which may mean its a completely different console base moulding to the TJ or TL ES models.

I had the exact same thing happen to mine last week,you need to lift the center console out by putting a couple of fingers between the console and the shifter surround then gently lift,it should just pop out then unclip the harness from the bottom of the power window switch panel,you then should be able to feel the little tabs that hold the switch panel into the main console so just press them in with your finger nail,once one side is out the others should be easy and the 'block' should come free.

T_double _U is right on, but you dont need to remove the console bin.

This is from an TL/TW console removal goide.

Easy Peasy, Ease (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0224.jpg) out the gear surround ( includes P/W controls and Cup holders), Prying (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0225.jpg) upwards all around and it comes off, the very front is the only bit that doesnt unclip. that slots in at the front, Disconnect (http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/IMG_0226.jpg) the Power window connection plug,
Apply hand brake, Chock if not on level ground, Place car in neutral and pull surround sliding to the rear of the car.

Thanks guys

......and another handy tip (happened to me) - If the little "legs" that hold the centre power window switch in place break off, as they seem to randomly do in the TL/TWs, instead of getting another window switch, literally just stick on blu-tack where the broken leg is - use a fair bit, and press down hard.

This may sound freakishly simple, but it works!

Apparently the price of them has dropped heaps at the Mitsu dealers. I was quoted $147.70 for a complete unit today from local dealer and went in to confirm with next day delivery possible.

The 5 wreckers I rang didn't have any but a couple had sold one recently, all said I would be looking at $140 -150 and one said he had previously checked price and they were over $400 new.

Can anyone else confirm the cost of these units previously?

Thanks for the blue tac fix it seems like a good backup. Luckily I had all my broken tabs and the contact rockers and have glued my tabs back on with Araldite and they are looking pretty solid so I'll try to fit tomorrow once fully cured. I've also located some off Hulkster so will grab them as well as it seems to be a fairly common problem with TL/TW.

And its a pain in the arse opening electronic boom gates without an open drivers window.

I might be able to pinch you one from the wreckers tomorrow. Condition unknown. I left the switches behind in the car when I robbed it for my conversion. They are simple to pull apart and check but a bit fincky to put back together re: contacts... Shoot me an email of the pic of the broken part and I'll see what I can find. You should have it after the KJ grille dramas... I finally recieved - Epic aust post failure.

I might be able to pinch you one from the wreckers tomorrow. Condition unknown. I left the switches behind in the car when I robbed it for my conversion. They are simple to pull apart and check but a bit fincky to put back together re: contacts... Shoot me an email of the pic of the broken part and I'll see what I can find. You should have it after the KJ grille dramas... I finally recieved - Epic aust post failure.

Thanks - always happy to get a backup - happily cover postage etc.

I tried my repaired switch today without success for the drivers window but got all 3 other windows working again after dismantling and putting back to together a few times. Yes the loose metal contact rockers inside are fiddly to get lined up and easily misaligned while reassembling. After 3 tries I think it was the fact I blew the 40 Amp fuse previously when the drivers window metal rockers had come loose and were floating around that cooked something on the circuit board and is preventing the drivers window from operating. Supporting this theory is the window lock switch no longer appears to work as the other 3 windows operate despite it being engaged and disengaged. The glued tabs on the plastic rocker cover switch seem to work fine.

I got one fixed under warranty last year.

Mine went between Casteron and Mt Gambier where the passenger side window just dropped and wouldn't come back up (the day before I broke the tab on the drivers switch) in pouring rain.

Went to a couple of wreckers there who had none but quoted around $200. Unsure of cost of a new as it just had "Under Warranty" on the invoice.

Easy job though as Lilydale Mits did it while I waited and I didn't get to finish my coffee :)

Hi folks....I'm very new here because I found this topic through the search, I have realised it is an old thread but still very relevant none the less.

I had some issues with my TL AWD window control unit in the center console as the passenger front window refused to go back up...nothing...zero but I did persevere and got it up eventually.

Went down to the local Mitsu dealer in Newcastle and they quoted me $420 to fit a generic module in it's place coz they don't make the originals anymore.......Bugger!!

So I came home and checked ebay when I came accross one of the wreckers who advertises on there and rang him up and he had exactly what i wanted for $137 inc. GST.

Came back home and back on the internet to find out how to replace it myself....and found this forum(Y)

I never knew this forum existed till yesterday so I promptly joined up.....and I search and found this brilliant peice of info that gave me confidence on fitting without breaking something.

And it worked......job completed in about 7 minutes and all windows working like new.

I wanna thank you blokes for this thread.......saved me $280 that i didn't have.

Cheers

Magna_Mad

(Dave)

Great result for you then Dave ?. And i see you are also fortunate enough to live in gods holiday destination, Newy.

Just as an FYI, we sell brand new aftermarket ones, same ones as your dealer sells, for $119 posted

Just as an FYI, we sell brand new aftermarket ones, same ones as your dealer sells, for $119 posted

Are these the same as the factory units, ie is the housing silver or black plastic, does the drivers switch light up and does the auto function down work?
I'm sure i'm going to have to replace mine eventually and the switches i've seen on ebay look like crap being all black and don't have all the functionality. Although for $80 i suppose you can't complain.

Unfortunately NONE of the aftermarket ones have auto down window or lit switch.

They are Silver in colour, the black ones are another breed which are not really all that good to be honest. Cheap generally buys Cheap, $80 for a new switch I would not touch it

Thanks for the reply, hopefully i'll never need to replace mine but if i do at least i know where to get one now.

Yep my fuse blew (smoke visible and all) 03 TL VRX. All 4 windows ****ed. Luckily they were all up as I was just about to get the car washed lol. Sorted by a local Auto Electrician.

Hehe I got stuck once when I had pulled over into a side street while waiting for a real estate agent to turn up to a house i was viewing and had the drivers window down for air.....it was a scattery shower kinda day and then the worse happened....when I went to fire up the car....the bloody battery collapsed and it was a no-go.....and no power for my window and it started to rain...quite heavily..(you could all see that comin' eh) .....

Well there i was..waiting for the NRMA bloke now...after an hour and a half with a bloody umbrella sticking out of the window trying to keep the rain out....felt like a real wally!!:facejump:

Cheers

Dave

Daughter complained that the passenger front window on her borrowed TL stopped working. Pulled the switch block apart and cleaned the contacts on the rocker switches and it worked again. Looks like the switches carry the full current of the window motors.
Good to know there are aftermarket alternatives if it stuffs up properly.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubishi-Magna-TL-TW-03-08-MASTER-Power-Window-Central-4-button-Switch-NEW-/361045658856?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item540fff8ce8

$85.50, free postage.

Yes Max, they are the cheap ones getting around, I have 4 of them in a box here, all of them broken and not working.

As I always say, you pay cheap crap prices and you often get cheap crap products.

Those ones pictured are a cheap rip off of the genuines ones, the rockers are rubbish and the boards are even worse, the slightly more expensive ones out there have a revised switch design which has so far proven not to burn out like these cheap nasty ones.

Simple choice, get one for $85 bucks and get a few as they will barely last 12 months or pay an extra 40 odd bucks and get one which may last as long as the old one did