Hi I have a 1992 verada which keeps stalling. This has been happening for the past 2 months and it is driving me crazy. When driving the car suddenly switches off. The rev counter goes to zero, then back up and then the car shuts down. This also happens when the car is turned off and i go to start it. The car will run for 5 sec and then shut down. It doesnt happen every day but it makes the car very unreliable as it could shut down any where at any time.

I have taken it to an auto electrician who has looked over it and can not find any faults.
The water pump was leaking and I got that fixed. The car didnt stall for 2 weeks after that and i thought it might of had something to do with it but unfortunately it has shut down again today.

Im at a loss to understand whats going on.

is there anyone with same problems and have fixed it?

ISC problem, very common. It controls the idle speed, should be about 800 rpm with a warm motor. Do a search!

if its very common is there a very simple solution? my local mechaninc didnt know what was wrong, the auto electrician didnt know either. do i need to replace the ecu? It was replaced about 4 years ago though.

Change the ISC buddy! as MadMax said, very common problem. get one out of a TJ magna (black unit, much newer) from the wreckers, won't set you back more then $35.

ok i will do that. only problem is im a noob and have no idea where to look for it and what tools will i need to get it out

8mm socket and extension, or a screwdriver. It's a 6 pin plug on your throttle body. Take off the air intake and you can't miss it.

Yeah take off intake, look at your throttle body and it'll be towards the bottom of the butterfly, remove 6 pin plug, undo 2 screws/bolts and remember the rubber O ring.

how long would it take me to replace?

10 minutes maximum with a philips head screwdriver

ok im back from the wreckers. The first magna we went to the inside part wasnt the right shape. The only car left was a 94 model V6. used that part. he charged me $30 for the part and for him to install it. hopefuly it works. he said if it doesnt it might have something to do with the distributer. but i will wait and see what happens with the car first.

All the ISC's even with different end caps will work. I'm using a 2005 ISC in a 1993 model. Just for future reference :) They will all interchange. Let us know how it goes.

i forgot to mention, when i start the car and it runs for 5 sec and then shuts down. when i try and start it after that the engine doesnt even turn over, it just cranks. the only thing that gets it going again is time. after about 1 hour it will start again. is that still caused by the ISC?

does anyone know if the KR's came with an immob.?

does anyone know if the KR's came with an immob.?

You tell me. All TSs that I have seen with a early version of an immobiliser have a sticker on the rear fixed glass on both sides. Says something like "immobiliser and security coded radio fitted". KRs was earlier, maybe no immobiliser?

You tell me. All TSs that I have seen with a early version of an immobiliser have a sticker on the rear fixed glass on both sides. Says something like "immobiliser and security coded radio fitted". KRs was earlier, maybe no immobiliser?

imteresting. could this be an immob fault? surely if it were ISC it would start again straight away? issues ive had with ISC were as stated but after it stalled, it would immediately start again and run as per usual...

how many ks has the car done

if it isnt electrical like the dissy

has anyone suggested the torque converter may be at fault

Would starting it in N make a different to what the torque converter does?

;1232617']Would starting it in N make a different to what the torque converter does?

worth a try ...... might be a difference

me thinks its an electrical fault but if no change

if the rpm of the motor once started is too low the torque converter would stall out before the car moves

the car has done 270,000 km. when the car does stall it takes time before it will start again which suggests that something has over heated and needs time to cool down. however there is no pattern as to when it stalls. and it seems strange that something could over heat in such a short time. drove it to canberra last month no problems getting there. next day started it up and drove it for 5 mins and it stalled. 2 hours before it would start again.????

sounds like a coil or exciter problem

distributor module ?

something to do with spark

not a fuel or compression problem

Get another coil and power transistor from a wreckers. Fixed the problem on my TS 2.6
Had the ECU, distributor and coil checked by a specialist when the spark died. All ok except the coil. $95 later new coil and all was ok, for a while. Coil failed again, checked power transistor, read low on resistance. $11 coil and transistor from u-get-your-hands-dirty and all ok now for 2 years. I now carry a spare in the boot lol. 10 minute job with a 12 mm socket to change them. Have a look at the low voltage end plug on the coil as there are two types. TR/KR would be the more common one at the wreckers.

I bet your power transistor is out of spec and is overheating.

EDIT: just worked out you have a V6. (KR, not TR. D'oh) Coil and power transistor are separate, but close together. Coil on the back of the air plenum, power transistor attached to the side, on the passenger side.

ok once again im a noob. where abouts are these components. does it need to come from the same model as mine? should i change the coil or power transistor or both. my car does take a while before i can drive it again so it might be the transistor.

Coil and power transistor are separate, but close together. Coil on the back of the air plenum between the firewall and aluminium intake, power transistor attached to the side, on the passenger side. Get them from the same engine as yours. TS, TR, KS, KR.
Seeing we are really only guessing at the problem, get both but just replace the power transistor and try out the car. If no different change the coil as well. When you look at your car to find these components, check that all plugs in that area are in correctly. Might be something simple like the high tension lead from the distributor centre to the coil is loose. lol Its a part of the engine that doesn't stay very clean, so unplug things - usually there is a metal retaining bit that needs to be pushed in, so don't just pull - and check the plugs and sockets for dirt and corrosion. Also look at the plug and socket on the distributor. You might get lucky and fix the problem without costing $$
If you do go to the wreckers grab the short high tension lead from the distributor centre to the coil - you never now . . . . .

thanks for your help. I will do that. I will have to find a engine map online so i know exactly where and what im looking at.

car broke down again today so it isnt the ISC. im going to the wreckers tomorrow to look for a power transistor. if that doesnt work i might have to buy a new car and trade it in :(

My KR was doing the same thing about a week ago, changed the ignition control module, and it went for a couple of days, then started to die again.
Dont wanna scare you here, but ended up being the ECU
$50 off of evilbay

If that is the worst case senario, I have two V6 ECU's here in perfect nick for $20 ea.

;1237167']If that is the worst case senario, I have two V6 ECU's here in perfect nick for $20 ea.

always on call ;)

just a stab in the dark, are you ever losing electrical power, I had stalling and not starting because my battery leads wern't making solid contact with the poles.

When the car stalls I have electrical power cause I can listen to the radio as im swearing at the car. I had the ECU replaced about 2 years ago. could it still be that problem? It wasnt new. Had a mechanic replace it last time but i dont want to pay that much. are you close to the peninsula [TUFFTR]?

When the car stalls I have electrical power cause I can listen to the radio as im swearing at the car. I had the ECU replaced about 2 years ago. could it still be that problem? It wasnt new. Had a mechanic replace it last time but i dont want to pay that much. are you close to the peninsula [TUFFTR]?

I'm not mate, I'm in the western burbs of vic, but I can post it out if you wish.

How will I pay you for it? Are they easy to replace? I have already removed my glove box.

How will I pay you for it? Are they easy to replace? I have already removed my glove box.

Have you got paypal? $10 will cover the postage. if you dont have paypal, Can you Direct deposit? if you like I can send it off via express but would cost $5 more.

they are easy to replace. Once the glovebox is out they should be tucked in the LH corner. You should be able to get to the plugs on it from Underneath I think. if you a get a flashlight in there you should be able to see it. I havent removed one in a while, but if you can get to the plugs that's half the challenge as then you can plug another one in to see if ti fixes it

just make sure the numbers match, or it may not work though

Ive decided to get another car. Any one interested in mine lol. needs new radiator, and what ever the problem is with mine fixed. has a smokey exhaust but apart from that its all good. what do people think its worth? what should i do with it?

http://www.redbook.com.au/

ive been to redbook. this car doesnt run so do i sell it to a wreckers for $200 or is it worth selling it for parts?

Just wanted to say, I have this similar problem also, and found another thread with people replying saying creating a relay between your starter motor and battery would fix it.

I would like to keep this thread going, to kind of find out and resolve the problem 100% for others who experience it, but to also determine 100% what the problem actually is.

Quick description of my problem, is very similar to nst's but also slightly different, basically:

Same symptoms as nst's only my car doesn't have the problem when the engine is cold. It will be fine, starts first go, and idle's/runs fine. Drives fine also, doesn't lose power or anything.

But, I have so far figured out that, it only happens when the car has reached normal operating temperature (about halfway on guage). But even then, it'll only die if the car is not moving for a certain period of time, and has to be sitting and running not moving for a while ie. at the traffic lights, or in slow moving traffic. My thermo's turn on and blast a shitload of air, so they are functioning as they should, I'm guessing though that the engine bay heats up enough that they can't expel enough air out for it to not reach the heat level it does for it to die.

For example, if you sit in traffic, but not long enough for it to die, when you do start moving again, if it's only at 40k or so it will still sometimes die. And it's same way as nst said. You'll be driving, and it's as if you have just killed the engine, revs @ 0 and just death, as if you had turned the key off, but you still have acc power and everything, headlights/radio work. BUT if your rolling fast enough, it seems that it will recover on it's own and just come back to life, and you can drive like normal. That's what I'm finding to be weird about the problem, you don't have to turn or try to turn the car back on, if your lucky and moving fast enough, it will turn back on itself.

Now there are other times, where it will die if it's just sitting and idling for too long again not enough airflow coming through/engine bay heats up.

The other major problem of this is, that when it does die, most of the time you can't start it again for a good 10-20m at least usually, sometimes it can be longer which is a pain. But one thing for sure is that, having the bonnet open cuts the time dramatically and basically guarantees you to be able to start it sooner. And it has started every time, after being given the chance to cool down a little. So the hot-start issue that people seem to have commonly experienced is a definate here. But what causes it to die in the first place? Is it one and the same issue? Part heats up too much, safety design causes it to shut off, until it cools down enough to be in safe operating temperature?

If so, which part is at fault? I'm pretty sure it's not the ISC, since it didn't fix nst's problem, and it's not what the solution was in the other threads regarding this issue.

Here is a quote from Elite_86 who beleives this will fix the issue, and I don't know but I beleive it will fix mine, as what he explains is EXACTLY what is happening to me.


This has happened to me on all 3 of my cars with 2.6's and for $50 bucks you can fix it.

Create a relay between your starter motor and your battery. Sparky should be able to do it for $50. Problem solved.

2.6's do not like to start when they are 'warm', this becomes more frequent with age. Its because they actually rise above operating temperature after you turn your car off because mitsi thermos don't stay on long enough, so its kinda like a fail safe. Took me ages to figure it out, especially when I would leave the car for like 5 min to grab some milk and then it just wouldn't start. I figured out lifting the bonnet for 10 min and it started fine.

I will be very surprised if this doesn't fix your problem.

I reckon your car always starts in the cold, and this problem only happens after a drive. Yes?

The answer for me, is Yes.

Basically I would like to try this for myself, rather than take it to an auto-elec, because I have taken it already to one and asked him to do that, but he wouldn't simply because he didn't wanna do it, have me pay for it, for it only to NOT be fixed after this. So actually having a hard time getting someone to agree to do this in the first place. But also would like to try it myself to save some money and hopefully make a guide/howto out of it for anyone else in the future with the issue. Just need to know if anyone actually knows how to do this, or Elite_86 if your out there, even if you could take pics of the fix that you have had applied to your cars and posted it, that would be great. What parts are needed etc? Surely if it only costs $50 at auto elec it can be done for just a few bucks DIY?

Any help much appreciated.

its amazing how this seems to be a common problem. My barber was telling me that the same thing happend to his magna and couldnt find a cure, he ended up giving it some one on a farm. I bought another car on the weekend (lancer) which is a manual and im not keen on manuals so im still interested in getting mine fixed if this turns out to be the case. btw my car does start when the engine is cold. but if i drive it and park it for 5 mins then start it up again it will start for 5 sec and then die. so the engine is still warm.

Well, after talking to my mechanic on the phone, and him advising me to change the distributor only going off the symptoms I gave him on the phone.

The problem has disappeared from my car.