My son has a TP 2.6 litre with Solex/Mikuni carb and it was flooding on hot days sometimes and
I would have to hold down the accelerator to start it and crank the engine over about 20 or 30 times before it would
start but otherwise the car was running fine. When I took the car from Ipswich to Roma on a long drive it seemed to run better when we got back but that could also be because the weather had cooled down. The car ran fine at night.
I am an ex mechanic so I took the carby off and cleaned it out and I suspected there was a problem with the needle valve but it seemed to be ok. When I put the carb back on the car it would not run. After pulling off the carby again I found the needle valve housing had moved because the O ring was worn locking the needle valve closed.
After fixing this problem and buying a carburetor gasket set from Autobarn for $79 ( comes with needle valve too) and fitting it. I wouldn't recommend
cleaning any old carbys without the gasket set as the gaskets fall apart on disassembly.
It was like overhauling 3 carburetors as it is in 3 parts and I think it took about 4 hours without rushing. After putting it back on the car the car was rough on idle which wasn't happening before and the spark plugs were all black So I put in a new set of plugs but it didn't run any better. The car seems to run better at higher speeds but the idle is very rough. I will need to check the idle jets and there are also vacuum tubes that are perished which I will replace. The plastic nozzles on the thermo valve on the inlet manifold broke due to age and I have to try and get one used as they cant be bought new from what I have found out so far.
Any ideas what the problem could be the car was running better before I pulled the carby down? Also the Automatic choke needs adjusting has anybody done this successfully? Its a complex adjustment having to take the carby off to adjust it then lining everything up and adjusting it according to the temperature change from when you start.
Whoever designed this carby has obviously never heard of the KISS principle (Keep it simple STUPID!)
Any help will be greatly appreciated as I want to get this car running again right for my sons birthday soon.
It is a fantastic car for its age with low ks about 136,000km it has gone to Roma, Sunshine Coast, Gold Coast 3 times from Ipswich which is not bad for a $350 car. The paint is still in excellent condition not like the modern cars which have the clear coat peeling off Which has happened to a 99 Kia I own and a 2000 Honda Acoord Which cost $17,000. Any help will be greatly appreciated also some good diagrams of the Carby and where all the hoses go on and around the carby would be useful. Thanks.

Auto choke can be adjusted with the carb on the car. Wind back the adjustment (screw in the adjuster) while looking at the choke butterfly, you may need to take the locking nut off the adjuster to get it to stay open - you are aiming to keep the choke from fully closing otherwise the carb floods the engine. Aim to get an quick/easy start with the the cold start revs and mixture right, just trial and error I'm afraid. With the air cleaner off start the car and see if the choke opens right up fairly quickly as the engine warms, if not, check that the choke plate is free to move and that the water feed hoses are getting warm. Replace or clean out the hoses if they don't warm up, also the thermostat needs to be working properly to get heat to the carb quickly. If the choke doesn't open, the wax pellet isn't working, and needs to be replaced, if you can get them. I have run this carb with no choke action at all, but you need to pump the throttle to start and needs to be warmed up before you drive off or it will stall easily.
Most carbs from the wreckers would be in the same state, so don't bother. Maybe a Mitsu dealer somewhere in Australia has a brand new one in a box gathering dust?

Vacuum hoses on the engine are important and tend to get brittle with age. Replace all of them, one at a time. Diagram in the manual.
Another member may be able to post up a picture.

I would get the vacuum lines and thermostat right before adjusting the choke.

Keeping it simple wasn't an option for the solex/mikuni engineers as the car had to meet pollution regulations. When new the carb represented the best in the current technology. EFI replaced it and we haven't looked back since, now you know why. lol

Sounds a simpler method than the workshop manual I have for adjusting the auto choke.
I have wondered about 2nd hand carbs from wreckers to try but I will only do that if I don't have to
exchange mine as I have read some of the horror stories of poor fuel economy on this site from some carbs.
EFI is definitely a better option when it is going right but look out if its not. I know of one car can't remember the make where the boss had it for week it had fuel flow meter problems and he couldn't fix it and someone had tried to fix it before him. If you have to replace injectors will probably not be cheap either.
Well that would be nice to find some Mitsi Dealer with a new carby gathering dust. I think it might be easier ton win Lotto or get struck by lightning though somehow. Good idea to check the hoses. I will do that. I have put a new thermostat in so I know that is working ok. Was causing overheating problems when I bought the car as it wasn't opening.
Thanks for your help.

choke adjustment

the adjustment is supposed to be done when the carby is off the car
at a certain temperature
if it is on the car and you need to check it
the important thing is have both marks in the position I have arrowed
orange as line up point
it is done by undoing adjustment point A
this screw is locktighted or with a lock nut in it is sometimes difficult to undo
when undone screw it in or out in till the lines match up
if they do not there is a small amount of movement at adjustment point B
that may help

factory setting jet
something else if the plug is out screw the jet all the way in and back out 3 1/2 turns thats factory but may need small adjustment from there

carby over haul extra notes

drain the water coolant out of the engine first

the choke has to be set off the car
suck on the vaccume pots to make sure both work properly

usefull tool is an impact screwdriver
dont forget where the screws go --- different lengths
long screw in hole next to top butterfly
should be an exploded view of the carby with instructions in the rebuild kit

dont loose the tiny c clips
only use air to clean jets

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/choke1_117.jpg

As long as all the anti polution gear is on the car

and the dashpots work

the only other problem you may have is with
vacumme lines all have to be in good condition

is the small cylinder bolted to the head where the
mechanical fuel pump would go on the TM ?

the idle
I had a TP carby auto
I had mine idle set at 1000 rpm with timing at 13 degrees
and had no problems

any lower and it would stall or run rough

do you have the TP carby diagnostic chart ?

link http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=814

carby stuff half way down the first page

Hi Magna buff thanks for that its really helpful. The picture you have for the choke markings is a lot clearer than the one I photocopied from the library. I got the top mark ok but the second wasn't so easy to spot with the diagram I have. I couldn't find the carby diagnostics chart what site is it on please? My sons car is a manual and it idled about 900rpm to 1200rpm before i pulled it apart now I have had to increase idle speed to get it to run better as it is so lumpy now will back that screw out 3.5 turns as you say and see if that helps.
I am replacing all vacuum lines as they are perished a lot of them. The secondary dashpot I think has perished as it moves when the suction is held. The diaphram with the long rod and a seal on it is damaged as I had to use pliers to get it out and then I found out it wasn't in the carby kit after I was told virtually everything would be in there. I see that Nardeck sells it separately online I haven't checked out their prices as yet.
Cheers

Do the vacuum lines first, otherwise you are wasting your time trying to tune the carb.

I know about the manual procedure for adjusting the choke. (carb off the car, 25 degrees room, 24 hours to stabilise etc). It might work perfectly for a new carb, and is a good place to start when adjusting it, but from personal experience you still get richness and the choke staying on too long. Adjustment point "A" needs to be wound in (leans the choke out), on one carb I had to remove the locking screw in order to be able to turn it in enough to get it right.

replace The secondary dashpot
as you increase the idle you may have to adjust the timing (dissy)
to balance

black arrow is the factory setting jet
factory setting jet
something else if the plug is out screw the jet all the way in and back out 3 1/2 turns thats factory but may need small adjustment from there


the link is to another forum
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/carby_side_2_153-1.jpg

this chart should help you

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/fuel2_417.jpg

Thanks again. The plug is not out of the idle adjustment with the black arrow so it may be best if I leave it that way.
Is there any way to adjust the mixture control. You say to replace the secondary dashpot does that control the idle?
I have replaced about 2 metres of the vacuum tube and there is still some more to go. But I think there was about 3 places it was leaking directly to the inlet manifold one larger hose was perished with a big hole underneath.
The car idles better now and seems to rev up ok but its a bit lumpy at idle it seems to be a bit rich the mixture is there any adjustment for this? It only has a jet that is attached with a screw and little bracket it doesn't seem to have any adjustment. The car runs on quite bad now even after running the motor for a short while. I did check the cut off solenoid and it does click when attached to 12 Volts but it doesn't move externally or does it just move internally. I still need to replace the diaphram with the seal that runs through the carby at right angles to the throats and the thermal valve on the inlet manifold if I can get one. Mitsubishi don't have one.
I have adjusted the automatic choke and it seems to be working fine now I left a gap as you said and when all those points line up there is a gap and there wasn't a gap before. I think that may have been the problem all along that the auto choke was not adjusted right and it was staying on a bit when the motor was heated up and causing the motor to be too rich when starting when hot.
The adjustment at point be can be moved up or down to make the car run richer or leaner do you know is that just for the choke operation or does it affect the idle as well?
I will look at the Mitsubishi Forums site as well.
Thanks again my son is happier now that his car is at least running better now.

You mentioned about those little c clips on the carby don't lose them. Well they come with the carby gasket set but some of them don't seem to fit as well as the originals. You have to watch that the c clip doesn't break in half and stab you in the thumb as it did with me....lol

The car is idling a lot slower now than when we got it I can get it down to 850rpm whereas before it was at 1200rpm most of the time even when hot.

Re Mad max you are right I took the lock nut off as well as that was the only way to get all the marks to line up.
The choke was working perfectly. Even after a short warm up it was full open.

you have the choke working thats good

the carby has two stages

if the secondary dashpot isnt holding vaccume

the car wont accelerate to the higher speeds smoothly

the cut off solenoid moves internally.

adjust the mixture control you have to remove that plug carefully
to get to the jet its a typical needle jet under that plug

The car is not accelerating smoothly missing sometimes under load so I assume that secondary dashpot needs replacing as it is not holding a vacuum. The diaphragm inner vent valve & seal needs replacing also as the vent valve diaphragm is damaged. The thermal valve on inlet manifold needs replacing too.The car is idling better now that I have replaced most of the vacuum hoses one had a big hole underneath and 2 others were damaged. The idle is still a bit lumpy so I will take the plug out and adjust the mixture screw to see if this improves things. The car is slightly harder to start when cold so I may adjust the auto choke on a bit more to fix this. Thanks.