Hi There
Would you machine the discs on your first change if pads? I have been told by the mechanic but I am not sure this is necessary (the Verada has 38000km) - this will be the first set of pads replaced. I will check the pads and discs myself this weekend after downloding the service manual to verify a good thinkness.

thanks

Bendix ultimates on your standard factory discs are a great combo.
Machine your discs first, then put the ultimates on and you will never get warping or shuddering again.
They are a great pad that feel like factory ones but with much more bite and no brake fade (unless you track your car obviously).
And i have never had an issue with Bendix ultimates on DBA standard discs. Running them on 3 3rd gen Veradas and all are fine. Cant comment on slotted with ultimates but you honestly dont need slotted.

The stock pads from mitsubishi are rubbish and have a very low temp rating which caused your discs to overheat.

You don't HAVE to get them machined most of the time.

Normally you'll be able to tell if they need machined by running your finger over them. I've seen them so bad before that you can tell they need doing by just looking at the rotor. The front rotors on my TE are a little bit warped, might just end up getting new ones.

If you want your new pads to bed in correctly and give the best possible braking then spend the extra $$$ and get the rotors machined.

You ALWAYS get discs machined when you put new brake pads on.

You ALWAYS get discs machined when you put new brake pads on.

Much better brake performance and pad/disc life to be had if you do.

I swapped out pads just recently. Thought it would be fine.... Thought wrong. Just had em machined...

There is nothing like mating a flat surface to flat surface when it comes to brakes.

Thanks Dave and Disciple,

ALWAYS machine them, removes glaze, grooves etc and gives the pads a good chance to bed in properly

Some pad makers will actually void the warranty on the pads if rotors are not machined

There's no hard or fast rules here. If the old pads aren't glazed and don't have visible grooving or high spots or stripes, its quite ok to stick some cheap pads in and bed them in carefully, no high speed stops for the first 100 km. This is on a town car, city traffic etc. If you do track work or go for late night hoons through the hills, things are different, do by all means get the discs machined or replace them if there is any warping evident and use the Bendix Ultimates.
Standard Mitsu pads aren't crap, they are designed to give good bite when cold and low pedal pressure. Safest way to have the brakes work for the intended Magna driver profile. Of course they fade like mad when hot and wear quickly if used seriously. High performance pads don't work at their best when cold, but put up with spirited driving much better. Its all in the design compromises done when pad materials are selected.

When it comes to Brake pads, the genuine Mitsubishi ones are rubbish.
You can easily warp your discs doing just 1 stop from 100km/h with out trying too hard.
My old lady even did it a few times and she drives well, like an old lady.

The biggest cause of brake shudder is over tightening of wheels. And yes always machine the rotors if you have and doubt check the Bendix web site. They also say to machine.

TLT, I agree. Both over tightening and uneven tightening can distort the hub and rotors.

I get a wonderful shudder from the back of the car, but only if I use the handbrake to slow down from any speed. Warped drums I assume. I wonder how much it is to get the drums and discs machined off the back of a TS sedan? Anyone know? I always use a torque wrench to do up wheel nuts, especially after new tyres are put on and the tyre guys use a rattle gun. Always far too tight! Even with the standard issue wimpy wheel brace, it is too easy to tighten them up to 150 Nm, should only be 90-100 Nm. If you have experienced warped disc problems, this is worth doing. $20 torsion bar torque wrench and spark plug socket is all you need.