hey guys...


as some of you are aware my 380 was making that annoying ticking noise that made it sound like it was a diesel. just an update on this, i dropped my car off to mitsubishi this morning to get the part that is causing the ticking noise replaced under warranty. I asked what was causing the problem as im sure some of you may be experiencing the same thing as i am. they said it was the "emission control valve" that has a sticky solenoid which is causing the ticking sound you often hear while the car is idling, or in my case that bad now that you hear it when the radio is off and your taking it easy at 60 which was really starting to give me the shits.


ill keep everyone updated this afternoon when i go and pick up my car and hopefully it wont be ticking, thanks guys, kif

OK. So you have the normal injector ticking noise...

Is this other noise a lot louder? Must be if you can hear it at 60kmh.
Does it tick at a certain rate? Like cylinder firing?

Just mine has now done 118K so I want to listen out for this if it happens.

OK. So you have the normal injector ticking noise...

Is this other noise a lot louder? Must be if you can hear it at 60kmh.
Does it tick at a certain rate? Like cylinder firing?

Just mine has now done 118K so I want to listen out for this if it happens.



At first Mitsu said it was the lifters, then they had another look during a regular service and came back to me saying it was the emission control valve, it started doing it at about 70 thousand and has only gotten louder and louder now sitting on 128 thousand the part has finally come from japan and hopefully sorts the noise out

Mines just on 69000k and I've just started to notice a 'ticking' noise at idle. Sounds like the old tappett noise?

Mines just on 69000k and I've just started to notice a 'ticking' noise at idle. Sounds like the old tappett noise?


thats what i thought, for some reason i have a feeling that this afternoon when i go to pick it up, the part will have been changed and its still going to make the noise. only time will tell but i hope it doesnt fingers crossed

Yep, as I've posted elsewhere, my ticking noise is getting louder lately (now on 65,000k), and I'm very interested in your outcome kif.

Is this a warranty fix or do you have to pay for it?

KJ.

when i i took it to them they said it was warranty as they have known about the problem since it started neary 60 thousand k's ago. there is no way Mitsubishi are getting a cent from me today and they cant say that i dont service it enough cause its up there every 3 months getting another service so they actually know my car there quiet well

Mine has done 51000kms and also has a ticking sound. Sounds like a tappet noise, its a little louder after its warmed up. I am also tempted to get them to check it out before November when my warranty expires.

Mine has done 51000kms and also has a ticking sound. Sounds like a tappet noise, its a little louder after its warmed up. I am also tempted to get them to check it out before November when my warranty expires.



good idea, i think fat 380 (alex) is coming this afternoon to pick up my car and then get them to have a look at a few warranty things for him before it runs out. with the warranty i understand that its only 160 k warranty if your the original purcahser, if not its a standard 130 k warranty, correct?

I've been thinking mine has been making a different sound on idle, a lot louder etc. I will be interested to find out your outcomes.

ok guys just picked up my 380 and like mitsubishi said it was the emission control valve as posted at the top of this thread. The emission control valve was installed and since has stopped the ticking noise which im cheering about and as mentioned above it was a warranty issue so nothing was charged. Quiet happy hope this helps you guys out who are having same or similar issues. If mitsu say its not warrantable persue it cause it is. Cheers kif

Thanks mate, I'll be down my dealer like a shot tomorrow morning.

Per the service manual, as far as I can figure out, it's called the Evaporative Emission Ventilation (or Purge) Solenoid, see pages 17-77 and 17-81 to 17-84.

KJ.

So not injectors then?

thanks kif

I will be popping down to your dealer soon

no worries mecha. Chris they didnt mention anything about injectors. Kj The paper work they gave me said it was the emission control valve. Not sure if the book calls it anything else hope this helps. Mecha mcgrath mitsubishi liverpool hume highway

Thanks mate, I'll be down my dealer like a shot tomorrow morning.

Per the service manual, as far as I can figure out, it's called the Evaporative Emission Ventilation (or Purge) Solenoid, see pages 17-77 and 17-81 to 17-84.

KJ.

Before heading down to the dealer I had a good listen to the motor.

Little doubt my ticking noise is NOT coming from the Evaporative Emission Ventilation (or Purge) Solenoid.

It sounds metallic like the classic Mitsu lash adjuster noise, and seems to be coming mainly from the front bank.

But it could be leaking injector lower spacers. There is a small fuel stain around the front bank centre injector.

I'll look at pulling the front injectors tomorrow and have a look at the spacers.

KJ

Update.

Pulled the lower spacers off the front bank injectors. They were very dirty & covered in sandy grit, mainly on top but some underneath as well . Cleaned them up, put them back on, but no change, ticking noise still as loud as ever. Back to the drawing board.

KJ.

Mine is in next week to get the ticking sound looked at. I mentioned the EMC, will see what they say.

Just dropped into my local Mitsu dealer to pick up six new injector lower spacers (as I'm now convinced this is the cause of my ticking noise).

$5 each, $30 for six!!!

They're nothing but little rings of heat resistant plastic, what a rip off.

I'll stick them in when my new spark plugs arrive and let you know the result.

KJ.

They said my engine sounded normal when I had it in for service last. Looks like I will have to compare with a few others at some time. I am sure it's noisier than it used to be, but I could be imagining it too.

My 380 has done just over 70,000k and had a service 3 weeks ago and before and after the service i have noticed a ticking sound when cold... nothing was mentioned by the service guys, should i be worried???

i think i remember somewhere on here that someone had a ticking problem and he lost his engine??

mate mine started at around the same k's as did my black 380 VRX and only got louder and louder and went ticked for longer periods of time as i continued to drive it further, now just over 130K's i havent had a single issue with it and ive done about 5 thousand k's since it was done, get it looked at hope this helps mate

What does everyone's engine sound like when idling with the bonnet up, and without the plastic cover on the engine?

I wanted to check my auto fluid level, but I was quite amazed and a little concerned at the level of ticking noise I could hear.

Sounds like tappet noise/lifter noise to me.

Even my previous 96 Hyundai Coupe with twice as much mileage was pretty much silent, so this is worrying me a little.

Does anyone else hear the same thing on their engine?

It's injectors, mainly. When the engine is older it can make some lifter noise until it gets warm.

It's easier for those who had a Magna before as we know the difference. The 380 is quieter than the Verada I had.

It's not when it's cold though.

From inside the cabin I can hear a ticking noise when I leave for work for a few minutes before it warms up, but this goes away quite quickly.

But this is with the engine warm, and me standing in front of the car with the bonnet up - listening.

I don't recall any of my cars (fuel injected or not) ever sounding like this, and I don't know if it's normal (which I don't think it is) and should have it looked at.

i have the same problem 380'er...
the ticking sound coming from my engine is very loud and i cant put a finger on where its coming from... even my best mate who owns a TJ said its abnormal.

I'm sure it's a valve clearance problem, and what gets me is that this is meant to be adjusted (as necessary) in it's 75000k service - which it has just had recently.

I've got a 3rd Gen Magna with a 6g74 but the engines are so similar I believe the info's relevant anyway.

My engine developed a ticking noise I couldn't track down. It sounded just like a buggered lifter, just one.

Late last year I had replaced all the lifters at 150K as two of them had collapsed - better, the lifter noise was gone, yet the annoying ticking noise remained.

From cold the engine was quiet, as it warmed up the noise would gradually get louder, it was audible from inside the car with the window open.

I thought it was oil and tried a few different ones. The best I've tried is Pennzoil Platinum 5w-40. Still, the noise remained just not as bad as with some other oils. I'll come back to this latter.

So, so far I'd replaced all the lifters (needed, separate issue), cleaned the rocker gear oil galleries (no blockage to start with) and with regular 7.5K oil changes I had absolutely no varnish build up in the engine. All I could think of was the actual rocker gear bearing journals where worn. I decided to live with it.

Two days ago I felt like giving the old girl a bit of TLC and bought a bottle of Nulon Total Fuel System Cleaner. I've never used a fuel additive before in this car.
That day I drove ~50kms with the stuff added to a full tank. I got home and noticed something different. No tick. Gone. You've got to be kidding me.

Today I've done another ~80kms and I've been listening for the tick. It's gone. Even hot, no tick.
For nearly a year I've been chasing this and purely by chance fixed it.

I still don't know what the noise was coming from, Injector? Carbon build up on the inlet valves? I don't know.
What I do know is I put the fuel system cleaner in and the noise went away within 50kms. No other changes, that's all I did.

Coming back to the oil, The PP 5w-40 is a high detergent oil, so maybe it is carbon build up on the inlet valves that the oils been helping? That's my theory anyway.

So give it a go. For $22 it may fix your problem and save a lot of heart ache. I'm just happy to have a quiet engine again :)

I'll try that for sure man, but it's not just one tick like a singular valve or lifter. It's like I can almost hear each individual lifter "tapping" away.

I wish I could attach some audio for you guys to hear so you know what I'm talking about.

never mind.

Yep....that was mine.

It started as a tick, then after a 2000k run it became a louder tik...more like a clang.

The story was a couple of big end bearings were momentarily starved of oil, probably due to high revs and hard cornering.

Yep...that sounds right.


Anyway...the drivetrain warranty works cause i got a new motor with no tik, just a zing...:happy


Here is what they sound like when they are zinging instead of tikking...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMCnBCM4rrA

.


My 6g75 has the better 6g74 bearings and a baffled sump to help avoid that.

never mind.

Yes not standard,my engine builder use's and recomends them.

Took the day off work today and fitted the new spark plugs and the new injector lower seals.
Didn't make the slightest bit of difference to the ticking noise!
Could improve over time, but I doubt it, if the seals were the problem then new ones should have fixed it instantly.
I've now tried just about everything I can think of to fix the tick tick tick, short of replacing the lash adjusters.
I've tried heavier weight oil, various oil & fuel additives, and now new injector seals. Nothing has made any difference.
Removing & replacing the intake plenum *almost* went without a hitch.
As I was putting in the last (seventh) plenum bolt (the other six were just finger tight at this stage) I dropped the ^*&%$#%^ thing and of course it managed to find its way right into the bowels of the valley between the banks. Take out the other six bolts, lift off the plenum again, and half an hour of fishing around with a magnetised screwdriver before I rescued the bolt.
But all back together now, no left over bolts (I think I took off about 20), and runs as good as ever except for the bloody annoying tick tick tick.

KJ.

never mind.

Took the day off work today and fitted the new spark plugs and the new injector lower seals.
Didn't make the slightest bit of difference to the ticking noise!
Could improve over time, but I doubt it, if the seals were the problem then new ones should have fixed it instantly.
I've now tried just about everything I can think of to fix the tick tick tick, short of replacing the lash adjusters.
I've tried heavier weight oil, various oil & fuel additives, and now new injector seals. Nothing has made any difference.
Removing & replacing the intake plenum *almost* went without a hitch.
As I was putting in the last (seventh) plenum bolt (the other six were just finger tight at this stage) I dropped the ^*&%$#%^ thing and of course it managed to find its way right into the bowels of the valley between the banks. Take out the other six bolts, lift off the plenum again, and half an hour of fishing around with a magnetised screwdriver before I rescued the bolt.
But all back together now, no left over bolts (I think I took off about 20), and runs as good as ever except for the bloody annoying tick tick tick.

KJ.

This sounds really annoying, I don't think I've noticed this on mine (61K) and hope it doesn't start
BTW , this might be a stupid question , but did you bother with replacing the gasket when you replaced the plenum?
Cheers,
RG

This sounds really annoying, I don't think I've noticed this on mine (61K) and hope it doesn't start
BTW , this might be a stupid question , but did you bother with replacing the gasket when you replaced the plenum?
Cheers,
RG

No need to, it's a flat metal gasket and perfectly reusable.
And with the tick tick tick, what I find annoying might be perfectly OK to others. It's not really that loud, just enough to hear in the cabin when everything else is nice & quiet, it's just that I hate any extraneous rattles, buzzes, creaks, groans or ticks. One reason I've been a Magna/380 owner since the very first Magna in May 1985 - they are scewed together better than Falcadores.

KJ.

Get either a stethoscope or a piece of hose.

Wack one end on your ear and fish with the other end to locate it.

My suggestion is try the front lower section near the starter motor.


Next around the timing belt area.

If that fails, replace the motor...LOL

Just had a good listen to a hot motor with a length of garden hose. Tried all around including the rocker covers (for lash adjuster tick), and almost nothing until I got up close & personal with an injector, especially the front back middle injector which has had a fuel stain around it for a few months now. Then a plenty loud tick. So it's sure looking (sounding) like the fuel injectors, or at least one of them, (and not the seals) to me.

Any idea if noisy injector (as opposed to faulty) replacement is covered under warranty?

If not, how much for a full set of new injectors?

KJ

as i said in one of the posts earlier, mitsu said it was the emission control valve on mine which theyve replced a few under warranty....do you think yours is the same ive done a couple of thousand K's now since i had mine replaced and not the slightest tick anymore at all

as i said in one of the posts earlier, mitsu said it was the emission control valve on mine which theyve replced a few under warranty....do you think yours is the same ive done a couple of thousand K's now since i had mine replaced and not the slightest tick anymore at all

Nah, I checked this a few weeks ago and no noise from it or anywhere near it. Also confirmed by a Mitsu mech.

KJ.

umm you might want to look at the alternator coz the ware on the points of contact aren't close so the sparking sound will be loud ticking sound and picks up with idle when it goes up and down but wont notice it as much when accelerating, i replaced mine and its gone my car has done 76k

never mind.

Is an injector covered by warranty? You betcha. (especially if it has 240volts on it for a second or two)

lol

As long as you don't mind driving a five cylinder car to the dealer.

You can move that single injector to the other bank just by disconnecting it.

I would do that to see if the fault "moves".

I do recall that the fuel rail had a problem in early series where it was pulling the injectors up....they fixed it in a service.


maybe try pushing at it to see if the sound changes etc...?



Also, the ticking is a much slower tick than the engine revs me thinks.
Thats why i suggested around the timing belt area....



Is an injector covered by warranty? You betcha. (especially if it has 240volts on it for a second or two)

I reckon you could be onto something here. I've noticed several times that the injectors don't seem to fit all that tightly into the spacers, and they wobble about a bit, even after I've pushed them down hard without being stupid hard.

KJ.

OK, tried a little experiment.

The fuel rails are held on by two bolts each side/bank. Around each bolt is a black plastic spacer, obviously designed to ensure that the fuel rails & injectors sit at just the right height & angle.

Looking very closely with a torch it looked like there was a tiny gap, maybe a tenth or twentieth of a mm, between the centre front bank injector & the spacer.

So I took the front bank two spacers off and filed about a mm off the thickness/depth of each of them. The theory being that the fuel rail & injectors would now bolt up a little tighter into the injector spacers, and with any luck if I had a bit of a gap due to loosly fitting injectors this might get rid of that gap.

Surprise surprise, it didn't make any difference at all! I couldn't see any difference in the way the injectors sat in the spacers, still the same tiny gap, and the same old tick tick tick was still there loud as ever.

I don't want to file any more off the rail spacers, could cause problems.

Back to the drawing board once again!

KJ.

It is normal for the injectors to swivel around fairly freely even when clamped down by the fuel rail.

never mind.

Anyone else had the Emission control valve fixed besides kif380? Mines going in on Thursday to be checked. I told them about this and they seemed to know about it being done on other 380's! They did suggest a different oil first to make sure, but somehow I think this might be just a ploy to get a service when it isn't needed? The oil was done by Mitsubishi service 5,000km ago and still looks really clean? Isn't due again until 120,000km. I'm on 110,000 now. Still if it is something they are testing to find out then that cost should be borne by them, don't you think? I didn't notice the ticking when I got the car, but I filled it with 98ron and within a few days it appeared? Then again the more I think about it perhaps I was too busy enjoying the performance to notice the ticking!!

sounds like they want a service out of you mate. They tried it with mine, just after servicing and i made the service manager stand at my car for a few mins after they serviced it. It started doing it. I told them to take it back in the work shop and fix it, which they did straight away as they already had the part in stock they just wanted to be sure. So tell them to skip the service and to look at the emission control valve instead. I've probably done 8 thousand k's since it was replaced and can't hear any ticking what so ever. All the best mate

Any idea how much this part costs? and is it easy to replace?

Thanks for the extra insight kif380. I kind of made up my mind already that I wasn't interested in changing the oil. Besides a couple of the guys from the workshop were the ones that knew what I was on about when I mentioned the emission control valve! Not sure if the manger or the supervisor were that happy though!! I will use your history as the point of reference. Still haven't heard if anyone else in here has had it done yet?

Any idea how much this part costs? and is it easy to replace?

nothing at all its covered under warranty. And if they say its not argue the point.

Well put the car in today. They ordered the drivers seat shield cover (comes tomorrow). Gave it a pressure check, as I was concerned about coolant loss. Everything came up fine there! When it came to the ticking they said they checked everything and it is just the injectors? Pretty sure kif380 said they tried this one on him? Not sure if it was my imagination or not, but the car didn't seem to have quite the same performance? The really odd thing was that they asked if I could leave the car overnight so they could put the shield cover on first thing in the morning? Thing is it only takes about a minute to remove and replace?

My 380 has done about 69k and now randomly sounds like my old 93 verada! And the ticking noise once got faster and faster then went away while idling. Might ask them next time i'm in.

Also has anyone noticed a knocking noise coming from the front when you first take off. ie the first 20m of driving. sounds like when my old verada used to have a sticky speedo.

Well put the car in again on Monday after getting the dreaded engine light on the way home on Sunday? Turned out to be the injector seals! They replaced them all and so good so far! The ticking is considerably less, in fact I would say that it is just normal injector noise now. Doesn't do that early morning diesel rattle now!! Touch wood the issues are gone!

Also has anyone noticed a knocking noise coming from the front when you first take off. ie the first 20m of driving.

YES!

anyone else?

YES!

anyone else?



Mine used to...but new motor and it went away.

My ticking noise went away after the 100/105 thousand km service, even then my ticking wasnt that bad.

bahaha..so the car regenerates? that is genius xD.

I also get that knocking noise in the front... I think its the exhaust system creaking a wee bit as it warms up really quickly.

That tick though is driving me insane (think of it as the drumming that the master can hear in doctor who. I know geeky reference, but hey), mitsu told me to change the oil and 'monitor the situation', it went away for a bit but now its back a little worse than before.

I think Ill mention the Emissions control valve next time I call them up.

My 380 has done about 69k and now randomly sounds like my old 93 verada! And the ticking noise once got faster and faster then went away while idling. Might ask them next time i'm in.

Also has anyone noticed a knocking noise coming from the front when you first take off. ie the first 20m of driving. sounds like when my old verada used to have a sticky speedo.


Possible that its worn out front sway bar bushes. Common 380 problem and I found that the knocking noise was worst in the first first few hundred metres, especially in winter, before it faded a bit. Maybe due to some engine heat getting into the sway bar. I had a few problems with my extractors knocking against each other under the motor (now fixed), and the funny thing was that it was worst first thing on cold mornings, then as the car warmed up it gradually went away. I would have thought that the pipes would have expanded as they got hotter and the knocking/rattling would have got worse, but it seems that the pipes got smaller as they got hotter and separated enough to stop knocking against each other. Wierd, I can't explain it, but it might just have something to do with your knocking noise.

KJ.

The ticking is back and of Saturday night so is the engine light! Took it in today and they said the injectors have a build up of soot? They have to have the car for a couple of days so they can send it to a specialist! They are giving me a loaner for those days.
I guess this is the right time to press home the emission control valve check?

The ticking is back and of Saturday night so is the engine light! Took it in today and they said the injectors have a build up of soot? They have to have the car for a couple of days so they can send it to a specialist! They are giving me a loaner for those days.
I guess this is the right time to press home the emission control valve check?

CEL and ticking...doesnt sound good. Blackstar had the same issue before his engine died.

Not want I want to hear right now Braedz, but I've only had the car since June 10 so it is still under statutory (3mth) dealer warranty and at 110,00km also have some new car as well! The line was this is not normally under warranty but...

Not want I want to hear right now Braedz, but I've only had the car since June 10 so it is still under statutory (3mth) dealer warranty and at 110,00km also have some new car as well! The line was this is not normally under warranty but...

If something bad does happen, they will replace the whole engine under warranty. Its very unlikely that this is the same issue, but I thought I would give you a heads up anyway.

Not want I want to hear right now Braedz, but I've only had the car since June 10 so it is still under statutory (3mth) dealer warranty and at 110,00km also have some new car as well! The line was this is not normally under warranty but...

Whereabouts in VIC are you NAVAAR? If you are anywhere near box hill, you are are welcome to drop by and use my scanner to see what the CEL is complaining about for your own peace of mind (in case you get concerned that the dealer is feeding you BS). Should only take 5 minutes

Hey rgoldsmith, thanks for the offer mate, but I am in Cranbourne North! I think I need to invest in a scanner myself! Can't see the benefit of them lying to me as it seems the warranty covers it? Car doesn't go in until next Monday so off to Supercheap

Gee Braedz, a new engine would be a nice option!!!

Gee Braedz, a new engine would be a nice option!!!


As long as you have time...plenty of time....and a spare car to get around in.

Mine took 9 weeks to have diagnosed/approved/replaced.

And....it is a short motor...they have to swap the original heads, oil pump, sump,timing belt...etc etc.


But....it does feel like a nice new car again when you get all that compression back after a couple of years..

It's amazing how subtle the performance goes down with even 50k kilometres on the clock.

Hey rgoldsmith, thanks for the offer mate, but I am in Cranbourne North! I think I need to invest in a scanner myself! Can't see the benefit of them lying to me as it seems the warranty covers it? Car doesn't go in until next Monday so off to Supercheap

Yeh , a little bit far I suppose. If you seriously do want to get one , then check this thread. http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80732 this is the one I use, and only cost about $30

Hey Blackstar, I don't think I'm facing the same problem that you had (touch wood). The engine's ticking has definitely been worsening though, but still not outrageous! I'm sure when I got the car it was pretty quiet, but from day one I've been using 98RON. Hey if I did need a motor do you reckon they'd throw in a body like your car for the inconvenience! lol

Hey Blackstar, I don't think I'm facing the same problem that you had (touch wood). The engine's ticking has definitely been worsening though, but still not outrageous! I'm sure when I got the car it was pretty quiet, but from day one I've been using 98RON. Hey if I did need a motor do you reckon they'd throw in a body like yours for the inconvenience! lol


The ticking on mine was crankshaft bearings...worse when cold for the first few minutes.
Hopefully yours isnt as serious.

You wouldnt want my body mate...it's alcohol abused and torn in pieces by wild women ripping my T shirt off....:)

Crankshaft bearings! Hope thats not what this is, as it certainly is worse first thing in the morning heading off to work. Even has a little bit of a dash/panel vibration on take off. This issue arrived not long after the ticking seemed to get louder!

Crankshaft bearings! Hope thats not what this is, as it certainly is worse first thing in the morning heading off to work. Even has a little bit of a dash/panel vibration on take off. This issue arrived not long after the ticking seemed to get louder!

What are the last 6 digits of your VIN number out of interest?

019473

019473

Something to think about?....the one that had the engine fail on me was 20562....(made in the same month as yours.)

Been meaning to ask, did your engine light come on prior and during your issues?

Been meaning to ask, did your engine light come on prior and during your issues?

It flashed and flashed like a fast blinking indicator, then the oil light came on and I hit the brakes.

It flashed and flashed like a fast blinking indicator, then the oil light came on and I hit the brakes.

Yep, the CEL coming on and glowing steady usually means 'minor issue, often emissions related, take it to a dealer & get it checked', but a flashing CEL means 'Houston we have a problem, pull over immediately, turn engine off and call for help'.

Was browsing through the 380 workshop manual yesterday when I came across some interesting pages about noisy lash adjusters and a procedure to bleed them of air and eliminate the noise.

Air can get into the lash adjuster high pressure chambers and cause a ticking noise, due to one of three things - oil level too low, oil level too high, or old dirty oil.

Positive I've never been guilty of any of these crimes with my 380, but what the hey, worth a try, this could finally be the solution to my annoying ticking noise!

So I gave it a burl, and guess what?

No effing difference, ticking noise still there and as annoying as ever!

But it might just help someone else get rid of their noise.

I've copied the relevant pages from the manual and turned them into jpegs:

http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af28/kj380/380lashadjusterbleedprocedurepage1.jpg

http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af28/kj380/380lashadjusterbleedprocedurepage2.jpg

http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af28/kj380/380lashadjusterbleedprocedurepage3.jpg

The last one is the procedure I followed - 15 seconds of gradually increasing the revs to 3,000, then 15 seconds of idle, then 15 seconds of gradually increasing the revs to 3,000 then 15 seconds of idle, and so on and so on.

I repeated it 35 times, then let it idle for 3 minutes.

No change, back to the drawing board yet again, but as I say above it might just help someone else.

Had the annoying ticking noise more or less for the whole time i've had the 380, approx 60000 km,and was getting progressively louder. At the 135000 service told the service guy i wanted it sorted out as this was the second time i had mentioned it. Had to tell him it might be the emmision control valve,they had no idea.They ordered a ECV replaced it 3 weeks later,and now i have no more ticking noise,whats more they did it for free even thought the car was out of warranty,because i had told them about the noise at the previous service. Are your possitive it isn't the emission control valve.

Had the annoying ticking noise more or less for the whole time i've had the 380, approx 60000 km,and was getting progressively louder. At the 135000 service told the service guy i wanted it sorted out as this was the second time i had mentioned it. Had to tell him it might be the emmision control valve,they had no idea.They ordered a ECV replaced it 3 weeks later,and now i have no more ticking noise,whats more they did it for free even thought the car was out of warranty,because i had told them about the noise at the previous service. Are your possitive it isn't the emission control valve.

Yep, def not the ECV, one of the first things I checked. It's quiet as a mouse and always has been.

Dropped in at my local Mitsu dealer this morning for a part, and out of curiosity asked the bloke on the counter for a quote on six new injectors (seeing as this is the only thing left that I think could be the cause of my ticking noise).

You'll never believe the price he quoted me.

$321 each. That's right, not for the set of six, but each!

For six that's damn near the cost of a compete new motor. Gotta be a mistake, must be the price for the set of six.

Think I'll post up a 'wanted to buy' thread and see what prices are on offer.

Dropped in at my local Mitsu dealer this morning for a part, and out of curiosity asked the bloke on the counter for a quote on six new injectors (seeing as this is the only thing left that I think could be the cause of my ticking noise).

You'll never believe the price he quoted me.

$321 each. That's right, not for the set of six, but each!

For six that's damn near the cost of a compete new motor. Gotta be a mistake, must be the price for the set of six.

Think I'll post up a 'wanted to buy' thread and see what prices are on offer.

I have a full set on the shelf mate.

I was in the process of buying used 380 but wouldn't accept delivery unless the fixed a ticking problem. They advised me that this ticking problem is not unusual. The problem component is the fuel return pulsator. This component is at rear of motor (follow rubber pipe from top of inlet "manifold") When it ticks, you can feel in your hand, and if you twist or tug component it will stop. I did this and it hasn't come back... The Salesman was surprised...and happy. Maybe fuel type or the additive in previous posts cleaned this component....Hopefully it may help othe members.Good Luck

Dunno what it is but it isn't a fuel return coz the 380 doesn't have one. It has a variable speed pump that only pumps when it has demand.

I don't know what the unit is , but its does the ticking and you can feel it tick in you hot little hands.....

Had the lifter tick in my VRX... I was all like "It's just hit 225,000km and the lifters are ticking... are you ****ing serious!"

Anyhow last oil change just used Castrol Magnatec (Mainly cause it has magna in it) and also put in Nulon Performance Engine Treatment and Nulon Noisy Lifter Fluid... now engine runs smooth, quiet and flawless... just fyi

I don't know what the unit is , but its does the ticking and you can feel it tick in you hot little hands.....

See post #12 in this thread.

It's called the Evaporative Emission Ventilation (or Purge) Solenoid, see pages 17-77 and 17-81 to 17-84 of the workshop manual.

Just took your hint and had a feel of the rubber tube running from it to the throttle body, and yes, quite a strong throb. But almost no noise coming from the valve or the tube. After all these months of mucking about it just might be the source of the ticking noise I can hear in the cabin, the frequency seems about right. Maybe it's just with the bonnet up the metallic lash adjuster noise drowns it out? And being close to the firewall the slight throbbing becomes a noise which is transferred into the cabin?
Pulled the rubber tube off but of course the engine immediately ran like shite, so that test proved nothing. Will run some more tests.

Edit - Just ran some more tests, fiddled with the various rubber tubes running from the throttle body through to the charcoal cannister, made no difference. Pulled the tube off the throttle body and bunged up the end of it (and blocked off the TB nipple it connects to, otherwise the TB sucks in air through it and engine runs crap). This worked as far as making the EEVS (Evaporative Emission Ventilation System) inoperative, and only the faintest throb from the solenoid. But no difference at all to the tick tick tick audible in the cabin.
So I don't think I have a crook EEV solenoid, back to the drawing board yet again!

See post #12 in this thread.

It's called the Evaporative Emission Ventilation (or Purge) Solenoid, see pages 17-77 and 17-81 to 17-84 of the workshop manual.

Just took your hint and had a feel of the rubber tube running from it to the throttle body, and yes, quite a strong throb. But almost no noise coming from the valve or the tube. After all these months of mucking about it just might be the source of the ticking noise I can hear in the cabin, the frequency seems about right. Maybe it's just with the bonnet up the metallic lash adjuster noise drowns it out? And being close to the firewall the slight throbbing becomes a noise which is transferred into the cabin?
Pulled the rubber tube off but of course the engine immediately ran like shite, so that test proved nothing. Will run some more tests.

Edit - Just ran some more tests, fiddled with the various rubber tubes running from the throttle body through to the charcoal cannister, made no difference. Pulled the tube off the throttle body and bunged up the end of it (and blocked off the TB nipple it connects to, otherwise the TB sucks in air through it and engine runs crap). This worked as far as making the EEVS (Evaporative Emission Ventilation System) inoperative, and only the faintest throb from the solenoid. But no difference at all to the tick tick tick audible in the cabin.
So I don't think I have a crook EEV solenoid, back to the drawing board yet again!


Definately keep us informed, my 380 has just passed 100k, and I swear I can hear the same noise you guys are talking about.

Mine has the ticking noise at idle, done 72,000, watching this thread with interest

Mine has done it since I have had it from 69k and I was told it was the injectors but it was normal. It goes away as soon as it warms up though.

Mine has done it since I have had it from 69k and I was told it was the injectors but it was normal. It goes away as soon as it warms up though.

Warm, cold, middling, makes no difference with my noise, it's constant.
But can only hear it at idle, anything above idle and it's drowned out by exhaust/intake/road/wind noise.

Sounds like a different critter to mine.

My series 2 with 78k on it has just started to develop a top end unusual ticking sound and this about a week after i suspected my economy went bad by a approx 1ltrfor every 100klm's.

Kif, did your fuel economy suffer about the same as mine when you had your ECV issue.

MIne is finally getting the window reg and drivers door mirror replaced next Tuesday 24th under warranty and will mention the noise for them to check out.

Cheers Steve

Hey mate. I dont recall much of a difference in fuel consumption, though having said that I did over 20 thousand k's with mine ticking due to the part having to come from Japan then Mitsu ****ing up and fitting it to the wrong silver 380 leaving me to wait a further 2 months or so for next shipment so by the time I got mine finally replaced I would have been used to the increase of fuel consumption, if any and probably not have noticed it.

Fitted to the wrong car, are you kidding ? LOL. Talk about spewing.

I will make sure the other half mentions it to them when she takes it in next week and ask them to make a note of it.

The other thing i noticed was the considerable amount of darkening the engine oil has done in the last few weeks, went from a nice clearish color to quite a lot darker for a not a lot of klm's maybe a 1k or so.

Thank you for the reply Kif and have a great weekend.

oil going dark is not a valid representation of a problem. Its what oil does
no noise from my ECV after changing it

So these ECV's are a common problem are they ?.

What do they actually do & can they be disconnected??? Mines ticking a bit too ....

What do they actually do & can they be disconnected??? Mines ticking a bit too ....

The ECV or Emission Control Valve is also known as the Purge Solenoid.

It controls recirculation of fuel tank vapours from the charcoal cannister into the inlet manifold.

It's a doddle to replace (I've replaced mine twice in my never ending and fruitless hunt to cure my engine ticking noise!), I think they're around $90 new from a stealership or $50 to $60 from a wreckers. Problem is with one from a wreckers it's just as likely as your existing one to be faulty & noisy.

Easiest way to disconnect it is to pull the wiring plug on it, a 10 second job.

That's also the easiest way to check if it is the cause of any ticking noise. Pull the plug & the noise goes away = problem detected, pull the plug & no change = keep looking for the noise.

If it is faulty & making a ticking noise it's quite a loud & distinctive metallic tick, and not the same noise as the classic Mitsu lash adjuster noise.

Edit - just had a brainwave Fooz!

With your Sprintex S/C and the different intake manifold I'm guessing you no longer have this ECV anyway?

Can't tell for sure looking at the pics on the first page of your "Members Machines" thread, but I cant see it.

Edit #2 - pic added of the page from the workshop manual:

http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af28/kj380/380EECSpage1.jpg

deleted....

Edit - just had a brainwave Fooz!

With your Sprintex S/C and the different intake manifold I'm guessing you no longer have this ECV anyway?

Can't tell for sure looking at the pics on the first page of your "Members Machines" thread, but I cant see it.

Edit #2 - pic added of the page from the workshop manual:



I'm pretty sure I still have that connection to the Sprintex manifold but will check it out.

Any downside to just unplugging the electrical connection? Maybe another CEL I can add to my ever growing collection lol

I'm pretty sure I still have that connection to the Sprintex manifold but will check it out.

Any downside to just unplugging the electrical connection? Maybe another CEL I can add to my ever growing collection lol

I doubt there is a downside, but best to check with a mechanic.

I doubt there is a downside, but best to check with a mechanic.

Best to just unplug it & see what happens me thinks :D

Best to just unplug it & see what happens me thinks :D

Don't blame me if you unplug it & it runs like shite!

Seriously, I think it's possible that unplugging it might stuff up the idle.

Page 17-81 of the workshop manual says:

When the engine coolant temperature is low or when
the intake air quantity is small (when the engine is at
idle, for example), the Engine-ECU brings the EVAP
purge solenoid into the OFF state to shut off the fuel
vapor flow to the intake manifold plenum. This
ensures driveability when the engine is cold or running
under low load and also stabilizes the emission
level.

So with the electrical connector unplugged, does the valve default to the "on" or "off" state?

I dunno, but if the default state is "on" (ie "open") then it might screw up the cold running and/or the idle.

No harm though in giving it a try for a few minutes, takes 10 seconds to plug it back in!

Don't blame me if you unplug it & it runs like shite!

Seriously, I think it's possible that unplugging it might stuff up the idle.

Page 17-81 of the workshop manual says:

When the engine coolant temperature is low or when
the intake air quantity is small (when the engine is at
idle, for example), the Engine-ECU brings the EVAP
purge solenoid into the OFF state to shut off the fuel
vapor flow to the intake manifold plenum. This
ensures driveability when the engine is cold or running
under low load and also stabilizes the emission
level.

So with the electrical connector unplugged, does the valve default to the "on" or "off" state?

I dunno, but if the default state is "on" (ie "open") then it might screw up the cold running and/or the idle.

No harm though in giving it a try for a few minutes, takes 10 seconds to plug it back in!

Hmmm well I'll try it as my idle is shite when it warms up anyway! My idle surges sometimes up to about 1800 rpm. This might actually fix it :) ..... Possibly the problem the whole time??

So with the electrical connector unplugged, does the valve default to the "on" or "off" state?

I dunno, but if the default state is "on" (ie "open") then it might screw up the cold running and/or the idle.

No harm though in giving it a try for a few minutes, takes 10 seconds to plug it back in!

If you've replaced yours a few times already does that mean you have some rattly ones to experiment with?

If you've replaced yours a few times already does that mean you have some rattly ones to experiment with?

Nah, I bought a second hand one off a member, swapped it with my original, and it made no difference.

That and other tests (such as disconnecting the electrical connector) proved to me that my ticking noise was not caused by my purge valve, and there was nothing wrong with my valve.

I then gave my original valve to Dan (D-VAN) to put on his 'new' 380, and it cured his ticking noise.

So if you're looking for a known noisy one to play with, Dan might still have his.

KJ.

Best to just unplug it & see what happens me thinks :D

Well unplugged the loom off this stupid little ticking valve a couple of weeks back & no noticble difference in anyway except no ticking!!

My recommended fix for a ticking valve is just unplug it lol

I too have this issue and so far I've unplugged the cable.
I'll see how it runs for a week or two and then plug it back in to see if that resolves it.

Fingers crossed that it works (: ill keep you posted

I too have this issue and so far I've unplugged the cable.
I'll see how it runs for a week or two and then plug it back in to see if that resolves it.

Fingers crossed that it works (: ill keep you posted

Ok forgot about this ..... So a week short of two months mines now has been unplugged & absolutely no problems at all. This little valve probably serves a purpose but as far as I'm concerned it's staying unplugged permanently!!

Unplugging the valve probably leaves it in the closed position. Eventually the carbon in the cannister will be saturated from absorbing fumes from the petrol tank and raw petrol will come out of the overflow. Keep a nose on your engine bay, if you smell petrol plug the solenoid back in to the purge the system.

Unplugging the valve probably leaves it in the closed position. Eventually the carbon in the cannister will be saturated from absorbing fumes from the petrol tank and raw petrol will come out of the overflow. Keep a nose on your engine bay, if you smell petrol plug the solenoid back in to the purge the system.

I won't be able to smell it from the fuel pouring out the exhaust on idle from the oversized injectors :P

I won't be able to smell it from the fuel pouring out the exhaust on idle from the oversized injectors :P

Not a problem then. lol

Ok so i unplugged it, went for a little drive. No noise at all. Come home turn it off and then an hour later (maybe) i go back in the car and the CEL is on. Any ideas? =/ I plugged it back in, sounds back but CEL is still on.

Ok so i unplugged it, went for a little drive. No noise at all. Come home turn it off and then an hour later (maybe) i go back in the car and the CEL is on. Any ideas? =/ I plugged it back in, sounds back but CEL is still on.

Yeah, unplugging it gives a CEL. Can't remember the code, but it was something like P0444 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Circuit Open.

Harmless really, just telling you the solenoid isn't working.

The CEL will go away after a 100k or so.

i also have knocking noise coming from front left i think first 20 metres also. Usually when car been sitting a while always first thing in morning. If i accelerate fairly hard no noise unless i cant hear over Berklee and 90mm intake. As Fantaysia mentioned on page 6.

i also have knocking noise coming from front left i think first 20 metres also. Usually when car been sitting a while always first thing in morning. If i accelerate fairly hard no noise unless i cant hear over Berklee and 90mm intake. As Fantaysia mentioned on page 6.

If you get this noise, kill the motor and restart, if no noise then is the pre tensioner

Madmagna is this pre tensioner to do with timing belt? I turned motor off restarted NO Noise. Might be worth trip to Dealer as still under factory warranty has done 85000 kms

cheers

Andrew

September last year Heidelberg Mitsubishi "replaced the valve". The ticking noise never went away so I started thinking the noise I was hearing was just normal injector noise or something.. this morning I decided to try unplugging it... No noise whatsoever! Those snakes! They never replaced it in the first place.. I'm going to let loose on them tomorrow!

Mines been unplugged for agss since I posted way back with no issues, but apparantly a CEL comes up but I have so many I can just add that one to my collection :P

Hey Fooz , looking at your avatar have you had your roof sprayed? Any pics?

Hey Fooz , looking at your avatar have you had your roof sprayed? Any pics?

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66504&page=85

EDIT: or are you trolling :S lol cant tell.

No. But thanks for the link

No. But thanks for the link
lol have you been living under a rock? :P

Yes, i had a knock in my front left wheel when i took off of a morning in first 20metres, took it to mitsubishi several times and they kept shrugging it off. Finally they discovered it was the ABS module, they replaced it and said it is a common problem.
My 380 has done about 69k and now randomly sounds like my old 93 verada! And the ticking noise once got faster and faster then went away while idling. Might ask them next time i'm in.

Also has anyone noticed a knocking noise coming from the front when you first take off. ie the first 20m of driving. sounds like when my old verada used to have a sticky speedo.

ABS Module needs replacing quite possibly.

Ive noticed too that I have a rattling, ticking noise. It happens on start up and lasts for a few minutes until warm. But ONLY does the noise on acceleration. Wont do it on idle or deceleration.

If was an older car car it would be pinking on acceleration where timing too far advanced