I called madmagna before about this so he has helped, Ended up with me breaking off one of those large bolts at the back into the block from the bottom of the sump *hi-fives himself for ****ing it up again*

Anyhoo, this has been stuck down GOOD, and there is little to no room to even get a paint scraper wedged in between the two surfaces to try and prise them apart.

I need to know what else I can do to get the god damn sump off without
1) Breaking something
2) setting fire to myself somehow
3) Resorting to an axe.

Since I don't need it off at this very minute, I'd rather gather some ideas first before just going balls in.

Any suggestions???

Tuffy.

THe stencil out line of the bottom of the block doesnt quite line up with the outline of the sump. So what you end up with is little nodules, usually 1 on each side, where from above you can put a centre punch and hammer down. The tabs/nodules will be about half the size of a 5cent piece hard to see but should be there, they have been on every other car ive tinkered with.

this is to stop you haveing to try and drive somethign in from side on. Usually it will open them up enough to get a flat head in there and you can lever and pull the gasket goop apart as you go.

Have fun

If you don't want it back you could drill some holes in it and make something to grab onto. Some kind of suction thing might do it, one of the suction cups people use to lift glass.

Better yet, file a screwdriver flatish, bend the end of it and use it as a prying tool.

your removing the upper sump correct? (going by the bolt you broke off) its fairly strong so get a 4x2 and place it on the side and give it fairly strong belts with a heavy hammer, using the least force possible to shift it. that bolt you broke off, get an easyout, drill the right size hole in the bolt and it will come free. I love easyouts!! The other way to shift the sump is to get a plasterers scraper, the flat wide ones, and tap it into the side of the join, but BE CAREFUL!! lol

yeah got a paint scraper but there is not enough room to fit that + hammer + leverage on hammer.
Lynel, will have a look mate.

a really big hammer??

Make sure you have all the bolts out including the 4 14mm headed ones into the gearbox. At the rear of the sump on the ears there are 10x1.25 threaded holes on either side. get a bolt and wind it in this will lift the sump away from the block with out damage. Hope this helps.

Cheers Dave

Make sure you have all the bolts out including the 4 14mm headed ones into the gearbox. At the rear of the sump on the ears there are 10x1.25 threaded holes on either side. get a bolt and wind it in this will lift the sump away from the block with out damage. Hope this helps.

Cheers Dave

Are you SURE it's the same on the 74 DOHC? Cause i did that on one bolt and it snapped :D so now I have the thread still in the block, yay. Didn't seem to do anything when i turned it, just.....break....so yeah need to still find how to get it off.....Might just persist with wegding something in between both surfaces.

Make sure you have all the bolts out including the 4 14mm headed ones into the gearbox. At the rear of the sump on the ears there are 10x1.25 threaded holes on either side. get a bolt and wind it in this will lift the sump away from the block with out damage. Hope this helps.

Cheers Dave

This is what I told Paul over the phone, he needs to ensure that all of the bolts are out, including the 2 very long ones at the back, just in near the rear of the sump there are the holes, they are actually 8x1.25 from memort, are very close to the sump so dont try and use ones with large flanges on them as they will not go in

DONT hit the sump or lever it as these tend to break reasonably easily

Paul, I think you must be looking at the wrong place mate as the bole does NOT go into the block, it goes and threads into the sump itself, not into the block

Mal!
I have a spare 3.5L DOHC sump on the floor, so i can use it as reference....The long bolts at the back pop up above the surface of the sump (i.e. the thread sticks up above it) so I was assuming it screwed into the block.

I tightened them, and one snapped clean off. So....****....no idea where it is now.
There are two locating pins at the back so hitting it wont do much so thinking i'm gonna have to slowly get in there with a very shapr thin knife or blade of sorts

So the broken bolt has thread in both the sump and block?

So the broken bolt has thread in both the sump and block?

As far as I can tell it goes into the block as on my spare 3.5L sump I put the bolts in it and the thread poked out above the top, I will get a picture later to explain but basically, Fail.

;1243561']Mal!
I have a spare 3.5L DOHC sump on the floor, so i can use it as reference....The long bolts at the back pop up above the surface of the sump (i.e. the thread sticks up above it) so I was assuming it screwed into the block.

I tightened them, and one snapped clean off. So....****....no idea where it is now.
There are two locating pins at the back so hitting it wont do much so thinking i'm gonna have to slowly get in there with a very shapr thin knife or blade of sorts

It is not the 2 long bolts we are talking about, these need to come out

Near the pins there are 2 threads in the sump, one on each side, these are what is used for the removal of the sump

Get a pair of bolts into the right holes, the ones threaded into the sump. They are easy to identify as they are the only threaded ones and have solid block material behind them, probe with a small screwdriver to find out. Put some tension on them (not much, its only alloy, disc hubs have the same type of setup to pull them off if stubborn), then start slicing at the joint sealant with a sharp knife. Increase the tension as the gap opens up. Good luck and don't break anything (else)!