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Speaking from 2nd gen V6 point of view here, But it can be done without the engine being removed for sure.
take out driveshafts and obviously anything else that needs to come off and with a jack underneath (subframes removed) you can slide the tranny off and lower the jack. Again only from a 2nd gen V6 POV here But I don't see why it would be any different

Honestly taking out the engine from the top is 3 hours work max with an engine crane.

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I did my TL Magna by way of removing the drive shafts, unhooking a few sensors, unbolting the gearbox and dropping it out.. partially lifted with a hoist but supported the engine with a crane (since discovered an over the top engine support, probably would have made it easier by way of getting the car further off the ground)

Common way of doing clutches... was definitely a bit fiddly/tight but doable.. presume its no different on the 380.. if your happy to unplug all the hoses though its probably easier to drop the whole engine & frame I suspect in terms of less chance of damaging things/tight spaces/fiddlyness.

Assuming the 380 is similar to the 3rd Gens, you won't be able to lift the drivetrain out through the top, it has to go out underneath.

For a 3rd Gen, I used blocks under the front of the car (since the front wheels and drive shafts need to come off) to give sufficient clearance and also put blocks under the engine (when the transmission is removed, the engine is only held in by a single mount on the drivers side). I then used an engine crane from above to hold the transmission whilst it was unbolted etc and then lower it down and pull it out from under the car. Replacing the transmission was just the reverse process.

In hindsight, I would probably remove the engine and tranny together as there were quite a few difficult to reach bolts.

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You are thinking manual transmission, on an auto you unbolt the torque converter from the drive plate before you unbolt the box, gearbox needs to move off the dowels rather than a spline. A couple of cm should do it. If, like the second gen 2.6 manual, you don't have enough clearance between the box and the body work, you can remove the engine mount furthest from the gearbox and jack that end up, to get clearance. Watch out for any plugs, sockets on the gearbox that they don't catch on the body work. I had to lower the box (TS, 2.6 manual) to the ground and slide it from under the car because there was no room to go up. The 380 might be different. If you leave the bonnet on it will def be easier to lower the box.

Assuming the 380 is similar to the 3rd Gens, you won't be able to lift the drivetrain out through the top, it has to go out underneath.

For a 3rd Gen, I used blocks under the front of the car (since the front wheels and drive shafts need to come off) to give sufficient clearance and also put blocks under the engine (when the transmission is removed, the engine is only held in by a single mount on the drivers side). I then used an engine crane from above to hold the transmission whilst it was unbolted etc and then lower it down and pull it out from under the car. Replacing the transmission was just the reverse process.

In hindsight, I would probably remove the engine and tranny together as there were quite a few difficult to reach bolts.

Funny that as last time we were at Madmagna's house he removed Cymbermonkeys engine and transmission out the top, together, in a little over an hour.

In the factory the whole drivetrain gets inserted from below, in service it comes out the top. The gearbox by itself comes out from underneath. Everyone agreed on that?

3 people, some knowing what they are doing, 1 hour sounds about right. 1 person, 3 hours sounds good too. But who said it had to be a race? lol

;1244236']Funny that as last time we were at Madmagna's house he removed Cymbermonkeys engine and transmission out the top, together, in a little over an hour.

Yes, but he removed/ replaced my engine with the transmission still in the car. Both are possible.

Yes, but he removed/ replaced my engine with the transmission still in the car. Both are possible.

Exactly right, Just saying that both connected can 100% come out through the top :D

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I have had a look at the engine bay a few times and it *looks* like it wouldn't be that hard. I removed the gearbox of a GTi-R with the motor in (and transfer case and centre diff still attached to gearbox) so the 380 looks 100 times easier than that.

Good luck!

When you pull the box away from the motor to clear the shaft it will end up partly under the offside frame so going out underneath is the sensible way to go.
Putting a 3rd gen box back in, you push the torque convertor as far into the bell housing as possible, line the box up with the shaft and it all seems to slide on quite well with a little bit of jiggling and pushing. Helps to make sure the box is held level with the engine. I found the instructions in the workshop manual were fairly easy to follow, but didn't take any photos. Perhaps you could take some when you do your 380 as I'm not sure many have taken a 380 box out.