Hey all,

Yesterday i went WOT through 1st,2nd and 3rd then clutch in and on the brake pretty hard but then i lost alot of braking power and had no power steering so i look down at the dash to realise the engine had died,i was able to restart it straight away while rolling.

The car has been converted to manual however due to already having an SKR flash tune on the auto ECU i havn't changed it to a manual.

So my question is how can i fix this problem without changing the ECU?

My stock standard TS 2.6 manual does that too, but I blame the ISC for being too slow to establish idle rpm when you clutch in and back off the throttle after high rpm. Try it with less rpm/throttle.

Mate, it may have been a once off, this can happen when you are on full noise and then put your foot on the clutch, manual will be more likely to do this due to the gear box no longer driving the engine

The problem with a full WOT take off and then hit the clutch, the engine and ecu do not have time to adjust to the idle condition, is also very bad from high revs WOT back to idle

Just one thing, is a REALLY bad practice also, is not good for your drivetrain as well as the fact that the engine helps brake the car (slow it down)

Thanks Mal i never realised driving like that was bad for the engine.

If you nail the brakes & lock the fronts before hitting the clutch, you could also stop the engine dead. Going from 6000rpm to zero could put too much stress on components.
This happened in one of my first cars and some 'key' in the crankshaft to cam belt area broke off and my valve train stopped spinning :( Luckily it was a non-interference engine, but it still cost over $1k for engine repairs. very sad.

In future, instead of dropping the clutch, just drop it into 5th gear.

Thread mine i know but this is still happening and even though i leave it in gear on deacceleration as suggested eventually i have to clutch in in order to change gears to take a corner,i think i may have found a solution it's call a HKS EIDS which is effectively a airflow meter voltage clamp.

From the HKS website http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=2175
''The HKS EIDS has been developed to buffer dramatic airflow meter signal fluctuations. By buffering these fluctuations the EIDS prevents engine stalling or stumbling associated with sudden imbalances in air/fuel ratio of airflow meter-equipped vehicles that utilize atmosphere venting blow-off valves.''

I know its designed for use on turbo cars but the basic function of it seems like it could work to fix the problem on mine.

Thoughts??

mate, your car has a fault.. i wouldnt be attempting to fit any aftermarket product to fix a fault in your car.. fix the actual problem

that hks device is for cars with air flow metres and externally venting blow off valves.. problem its trying to fix is that the air flow meter is registering x amount of air but then the blow off valve is venting some of this air out of the system when it opens..

it is not for your car and i doubt will help it at all...

was your SKR tune a live dyno flash tune?

remind me next time you drop by the shop and i'll take a peek

mate, your car has a fault.. i wouldnt be attempting to fit any aftermarket product to fix a fault in your car.. fix the actual problem

that hks device is for cars with air flow metres and externally venting blow off valves.. problem its trying to fix is that the air flow meter is registering x amount of air but then the blow off valve is venting some of this air out of the system when it opens..

it is not for your car and i doubt will help it at all...

was your SKR tune a live dyno flash tune?

No mail order tune,so the only option is a manual unlocked ECU then then?


remind me next time you drop by the shop and i'll take a peek

Are you at the shop today?

No mail order tune,so the only option is a manual unlocked ECU then then?



Are you at the shop today?

mon - fri 8am - 5pm (6pm, 7p... lol)