Hi Guys,

I am new to the forum,
I have just upgraded my tp Magna, to a 97 verada Ei.
Its got 190k km in excellent condition with a full service history, I paid $2250 for it, is this a good price?

Is this a KE, or KF?? whats the difference between the two?

There is a small oil leak coming from the back of the engine, where could this be coming from?

The Electric aerial doesn't work, It is slightly bent and the bottom part can be pushed down. would this be stripped plastic gears?

The cruise control wont hold speed when going down steepish hills, the speed increases and you have to break manually. it will hold the speed going up or down small hills.

There is a dent in the front passenger door, how do you remove the door card so I can push it out?

Its due for its 200k service soon, should I get the water pump replaced. and how much should I expect to pay for a major service?

there is a knock coming from the steering column when ever you rock the steering from side to side, (without moving the wheels) there is very little play in the steering and it sounds like its coming from inside the car.

How can I tell if the car has got the alarm system, its got a 3 button remote (black with 3 small buttons at the top in an L shape) there is no security light on the dash.

Thanks in advanced

Lee

I know any car ive owned with cruise control wont slow down for me down a hill..

Electric aerial can be replaced for about 50 bucks.

200k service is a major service IIRC.

Knock from the steering column, could be, probably isn't, a spring becoming unseated.

If the spring was unseated you'd hear it from whatever corner is unseated thus it might not be.

However when it does, on turning it does knock.

Don't know what the 97 models have, but if you have an alarm there's a green SECURITY light in the dash, and also a red blinking light in the stereo.

You shouldn't be using cruise control on steep hills anyway?

2250 for a 97 Verada with 190k coming up to a major service is a pretty average price, still though, you won't be disappointed!

Welcome to the club.

the oil leak would be the tappet cover gasket which seems to be a common problem. cruise contol doesnt operate breaks it only controlls acceleration. there is a screw in the door handle and under a litlle plastic cover in the armrest and maybe a few around the door itself

welcome to the club

easiest way to know what model verada you have - is to check the VIN number on the body.

it will be 6MMK _
whatever letter is in place of the underscore, will tell you if its KE or KF.
IE - 6MMKE = KE verada
6MMKF = KF Verada.

For the magor service, depending where you go - could be anywhere from 800 - 1500 service.


Rocker cover gaskets are a known week spot for oil leaks to present.

Knock from the steering column, could be, probably isn't, a spring becoming unseated.

If the spring was unseated you'd hear it from whatever corner is unseated thus it might not be.

However when it does, on turning it does knock.

Don't know what the 97 models have, but if you have an alarm there's a green SECURITY light in the dash, and also a red blinking light in the stereo.


The knock from the steering seems to be coming from directly in front of the driver and is a single knock when the play in the steering is taken up,
with the alarm, there is no green Security light in the dash, but there is a red blinking light in the stereo.

The cruise control should keep speed constant, mine does. usually if its going down a hill , it will change down to use engine braking to maintain the correct speed. This is on the main road/highway or 50kmh zones. never tried it down a very steep driveway, but then your not suppose to. I would check for any cracks in the hose that runs from the intake manifold to the cruise control pump beside drivers engine mount, behind washer bottle. The security light is actually the word security that lights up for about 30 seconds, when lock button is pushed or car is locked using key.

You say you have the three button remote? Try this:

Unlock the vehicle and leave all doors closed, pop the boot, then with the boot still open, press the red button to lock the car.

You should hear 2 honks of the horn, warning you that the boot is open ( it may work the same for an open door, but i haven't tried it yet)

This would indicate that you indeed have the standard alarm!

Welcome to the club!

I think its funny how the car cost 2250 andthe servie will be up to 1500

Check your full service history to see if the thing has had its timing belt done recently. They are rated to be replaced at 210,000 as 195,000 is a minor service. If not its best to do the belt sooner rather than later.
You also have a KF. It wont have the alarm, its an Xi thing.
My previous TE factory cruise would not downshift to hold on hills, but I know the JDM cars would. Perhaps the export models got it, but the AUS cars did not.

The door trim can be removed by taking the screw and the handle surround out. Then a screw at the circular airvent thing on the door, and another under a rectangluar plastic cover at the bottom of the door pull on the armrest. Then the rest of the trim just clips in. Unclip and remove from the bottom of the trim first.

I have a 3 button remote, but not the one with the red and green buttons, my remote is rectangle with 3 black buttons, two across the top which lock and unlock, and one on the left side for the boot and there is no Security word on the dash. Perhaps it doesn't have an alarm.

After looking at the vin code the car is a KF

According to the service history the cam belt was changed at the 100k km service and hasn't been done since. so its due to be changed soon.

Should I get the Water pump replaced when it goes in for its service?

at 200,000 km most people would replace the water pump, idlers and cam/crank seals as well as the cam belt, but its up to you, the mechanic and the condition these parts are in once the engine is opened up.

You paid a good price for the car, but only because it was coming up to belt change time. Needless to say this is an expensive service, and can be a lot cheaper if you or a knowledgeable relative does it. The cost of the belt change service can be a good bargaining point for someone looking to buy a Magna near the 200,000 km mark.

Get them to check the drive shaft and steering rack boots while they are at it.

Cruise control is best used on a long trip on a flat road when you do constant speed and your foot gets tired from holding the one position all the time.

OK, thanks. Ill definitely get the cam belt kit replaced
What are the Idlers and cam/crank seals and are they expensive to replace?
What sort of damage am I looking at if I decide against the replacing the water-pump and it decides to fail? Is there anything I can do to look after it?
If I can I would like to put replacing the water-pump off until the next service due to lack of finances and rego being due next month.

The timing belt service is supposed to be done every 100,000 km or 5 years, but there are many people who put it off without harm. Can be put off for a while without harm. About $1,000 to $1,500 at a Mitsu dealer for the lot.

The water pump pretty much looks after itself. I have been on this forum for 5 years and I don't remember anyone suffering from a water pump failure. Might get noisy or start leaking, but that's just a guess.

Clunks from front - check tie rods. Have a ball joint under the rubber boot, can get clunky if they develop play. Steering rack boots can split and allow dirt in. Have a look at the boots.

The timing belt service is supposed to be done every 100,000 km or 5 years, but there are many people who put it off without harm. Can be put off for a while without harm. About $1,000 to $1,500 at a Mitsu dealer for the lot.

The water pump pretty much looks after itself. I have been on this forum for 5 years and I don't remember anyone suffering from a water pump failure. Might get noisy or start leaking, but that's just a guess.

Clunks from front - check tie rods. Have a ball joint under the rubber boot, can get clunky if they develop play. Steering rack boots can split and allow dirt in. Have a look at the boots.


Thanks. I will get the timing belt done, as i have had a belt fail on me before at great expense, but think ill pass on the water pump this time.

The clunk from the steering is coming from inside the car directly in front of me, just above the pedals. you cant hear it from outside the car. It does it when the car is moving and stationary, engine running and not running. it clunks once as you turn the steering wheel through the forward position and it does it when turning either way.

Definitely steering related. Get someone to turn the wheel while you look under the bonnet for the clunk.

By the way, how overdue was the belt that broke? lol

the clunk will be at the first join, just above pedals, i believe its there to collapse in the event of a front impact. there is a rubber divider that may be worn and letting the two ends hit. I know they are not meant to be really tight, some play exists. thats the only part inside the cabin that would clunk i think.

You cant hear the clunk in the bonnet or from outside the car. it is coming from inside the car above the pedals.

The belt wasn't due to be changed for another 30k km it was on a Renault Laguna 1.9DTI (back in England) the belt stripped 12 teeth, The service book stated the belt had been changed at 100k and it failed at 170k, after taking the belt off it looked like it hadn't been replaced and the service book falsely completed. luckily my father was a mechanic and he did the repairs, it bent 4 out of 8 valves and set me back nearly $2000

The clunk in your steering could be the universal joint in the column above the floor. Somebody with more experience may be able to tell you whether the shaft separates from the steering column to be replaced, or whether you'll have to replace the column.

ok, thanks. is it a problem having a worn rubber divider in that joint or should i get it replaced.

The service cost will vary greatly depending on where you get it done. I wouldn't trust some cheap mechanics with major servicing, or even doing transmission flushes or even engine oil as you don't know what they'll put back in it (most likely a cheap oil, and the trans definitely won't like that).

There are some really good mechanics but they'll cost more, but they can be worth it. Also if there are other things that need attention, they are quite willing to show you the issue on the car.

Check the power steering fluid, I can almost guarantee it won't be a nice very clear red coloured fluid (its the most neglected service item). I can also suggest the brake fluid, transmission, and radiator fluids are all overdue and would be wise getting those replaced after purchasing any vehicle! These are all things that are bad to leave on any car. Generally, power steering, transmission, and brake fluids should be changed every 2 years, and radiator 3 years. In practice, power steering and transmission are usually the most neglected, many transmissions are sealed (claiming no replacement fluid is necessary) but that is a bit of a con, all transmissions need their fluid replaced eventually. The Magna's/Verada's are designed so the fluid can be replaced. An example of a sealed transmission is that on a EL Falcon (that friend has). His gears weren't changing smoothly, so I mentioned servicing the transmission which was done and now it changes properly. The car had done 200,000, and had done some towing in its time. The fluid came out a dark and gloopy, the mechanic said that sealed transmissions are just a marketing ploy, the fluid used in them is meant to last longer but its just bad practice.

The steering on a KF/TF isn't the best, it might be a problem with the steering rack. The steering rack if replaced should be replaced with one from a TL or TW, as they fit straight in and give superior steering feel and performance (the steering rack is fully compatible but has redesigned valving etc). Mine was the same, it felt light, had freeplay, and was a little knocky which replacing the steering rack (with one from a TL) fixed all those issues.