Did a search, but after hot tips from those who have done it.

My newly acquired TF 3.0 has some minor smoking (on an otherwise very well looked after 170K km old engine), so I want to pop the heads off and have the guide seals replaced (while I do the belt/pump and the steering rack) before putting it into service.

Looks pretty straight forward in the workshop manual, but any traps for newbies? :happy:

You don't need to take the heads off to change the guide seals.

One way is to remove the spark plugs.
Feed in some rope, turn the engine, by hand to compress hard, then dissassemble the spring keepers.
Replace the seal, rebuil, etc. etc.
Gerry

you can also use a compressor with correct fitting to pressurise the cylinder and keep the valve seated, Its the usual way its done.

Righto. Was led to believe it was all too hard on the 24 valve motors (something about the valves being too recessed?). I stand corrected :)

I've replaced heads on my KE verada (3.5L) a few times now - as long as you know the order to undo the head bolts the hardest part is done.

Biggest trap I had was the need for a inhex bit and putting on too much pressure when trying to undo the bolts (First time, I rounded one of the bolts while still connecting the head to the engine, had to call out a local guy to drill the bolt out because you cant do it with normal drilling equipment)

Far cheaper and better option would be to get a cheap 3.5 engine, will improve the car to no end and be cheaper

If you need parts, either engine or engine parts, let me know as I have several wrecks here

Hopefully doing the guide seals and a timing belt is easier than pulling the whole motor, and the 3.0 is actually preferable. Its a Mum mobile, and economy is more important (I know there is bugger all in it, but there is no impetus to go to 3.5).

Plus its a good motor - been really well looked after all its life and has plenty left in it ;) I'll see how I go doing the stem seals in situ, and if its all too fiddly yank the heads. It would be worth it to avoid the logistical hassles of sourcing/transporting another whole motor and mucking around with hoists etc etc... Not hard, just more mucking about - time is money as they say :)


But if you have a good steering rack there I'd be interested?

Yup, have some racks here.

The stem seals on the 24v motor are a bugger to do on car, often the issue will present again as the guides also wear on these.

To be honest, getting an engine is not hard, I have 3 here lol, replacing is far quicker than doing seals, in the time it takes to do the seals I could have a new engine in. Economy would not really change and if anything may improve due to the better torque

If you are going to take off heads, make sure that you use genuine head gaskets and manifold gaskets

Hmmm. I shall ponder this :) No rush though - the car was just bought cheap at the hail auctions, and has gone into storage until at least next year as the TS has life left in it (should do - just did the bloody head and chains in it!) and its not worth selling. Just have to roadworthy the TF before years end to get it off the writeoff register...

But it means I can fix things at my leisure - I'll pop the rocker covers off and have a go at least. And I'm figuring if the motor is good, its better with fresh seals than another motor that will have 5-10 year old seals in it anyway and not be far off smoking again. Think it would have to be a sub 80K km motor to be worth it at this point...

Wotcha after for a nice healthy rack?

For what it's worth....I had a smoking TJ with 200k on it..got a quote for $1600 to patially rebuild the engine (no Warranty)...ended up getting a TW 3.5 with 60k for $1000 installed with 3 months warranty, new rear main seal and never looked back....that was over 20 months ago. The enigne is still running like new...(I think I jinxed it now)

I do all my own work - so valve seals will cost me 50 or whatever bucks for the seals and rocker gaskets... Timing belt/pump/tensioners are another couple of hundred.

I don't use mechanics - they never do as good a job (I don't have a big head, I just care about the details more because its my car!!) and charge like wounded bulls for something I can do easily enough.

Hence worth patching this one up ;)

I'd agree with Renoman...my Magna had the timing belt ($37.00) replaced and the labour cost was $730.00......and that was by UltraTune. Lucky the previous owner paid for it!

I do all my own work - so valve seals will cost me 50 or whatever bucks for the seals and rocker gaskets... Timing belt/pump/tensioners are another couple of hundred.

I don't use mechanics - they never do as good a job (I don't have a big head, I just care about the details more because its my car!!) and charge like wounded bulls for something I can do easily enough.

Hence worth patching this one up ;)

you should not generalise about all mechanics, some of us do care about your car for starters and as for the labout rates, we do need to eat, buy equipment, pay lease, insurance, training, bank fees etc etc or we go broke pretty quick.

If you do take the heads off remember you need to get them re surfaced as well, they will not last long if you just clean and re fit them

Just quickly jump in here... anyone know of anywhere good in adelaide to get a 3.5l conversion done and a guestimation of price (for a 3.oL Manual TE)... might look into this at tax time :)

Mark, cOme over to Melb for a weekend, I have several engines here and can have you in and out in about a day, PM me if interested

you should not generalise about all mechanics, some of us do care about your car for starters and as for the labout rates, we do need to eat, buy equipment, pay lease, insurance, training, bank fees etc etc or we go broke pretty quick.

If you do take the heads off remember you need to get them re surfaced as well, they will not last long if you just clean and re fit them

Sorry - no offense meant. There are good ones out there, but there are also a hell of a lot of dodgy ones! Or just busy ones doing things a little rushed or whatever.

And completely aware of why the labour rates are what they are - I do know you won't get rich working as a mechanic (bit like working in environmental policy for the government really... :( ) But I have over 6 months to tinker with this thing, so time (and the ability to actually do it) I have - money is the stuff in short supply ;)

Always machine heads ;) I hate doing things twice!!

I do all of my own work on my two TSs, but I would hate to be a mechanic. Too much pressure to get the job done quickly and cheaply, and them bitching about both the time and money aspects. I used to do spanner work for relatives, but now I pretend to be ignorant (Commodore? Know nothing about them , sorry) and send them to Ultratune. lol
Mind you, I like to take my time, 3 months for a clutch change on a manual TS has to be some kind of a world record - for slowness. lol

I would rip the heads off and get the valves refaced/reseated as well as a head shave and new seals. That way you know the heads are in tip top shape. Gives you a chance to look at the bores too.