Just wanting to find out how bad it would be to replace the brake pads and not get the rotors machined at the same time. I'm moving to the US in 2 months and my brake pads have worn out and every time I put my foot on the pedal I get the metal grinding sound but I don't want to spend the money except for pads.

How bad would it be just to replace the pads?

Just replacing the pads at this stage will lead to uneven braking, shuddering when braking, definately shorter pad life and shorter disc life. And they car will not behave like it should, when you really need it to.

If you're down to metal on metal, its about time you had some one look at your brakes.
What's stopping you????

Shortcuts on brakes is just Really Really stupid behaviour.

It should cost under 100.00 to get the fronts machined.

Rotors cost ~$25ea to get machined. Cheap insurance really.

Unless the discs are heavily warped, grooved or have severe run out you dont need to machine discs at pad change time.

However last time I changed my pads without machining (but was machined on the previous change) damn they screamed for a while, was so embarrassing.. different brand padas I think it was wearing slightly further out than before or something.

is there any special tooling required to change the pads (is like the ea ford?)

However last time I changed my pads without machining (but was machined on the previous change) damn they screamed for a while, was so embarrassing.. different brand padas I think it was wearing slightly further out than before or something.

Did you put a filed edge on the top and bottom edge of the pads? If not that'd be the cause of the screaming/squealing noise (edge of pad rubbing against the lip of the disc)

Geez, the guy wants good advice, and you give him this baloney, having a go at your pads with a file before you fit them....

Just to remind you a engineer designed these things to work properly.

Brakes have shims for a very good reason, Movement, the discs and pads expand and contract with every use. Minor grooves will greatly affect the the contact of the pad to the disc, affecting braking capability and heat dispersion.
Follow these so called tips, and you are sure end up with deeper grooves ( which will require even more machining) Cracks in your discs, and most likely warping.


Any Pro worth his salt will recommend the machining.

Please keep your 'cowboy' tricks to yourself.
/rant

I've re-fitted old pads to machined rotors and filed them flat....rather then wavy pads scoring nice new rotors. Doesn't apply in this case but as long as the front disc's are above 22.4mm (min height) then just throwing new pads on is fine to last 2 months

Depends too, as to wether he'll sell the car or dump it.
We'd both be looking for more faults and shortcuts taken with a car treated like that, if you or I were going to buy it.
A great way to lose a prospective buyer or lose money in a haggle.

Depends too, as to wether he'll sell the car or dump it.
We'd both be looking for more faults and shortcuts taken with a car treated like that, if you or I were going to buy it.
A great way to lose a prospective buyer or lose money in a haggle.

Well to a point yes, if you got it checked out at a mechanic and needed new rotors + pads, that's about $170 in work right there, but with what he needs to get done Isn't "shonky"
Personally, like with what I have done to my own car I've purchased, I've re-done all the brakes with new items where needed and machined the rear disc's. However upon buying a car, specially a CHEAP one as I assume he will be selling this for, as long as it drives nice, shifts smoothy, you can see SOME brake pads left I mean I dont see what he is doing is so bad.

Geez, the guy wants good advice, and you give him this baloney, having a go at your pads with a file before you fit them....

Just to remind you a engineer designed these things to work properly.

Brakes have shims for a very good reason, Movement, the discs and pads expand and contract with every use. Minor grooves will greatly affect the the contact of the pad to the disc, affecting braking capability and heat dispersion.
Follow these so called tips, and you are sure end up with deeper grooves ( which will require even more machining) Cracks in your discs, and most likely warping.


Any Pro worth his salt will recommend the machining.

Please keep your 'cowboy' tricks to yourself.
/rant

Mate, ask any "pro" about pad champfering. Discs are not always changed when pads are done and not all discs require changing at the same time as pads or can even be machined (E.g. anything European due to the compound of the brake disc).

Its a well known and widely used technique used to eliminate brake squeal cause by the lip of a used disc rubbing against the outer top and bottom edge of the new pad.

How does chamfering help the OP,
Actually I laughed at the design of high quality pads with both ends chamfered.. ( So guys at home don't put the leading edge the wrong way around lol). These chamfers BTW are cut in on the leading edge of the pad to reduce squeal. And sometimes done ( maybe out of habit ) when both components are newed.
I'm not sure how to take your advice about not having to renew my discs when I change pads though??????? Isnt this thread about getting discs machined/or not :)
These techniques are age old, but don't quite cut it with regular high speeds, power assisted brakes, and our poor quality magna discs.
If they were aftermaket expensive discs, If I wanted to cheat and not machine discs, I would definatley put on a very soft, fast wearing pad, to help save the life of the rotor.

But Either way, I'd put machined/nonmachined brakes to the test. To see the most consisent effective brake system.

These old tricks we can get away with if we have enough experience, making allowances for longer bedding times etc. But I dont think the OP has this experience.

But the best advice, get some one to look at them, if they are damaged, and it might just be one, whip em off, and get em back in good nick. But it sounds like you should get some advice and have some one take a look? You can take one or both off yourself and get em machined if required. That'll save a lot, You could get both machined and new pads for under $100.00 that way.

How does chamfering help the OP,
Actually I laughed at the design of high quality pads with both ends chamfered.. ( So guys at home don't put the leading edge the wrong way around lol). These chamfers BTW are cut in on the leading edge of the pad to reduce squeal. And sometimes done ( maybe out of habit ) when both components are newed.
I'm not sure how to take your advice about not having to renew my discs when I change pads though??????? Isnt this thread about getting discs machined/or not :)
These techniques are age old, but don't quite cut it with regular high speeds, power assisted brakes, and our poor quality magna discs.
If they were aftermaket expensive discs, If I wanted to cheat and not machine discs, I would definatley put on a very soft, fast wearing pad, to help save the life of the rotor.

But Either way, I'd put machined/nonmachined brakes to the test. To see the most consisent effective brake system.

These old tricks we can get away with if we have enough experience, making allowances for longer bedding times etc. But I dont think the OP has this experience.

But the best advice, get some one to look at them, if they are damaged, and it might just be one, whip em off, and get em back in good nick. But it sounds like you should get some advice and have some one take a look? You can take one or both off yourself and get em machined if required. That'll save a lot, You could get both machined and new pads for under $100.00 that way.

nemesis is talking about the top and bottom of the pad squealing on the unworn edge that is at the top and bottom of a used disc, noting to do with the leading edge of the pad.

he brought this up because someone replied and said that when they replaced their pads without machining the discs, they squealed alot. seems to be a helpfull and relevant statement for this thread.