Hi all, I'm new to this forum and a new Magna owner! :happy:

But... after getting the car home and adding a new battery there are some things that concern me. :cry:

When we looked at the car the guy said the battery needed charging, the overdrive solenoid needs replacing, the cv joints and the rear rocker cover is leaking. Replaced the battery, fixed the rear rocker cover gasket (surprisingly not as hard is it first looked).

1. Took it for a spin tonight, battery light came on when idling and dissappeared when revs were up.

2. When you press the accelerator the car it takes a little while for the car to start accelerate (more so when cold).

3. Put in overdive and it just starts reving.

4. Would sit in limbo reving if you backed off when the revs got high and struggle to change - doing the same when you put the foot down, wouldn't change with foot on the floor.

5. Appears the have surge when accelerating. Even after warm just doesn't respond when you first put the foot down and seems as though it gets half way and then it's like a powerband comes on!!!

In all it just feels a bit heavy and sluggish with minimal response. Wondering if I'm up for an auto.?.? Anyone know a good place to get auto's in Adelaide?

Other things I noticed was tape around the dip stick!!!! Took that off, oil cap spitting oil but dip stick seems ok.

And the hose that goes from the throttle body to the top of the rear rocker cover has turned rock hard and I noticed the nozzle on the rocker cover is chocked closed with the hard rubber, will this be okay?

CV joints I'm okay with fixing but how can you tell if it's just the joints or the whole shafts?

Sorry for the long post, I'm just a little concerned about our new car, got for $600 so not bad for that kind of money, but it's replacing our Daewoo that's slowly dying with shot crank bearrings!

I'll try to get my mechanic friend to have a look at it but if anyone has any ideas I'd appreciate it.

Thanks, :happy:

Mathew

When you buy an old neglected Magna, you must expect a few problems. lol
Make a list of all the things wrong with the car and SEARCH this forum. The problems you describe have all been covered before, but if you expect anyone (well, me actually) to go through all of them for your benefit, which would take thousands of words and a couple of hours, you have just hit a brick wall. All I can say is that if you are not mechanically savvy, and need to pay someone else to fix all the problems, its going to cost you a lot more than $600 to fix.

Funny, I did this as some others have done the same and people have at least pointed them in the right direction (maybe those not so bound by 'forum rules' and don't mind helping.?.?). Like me they possibly looked all night and couldn't find info that linked with their questions (wording perhaps). Please don't make assumptions, I AM SEARCHING and haven't stopped searching the forums. I will note: I eventually found something on the battery fault.

I don't expect anyone to sit down and do the study for me but if anyone knows even ONE of these problems and can quickly mention what they did etc (while I keep searching the forums of course), that would be much appreciated.

OK then - just checking if you are paying attention!


(1) Spigot on rear bank is clogged with carbon, needs to be cleaned out as it causes pressure build up in the engine. Clean out the front one too. Common in overheated engines, check that the fans come on when the engine is hot. Idle it while hot and they should both start up after a minute or two. Replace the piece of hose with a new bit, fuel line will do. Check the spigot in the air intake is clear, if you remove the air ducting you will find a lot of oily carbon inside it, as well as the throttle body. Give it a good clean. Check that the front PVC valve, at the end of the short hose on the front spigot, is clear. Try an engine flush treatment when you change the oil to reduce the carbon buildup in the engine.
(2) Alternator - you need new brushes, regulator or a recon alternator. Your new battery will just go flat. $150 for a recon.
(3) Overdrive - common for them to not work. Try going 60 kph with overdrive off, then lift your right foot and switch overdrive on. Give it a second to catch overdrive, then press the accelerator gently. If it doesn't engage you need a new clutch pack. Common for them to go out, mine does this at 240,000 km.
(4) CV shafts - your choice if you replace just the joints or get exchange recon shafts. If the boots are torn but the joints are ok, then the boots can be replaced. If you are in the northern suburbs, Parts Boys (Elizabeth) have them, $60 for all 4. Also check the steering rack boots, about $15 each.
(5) Common for the 3L to feel sluggish until you hit 3,000 rpm, then get a lot of acceleration. Major powerband evident. The engine is best behind a manual gearbox for that reason. The later 3.5L and 3.8 L engines are much better, more torque at low rpm.
(6) Poor erratic idle is the ISC problem.
(7) Poor gear engagement at takeoff and rough shifting is the TPS.

If your mechanic friend has worked on Magnas before these problems will be easy for him to fix, if he has never worked on a Magna, he will be scratching his head. lol

He's helped with most points just getting the car to him. oil caps are a pain too I just found out, even new cheapy replacements! Teh auto was kind of ok today without forcing it but I will check into your points, the batt light is ok for now but I'll save my pennies just in case.

The power band obviously is not so abnormal by the sounds.

Guy doewn south says $100 for ea cv so I might try the ones you mentioned.

Thanks for your help, much appreciated, a few more sessions under the bonnet! :)

Still will be a good car though when it's uup and running, motors rev quite well!

Gotta pull it apart tomorrow again! Started to run out of oil already and I only filled it last night! Oil is coming out of the cap and I'm wondering if it's still leaking out of the back cover still. Would the blocked spiggot be causing enough pressure to actually push oil out of the cap, etc?

YES!!!!! CLEAN SPIGOTS!!!! Engine will piss oil until you do! Been there,done that. Not really paying attention are you? Thats why I'm SHOUTING now!!!!!

It's the oil leaks you can't see that are the problem. Excess crankcase pressure can pop crank and cam seals off their seats. Engine dismantle job if this has happened.:eeek:

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP, I DID GET THAT BUT I WANTED TO BE 100% SURE AS MY LAST CARS NEVER BEHAVED LIKE THIS EVEN WHEN THOSE HOSES BROKE OR BLOCKED UP!

You can be somewhat of a smarta*** but I still appreciate your help! Thanks, is this why your username is madmax? :P

Hey MadMax just wondering if you could direct where these spigots are located or what they look like? I would like to clean them but i cannot locate them in the gregory's or mitsu workshop manuals i have. Perhaps they are called something different in these manuals?

I'm pretty sure he's referring to the PCV at the front, and the elbows on the rocker covers (f+r)

The elbows on the rocker cover gunk up over time and this is the cause, its just a crap design from factory, had the elbow of been larger in diameter, these problems would not exist.

Spent all this morning replacing the blocked rocker cover, front and rear gaskets, put it all back together... POURING OUT OIL UNDER THE TIMING BELT SIDE!!!! I'm guessing the cam seal. Had to happen just before I get chance to fix the blockage!

No driving now till I get my friend to fix it. And we just sold the other car today as well! :(

At least the top end's all good now! :P

;1252587']I'm pretty sure he's referring to the PCV at the front, and the elbows on the rocker covers (f+r)

The elbows on the rocker cover gunk up over time and this is the cause, its just a crap design from factory, had the elbow of been larger in diameter, these problems would not exist.

Yes, the two elbows on the rocker covers with hoses attached to them. They block up with carbon, hard to remove too, as the rocker cover has a double skin and the elbows connect to the gap between them. Poke them out with a length of wire, also check the hoses, pcv valve on the front one. and where the back one joins to the air ducting. If oil escapes from the oil filler cap, it means that the crankcase is being pressurised because there is a blockage somewhere.
This is bad news, as oil will then get onto the exhaust and make a stink, and the pressure can cause other leaks elsewhere in the engine.

Mat777: 3 seals under the timing cover, 2 cam and 1 crank seal. Pressure may have popped one out.

Yeah I'm putting money on one being pushed out before he cleaned everything. Mine popped the cam seals out twice :D

2 seconds to push the seal back in, 2 hours to get to it lol Hope there isn't oil on the cam belt.

Given the oil all over that side, on the alternator, the drive belts, the passenger side mud flap, etc, etc, I'd say the cam belt has had a good swim in oil! :(

Was going to get the belt done anyway, I'll just be doing that first, along with the other belts too! :(

Get the belts and pulley off, remove timing covers, use engine degreaser ro clean up, remount the pulley, tighten, fire it up - should be obvious where the leak is.

Sounds more like an external leak though, check the rear rocker cover gasket first. If you take the top covers off the cam belt covers, you can check the condition of the belt. That will tell you if the leak is inside the cam belt covers, or outside.

Had a look today, it's not soaked in oil or anything but there seems to be a small amount on the gears, etc and though the belt appears fairly dry I can't help but think it has gotten some on it. I'm ringing someone to come and check it out and replace the belts if necessary (the outer ones at least as they have copped a fair bit of oil). Was thinking of getting the timing belt changed just to be safe anyway.

I had just finished both rocker covers with new gaskets and sealant so I'm pretty sure that has eliminated that. I couldn't see any oil coming out from there any more.

Yes, the two elbows on the rocker covers with hoses attached to them. They block up with carbon, hard to remove too, as the rocker cover has a double skin and the elbows connect to the gap between them. Poke them out with a length of wire, also check the hoses, pcv valve on the front one. and where the back one joins to the air ducting. If oil escapes from the oil filler cap, it means that the crankcase is being pressurised because there is a blockage somewhere.
This is bad news, as oil will then get onto the exhaust and make a stink, and the pressure can cause other leaks elsewhere in the engine.

Mat777: 3 seals under the timing cover, 2 cam and 1 crank seal. Pressure may have popped one out.

Thanks. I now know what you are talking about.

Too bad i caught the flu from hanging around in a hospital too long so didn't get a chance to do anything on the car this weekend. :(

Apoligies for the noob thread hijack Mat777.

I've just located a smallish leak in the rear rocket cover. Pulled it off and sure enough there are marks on the gasket showing it had slipped and was under one edge of the cover, rather than sitting in the gap been the two layers, as it should. Now a new gasket was put in the cover, but silastic makes it so slippery that it won't sit correctly, one small section pops out, in EXACTLY the same place where the old gasket was pinched. No way its going to go on the engine properly, seeing the way it has to be maneuvered into place. I'm going to have to shrink the gasket somehow (paint thinners is brilliant at shrinking neoprene lol) or use some quick drying gasket goo to glue it down. Anyone have any suggestions for a quick drying, very sticky gasket cement??

PS This slipping of the gasket might have been your problem too, Mat777, have a look at the old gasket. And keep an eye on the new one. lol

Never mind. Silastic started to set and held the gasket in place. Doesn't seem to be leaking, but only time - and my drip tray - will tell. lol

MMMMMmmmmmm (Thinking out loud) I wonder how the professionals keep the rocker cover gasket in place? PITA really. Good ol' Astron engine doesn't do this. lol

Go for it cobra. :)

I had a similar problem with the rear rocker cover gasket folding on the edge but it didn't appear to leak. Fixed it anyway.

It's getting picked up tomorrow morning, looking forward to getting it back! We only just started to 'bond' and then this! :cry:

We got a car lent to us at least. This morning I learnt just how (un)reliable the taxi company can be! :roll:

Hey guys just an update... :(

The car had water in the sump, heads need replacing, timing belt, drive belt, cv joints, all brakes and rotors, and thats to get it to a safe point. Auto prob still needs work down the track. Mechanic's been fantastic, really helpful, but now to decide to get them to fix it, do it myslef or cut my losses and start again! :confused:

I'd be DIY'ing it mate.
get another set of heads from the wreckers and get em cleaned/crank tested/machined and go from there.

Funny, that. My TS V6 wagon's engine is in bits too, with persistent oil leaks in the valley. I'm blaming head gaskets at the moment, but they are not off the car yet and I might need some "new" heads from u-pull-it. Might meet you there some time! lol Northern yard has about 3 TS v6s that can be raped for heads and other engine components. Worth a look, I haven't been to the southern yard so I don't know what is there, but you might find some reasonable disk rotors and drive shafts there.

Now you know why the car was only $600 to start with. Not funny, if you aren't into DIY car mechanics.

If it all seems too much bother at this stage, just remind yourself that once you are past these annoyances, you will have a reliable car to drive for the next few years.

As for starting again, any $600 car will come with its own set of unique problems. Unless you go upmarket to $10K or so, you end up sorting out normal wear and tear (or neglect) problems from previous owners.

True. :)

Just not sure atthis stage what I want to do... I reckon it would be a good car too after the work, it's just a matter of what we can afford at the moment. :doubt:

I priced recoed heads at around $350 or something at Eddy Wreckers but it sounds like the ones you go to might be cheaper.

OK then - just checking if you are paying attention!


If your mechanic friend has worked on Magnas before these problems will be easy for him to fix, if he has never worked on a Magna, he will be scratching his head. lol


Love your comment madmax about "scratching his head"

I said farewell to the Magna today!

Weighed up all that needs to be fixed, by that stage I could buy another car that has actually been looked after. Even after the main problems, the list keeps going with that one.

Now to see what car we end up with next!!! :happy: