I have noticed that my TJ has been running a little hotter that usual. The temeprature sits on normal during driving but climbs up 2-3 marks over the normal temperature when I stop at the lights. Then when I turn on the air con the temperature goes back down to normal.
So I tested the fans and they seem to switch on right on time, replaced coolant and the thermostat that was all covered in some red crap and that helped a little but now its back to the same issue. I have bled the system. Any suggestions> Water pump,radiator? (hope not)

The other problem I have noticed is that my power steering pump is leaking. I was going to replace it, but I just wanted to see if its worth getting a seal kit and trying to refurb the pump. Has anyone done that and is it worth the effort?

try a radiator flush additive from super cheap.. if its not loosing any water, this is likely you issue. you have a blocked radiator, and when the cars revs increase the water can get past the blockage. also, was there inhibitor in the system? there could be some serious corrosion if there has not been inhibitor in there for a while.

I had the engine fitted from a wreckers over 18 months ago so I assume there was no inhibitor added when they did the swap over. I have never added any since. Is it too late to add now?

never too late. lol Flush it out first though. Red crap = iron and aluminium corrosion.

Steering pump - don't know if there is a seal kit, try checking the bolts for tightness, if the leak is not too bad, leave it. Both pumps and boots leak in older cars, adds to the character of them. lol I go through about 1/2 L of power steering fluid a year, between my 2 TSs.

um i was going to say why does your water look red? but there you have it,
this is what i did when i changed my coolent
add some coolent to water, just make sure you get the ratio right of water to coolant.
there is a drain plug on the radiator, and drain as much as you can from the engine, and also the heater core, you will find the inlet going into the cabin on the firewall, then refill from the top of the radiator, the heater core inlet and on the engine side of the thermostat, with the premixed water/coolant.
untill it fills up, then add some to the res bottle on the right hand side of the engine bay, with the radiator cap off start the car, the water level should drop as the coolant enters the engine, you may need to wait untill the thermostat opens. so keep an eye out on the temp. when you think thats the max amount of water/coolant you will be able to put in, replace cap and park car on a backward slope so that the radiator cap is the highest point. turn car off and let it cool down for a few hours, then check later under the cap to see if it needs a top up.

I'll have to check where exactly the pump is leaking from as its a bit hard to see without taking the wheel and the plastic behind it off, I'll give it a good clean and check for any leaks after. I'll give the radiator a good flush as per above and see if that make any difference.

Thanks for your help !!

Pump, if it is leaking badly and not just from a hose or the coupling, get another from the wreckers. Look for a clean one! lol

Pump is prob leaking from the "O" rings on the pressure pipe, is common after an engine change as some noobs actually disconnect the pump instead of removing it from the motor and letting it swing back out of the way

Do a full engine flush, get some good cooling system flush, first of all drain from the lower drain plug, refil, warm up engine with rad cap off until is up to temp, CAREFULLY remove the top hose to drop the level a little and add the flush, run 20 mins with cap back on and allow the engine then to cool so as to release pressure.

Remove the 2 bungs on the engine block, one is behind the dipstick tube, one is on the other side closer to the bell housing area (but on the block)

While bungs are removed, using a hose will do, fill from the rad and allow to flow out the drains until what you have there comes out clean.

While you are there, change your thermostat as this may also be part of your actual issue.

Put in the bungs, pop in some Nulon concentrate and refil SLOWLY with water to top up, once it will not take any more run engine up to temp and then allow to cool and top up again as level will drop.

Ensure you watch your temp guage as well to make sure you do not cook the engine. If you are keen, you can do the initial warm up with the cap off as I do, I put my hand over the rad and squeze the bottome hose to assist the air out, just ensure that when the new thermostat opens and the hot coolant comes thorugh you do not burn your hand LOL

Check eBay, Portside Mitsubishi are selling power steering pump seal kits for $6.

Thanks, I see If I'll have enough time to do a DIY with pictures. It would come in handy for others like myself.

Check eBay, Portside Mitsubishi are selling power steering pump seal kits for $6.

yeah I saw that one, that's why I was asking to see if it's a tough job to do..I have a workshop manual so it may be a little easier.