I kept geting my battery light coming on (flashing with the low freq) so i decided to upgrade my 2 Farad capacitor with a Soudstream 6 Farad cap - i looked into Capcells - wasnt moved by hte idea lol so yea.

Ill send pics soon! no more flashy battery light - i am aware i am placing greater stress on my alternator - however ALL the places i called (every place aroud parra/penrith/campbelltown/wollongong/sydney) DO NOT make high amperage alternators to suit Third Gen Magnas - i even called BOSCH and some other alternator specialists - oh they were MORE than happy to fabricate one for me but im not forkign out $1000-1400 for a alternator - if the standard one lasts me 1year - its onli $120 - i can buy arod 8 of them thats 8years - by then i prb woudlnt have this car :) And thats only if they die EVERY YEAR lol :)

For those who dont know what im running

15" 750W RMS clarion sub - 600W RMS amp + 350Wrms 2 channel to power rear 6x9's (also clarion)

Getting new CD player too! $270 i think the best buy is Pioneer DEH-5250SD Car CD MP3 USB Tuner seems to be best value for money. :) i really need the USB port on the front.

i would think that proper grounds would have fixed that. I have seen much more power put through the stock alternator with proper grounds (think 2k plus wrms) and no cap with no problems... so really you just wasted your money

I dont wanna be in your ride if a loose paper clip is in the boot..... ZZZZZZZAAAAAAAPPPPPPP!!!!

If that puppy discharges you had better carry a fire extinguisher and a Holy book of some description.

Notice any volume drops ? because with installing these in others car (which i have tried to advise against) i have noticed a slight or in some rare cases a big drop in DB's. Remove the cap how ever and BAM more DB's !

hmmm lol im not in comps so DB isnt a big issue for me at all - its WAY too loud as it is - i mean i got the amp turned down and bass is all the way down (-6 all it goes to) and its still realii bassy

Wasted my money? ive had the system for 1yr without the cap and 1yr with the 2farad capaitor - yea i can crank it up with no cap - but thing is the Battery light will flicker with the bass - you might have not noticed this - my amp has 90amp fuses - im not talkign abou the one in the cable im talking about the actual fuses on the amp - theres 3 30A - if i dont knwo better if anyone konws this in detail feel free to jump in - but those fuses addded up is wat the amp will draw at its max - its actualy abit weaker than its max so that the fuses blow instead of the amp itself -- so 90A for the amp - another 40A for my other amp - thats about 130amp - we do only have a 108A alternator.... but ofcorse thats evrythign up all the way - in wich instance i wont even be able to sit in my car LOL :)

oh well you peopel think i wasted my money - but the flickering is GONE ! GONE I TEL YA :) it onli cost me $200 so i dont see the big deal.

Well if it works for you and your happy then i dont see a problem !

:) thanks for that :)

hey not to mention the looks diffence :)

I hate to state the obvious - why didn't you replace the battery?

For an extra $100 you could have had an Optima bolstering your charging system when the voltage drops below 13V plus the 2Farad cap you already had? Add a 30cm neg terminal upgrade and you could add another amp without the dancing lights.

Fuses on the amps only tell half the story. I wired a mates car who has a total of 200A when adding the amp fuses . Since he runs his mono at 2ohm instead of 1ohm and hasn't bridged any of the channels on his 4 channel amp, he is only running a total of just over 120A. The fact it is music means he will probably never hit that either.

Caps are a good visual aid - and very pretty sometimes. I hope your battery powers on other you will be up for more $$$.

$300 for the optima ? hmm im gona look into geting that too - and ill upgrade the neg terminal too:) thanks for that ;)

I direct earth connection would probably be advantageous if you haven't already got one...

hmm wat u mean by direct earth connection? to battry?

Yes it basically is the biggest size cable you can get running the shortest length possible from the Negative terminal of the battery to a nice paint free area on the chassis. Often people run a second one from the Negative terminal to the Engine Block just for good measure.

From there the next step is an earthing kit....

Yeah seems you haven't done your research here.
Starting a thread here, or even searching ebay US would yield a 300A high output alternator for 3rd gens direct from the us for about $400.
I was running a total of 180A in "fuses" and my alternator is only 85A, never ONCE did the battery light come on. with the new system It will be closer to 260A total in "fuses"

1) Clean all your earths, factory and from stereo.
2) Optima yellowtop
3) H.O. Alternator.

Mate of mine had massive headlight dimming problems with his lancer, All his earths were perfect, put in a yellowtop, BAM! no more headlight dimming.

Capacitors are a gimmick, seem's they've conned you in aswell.

Caps are not Gimmicks... Its just they have one purpose : Store Charge for BIG bass hits.
a Cap is like NOS for amplifiers, they release stored charge in a Big hit.. then they have to recharge which puts more pressure on the cars electric system.
An Optima Battery should clear up any issues a system has as it is a Battery, able to dish out Voltage over an extended period of time.

Yes an Alternator upgrade and Wiring check should be done if the system pumps out close to 1000W RMS.

Exactly, so they don't do anything a very good battery and alternator won't already do!