Well, stupid mistake on my part, but no big deal, I'm dealing with it, easier if you dont throw a hissy everytime you **** up cause then it just drags on lol Anyway sump is off again as i snapped one of the long bolts at the back in it. Its made of a soft compound and lockjaws cant fit between the girdle and the trans case.

it's in a POS spot. A small drill bit wont reach far enough, as then i was going to try a screw extractor on it. ummmmm yeah I need ideas.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/100_1548.jpg

Are you referring to this..?? Can you get a pair of vice grips up there..??

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3412/4625662237_0be2f8aed2.jpg

(1) Hammer. Center punch. Thump it. Use drill and easy out.
OR
(2)Cut slot, use screwdriver, but soak it first.
OR
(3) Better still, cover the area with enough sealant so that it oozes out the hole past the bolt stump and seals it anyway. What's it meant to hold down? (up?) Just that corner of the sump?
OR
(4) The bolt stump is in the rear oil seal carrier, which is soft alloy. If the above suggestions are useless, may I suggest - pull the gearbox, remove clutch, flywheel, oil seal carrier, multigrips, reassemble.

Option 3 is my favourite. It will most likely work without leaking. What the hell, a little leak here won't hurt, will it? A drip tray costs $10 if you really want to keep things clean.

YOu need a proper stud extractor, these used to be made by Sidchrome, look like a tube socket but when you look inside it has a plate with a small hole, internally has a set of jaws which will grip

You will need about 6mm sticking out for this to work

Failing that, the only other option I can see will be to remove the box and flywheel so you can get access, grind it flat, punch, drill and tap it again. You can not drill it with the bit sticking out

BTW that bit is actually the carrier for the rear main seal, is alloy thus may be better to just remove it and replace it as drilling steel when is surrounded in alloy is difficult

I've already sent him down to pick up a stud extractor. Briliant tools.

http://www.tengtools.com.au/images/D/st12506-01.jpg

(1) Hammer. Center punch. Thump it. Use drill and easy out.
OR
(2)Cut slot, use screwdriver, but soak it first.
OR
(3) Better still, cover the area with enough sealant so that it oozes out the hole past the bolt stump and seals it anyway. What's it meant to hold down? (up?) Just that corner of the sump?
OR
(4) The bolt stump is in the rear oil seal carrier, which is soft alloy. If the above suggestions are useless, may I suggest - pull the gearbox, remove clutch, flywheel, oil seal carrier, multigrips, reassemble.

Option 3 is my favourite. It will most likely work without leaking. What the hell, a little leak here won't hurt, will it? A drip tray costs $10 if you really want to keep things clean.

1) Cant get a small drill bit that far up, hits the girdle and sandwhich plate
2) Hmm not sure how I'd cut a slot up there
3) Not a chance in hell, just spent the last 3 months re-wiring the whole motor and half the interior and cleaning the whole engine bay top to bottom, should see how clean my subframe looks. if my 20 year old diamante doesnt leak oil with 250K on it, then my TR with 60K on the clock wont be dripping oil either :P
4) Would like to avoid that for a simple broken bolt *do'h*


YOu need a proper stud extractor, these used to be made by Sidchrome, look like a tube socket but when you look inside it has a plate with a small hole, internally has a set of jaws which will grip

You will need about 6mm sticking out for this to work

Failing that, the only other option I can see will be to remove the box and flywheel so you can get access, grind it flat, punch, drill and tap it again. You can not drill it with the bit sticking out

BTW that bit is actually the carrier for the rear main seal, is alloy thus may be better to just remove it and replace it as drilling steel when is surrounded in alloy is difficult

You ahh....wouldn't have one I could borrow do ya? :d

sump bolts need 5 to 7 Nm. How come it broke? If you were taking it out when it broke, its probably corroded in and any method that involves grabbing the stump will just shear it off.

Might be an expensive way to go, and probably at an engineering supply store not a hardware store, but you can get long series drills. Centrepunch to start it. You can also get screw extractors that you drill out the centre, then screw in to whats left of the bolt except the twists go the other way, so anticlockwise twisting tightens them in. When theres more grab on the screw extractor than the screws threads, it stops going in and undoes the screw instead. Sometimes.

sump bolts need 5 to 7 Nm. How come it broke? If you were taking it out when it broke, its probably corroded in and any method that involves grabbing the stump will just shear it off.


No no, twas me who overtightened it. Just mis-read directions and I've ended up here, can only blame myself, well, I've learnt now. I've also learnt to not overwrite your ECU file with a blank one when you dont have a current copy of it, and not to crack oil pumps from screwing in oil senders.

Going to get a few cheap cockets today and some jb weld and see how that goes

You, Sir, are one of a rare breed. You are now a fully qualified member of the IFIUANIGFI club!

For those not knowing, that stands for "I FUBAR'ED it up and now I gotta fix it". FUBAR - look it up!

Overwriting our ECU with a blank map, now that is REAL creative! Gold star! Oil pump destruction? mmm not so much.

All kidding aside, we have all made mistakes like that and just write them off as learning experiences. "We" being those who are actually prepared to get our hands dirty, and not just pass a problem on to a mechanic, and then whinge about it not being done right, or too slowly, or costing too much $$$.

You, Sir, are one of a rare breed. You are now a fully qualified member of the IFIUANIGFI club!

For those not knowing, that stands for "I FUBAR'ED it up and now I gotta fix it". FUBAR - look it up!

Overwriting our ECU with a blank map, now that is REAL creative! Gold star! Oil pump destruction? mmm not so much.
As amusing as this comment is (and i mean that!) please try to keep spam out of the tech sections. The tech sections are here so people can find the info they need and fix the problem without having to trawl through posts that arent useful to find the relevant info.

No no:P Was my aftermarket ECU. I know have copys of the map's everywhere lol so that doesnt happen again. Would of been fine except it was xmas and the shop who had my tune was closed for two weeks >< DAMMIT.

Yeah try and do most of the work myself....

Tried the metal weld in a socket but to no avail. Cut a slit into the surface with a hacksaw blade and VOILA.

Thanks peeps. Car is back together now hopefully leak free :D

/end thread