Basically, is there a way to suck in new fluid into the transmission DIY style? Surely people can do this at home and not have to get it done by a professional, but how is it done?

Would be keen on how this is done as pretty sure the diamante hasnt had a change...in a long...long time...

Do you mean something like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsdPAadc9fY

On our cars to put oil in you need a piece of hose ( clear tube about garden hose size would be cleanest) on the end of an ordinary funnel because of the bendy access. Also for us the easiest place to get output is at the bottom of the radiator. Just pull the outlet hose off the radiator and push on the one going into the oil drain pan. Might be best to use SPIII and turn off engine every 60 seconds to refill. Not real mechanical myself but this isnt a difficult job. Very easy to pour oil into the trans, the dipstick hole is wider than the one on the engine.

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_3019/article.html

This was the method I used when I did my auto trans fluid flush.

Excellent. That's all I needed to hear....Sounds good.....Thanks dude.

I thought of one way to do it. You would need two containers linked by a hose, and a hose from each container to the tranny filter, fill up the container connected to the in line with fluid. When the oil is pumped out of the tranny it will force new oil in. It would require something that could withstand some pressure, not like your grandpas rain catcher :p

You could use those methods or use a pump like your sunscreen etc like i have to change my tranny fluid. Think i got it from repco.

in no way saying that this is the best way to do it (may already have been suggested)

remove BOTH lines to the trans cooler. as you know paul one is suction and the other is not. what i'd do, plunge the suction one into a tub or gallon of trans fluid and put the outlet in similar. start the car.

it should suck it up and spit it out once its gone through the GB. keep going until it comes out red. did this on a mates car and worked fine...

Genuine trans filter from Mitsu - $92
Filter AND gasket kit from bursons - $32.

Think I know which one I'm getting.
Anyway, Ian, That's what I thought WOULD work but I just wanted to confirm 100% if it would.
I'll still be taking the pan off to clean it out, but that's what I wanted to do from the getgo.
if it worked fine for you should work fine for me...
Well...good to know what to do. Just gotta go get 15L of fluid now.

Hmm, maybe I'm missing something, but when I did the auto transmissions on my TL and Keiths' KJ Verada, I took both hoses off and the fluid came out of both of them. 2 people, one in the car to turn the ignition off, one watching the fluid come out. Do it in stages - the transmission will flush itself.

Hmm, maybe I'm missing something, but when I did the auto transmissions on my TL and Keiths' KJ Verada, I took both hoses off and the fluid came out of both of them. 2 people, one in the car to turn the ignition off, one watching the fluid come out. Do it in stages - the transmission will flush itself.

Mind explaining that in a bit more detail? so how did you flush the trans?

;1257120']Mind explaining that in a bit more detail? so how did you flush the trans?

Drain the transmission first, obviously, drain the pan, (keep in mind this is for a 3rd gen, yours might be different) fill the transmission with about 5 liters of fluid, both hoses off pointed into an oil pan (I found cable tieing them together and holding them so they don't spurt everywhere did the trick) get your mate in the drivers seat to turn the ignition on and cycle the gears, yell stop when the oil starts to slow up or it becomes the colour you're looking for (cherry red) for your mate to kill the ignition. Repeat this process of filling and running the engine till the fluid comes out a nice red/pink colour.

I always thought about another way to do it if you had a third person. The third bloke would pour transmission fluid into the filler hole at the top through a funnel continuously while someone else is under the car checking the fluid, and of course the guy in the car to start and kill the engine and cycle the gears.

That's OK I have many minions to give me a hand:P

Great idea again, cheers.

;1257138']That's OK I have many minions to give me a hand:P

Great idea again, cheers.

Yeah, no worries.

If you do it with the 3 person idea I suggested, you would be flushing the transmission pretty efficiently IMO, as it would go in and be cycled under the pressure of the system and be constantly going in new and coming out old.

Let us know how you go.

Do you mean something like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsdPAadc9fY




Did this method work? My transmission on a 2000 TJ is starting to get a bit... unhappy, so i figure a service is in order.

Hi Galois,

I am not an expert but as far as I can tell the method shown in that video is not that different to the one in the manual.

The main difference is that in the manual you run the idle for only a short while then turn off to refil.

Also in the manual you do the radiator side first, before draining the transaxle, then again after you drain the transaxle and refil it with clean fluid. In the video he does the transaxle first. The method in the manual worked better in my car for some reason. Doesnt seem to make sense to do this while there is still dirty oil in the transmission, but it may take a while for full pressure to build up or something.

The older Gregorys manual for the TF, which I have, says bring the oil to operating temperature. I wouldnt. The later 380 manual on CD doesnt mention this. The video is not done with hot oil.

The oil pump in the transmission is powerful, the hose going from the radiator to the bucket needs to be on tight. Also, block off the hose that you take off the radiator by clamping a bolt into it or something because it will want to drain clean fluid into the bucket.

When youre done, make sure you warm up the transmission and recheck the hot mark on the dipstick, the cold mark is way off.

The main idea is to get the old fluid out of the radiator cooler as well as out of the sump on the transaxle. You wont get all of it. And to spend quality time with your car.

from my understanding hot oil carries the particulates out better

from my understanding hot oil carries the particulates out better

Yes, I agree. It would be a good idea to at least warm up the car a little and stir up the fluid.

Last time I did this the hose came off the radiator because the oil pressure was stronger than I had expected. Operating temperature is way too hot for someone inexperienced like me. I generally prefer to stay away from scalding liquids. If I think that this is causing a sludge build up then I would prefer to change the fluid more often.

Don't get the oil hot, just warm. Like when you change the engine oil. Warming it up a bit makes it a little bit thinner and it's easier to get more of it out of the system.

When I flushed mine using the manual guide, I used a bent pipe cleaner thru the sump plug hole to wipe over the insides of the sump....got a bit of sludgy stuff from there but nothing dramatic. Mine was a first change at 100,000km.

straight from the mitsu service man

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID
REPLACEMENT
With the ATF at normal operating temperature, replace the
ATF using the following procedure.
1. Remove the right hand hose connecting the transmission
oil cooler pipe to the oil cooler (built in to the bottom
of the radiator).
2. Connect a suitable length of hose from the radiator cooler
pipe to an oil drain receptacle, large enough to hold the
quantity of discharged fluid.
3. Start the engine and discharge the ATF.
Operating conditions: “N” Neutral gear and idling.
Caution
Start the engine and then stop it within one minute. If
the ATF is discharged before the one minute elapses,
stop the engine at that time.
Amount of ATF discharged: Approximately 4.5 (litres)
4. Remove the drain plug at the bottom of the transmission
case and discharge the ATF.
Amount of ATF discharged: Approximately 1.0 (litre)
5. Install the drain plug and gasket, applying the specified
amount of torque.
Tightening torque: 32 Nm
6. Fill with new ATF through the oil filler tube.
Amount of ATF added: Approximately 5.5 (litres)
NOTE
Stop pouring if the entire amount of new ATF cannot
be added. (Do not exceed “COLD” level)
7. Repeat the procedure in step (3) and discharge
approximately 3.0 litres of ATF.
NOTE
Check the ATF discharged in step (8) for contamination.
If it is contaminated, repeat steps (7) and (8).
8. Add the new ATF through the oil filler tube.
Amount of ATF added: Approximately 3.0 (litres)
9. Attach and secure the hose that was disconnected in
step (1) and securely insert the oil level gauge.
10. Start the engine and let it idle for one or two minutes.
11. Move the selector lever through all gear positions, ending
in Neutral position.










Drain plug
23C AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION – On-vehicle Service
12. Make sure the ATF reaches the “COLD” mark on the oil
level gauge. If there is not enough ATF, add more.
13. Drive the car until the ATF temperature reaches normal
70–80
C and recheck the ATF level. The ATF must be
within the “HOT” range.
NOTE
The “COLD” level is for reference only and the “HOT”
level serves as the standard.
14. Securely insert the oil level gauge into the filler tube.

Thanks for that endlss.

I think I should be okay to do it now. So based on the amount of fluid needed step 7 will need to be repeated 2-3 times?

Why does the first drain take 4.5L and the following ones only take 3L?

When the engine is running and is 3-4.5L short on fluid, are there any spinning parts (torque converter/box) which are susceptible to damage?

People advise shifting through the gears to do a decent flush, when is the best time to do this in the process?

Thanks in advance

thats straight out of the service manual , the torque conveter emtys what it has (about 4-4.5 lt) the next 3 that comes out after topinging up is whats left of the old stuff idid it with two people took longer to get all the plastic crap off the bottom of the car than it did to flush it
i used 8.5 lts when i did it

Done and done, the old oil was black as hell and smelled burnt. There was also notable solid material present.

Did the flush with an oil change, car seems a lot happier. Now to drive down the f3, hopefully i put everything back on properly haha.

Wow my hands/knuckles are scuffed up

which method did you use ?
i found it was more of a pain putting the plastics on than the flush

I ended up going with the manual instructions. I wasn't quite as confident with doing it continuously. Though apart from turning the car off and on, what's the difference between doing it continuously and doing it in stages? It all gets mixed in the box and torque converter anyway right?

Btw the atf in there beforehand was gold, is that common? Also the gearbox went haywire for a few km, I guess it was relearning the new operating conditions

the converter pumps atf from the auto sump and then out to the cooler , so if you prevent it from going back in to the sump ( by taking the return line out ) it doesnt circulate, so you push new atf into the converter and the ould stuff flushes out now way it can mix

Isn't that what the manual says? Removing the cooler line, dumping, filling, dumping, filling... and spilling in my case. But you're topping up the sump (?). Or am I getting confused?

Your right just the way I explained it came out wrong

As I am also about to do my transmission,I wondered is it necessary to replace the built in filter on the Auto of a KJ II..???

the converter pumps atf from the auto sump and then out to the cooler , so if you prevent it from going back in to the sump ( by taking the return line out ) it doesnt circulate, so you push new atf into the converter and the ould stuff flushes out now way it can mix

I don't think that is correct - (but I could be wrong) - because when you remove both cooler hoses, ATF flows from both hoses, one at a higher pressure than the other. I'd guess the flow to the cooler is by-pass and not full flow and that the ATF flows from the sump to the pump then to the valve bodies and servos and the cooler all at the same time with restrictors on various bits. But like I say, I'm only guessing.

You have to split the box to get to the internal filter, and flushing it the way Mitsubishi say doesn't re circulate the old atf when doing the flush you will notice it

Yep nothing you can do about the filter mate, older models had an external filter, TJ's and KJ's don't

i'm doing mine tomorrow , so wish me luck. I've got 20L of fluid but hope to use less than 10L so i can do the other car.

Good luck mate, mine took 15L but I was hardly efficient at it haha

i did it in 9 but i had help

Bumping an old thread!

Is it possible to flush with a cheaper fluid then, fill up with expensive synthetic fluid (I'm either going to be using redline D4 or Nulon synthetic SP3)

I have done this in the past with diffs, manual trannys etc, as the price difference is around $20 for say the mineral based nulon vs the synthetic...

I would hazard a guess that you'd then need to flush out the cheaper fluid with the good stuff anyway defeating the purpose

No it is not as then you will have several litres of old fluid in the system. Just use the genuine fluid, is the best thing you can use in your auto

I would hazard a guess that you'd then need to flush out the cheaper fluid with the good stuff anyway defeating the purpose

Well that's what I had thought also, but my method of thinking was that the old fluid still remains in the tranny also and if it wasn't the good synthetic stuff and just generic dexron III etc it would still remain within the tranny also?

No it is not as then you will have several litres of old fluid in the system. Just use the genuine fluid, is the best thing you can use in your auto

Hmm well I can get 12L of redline D4 or Nulon synthetic SP3 for $130 (and I can use the leftovers in my old mans VE as both the nulon & redline are compatible albeit if I buy penrite their SP3 fluid is not compatiable with the VE)and I had read a comment made by you the nulon SP3 fluid is essentially the same as the mistu stuff (along with penrite also by memory?)

When I went to buy genuine Mitsubishi ATF about 2 months ago it was $44 per 5L.
Ended up needing 15L to flush + fill (a transmission specialist did the work).

So it doesn't seem like you'd be making a saving at all

When I went to buy genuine Mitsubishi ATF about 2 months ago it was $44 per 5L.
Ended up needing 15L to flush + fill (a transmission specialist did the work).

So it doesn't seem like you'd be making a saving at all

Oh ok that doesn't sound too bad! I would have thought the oem fluid would have been a lot more than that in 2013 (guys mentioned back in 2010 they were paying that much)

Well I called my local mistu dealer (klosters mitsu) and they sell it for $42.75 (forgot to ask if that included gst though!)

So I guess I will just grab 15L of that stuff!

I bought 20L just in case but refunded 5L (just so you don't get stuck without enough oil)

I bought 20L just in case but refunded 5L (just so you don't get stuck without enough oil)

Well I had only picked up another magna yesterday (was driving a POS verada-decided to offload that and get a TJ magna wagon) and had assumed the owner hadn't changed it for a few years. When i got home today i checked the AT dipstick and the fluid looks clean....

The service book is sketchy as every service is just stamped no ticks in the boxes to state what was done... The last service recorded in the logbook was done at 196k kays back in Oct 2011 by the book (the windscreen sticker states next service due Nov 13 219k kays so im guessing a service was done in late 2012) shall I just bite the bullet and do the at fluid for a peace of mind?

The old gal has quite a few oil leaks, and the owner couldn't recall changing the timing belt so im up for an expensive service soon!

Is the Nulon multi vehicle ATF OK? says it suits Magnas on the label

Is the Nulon multi vehicle ATF OK? says it suits Magnas on the label

In the end as Mitsubishi genuine fluid is no more expensive so why not go OEM?

In the end as Mitsubishi genuine fluid is no more expensive so why not go OEM?

Very true

Took mine to the local Toyota (closest) service centre...charged me $75 (trade price for 10L mitsi genuine fluid) and $50 labour....well worth it (the $50 labour) for the lack of scraped knuckles etc...
What came out was nothing short of molasses....
As with others in this thread...gearbox went weird for first 10-20km, then has been flawless and smooth as silk.

You sure it was trade price at $75? I paid $40 retail per 5 litre genuine atf sp3 at mitsubishi in frankston (melbourne)

Yes, the $75 was for 10L....but $5 (difference) is $5..better in my pocket !

Just thought id ask, cause it just seems weird that at trade price, selling it you only make $5, hows that allow for profit or gst to be added?

I still havent flushed my tranny, but noticed SCA have their mohican full synthetic on sale for $36 for 5L which is mitsu SPIII approved:

http://media.supercheapauto.com.au/sca/images/344506.jpg

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Chief-Mohican-Auto-Transmission-Fluid-Synthetic-Multi-Vehicle-5-Litre.aspx?pid=344506&menuFrom=60201#Cross

specs:

http://media.supercheapauto.com.au/sca/files/user/content/chief-oils/tds/344507.pdf

I wouldn't risk it. Should be able to find the genuine fluid for not much more than that.

Hmmm. I buy 60l drums from the dealerships for a very good reason

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_112240/article.html

Hi Madmagna
I have a 2001 Verada 3.5 KJ V6 AUTO has done now 263262kms on odo.
In the morning when I start the engine (COLD) and put it into drive (or reverse) it makes a grinding/growling sound. But when it reaches operating temp or gets warm it doesn't make any sound like that.

I am thinking what makes the sound Engine or Transmission ?
I got the trans fluid changed by ABS 10,000kms before and from then that sound has gone low but still there.
Also I have changed the engine oil and filter three times within 15000kms coz there was sludge build up in engine (sludge is now less).
Also I have used Nulon engine flush in my first two services and Liqui Moly engine flush in my last service also in my last service I have added Liqui Moly MOS2 Friction Reducer in the engine oil.
Please Help