I just came across a set of 6G75 forged conrods,so can anyone tell me if these will definitely fit the aus spec 6G75?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290412619044&viewitem=&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26its%3DI%26otn%3D2&category=33623

Cheers

It even say's there it fit's the australian spec 380's....

;1256513']It even say's there it fit's the australian spec 380's....

Yes i did read that however you can't always believe what you read so i've asked for confirmation here.

Tuffy you wouldn't happen to of come across a supplier of forged pistons for the above engine while on the 3si forum's by chance?

The OEM conrods in the 6G72 and '74 are forged anyway. Aren't the '75 and '74 rod the same? The '74 had 'thin' (my TJ2 awd did) and 'thick' rods. A newcastle member had Argo make a set of forged rods (thick) and there were identical in weight to the std oem item. There's yet to be a reported conrod failure due to the actual conrod - i.e. not a seized piston etc. Seems a solid waste of money.

The OEM conrods in the 6G72 and '74 are forged anyway. Aren't the '75 and '74 rod the same? The '74 had 'thin' (my TJ2 awd did) and 'thick' rods. A newcastle member had Argo make a set of forged rods (thick) and there were identical in weight to the std oem item. There's yet to be a reported conrod failure due to the actual conrod - i.e. not a seized piston etc. Seems a solid waste of money.

A waste even in a high boost engine?

If going by what EZ say's and they are forged, I'd probably just get them balanced....then technically even OEM won't they be forged and balanced? and as he said, Have never heard of a conrod failure... moreso piston or crank failures.

Ok that saves me 8-900 thanks.

Get the whole assembly balanced to the finest tolerance you can afford. I got my bottom end done to 0.2grams, it only cost a couple of greenbacks. ARP rod bolts, quality bearings and lots of oil. If you're expecting to push stupid amounts of boost thru then a set of custom forged rods *might* be worth doing - or less boost and a better cam profile for less money ;) . OEM are I-beam, there are all sort of claims to greatness for different profiles to increase strength and minimise potential stress points on the rod.

Get the whole assembly balanced to the finest tolerance you can afford. I got my bottom end done to 0.2grams, it only cost a couple of greenbacks. ARP rod bolts, quality bearings and lots of oil. If you're expecting to push stupid amounts of boost thru then a set of custom forged rods *might* be worth doing - or less boost and a better cam profile for less money ;) . OEM are I-beam, there are all sort of claims to greatness for different profiles to increase strength and minimise potential stress points on the rod.

Yer i was planning on getting the whole lot balanced.Is 0.2g about as far as you need to go on a street engine?

Some aggresive cams would be nice however as far as i'm aware nobody can produce consistently good ones,so i'm thinking of sticking with the standard 6G75/Ralliart cams with some Fidenza adjustable cams and having them setup for an aggresive topend,but i'm open to other ideas.

why not set the cams up for a strong bottom end when off boost?

why not set the cams up for a strong bottom end when off boost?

To put it simply drivability..i'd like to be able to putt around at low revs without having to fight the car the whole time.

PM Sent...

I have only seen one rod go but this was because the owner of the car picked up a heap of water from one of those dumb CAI kits and locked up the engine

In so far as these rods go, they are already strong, if as above you are going to run high boost, chat to Ego as he is there and doing exactly that now

.... with PAR conrods

.... with PAR conrods

And a 3L as well, which have weaker roads from factory than the 3.5L....

On this note, any of you guys know if the the rods fitted to jap spec dohc/ dohc Mivec engines are the same as aussie made 3L/3.5L? i presume the rods were locally made by mitsi Aus?