I have noticed a few threads on here indicating what a pain it is to remove a Magna fuel filter without the little plastic tool. I have tried at a few local auto spares shops (repco, malz), but haven't had any luck getting one.

Does anyone know where I may get one. If not, is to possible to make make something out of household bits and pieces that may work. A description or photo of the tool would be appreciated.

Otherwise, can someone provide a reasonably foolproof way of getting the filter off without the tool (btw, the replacement filter I bought comes with the little plastic clip).

I note that the nut on the top of the original fuel filter has small notches on each corner of the hex head. Such marks often indicate a left hand thread. This isn't the case for the fuel filter, is it??


Thanks

i was under the same impression and went on a search for one but with no choice decided to give it a go without one, well lets just say on the 1st attempt i got covered in fuel as it was rather easy to release by hand, i had more trouble undoing the fuel line itself.

the nack to it is squeeze the clip and in one fast motion push it to the filter and pull it away from the filter almost like using a stamp type motion it will pop rite off, if you still need one they are one ebay as well

Thanks for advice PeteW. I'll give it a try next weekend.

When you say to squeeze the clip, I assume you mean to squeeze the rubber outer plug. or do you need to poke something into the plug to depress the tabs on the plastic clip. Is finger pressure adequate, or is it a plier / multigrip job.

I picked up a generic "fuel line disconnect tool" for a few dollars today (similar to the one in the attached pic), but somehow I am guessing that this is not the right tool for magnas - can anyone confirm this.

Thanks

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2009/08/TBirdSystemax/images/Fuel_line_tool.jpg

i went to do mine on the weekend and gave up , couldnt get the plastic end off - but the other end was fine with a flare spanner. the PDF manual made it look easy . push clip towards filter , squeeze tabs , remove by pulling away from filter. i mustave done something wrong.

i went to do mine on the weekend and gave up , couldnt get the plastic end off - but the other end was fine with a flare spanner. the PDF manual made it look easy . push clip towards filter , squeeze tabs , remove by pulling away from filter. i mustave done something wrong.

I had been more dwelling on the clip end of the filter, and had not given much thought to the other end. Do you think a flare spanner is necessary, or should a normal open ended do the trick.

Can anyone offer a comment on whether the image I posted above is for the correct tool


Do you know where I may find a link to the PDF manual for a TF. I have found links for other models on this site, but TE, TF appears to be missing.

Thanks

Here is a pix of what you do with Commodore quick release fuel lines...dunno if they're the same.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=oldhako&target=PHOTO&id=5477713797323836962&aid=5477713773410470593&authkey=Gv1sRgCNG_77Hq49u3UA&feat=email

Both pics are for the wrong sort of line, these ones are very different to the listed ones. I have seen them at Ripco, supercrap and crapobahn so they should not be hard to get

For the 14mm flare nut ALWAYS use a good quality flare nut spanner

Both pics are for the wrong sort of line, these ones are very different to the listed ones. I have seen them at Ripco, supercrap and crapobahn so they should not be hard to get

For the 14mm flare nut ALWAYS use a good quality flare nut spanner

Any chance of a bit more description/pix of what it looks like - asking for help in supercrap etc is usually fruitless. Also would it be OK to grind a slot in a 14mm ring instead of buying a set of flare nut spanners or is the nut so tight it needs the real McCoy. Thanks.

the correct 14mm flare spanner is best , gives you a proper hex head to grip the nut with.
slotting a ring spanner will just make the ring "open up" and bugger the flare nut.

Any chance of a bit more description/pix of what it looks like - asking for help in supercrap etc is usually fruitless. Also would it be OK to grind a slot in a 14mm ring instead of buying a set of flare nut spanners or is the nut so tight it needs the real McCoy. Thanks.

+1 to the above request for a pic of the tool.

I have found quite a few old filter threads where others have asked for a pic or description, but nobody has been able to oblige. It appears that one may have once contained a link but it has since disappeared.

btw, judging by the shape of the plastic inner clip, I suspect that the mangled biro top in the image that Hako linked may do the trick (??).

Did a bit of a search and found a site which carries this tool - apparently it fits Commodores,Falcons etc and appears just to be a piece of plastic like the top of a Biro (!)...no price however. It's on page 10 of this list and the item is No.J4404-4.
http://www.tetools.com/Catalogue-PDF/%2806%29%20General%20Tools.pdf

Also found another site which suggests that Repco carries the same item.

Regarding flare spanners - checked in SuperCheap for flare nut spanners - they have one set ~$28 and it is 100% exactly the same as their $9 set cheap and nasty ring/open end spanners made in the PRC but with a slot cut. Guess what I'm going to do.

Edit..more links: http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vz-holden-commodore-2004-2006/103645-removing-fuel-line.html
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vt-vx-holden-commodore-1997-2002/59865-fuel-filter.html

Thanks for the links Hako.

The clip on that Commodore filter looks identical to what I think mine will look like once I scrape off the grease and grime.

I agree, it looks like any piece of split tube of about 10-15mm diam should be able to depress the tangs. The tool I have is the same as the one on bottom left of page 10 (the scissor-shaped thing). I am holding out some faint hope that the cylinder on either end will slip in under the rubber cap and compress the tangs. I'll try it on the weekend and report back if successful.

I may also try hacking a $9 supercheap ring set for the flare spanner. I am sure that it will complement perfectly the $1 19mm that I recently bought there for the top nut. I kind of expect that these spanners will self-destruct before the nuts round over.

There is a picture of the tool(s) on page 10 of this manual - they also fit Falcons and Commodores.: http://www.tetools.com/Catalogue-PDF/%2806%29%20General%20Tools.pdf

Hey guys, thanks for the information. Mongrel job, thought it was just me.

Two things I have found: First, this filter is under the car and covered with dirt and sand. Makes a tricky job even more annoying. Dont want that rubbish getting into the fuel lines. Last time, I blasted the whole area clean with the garden hose. Did it the night before so it had time to dry. Second, this squeeze clip is hard to get off but when you put it back onto the new filter it can feel loose and unsafe. The battle to get it off widens it I guess. I put a hose clamp over the top of mine and that made it lock on solid.

Just an update for those attempting to do this, and wondering about tools etc.

It takes just a few minutes to depressurise the fuel system, and is well worth doing based on the number of comments about getting covered in petrol. The back seat cushion undoes by releasing two spring clips. Just disconnect the pump wire under the access plate and run the engine for a few seconds.

Under the access plate, there is also a fuel line connector that is the same type as that fitted to the filter. I found it a lot easier inspecting this to work out the clip mechanism than trying to inspect the grime covered filter clip while grovelling around under the car with a torch.

I am glad I ended up getting a 14mm flare for the line-end nut – it was extremely tight.

I did not need a special tool to remove the clip. I used a pair of those skinny slip-lock pliers (the type included in incredibly cheap toolkits) to depress the clip, and the filter pulled straight out.

My replacement filter was a FaF, and it came with a replacement clip. However, this clip was significantly different to the original (the filter was identical). I could not see how it would slot in, and I had to use the original clip.

Clip turned out to be more of a pain to get back on than take off. I needed to first seat the plastic inner clip in the holder, making sure it was rotated to align with the tab slots, and then pushed the filter pipe into it. Fitting the inner clip to the pipe first and then attempting to insert it didn’t work.

My clip didn't come apart very well at all, and I was totally pissed of when I found the replacement insert in the box was about half as big again as the one on the car. No use at all. Rang the shop and they just said you don't use it anyway and that was the end of the discussion.