My wifes TF wagon seems to accumulate water down one side of the boot. With the heavy rain we have been having the carpet is soaked on one side and I have had to dry out the wheel well.

Anyone have similar experiences?

I think tomorrow I will remove all trim and brake light and possibly do the talcum powder test to trace it unless someone has a better idea..........

Hi Sam 350

I also have exactly the same problem with a TF 1997 Wagon and like you it seems to enter on one side and I have to drain the wheel well if the vehicle is out in the rain. I am guessing that a leaking rear side window may be the culprit but have not had a chance to investigate yet.

Check your drainage holes for blockage first. Water could be running in from the light assembly or the window seal. Which side is the leak? The antenna and fuel filler cap side or the other side?

My TJ sedan does the same thing. Mines on the antenna/filler cap side. I just don't leave it in the rain anymore :)

open boot, get a hose, and pour water in the gutters, this should show where the leak was from.
remove that wood cover the the left side, (under the carpet) chances are its full of water down there, there is a drainage hole that is covered by a grommit.
EDIT: opps, you have a wagon,

I think i remember reading on here, that the Side rear windows in the wagons, leak occasionally and need to be sealed back up again?

Could be your problem there.

Yeah the 99 TH wagon I bought had the same problem (before i bought it) and the previous owner had all the rubbers ( around boot windows and door windows) replaced. Just watch when they're getting replaced that the doors close properly again. My drivers door window catches occasionally on the new rubber at top.

Hi Sam 350

I also have exactly the same problem with a TF 1997 Wagon and like you it seems to enter on one side and I have to drain the wheel well if the vehicle is out in the rain. I am guessing that a leaking rear side window may be the culprit but have not had a chance to investigate yet.

3 points to you my man ! Pulled out the trim and it was leaking around the top of the side window. Pulled them out, re sealed and replaced. Problem solved !

I was very disappointed with the standard window sealing. It is a strip of black 2 way tape about the thickness of a pen refil. I have re sealed with 5 lines of window sealant so I know it wont leak again.

my th leaks through drivers side front anyone else

I was very disappointed with the standard window sealing. It is a strip of black 2 way tape about the thickness of a pen refil. I have re sealed with 5 lines of window sealant so I know it wont leak again.

I really hope that you did not use a setting sealant for your own sake as it will never come out again if need be and the flex of the body will in the end crack the sealant and your leaks will be back

This has been covered many times here on the forums by myself and others, you only need one line of sealant, using 5 is like shooting a flea with an elepant gun :)

Use non setting Mastik, one line right around and then you will have no more leaks

I really hope that you did not use a setting sealant for your own sake
using 5 is like shooting a flea with an elepant gun :)

Well I will have a very dead flea , and I used window sealant. Wanted it well sealed as the sub I run can do 140-145db easy so I thought better overseal than underseal.

stripped..
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o182/sjh350/IMG_0619.jpg


Retinted..
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o182/sjh350/IMG_0630.jpg

Sealant..
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o182/sjh350/IMG_0631.jpg

Hi Sam 350 - the wet wethaer in Melbourne has filled up the boot with water in my tj wagon. Kean to try your fix - you say "Pulled out the trim and it was leaking around the top of the side window. Pulled them out, re sealed and replaced".

Do you mean the trim on the inside or outside of the back window ? The windows then pull out from inside or outside? What sort of sealant did you use - something silicone from Bunnings ?

Cheers from Luckyphil1957.

Hi Sam 350 - I have just noticed the bottom of of the thread - seen the pictures - all is revealed !

Please if not too late DO NOT seal like that, if you get another leak the windows will never come out in 1 peice

As you are in Melb, I can seal properly for you, is about 2 hours work but will be done properly

If you do yourself, do not use sealant that hardens, use Mastik and apply to the window, not the car, you apply it to where the old foam seal was before you removed it

Hey Madmagna, my first post here, great forum!. I have a KJ Verada Wagon that was leaking badly. Turns out the nuts were only on finger tight so that didn't help with weather tightness. Understand why you shouldn't use a sealant that gets hard and brittle when set, but what about a flexible silicon rubber sealant like Sealey's Window and Glass? What do you think, would this type of rubber sealant resist body flex/vibration from your experience? Tks Dave

You should NEVER use a silicone sealant on a car, it is the best way to have your car fall apart with rust, Silicone is acidic and will eat the car alive, I always have a good laugh at people who use silicone despite being told not to hand hope like hell they are never in an accident and have the car fall apart....

The method above is totally wrong and given that I have been doing these windows for many years and am yet to have one leak again, well what more can I say

All you do, remove the glass, remove the old foam tape Mits used, ALONG THE SAME LINE THE TAPE was, run a good bead of Mastic, there is a non skinning mastic avail from most auto shops, bolt shops, even sometimes bunnings, I use the Bostic brand

Refit the window, nip up the nuts and will be good for longer than the car is lilely to be around for

SikaFlex 255 and SikaTack Drive are also suitable both being polyurethane based and not silicone.

You should always run a relatively thick single continuous bead as it will spread out when the glass is applied and form a proper seal. Multiple thin beads will leave gaps and air bubbles and lead to leaks further down the line.

SikaFlex 255 and SikaTack Drive are also suitable both being polyurethane based and not silicone.

You should always run a relatively thick single continuous bead as it will spread out when the glass is applied and form a proper seal. Multiple thin beads will leave gaps and air bubbles and lead to leaks further down the line.

Will not harm the car but if ever these windows need to come out again you are in big trouble, thus why they are bolted in, the only issue was the seal that the boys in Mits used lol

Will not harm the car but if ever these windows need to come out again you are in big trouble, thus why they are bolted in, the only issue was the seal that the boys in Mits used lol

Can't win 'em all lol.

OK thanks guys, very helpful advice, cheers Dave.