ok this is drivin me insane, when i start my car in the mornin i get that annoyingly loud ticking sound which by process of elimination is my belt tensioner thingy. but for some reason it hunts from around 500rmp to roughly 1500rpm for the first minute or so, and it will make it self stall atleast 3 times in that space???
ive done all the searches, hence ive flushed my oil and put tappet cleaner in (actually made some diff when the car is warm, but not cold) and ive cleaned that 1 way breather hose that comes of the rocker cover (made no diff!)
really hope some1 has a solution
cheers
james

You are not by any chance putting in that petrol E10 rubbish in your car are you? How many K's have you done?

Could be the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) playing up, not telling the ECU that the pedal input is nil, and therefor running off the oxygen sensor (causing it to cycle between rich/lean, which makes the idle hunt).

I had this exact thing with my Feroza (recently sold), the TPS needed a slight adjustment and problem solved (forever).

Another culprit could be the lovely Idle Air Valve/motor (aka IAC or IAV), if this is gummed up, faulty or slow responding the ECU cannot successfully keep the engine at a stable idle.

have you tried cleaning the throttle body and checking the IAV as suggested above? that's where i'd look next :)

Feel free to book it in for a look over]

Can be a few things, mostly TB related

Rattle, if is a cold start rattle is most likely your timing belt tensioner, this needs to be replaced

How many Km's your car done?

is the tensioner easy enough to replace? mine makes the sound sometimes on cold start. 3.5l.

nah i dont use that e10 crap! the cars done 300k (no im not kiddin) but im fairly sure its been reco'd seein as once its warm it runs like a dream....
where is the tps located, and how do you adjust it? also where is the iav, and whats a tb? sorry guys not all that sure lol could i use carby cleaner to clean the iav and the throttle body? and if so how?
sorry to be so annoyin, im just new to this whole bein my own mechanic thing :P
if any1 has pics of where these things are it would help heaps, cheers!!

A TB is a Throttle Body.

The tensioner as far as I know isn't easy to replace, its usually done when you have your timing belt changed.

But James my VRX has done 220,000km and runs similar, once warm its perfect, when cold it does feel a bit rough. I make it smoother by using thicker oil and also putting additives like Nulon Performance engine treatment. Its ment to reduce damage on cold starts and also kinda just quietens all the rattles and clicks. And also I do my changes ever 5000kms so theres always fairly fresh oil in there.

300k is actually not much as long as the car has been serviced well, AND treated well. The mileage of the engine suggests wear and tear issues. Like the rest on this forum, i reckon you have some petrol gummed up within the throttle body or other components in there. The rattle is nothing to worry too much about. When you get the Timing belt changed (which should be due now anyway), get the tensioner changed. Mine has already started to rattle at 95k on a TW VRX.

ok i pulled off the tb and throughly cleaned it with nulon tb cleaner....300k throttle body dont look so pretty lol..... anyways, she dont hunt no more(thanx guys:P)
but for some reason it stalls the first time i try to start it? the revs goes up to neally 2 then stalls
???wtf???
always starts the second time tho?
any ideas?

Idle Air Valve/Control - either stuffed or lost its setting. Disconnect battery, reconnect, start car and hold revs at 2000rpm for 10 sec then let your foot all the way off the pedal, let it find its way down to a stable idle, let it idle for a bit then turn it off. Start it again with no foot input, see how that goes.

its the BEM connector, its a little dodgy in tj's from what i've gathered.
Just follow this http://martybugs.net/articles/magna-stall.cgi
Fixed the stalling with my vr-x
(hint: that box slides off a metal bracket, so you may be able to slide it off without taking off the plastic footwell dash cover thingo)
I was just glad its such an easy fix for the problem, too bad that i found it after killing my battery, twice :tired:

its the BEM connector, its a little dodgy in tj's from what i've gathered.
Just follow this http://martybugs.net/articles/magna-stall.cgi
Fixed the stalling with my vr-x
(hint: that box slides off a metal bracket, so you may be able to slide it off without taking off the plastic footwell dash cover thingo)
I was just glad its such an easy fix for the problem, too bad that i found it after killing my battery, twice :tired:
ok so i tried unpluging and putting it back, with the problem still there so ive sprayed some tb cleaner onto the plugs where the wires are and waiting for it to dry...its dry...... "insert large amounts of swearing and aggression here"............ no luck still, just continues to stall...
HELP?

Idle Air Valve/Control - either stuffed or lost its setting. Disconnect battery, reconnect, start car and hold revs at 2000rpm for 10 sec then let your foot all the way off the pedal, let it find its way down to a stable idle, let it idle for a bit then turn it off. Start it again with no foot input, see how that goes.

hmmm...no luck there either..........any other ideas?

When you start it, does it A) idle high then drop down and stall or B) it's just hard to start and requires pedal input to keep it alive?

If A, IAC/IAV is acting too slow or faulty. If B, IAC/IAV is disconnected, bad wiring or stuffed.

yeh i turn the key, the idol instantly goes just b4 2 and straight back down and stalls all happens in about 1sec.... tryin to give it revs makes no diff it still just stalls...
IAC/IAV where and what is it.....

Feel free to book it in for a look over]

Can be a few things, mostly TB related

Rattle, if is a cold start rattle is most likely your timing belt tensioner, this needs to be replaced

Hey Madmagna,

To change the timing belt tensioner, would that involve alot of work?

Im guessing it will be.... because having the timing belt changed when its due requires alot of work.

If one was to go about getting the tensioner changed, how much would it set them back $$??