Hi all,
i have recently installed an amp and sub in my 380 GT.

The way i set it up was to use a high/low converter from the rear speakers and then ran the four rca to the amp and fed the wires back to the rears and sub,.and i have picked up the power on/off feed from the acc/ciggy socket


So the four channel Alpine amp powers the rears and the sub...i have turned the gain up on the sub to get bass and have had to turn it down on the rears ,as it was overpowering the fronts...is this the right way to "tune " it...

..it now gives good bass and the rears finally work...

so....the question is..when i turn the car off,you can hear a "whump,thump..." sound from the rear speakers/amp.

..
im assuming its obviously the amp shitting down...is there a way to reduce this noise, or is it just the way it is...

If I were you, I'd try and run the fronts off the amp and upgrade them to splits. You'll get a much better sound stage that way opposed to amping the rears and sub, which in effect just pumps a lot of bass.

Mike, are you amping the stock 6x9s? I wouldnt think you are, but just curious. I have Alpine 6x9s and they sound absolutely brilliant with the stock VRX/GT headunit.

If I were you, I'd try and run the fronts off the amp and upgrade them to splits. You'll get a much better sound stage that way opposed to amping the rears and sub, which in effect just pumps a lot of bass.


front of the 380 already has spilts....and the bass isnt that bad...it adjusts through the head unit


Mike, are you amping the stock 6x9s? I wouldn't think you are, but just curious. I have Alpine 6x9s and they sound absolutely brilliant with the stock VRX/GT head-unit.

No,i have a set of Kenwoods in there...when they were powered by the head unit ,they were shit,now there is some "power" driving them,they sound great,so much,that if they weren't adjusted right,they over power the fronts....

next..question still not answered...lol

I would have a chat to Matt (Mchenry), I know he has a sub installed, so he might be able to help you out.

Hold Everything....

You running the Amp off the Ciggy Power output ????
Please tell me there is a minimum of an 8 Gauge power wire running directly to the Battery through a fusible link !

I need to be sure you have not powered it straight off the Ciggy output as this is a big no no.

i have picked up the power on/off feed from the acc/ciggy socket




Hold Everything....

You running the Amp off the Ciggy Power output ????
Please tell me there is a minimum of an 8 Gauge power wire running directly to the Battery through a fusible link !

I think he using that as an accessory switch to turn the amp on, not actually power it.

Hi all,
i have recently installed an amp and sub in my 380 GT.

i have picked up the power on/off feed from the acc/ciggy socket
.


Hold Everything....

You running the Amp off the Ciggy Power output ????
Please tell me there is a minimum of an 8 Gauge power wire running directly to the Battery through a fusible link !

duh...........think im stupid...........power comes from battery using an Amp power kit......gee....

You would be suprised.. I have seen amps being fed from Bootlights..

Sounds like your experiencing pop noise..
There used to be a soft turn on/Off Device you could buy to eliminate this..

Taken from Fhrx website.

As you power-down, transient signals in the processor sometimes find their way into the signal path. The amp transmits them to the speakers, and POP! Add some "turn off delay" to your head unit. See your manual, or your installer. Or, read this: You can add delay by adding a 1N4004 diode in series with the processor's turn-on lead, with the striped side towards the equalizer. Then add a capacitor in parallel, the (+) side of the cap to the striped (processor) side of the diode; the (-) side of the cap to ground (not the radio or eq chassis, connect it directly to the car chassis). Fiddle with the cap value to get the amount of delay you need before the eq shuts off; not too long, just long enough to make sure the amp is off before the eq powers down (220 - 1000 uF). Make sure the cap is a polarized electrolytic, 16V or higher, and remember that the diode introduces a 0.7V drop on the remote wire, which can cause the processor to power down before the rest of the system.