:eek2:Replaced heater core yesterday,so had to remove whole dash etc.Disconnected battery before starting job,was a bugger of the job.Anyway,put everything back together.1 mistake I made was I disconnected the the positive(not the negative on the battery as per workshop manual)not sure if that is a issue.The other thing is that there is a component that I honestly cant remember where it was mounted.It stayed wired up and I think it was behind the glovebox.Its a small black 1 inch square plastic component with what looks like a dumbell symbol on it.It has a thin metal bracket about 6 inches long and 1 wire running out of it.It seems like it should be mounted upright and it can wobble around(maybe something to do with the safety system for roll over etc?)Also had to remove plug from back of ECU.When putting everything back there are 2 plugs that fit into the same port?1 is on its own with lots of different colour wires,and the other is part of a loom with mainly green wires and a male and female plug with same fittings.If 1 was to put the on its own one in the loom ones have nowhere to go,so I think its reasonable that the one on its own goes into the accepting port in the loom and the other plug in the loom goes into the ECU,so everything is pluged in somewhere.Everything works,but ECU light is on for 7or so seconds then goes out then then goes on and stays on.Wont start.Please help.Only had the car 2 weeks:

Battery can be disconnected from either terminal, doesn't matter. The under dash area is very busy and complicated, you really need to look (and remember) where everything goes and plugs in when you pull things apart. Masking tape labels help a lot, even photographs. If you rush a complex job like this you often end up with problems on reassembly. I can't help ypu, hopefully someone familiar with the TJ dash innards will chime in.

First of all welcome to amc

Now, your post was a bit hard to read due to it being all condensed BUT from what I can gather you are confused with the plug arrangement. LIttle late to tell you to take more notice as the job has been done now

One thing with Magna's is that pretty much each plug is a different shape and size so only one fits each plug. As you have a GTV, you prob have sat nav, this double plug I THINK you are referring to is one of a grout behind your ashtray? If so, there will be a short plug with about 2 inches of wire connecting back to another female plug, this is the loom that goes to the sat nav control unit and was pretty much a patch in to get the sat nav fitted in the factory.

As for ECU, not sure why you had to unplug that, have done dozens of these and never had to unles the ECU was wet and needed to be dried out. There are 4 plugs into the ECU, next to the ECU on the metal frame is another double relay block and mounted on the ecu bracket there is a single relay block. All of these need to be plugged in to work

The "stick" is most likely the antenna for the GPS, if you have GPS that is, a pic would help (photobucket is your best mate here lol)

Also, this plug where 2 fit into the same port, need pics bud as the ECU has 4 DIFFERENT plugs,

That would be a good start, perhaps also down load or search for the method to do a fault code reading, this may in itself show you what is going on

I assume the engine cranks, do you have the BEM plugged in, do you have the transponder ring pluged in from the ignition switch?

Thanx for your reply.We did a diagnostic and it indicated on for about 7 seconds then off for say 4 seconds then on for good.Yes thestick is the gps antenna as you said.The female plug for the ECU in question is the one on the right with the most wires that is mounted on the connector mounting bracket that spans between the 2 centre stay assemblies.No plugs wer taken out of the actual ECU unit itself.Therefore from your info,the male plug that comes from the main yellow loom,should go into this female plug on the bracket.Yes the other same size male plug is connected to a female socket about 2 inches apart on the same loom.There is nowhere for these to plug into but themselves.Do I leave these apart or connect them.I still need to double check the transponder ring.I'll check that soon.
Thanks

Yeah, my post was pretty useless after the fact. It was more of a heads up for anyone who pulls their dash out without taking too much notice of where things bolt on or plug in. Masking tape and a texta to label things that need to match/join up.

Ive learn my lesson,Tried isolating the 2 plugs on the same loop.and the nav doesnt work,and still wouldnt start.Im sure I have the wiring right now with the plug coming from the main line(yellow cables)into the corresponding plug on the twin plug loop,and the other plug from this loop into the corresponding female socket on the mounting bracket.Now everything electrical works.Car still wont start,and a diagnostic still shows engine light on for a short time then off for a short time then on and staying on,so it looks like that somehow Ive killed the ECU.
Does anyone know where to get one,or does anyone have 1 for sale,from what I can see its part number MR 507346
Thanks

I have plenty of ECU's, that is not a worry but I doubt you have killed your ecu

Get me a pic of the plug you are talking abotu and we can go from there

Here is 5 photos of the wiring in question.#1 has the male and female plugs on the same loom,#2 has the single plug that comes from the wiring loom shown in #4 photo,#3 phot show plug on bracket that goes down to the ECU,#5 shows how I think it all goes together,ie#2 plug into female plug in #1,then male plug from #1 joint loom into female plug in #3 photo.Hope thats not to confusing.Further info is,did a spark check and all is good with a strong spark,checked the fuel system and engine relays mounted on side of floor console and they seemed good,check all fuses and fusible links,all good?It seems a fuel problem,so could it be something in the ECU not activating the fuel system,injectors etc,or could the fuel pump have packed it in when power was turned off?
Regards[IMG]
Photos can be seen at below Http
http://s1008.photobucket.com/albums/af204/fatma31/Verada%20GTV/

Looking at the pics, the "patch" harness is your GPS harness, this can be left out if you wish however the barness coming from the ECU harness back to the main harness (one that comes from the white plastic casing) MUST be connected or you will not have the car start

The yellow loom, will have some yellow overing on it as well, that is your SRS loom

All along the wiring has been right.Did diagnosis and it came up with code 44 and 54.44 being ign coil and power transister,54 being immobiliser.I think 1 may be related to the other as it sparks ok,and the immobilser being the main problem.Did a continuety check on the approriate wires,plugs and all ok.Then I read somewhere in the repair manual,to make sure ignistion is off and light system is off(doors closed etc) before diconnecting the battery.Crud I think I had the door open when I disconnected the battery and reconnected it(had to pop the bonnet).So I think Ive damaged the BCM/immobilser.The ECU seems to do everything ok after all that.Any advise before I get it all back together and get it towed to Mitsubishi for a new BEM/BCM,and has anyone ever had this done and what did it cost them?? Or I believe the immobiliser can be switched off somehow and that may do it?

this might seem obvious, but have you checked that the wire that plugs into the chip reading ring around the key barrel hasnt come out? when you were moving the dash around?

You can send me your ECU if you want and I can both test it and turn off the immob

Leaving doors open etc when battery comes off is not issue either. I do this daily

If you send down the ECU, I can test the ECU and tell you if it is a runner or not and we can go from there

Yep all connected.Thanx anyway.Keego.

Finally,had the car towed to Mitsubishi by NRMA.They have come back to me and said the BCM has fried itself and they need to get one,but there are none available in Aus.They need to order one from Japan and it will take 3 weeks.Also their practice is to replace all keys with new blanks,so there is no need to change locks.Im wondering if I can get a BCM to suit a ECU part number MR 507346 (it also has DOSPORTS 3.5L on it)(I forgot to write down the BCM part number).Obviously I would have to buy the whole deal,ECU,BCM,Keys etc.Then they can cut blank keys to suit my locks,ignition,and program the BCM to suit my ECU.I would then have a spare ECU.Does anyone have a kit with the above part number for sale and how much,as they are to get back to me with a quote.Other thing is Im not sure if they will like this,installing a used BCM and matching it to existing ECU.I know I may have been able to turn off immobilser,but not sure if this would have helped,and living in west sydney with that type of car without even the basic security would be a questionable thing.

As previously stated, your far cheaper option is to simply go for an unlocked ECU, I can have one unlocked and on its way far quicker than Mits will hve the BEM and then also there is no need for a new key set either

If you really want to, I should have a matching BEM and ECU here also but given you then need keys also, is quite an expensive way around

If you get ECU and BEM you can not use your BEM with the new ECU or the new BEM with your old ECU, a bem is programme once only unit

Just for an update, I do have some ECU and BEM with that part number, in short any 5sp tippy box will do the trick, these are only the mid range BEM though so you will not have the slow dim interior light.

I have located a BEM part number MR928911 (Bem Mid Series).do you reckon that will be ok to marry up to the existing ECU.Its brand new still in original packaging?

If it has ever been programmed then no, you can not use it.

How much are they chasing for the BEM?

They want 59 bucks(its on ebay).Anyway Ive done some sweet talking at Mitsubishi,and they have agreed to $235 for a new BCM from Japan to match my original specs on the GTV ,plus new keys and labour for 175 to install and program.Obviously this comes with warranty.So Im going ahead with this and they are trying to get it in before the 3 weeks,which is the only negative point,but mucking around with other idea may not work out much cheaper or quicker.

All working great now.Had car for about a week,no coolant leaks(my repair),just a problem,getting the car of my wife,and a special thanks to Sam at Nepean Motor group who was great in his service and communincations.They changed hands not so long ago and their service levels are a huge improvement from previous owners when I took my 380 VRX company car there.