Calling for ideas/experiences/recommendations for a new(or 2nd hand amp) to power my new sub. It's a 15" Alpine Type R, which has a 4ohm SVC and an RMS max of 750.
I want something on the cheaper side, doesnt bother me if its monobloc or a 2 chan and bridged and min of 500rms.
I know I can get new Alpine PDX's and some other brands around 1000wrms, but I dont want to be spending $1k on an amp.

Any input appreciated.
Luke

http://www.ryda.com.au/Car-Amplifiers-Store-s/9.htm
u can find some good cheap stuff on there

For 2nd hand, I'd suggest looking at the mobile electronics australia website as quality 2nd hand gear often pops up.
http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/forums/index.php?showforum=41

I'm using an old Rockford amp that I bought there about 4 years ago. It's at least 3rd hand now and it does the job brilliantly.

Right now I see a recent post about a Hifonics Brutus in NSW. (Hifonics used to be a big name in high end audio. IIRC: "Audio from the gods").
$375 for a monoblock that is packaged as 1x650 @ 4 ohms, 1300W @ 2 Ohms or 2000W RMS @ 1 Ohm.
That sounds like a good match for your sub IMO. Heck, I've run 2x12" Earthquake subs from a bridged 2x40W (= maybe 150W RMS) and it ran very hard, so I don't think your target of 500W RMS is short changing your sub in the slightest.

So yeah, I'd budget $300-400 to get a really good 2nd hand amp from MEA.

How much you wanna spend?

Yeah thanks guys, $3-400 would be my budget just for the amp. That amp your talking about Oggy would pretty good for it I agree. :)

Found an even more suitable amp, Soundstream Picasso 1500D for $250 has some cosmetic issues but ehh.
Its 800rms @ 4ohm which is perfect to make my sub sing loud n clear.

Thanks Oggy I forgot about MEA, use to be a avid member before the name change.

Luke

I am now quite happy(even happier once I install it), I managed to score a JBL BPX500.1 - Birthsheet states 790wrms x1 @ 4ohm. Perfect amount of power to run the new sub with a lil headroom.

Best part, was only $200!!
:woot:

Bargain...

Good amp at a good price...

Post pics up when you get her all installed.

Thought I'd try my luck posting here instead of a new thread.

I've ordered some 4awg for the power, opinions if this will be enough? Or have I f'd up? lol
Basically 4awg into a distro and then 2 8awg into the amps.
One amp is a Kicker kx200.2 (2x75wrms@4ohm) and the JBL BPX500.1 (790wrms@4ohm) so a total of 940wrms.

Other question is what rating fuse(and how do you calculate it), should I run in the line.
I knew all this stuff, but its been about 5yrs since I was seriously into Car Audio.

Thanks, Luke.

i'd prefer to say 2ga but ive run 1000w off 4ga on quite a few systems now. if you were going to be running 1kw non stop then no, the cable will get toasty and melt... but given the average draw it will see it will be fine.

Thanks Woob, any ideas on what amperage fuse I should run on the 4awg?

Running @ 70% efficiency you will need at least a 95amp fuse. Next size up is generally 120A.

Your sub amp will pull more then 8ga can handle, even at a very short length. You would need to run dual 8 wires or a single 4ga from the distro.

Thanks for that, so 120amp fuse the distro Im getting has 4 8awg outs, so ill just run two into the sub amp and one to the fronts amp. :)

Would it effect the main 4awg from the battery, if I then split to 2x 4awg? Ie one 4awg for each amp?

No with the amps you're using, it is fine to split the 4ga into 2x 4ga. Although why not just get 2ga from the battery in case you want to upgrade later?

Coz I'd already bought the 4ga :(
Bought a kit, good price but all the fittings etc are 4ga too.

Tempted to now run 0ga (5.5m of stinger for $40)
Then run 2x4ga to the amps, but Im pretty sure the Kicker only accepts upto 8ga anyway.

What I might end up doing is running 4ga - distro - 1x 8ga to kicker and 1x 4ga to JBL.

Yeah the 4ga into 1x 8ga and 1x 4ga would work ok with the amps you will be running.

You may have to upgrade if you ever run your sub amp @ 2ohm.

According to the birthsheet it actually pumps out 20wrms more in 4ohm than 2ohm, odd I know.
But reading on the net the reviews/tests say the same.

The kit comes with a 150amp fuse, that would be plenty yeah?

Thanks Mr ©harisma, been a big help.

Not odd at all - happens in a few amps.

Sorry I didn't actually look at the amps specs lol.

150A will be ok, better then no fuse. What is the total of all your fuses on your amps?

To be honest I can't tell you about the JBL, it hasn't arrived yet. lol
If I recall correctly, 2x30 on the JBL and 1x25 on the Kicker.

Ha ha that is ok.

General rule of thumb - ideal battery fuse should be the total of all your amp(s) fuses combined and add 10%. i.e. if your JBL is 2x 30A and your Kicker is 1x 25A ( 85A in total ) so 100A would be about right. Your 150A is a bit of over-kill but much better than nothing.

Here's one for you Mr Charisma, tonight I drove the car for the first time at night(dont use the car during the week much), firstly my small kicker amp just died. lol Its been on the shelf for 4 years, but I've taken care of that, got a V12 MRV-F345 on its way which ill be running the splits active off.

My other problem is more nasty and frustrating, as I was saying, I took it out tonight and had the bass up quite high. I have that dreaded headlight dipping with the bass notes, how annoying. Any tips on how to fix it?

Depending on the age of your battery, an Earthing upgrade from the negative terminal of your battery is a good start. Make sure you clean the terminals as well.

As a minimum, you should have an upgraded earth strap the same size as your power cable. Keep it as short as possible and run it straight to the chassis. The next level is an Earthing kit.

If you battery is old, a nice big replacement ( and deep cycle ) will also assist your charging system when the voltage drops.

With the draw you have from your amps, you shouldn't need to upgrade your alternator.

Thanks mate, so if I get new quality batt terminals, run a new (2ga maybe?) earth right next to the battery and a new battery, I should fix this problem?
Even though I'm pretty sure my battery is quite old, I dont really want to go a Optima for eg(unless its a last resort) as I can't justify the expense to the one who holds the power.... :ninja:

My current earthing for the amps are 4ga and 8ga, mounted to the big bolt at the bottom of the backseat in the centre.
What is involved in an Earth Kit? Any idea of rough cost?

Based on your current set up. I would do this:

Clean all terminals, add 4ga from neg terminal to chassis, check battery fluid levels, check battery voltage before and after a longish drive ( don't crank the stereo during this time - you want to try and charge it to it's full potential ).

If that doesn't work or your battery has low voltage, replace the battery with the best one you can afford.

Next step would be better terminals and an Earthing Kit.

Earthing kit consists generally of 0ga from the neg terminal to a busbar. This then generally goes into several smaller wires which feed around the engine bay. I have a kit which has 0ga into 5x 4ga. Try to ensure at least 2 go to the engine block. Cost is only for the wires / connectors / and the metal busbar.

If you would like pictures of my old one let me know ;)

Just installed the new amp, Alpine MRV-F345. Now Im all happy tuned it all up and it sounds bloody fantastic!!
Very loud and clean.

I replaced the batt earth and repositioned the amp earths.
Much better but still a very slight dulling of the lights when bass hits really hard.

Glad it has all gone well mate!!

Not sure if you have checked the condition of your battery, but that would be the next thing to update if it's not up to scratch. :D

I guess that will make you happy for a while... until the bug bites again!!!

already looking for better splits :)
need more mid kick

LOL!

What are you running now?

And how much do you think you would be looking to spend?

Running a set of Cadence ZX6M comp splits.

I'd be looking around $300-400.
Hoping to find some nice Morel, Boston, Hertz, Oz Audio, Vibes or Focals.
Having said this, I'm happy to buy quality looked after 2nd hand items too(found some awesome bargains this way).

For eg my V12 cost me $140, but wouldve been $600ish new....

Fair enough.

Have you got them mounted on an MDF panel, sound deadened etc?

The Cadence's? Any knowledge of them? I bought them 2nd hand, apparently from the Cadence Ambulance??? Hell they were only $100!
No not yet, I have a nice piece of MDF here, and I am making enquiries into a 10m roll of sound deadener, as I want to do the whole boot, rear shelf, and front doors inside and out.
I have run new decent wiring, and will clean them up.
I also have to find a way of doing the tweeters, they are in their own flush mount housing. i can't for the life of me remove grills, or the tweet itself from the plastic housing. So they are double sided taped inside the factory tweeter housing for now(dodge as hell I know).

Plan is to run the cadence for rear fill off the deck HP'd and a decent set of splits active for the fronts(with all the necessary prep work).
ATM its all just thrown in there, looks like a beast has swallowed a car audio shop, and thrown it into my boot. lol
But the wiring is quality, well joined and secure. Just looks like hell!

I've decided I'm keeping the GTV, so I dont mind spending a bit on the system....

LOL is the tweeters are moving then I wouldn't worry to much about them.

Not sure of the type of deadening you are after, we are selling the bulk pack of Option stuff for $280. Although the sheet sizes are not the same as Dynamat Xtreme, the pack has the equivalent of over 16 sheets vs a Dynamat Bulk pack which has 9. It is also heavier and thicker than the Xtreme.

Does your headunit allow you to run speakers actively or do you plan of trying to get some that allow this through there passive xovers?