Is there some trick to getting a TE Magna Distributor off the engine. I have removed the cap, two nuts, and two washers, and wiggled and pulled till the cows come home, but its barley moved! :eek2:

The actual problem is no start, or even fire, cranks fine, fuel pressure and regulator fine, injectors opening, plugs and cables fine. I do have sparks, but orange-red colour, not strong thick blue ones. I'm not sure if the spark is bad enough to prevent the engine even firing on random cylinders while cranking? I have however found a split coolant hose directly above the distributer, that would have shot right onto the high tension seam in the distributer. the hot coolant may have soaked into the seam and be causing another spark to jump inside ore around the outside of the distributer. Unfortunately I don't have another person to crank while I watch to see the other side of the distributer for loose sparks.

Have tried a different key, and have no error codes from ECU.

I just suspect the spark is too weak and want to replace the Distributor, but can't get the darn thing out. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The distributor is the same (AFAIK) for TE TF TH TJ and verada models KE KF KJ KH, so any suggestions from people with these models that have removed their distributors would be fantastic.

Thanks

Kym

Sorry I'm not super engine savvy, but have you checked your battery/terminals?

Sorry I'm not super engine savvy, but have you checked your battery/terminals?

Yes, was one of the first things checked, and in general the engine wont crank if there is a power problem.

Main priority is to get this distributor off, I have a approved mechanic that is guiding me through this too.

how far out is it coming?
should just get the bolts and leads off and it should pull out, it is in there pretty tight though.

how far out is it coming?
should just get the bolts and leads off and it should pull out, it is in there pretty tight though.

It wouldn't move at all! I tried levering it with a screwdriver (carefully), its moved all of 2mm, and stopped solid again!

mmmm, it should just pop out after some persuasion

mmmm, it should just pop out after some persuasion

Ok thanks, didnt want to force it if I missed something. With no elongated hole in one of the mounts, you cannot twist it out, this means all you can do is pull.
Will try wiggling the rotor while pulling, and may try putting dizzy cap back on to get a better grip. failing that, its out with the screwdriver, use it as a wedge and hammer it between the block and the dizzy, not my fave option, but may be th only thing that works...

You jsut have to persist as they tend to gum up inside the head making a lip of sludge that will catch, once you get it past the "O" ring seal you should be fine

You jsut have to persist as they tend to gum up inside the head making a lip of sludge that will catch, once you get it past the "O" ring seal you should be fine


Awsome, thanks for the info. have jut picked up the replacment dizzy, and brought 2 $2 medium chisels, I think used carefully they should help it out.

Solved, after 8 hours of fighting the old dizzy off, new one installed, and engine now runs. Noted point, even if there is air, fuel and a spark in a cylinder, that don't always mean the engine will start, there is such a thing as too low a spark.

Thanks for all the replies.