Hi

Im looking at buying a 2001 model (or later) KJ Verada Xi. Does anyone know of any specific things to watch out for? Thanks in advance.

Try to get a 02-03 Series 2 model as they come with a 5sp tiptronic auto. Things to check

- CV Boots/Joints, inspect underneith and look for tears, listen for clicking around corners
- Sunroof leaks, sunroof sticking
- Oil leaks (Specifically the rocker covers and cam seals)
- Ensure the transmission shifts smoothly with no clunks or flares between changes
- Ensure the transmission fluid is a nice cherry red
- Ensure the oil is a golden colour
- Check when the timing belt, water pump, and spark plugs were done last (These should be done every 100,000km)

Few things

If its Series 1 KJ then it'll be a 4sp model then its always good to check the transmission oil that it is nice and pink, asking how the owner cared for it as these boxes are prone to wave spring failure which destroys the box....also take it out for a drive and see how it shifts - these cars have transmissions that 'learn' the drivers behaviour and it'll be a chance to see how the driver used to use the car - my car eventually learnt that I like to change my gears low and when my mate borrowed it for a few weeks the shifting was alot higher rev and I knew that he didn't change so low.......

Otherwise the KJ Series 2 then you'd get the nice 5sp autobox....it is much better - more in tune with the engine - best auto gearbox invented for the magna/verada - reviews loved them - but will be much more costlier to repair if they break.....also its much harder to find Verada's with them...from memory there's only like 15-20 S2 Verada XI's on carsales right now.....

As always check for service records or if they don't exist ask what the owner has done - especially around the 100,000 or 200,000k mark as there massive 1.2k+ services that need to be done around those times.....if they're not done then it could be a concern as timing belt gets changed otherwise it can be a good bargaining tool ;) ... these cars will go well and for a long time if they're serviced ....

It does help to try and take out a few similar cars around that age just to be able to access the differences........take a quiet drive and listen for any knocking from the rear in case the car was used for heavy towing and go into a court or a quiet street and do a full lock turn - wind the window down and listen for any clicking noises - if there any then the CV joint may be on its way out....

Doesn't hurt to check out all electrics - Verada's don't have a history of broken and failing electronics but the XI is packed with them so its a worth a check that every button works anyway.....

Leaks around alot of sunroof's can happen so check that too.....

edit: looks like I've been beaten and in much less words....

Thanks both of you, I will keep this in mind. Very Helpful. Do you think 150 K's is too high for a 2000 KJ?

Thanks both of you, I will keep this in mind. Very Helpful. Do you think 150 K's is too high for a 2000 KJ?
Absolutely not, I just had my engine and transmission replaced on my 2000 TH, it had 320,000km on it before failure :) Housemate has a 99 KH Xi with 147,000km and it is absolutely flawless.

Thanks both of you, I will keep this in mind. Very Helpful. Do you think 150 K's is too high for a 2000 KJ?

Not really....I've seen alot worse....150k's in 10 years is about 15,000k's per year which is pretty much under average - most people do about 20k a year......

At least with 150k's the major service would've been done so you've got a good 50,000k's (2-3 years at least) of mostly troublefree motoring if you take care of the car with regular servicing....although at 200k's the massive service will come again, and its likely you're shocks will be shot as well so they will need to get changed...so yeah the 200k mark will cost heaps - easy 2k (1.2k for major service & around $800 for shocks installed)...but you pay that out and then you have a nice car with a good new ride and should have anouther 100k's before everything starts kicking it....if you clock up about 20,000k's a year from now thats another good 6-8 years - by then it'll be a bomb and you'll be happy to move on......

Like most cars keep them in good condition, well serviced, well taken care of and they'll go for a good while.....the magna's can go for a good while - there are cases of people over 400k's with original engine and transmission still in tact - seems that 300 is the general mark....

Lol 1.2k for major service, bad time to tell you my major PLUS NEW ENGINE cost around 1400? I think you got ripped.

Lol 1.2k for major service, bad time to tell you my major PLUS NEW ENGINE cost around 1400? I think you got ripped.

I didn't pay that much because my mate is doing most of the work barely spent $600 for the lot - but go to Mistu dealer and they will charge you about that much.....search around these forums and people are always saying "My mechanic is asking $1000-1400 etc for the 100k service".....

You also have to remember you got your engine from Mal who usually has cheaper parts than most - much cheaper than any wreckers as he no middle man and little overheads (among many other things) like a mechanic/dealership has......they have a standard to live up too and they will charge you for the guarantee.....

$800-$1,000 is a more realistic target for a major service.

My last major cost $900 (The 200,000 service). $1200 is too much unless you are getting extras (ie. transflush).

My last major cost $900 (The 200,000 service). $1200 is too much unless you are getting extras (ie. transflush).

I always thought the transflush was standard apart of the service - but if it isn't I'd recommend most to get it esp. if they have the 4sp......last I checked with mistu was 1.2k after I mentioned its due for its 100k service and the transmission was not changing gears when it was cold and that was the price they gave me.....Mal even charges over 1k for the Major service....

Anyway I managed to get away with about $600 including the transflush though.....

Need I remind you Dean, that you had to drive nearly 1000 kilometres just to get to Mal's?

And can we try to keep the negativity down please? What we need is real information and real pricing.

Something you can look out for also is the engine mount to the right of the engine (drivers side - engine's right, but your left as you look down into the engine bay). It should be nice and solid, with no cracks or sagging. Costs $200ish for a mitsubishi one + labour, or $100 if you buy the polyurethane mount. Always a good bargaining tool!