I have a ks manual 3.0 Touring wagon and found it to have factory twin piston front brakes... Does the normal KS Verada have twin pot brakes? Also my wagon has heated headlight washers on the bumper which are not working but make a whizz noise when I press the button, I have checked the 3litre reservoir for them... any ideas how to fix them?? The rear bumper has a large dent... is there any aftermarket KS wagon rear sports bars available?? Is the centre rear engine mount easy enough to DIY? as I have done the front easy enough. Is it worth doing a clear coat spray to give it more shine and hide the faded mark on the roof?? how much would it cost??
Where can I get Extractors/headers from?



Cheers

Dave

I thought all Veradas were auto?

Maybe it was an option and probably costed a bit more if anything...
If not its probably a conversion.

I recently purchased a ks manual Touring wagon and found it to have factory twin piston front brakes... Does the normal KS Verada have twin pot brakes? Also my wagon has heated headlight washers on the bumper which are not working but make a whizz noise when I press the button, I have checked the 3litre reservoir for them... any ideas how to fix them?? The rear bumper has a large dent... is there any aftermarket KS wagon rear sports bars available?? Is the centre rear engine mount easy enough to DIY? as I have done the front easy enough. Is it worth doing a clear coat spray to give it more shine and hide the faded mark on the roof?? how much would it cost?? Cheers

Dave

After those 2 helpful posts I'd like to add:
KS touring could be ordered with manual box.
All KS had twin pot calipers front. Should also have ABS.
Flush the plastic tubes from the reservoir to the washers out, they are probably clogged.
Rear bumper: remove, you will find it is plastic over a steel frame, straighten the frame out and it should be ok. No aftermarket bumpers AFAIK
Rear moujnt is easy but fiddley.
Clearcoat respray will not hide faded paint. Roof needs cutting back and respraying with colour, then clear.

Yup, touring wagons were available in 5 speed manual. I had one from 1998 to 2004, Great car.

Headlamp washers. Same pump as a Pajero. If you buy from Mits it will cost a ransom.

It is likely that water has got past the motor seal and rusted it out internally, I was fotunate and was able to pull it apart, clean it and re-assemble.

You really need to use them once or more a month.

Just take the rear bumper off, take the dent out with a heat gun. Change the metal reo underneath.

Gerry

the fact that the motor is making a whizz when you press the button, its a sign that the motor is working, are you sure the reservoir is topped up, just for those unfamiliar, the headlight washer resevoir is at the front passenger side of the car, it does not use the same washer reservoir that services the front and rear windscreen.

or

you may have a broken hose (check for drips when you push the button) or blocked nozzles

and yes the Touring wagon do come as factory manuals :D

just checked the Headlight washes and when I press the button I hear a click under the centre of dash or under bonnett area. No whizz noise at all, sorry that came from my '95 Lexcen Newport.

Thanks for your info...

Where can I get Extractors to suit other than RPW? seem pretty hard to find.

Where can I get Extractors to suit other than RPW? seem pretty hard to find.

No-where. RPW Sells very good off the shelf extractors for the SOHC V6. Unless you want the same thing made at an exhaust shop for $1100+

http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=1844&category_id=108&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

Will NOT find better then $500 for proper extractors. I'd be jumping on them if I still had a SOHC

Cheers... I will then... I guess I will also need a high flow cat and through system... but what would be the best size piping to go for to get the most from it? I was thinking of going to somewhere like performance exhaust to get the cat-back done? or maybe a redback system?

redback cat back would be fine. 2.5" is a good overall size and allows for the DOHC conversion down the track ;) I put a 3" magnaflow high flow cat in (200cpi road legal) for less restriction over a 2.5"
overall, to get a 3" high flow cat $250 approx and a catback $400 approx leave about $1200 aside for a full front to back exhaust system

i'd say a 2.5" 200cpi metal cat is more that enough... the 3" metal cat felt like there is a lack of exhaust back pressure at lower rpm this is with a 6g72 dohc motor as you have got plan to install in future...

Actually the RPW extractors are total rubbish, a former member Killbilly had these, they spent most of the time off the car geting cracks etc welded up

I would think that for that sort of $$ you may be able to get a custom set made up, I will check with some of my sources and see if this is the case

The Manual Touring Wagon is an exceptional car for what was available when it was made etc, I envy you having that car lol, is one I have always wanted parked in my garage.

With the brakes, any second gen with ABS have the twin pot front calipers, when it comes time to do pads etc, I am able to do you a very good price on QFM pads, these will make already great brakes even better :)

Actually the RPW extractors are total rubbish, a former member Killbilly had these, they spent most of the time off the car geting cracks etc welded up

I would think that for that sort of $$ you may be able to get a custom set made up, I will check with some of my sources and see if this is the case

The Manual Touring Wagon is an exceptional car for what was available when it was made etc, I envy you having that car lol, is one I have always wanted parked in my garage.

With the brakes, any second gen with ABS have the twin pot front calipers, when it comes time to do pads etc, I am able to do you a very good price on QFM pads, these will make already great brakes even better :)

Did KB have those ones on his SOHC? Cause his DOHc ones were custom made.
All I know is when I got some prices on extractors for the DOHC it was $1100 and I think even KB paid $1100 for them on his DOHC

KB had the RPW crap on his SOHC before the DOHC went in, they cracked many times and by the time he removed them they looked terrible

The clue to making headers etc is in how they treat the pipe when they make and weld them. If they cold weld and then allow to cool too fast then the metal goes brittle and they crack, also stress on the pipe work does this as well.

I re read, did not realise they were onyl $500 but still, even for $500 I would not bother, by the time yo have the hassle of getting them fixed constantly then why bother.

Remember he does not make them, the third gen ones are actually repainted Pacemakers, the second gen ones are made in a place in I think Parramatta, that is where KB went back to as RPW did not want to know about them once they had issues, as far as RPW were concerned, they only supplied them so any issues were not RPW issues if you get my drift

The Manual Touring Wagon is an exceptional car for what was available when it was made etc, I envy you having that car lol, is one I have always wanted parked in my garage.


some day you might just have one mate.. there are already a few members on here with one and believe it or not, i spotted one on the road near my place so they are still around and alive.

I thought KB's extractors were about 800-900 bucks.. believe they are the ones still on my car

They were the custom ones he had made up, not the RPW ones, I had the RPW ones here at one stage but I can not remember who ended up with the plates etc in the end, think it was a guy who lives out sunshine way, had a black TR from memory, was all too long ago now

i had my DOHC headers custom made and had the RPW or liverpool exhaust extractors also on the ol' SOHC. lol they featured the cracks also although minor.

I would bother modifying a SOHC unless i was going to throw a DOHC infront of a catback system of i was throwing cams in at a later stage. Do what you want.

Thanks for the input... I will go see the guys at Performance exhaust Ringwood for a decent 2.5in cat-back system for now... as they did a great 2.25in job on my last KS wagon a few years ago (which ended up with my ex) and set me back $660. I will need to decide whether I want to part with the original engine (180k's) to upgade to a DOHC as the SOHC is quicker than I expected in stock form being manual I guess... way quicker than my last KS auto wagon. Thanks for admiring my wheels MADMAGNA, I will let you know when its up for sale :) Can a SOHC be modified enough to keep me happy is the question? I am thinking of going with an Oval K&N Pod after the cat-back is done as my old KS got the K&N panel filter which did the job but Pod may be better? ;)

don't bother going a pod filter unless its in a box, because it would be sucking in hot engine bay air. better of just going a k & n filter instead

i have a DOHC engine here touringverada which may be of help?

(i totally bidded on that car on ebay by the way, very jealous!)

i have a DOHC engine here touringverada which may be of help?

(i totally bidded on that car on ebay by the way, very jealous!)

You do? Since when?

I would give Performance a miss to be honest, there are far better about

Why dont you drop by sometime, I am in Heathmont, right next to ringwood, can chat and see what you really want to get our of the car and work it from there

BTW, K&N WILL NOT gain power, dyno has shown a 2 - 3kw decrease with K&N, your best option is a clean paper filter by far

;1300430']You do? Since when?

Since like 2 years ago?

I would give Performance a miss to be honest, there are far better about

Why dont you drop by sometime, I am in Heathmont, right next to ringwood, can chat and see what you really want to get our of the car and work it from there

BTW, K&N WILL NOT gain power, dyno has shown a 2 - 3kw decrease with K&N, your best option is a clean paper filter by far

not on my dyno run at SKR... the TL threw all believes and previous results out the window woth the K&N and the NZ intake

btw, touringverada, if you have free time this weekend let me know, swing by my area if you like and will take you on a ride in a touring wagon with a dohc, you know will have a better feel of what you'll be getting yourself into

Since like 2 years ago?

not the same motor that mal pick up of you in SA? and the motor that is now in paul's hands? the 6g74 dohc motor?

i still have the DOHC heads and all the others bits and bobs

i still have the DOHC heads and all the others bits and bobs

That's heads - which are identical to 3000GT heads

I have the motor here

i have a DOHC engine here touringverada which may be of help?

(i totally bidded on that car on ebay by the way, very jealous!)

Sorry to hear that, I did feel sorry for the bidders but the seller was a bit dodgy and didnt realise how rare the car was :) ... The dude was after a good price for it so I made an arrangement with him and he ended it early. He got more for it than the final bid but thats what had to be done so he could get his asking price which should have been his reserve price. The car also had not been serviced in 40,000 km's and urgently needed front and rear engine mounts full service Oil, filters including petrol, leads, plugs, A major throttle body clean. Also urgently needed front Rotors and Bendix all round, bleeding and 2 rear tyres. Now I just need to replace steering boot, rear engine mount and tie rod ends to have it roadworthy. ;)

I also still have an idling problem (fluctuating on idle) and flat spots through accelerating (maybe injectors) as car was previously mainly driven on dirt roads around Ballarat for 40,000km's.

I'm a bit stuck trying to figure out which one the Idle Speed Motor is?

I'm a bit stuck trying to figure out which one the Idle Speed Motor is?

PM'd you but if you read this first, 6 pin plug facing the brake booster or drivers side strut tower, 2 x 8mm bolts, use an 8mm 1/4" drive with small extension to get to them :)

You've just turned something that seemed complicated into an easy job.... Thanks Heaps TUFFTR... I will be off to the wreckers in the morning ;) I might replace the TPS too just in case... could it be the timing (cam) belt if these do not fix it?

there is only 2 electrical connector to a throttle body (follow the engine loom and you'll find them
1) the TPS (throttle position sensor)
2) the ISC (idle speed controller) is on the underside of the intake pipe/tube if you remave the intake pipe you'll have easier access/sight of the ISC

there is only 2 electrical connector to a throttle body (follow the engine loom and you'll find them
1) the TPS (throttle position sensor)
2) the ISC (idle speed controller) is on the underside of the intake pipe/tube if you remave the intake pipe you'll have easier access/sight of the ISC

The ISC changing master has spoken! (Sarcasm, he sucks at changing them:P)

The TPS.....I doubt that's your problem, but a common problem is the plug being corroded inside, Would be a good idea to take the plug off and check for corrosion inside. If it is, give it a good clean. timing....I'd grab a haynes manual and it'll tell you in there how to check the timing.

Just might be a PITA to get the crank pulley to line up with TDC....cam's are easy.....just take the covers off....but yes best to consult a manual with that one...
Good luck!

YIdle motor done and idles better. I adjusted the idle screw all the way in and its still sitting just above 1000rpm, how can I get it down to 800rpm? Do I need to disconnect the battery to reset it? Is it ok for the idle screw to be all the way in?

YIdle motor done and idles better. I adjusted the idle screw all the way in and its still sitting just above 1000rpm, how can I get it down to 800rpm? Do I need to disconnect the battery to reset it? Is it ok for the idle screw to be all the way in?

mate I am in the same boat... my idles at about 1300rpm which is VERY loud in my car... i have played with so many throttle bodies and isc its not a joke... some throttle bodies and isc combination provide different results which is strange as hell but anyway, its a learning process

mate I am in the same boat... my idles at about 1300rpm which is VERY loud in my car... i have played with so many throttle bodies and isc its not a joke... some throttle bodies and isc combination provide different results which is strange as hell but anyway, its a learning process
I did put the new ISC motor into my old ISC Housing (with 3 screws) and noticed the little metal connectors were different thickness inside each motor, probably means nothing?

I did put the new ISC motor into my old ISC Housing (with 3 screws) and noticed the little metal connectors were different thickness inside each motor, probably means nothing?

you could have just removed the isc, its 2 screws which holds it into the throttle body... remove that and replaced with another unit

The only one I could find at the wreckers had a missing bracket part for one of the screws so I had no choice... lucky it worked.

The motor in the Touring wagon is not the same as the Magna/Verada, if you have a good look you find that the exhaust pipe that runs under the motor is different, there's a oil cooler were the oil filter is, the sump is a different shape due to the exhaust and the sump plug is at the back, it has a EGR, the fuse cover and ECU, also it suppose to have bigger valves. According to the european brochure it goes from 0-100 in 9.5 seconds, top speed 215km/h manual, auto little bit slower but still quicker the aussie (10-11.5, 205-210 for the aussie version) and it weights approximately 150kgs more, also there's other things which are not the same.The suspension seems to be a little bit softer compared to the TS V6 SE wagon that I used to own, but now I have lowered my Touring wagon by 30mm whichs makes it handle better and still rides good, oh it has only 135xxx kms up and is still in good condition.

Thanks for that valuable info, I can feel the difference in power over my last KS wagon I thought it was just the Manual trans, Plus I commonly say bye bye at the lights to standard VY's etc.

I was wondering if anyone has turned a second Gen into All-Wheel-Drive yet? Could the Legnum AWD gear be used?

I was wondering if anyone has turned a second Gen into All-Wheel-Drive yet? Could the Legnum AWD gear be used?

Nope.
Wrong side.
The only chance you can get to make it AWD is to use the 3000GT subframe which will work in the diamante ALOT easier then a magna rear end.
Legnums run the same engine and gearbox....sides...as a 3rd gen which is why they are a common 3rd gen swap.

According to the european brochure it goes from 0-100 in 9.5 seconds, top speed 215km/h manual, auto little bit slower but still quicker the aussie (10-11.5, 205-210 for the aussie version)

wut - the SOHC will do 215 in 4th gear. Not that i'd know.

;1302752']Nope.
Wrong side.
The only chance you can get to make it AWD is to use the 3000GT subframe which will work in the diamante ALOT easier then a magna rear end.
Legnums run the same engine and gearbox....sides...as a 3rd gen which is why they are a common 3rd gen swap.

If it can be done I am definately interested in finding out more. How does it work better in the Diamante Rear end?

If it can be done I am definately interested in finding out more. How does it work better in the Diamante Rear end?

Diamante rear end is a multi-link setup needing only 2 brackets to be welded to the body for the AWD subframe to fit. Anything can be done, however alot harder in a wagon. By alot harder I mean never done before and yeah, your in uncharted territory!

I just purchased a new rear engine mount for $100 can it be installed in the car without detaching anything else? also does it slide out a certain way like the front?

Cheers

yurp easy as.

Jack up engine with plank of wood > remove mount and reverse.

yurp easy as.

Jack up engine with plank of wood > remove mount and reverse.

Finally front and Rear engine mounts are done, The back was a prick ;)

Has anyone been able to find a pair of 4" speakers that fit into the factory dash pods? as they are not very deep pods and I am having trouble upgrading without having to cut into the aircon ducts.

Mine are still working well, mainly because they have been hiding under a dash mat since new. Have a look at the wreckers for a TR or TS with a dash mat. Or stick some bigger ones in the door, easiest way really.

Has anyone been able to find a pair of 4" speakers that fit into the factory dash pods? as they are not very deep pods and I am having trouble upgrading without having to cut into the aircon ducts.

Don't you have 6"s in the door? Just upgrade them, the 4"s are useless, use it for a tweeter mounting location for your 6's if they are splits

The only dash speaker that fit sorta are Sony explode :) They need to be slim line and you need to cut out part of the dash lol Never going to repair speaker when they go again lol Easy option put speaker in the door lol Much easier :D

I had 5" in the roof up back so upgraded them to some new clarion 5" as the pod holes would not fit 6" so I only had to drill 4 new holes for each into the roof pods... I thought the front door speakers were 5" but I could be wrong... 6" will be better and easier to get hold of. I will pull them out in the next few days.. thanks

It finishes on ebay tonight, grab a bargain....

I really regret having to sell it on ebay but I need money to move house for my family. It runs great and would be awesome to do up. finishes tonight on ebay at about 930pm.