ive inspected the magna this weekend a bit closer and found that the ball joint boots are split horisontaly. so that adds the the steering boots, strut boots and brake disc run out. im hoping i can go to a wreckers and pull the whole front end out of a decent car (providing there is one). from what i can see it appears possible to remove the whole lot by undoing the control arm at the chassis rail and then the strut at the top of the tower and taking the whole knuckle and everything from the car. has anyone done this is one piece or do you need to split the ball joint?
or is it a better (cheaper) option to go to repco / bursons and buy ball joints, suspension boots, steering boots and possibly sway bar bushes ect and start afresh. although the gregorys manual says not to replace ball joints your self i cant see the trouble in undoing a circlip and pressing the old one out and a new one in (have access to a 20 tonn hydraulic press).
i really should take the car to a mechanic and pay to have it inspected so they can tell me exactly what they will let slide and what i need to do for a road worthy.
thanks allot
regards jay

Use the press by all means, if you have the right fittings to not damage the control arm when you press out/in the ball joints. Most of the parts you mention are cheap. I don't know price on ball joints though. I would go for new bits rather than something from the wreckers of doubtful quality.

you take of the shocks at the top
in the engine bay

undo brake hoses and pipes

without the engine and gearbox and steering universal shaft

you can get the whole front end off
if you get the chassis high eneough

find a nice wrecking yard that might take it out for you :eeek:


you will find a balljoint taper removal tool helpfull

Good luck finding a front end in better condition that yours. lol

Good luck finding a front end in better condition that yours. lol
yeh thats exactly what i was thinking! everything at the wreckers is over 350,000 ks and mines only 210,000.

ill price all the new parts on Monday and see how its looking otherwise there may have to be a mix of wreckers and new although ide only put new ball joints on there. now thinking about it the 'split' may not have been a split rather a join ect so ill have to have a good look tomorrow. what else should i look for in the suspension area?
the shockers have a little bounce in them and are a tad soft but not excessive. springs up and down once or twice when you jump on the front end.
so dont know weather they will pass them. got to do either brake discs or complete hubs. would you expect the hubs to be flogged at 210,000 km? or is it more likely to be warped discs.
driving it the 60ks to the big smoke tomorrow so that will be a true test for the overdrive seeing as it never gets over 80 around here but the freeway driving aint as bad as stopping and starting i suppose.
thanks allot,
regards jay

got a few prices from repco. the steering rack boots are $13 each, the ball joints are $56 and a control arm bush kit is $44. they didnt have the suspension components and recommended pedas ect. what do you think of these prices? if i do the steering boots will they bother to inspect the ball joints on the steering control arms ect too closely if it all looks good?
thanks

should be able to find ball joints a bit cheaper $30 ~ if there still is clean grease in the joint and isnt loose, for the time being you can just buy the boots rather then the whole joint but if your taking the whole K frame off to do the bushes you might as well replace them at the same time
the ball joints on the steering (tie rod ends) need to be unwound to get the steering rack boots on so for what its worth your better off just replacing them too there normaly under $20 a side youll need a wheel alignment straight after

do you plan on doing the work your self?

i would like to do it all myself or at least everything the get it looked over by a mechanic so i know its done right. the main thing i cringe about is the brakes but once you have done it once i suppose its no so bad there after. the tie rod ball joints looked to be in good shape but ill inspect further and defiantly consider replacing them. the problem is i want to get the car on the road as a car to drive for the last year of my L's and then as a P plater but i currently have a ever dwindling supply of cash. \
thanks
jay

I forgot to mention the sway bar bushes are very cheap to replace and is very easy to do while your under there just make sure you put the caps/washes back in the same order
if your do end up doing it your self invest in a ball joint/tie rod end remover about $15 it takes the head ache out smacking the joint to pop it out, the one i use looks like http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41un8RbKMsL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

The brakes are fairly simple once you do it once maybe look at getting a Gregory's/haynes or the factory manual they often pop up on ebay if not magna buff might have some diagrams floating around the place

You could check out http://www.rockauto.com/ for cheap parts select a (86-90) sigma or galant sigma, there an american based site ive never bought from them but a few other members have
just checked then they do the sway bar bushes with cups and bolt for $7 a side plus postage and ball joints for ~$11 a side plus postage

thanks mate!
ill have a look at the web site tonight. i have a pickle fork but will buy what ever is needed to do it properly.
the sway bar bushes are not cracked or damaged on closer inspection but it would be a good idea i suppose because then its one less thing they can pick on.
i have the gregories manual but its for a tm so dosnt have efi and wagon stuff so i will keep my eye out for one for the tp.
the brakes can be left to a pro if i have the money in the end but its all doubtful. the reason i say this is because the discs have allot of run out so at least a pro could stick them in a lathe and touch them up rather then me replacing them.
thanks allot
regards jay