Guys,

I'm OS atm in Bangkok. Car just got serviced and I explicitly left instructions for trans flush with Mitsu fluid. Wife tells me the bill lists Dexron 3.

I'm pretty sure we've discussed generic fluids for Mitsu autos and the consensus was they are shit.

Please confirm becuase I will take action if this is the case.

Guys,

I'm OS atm in Bangkok. Car just got serviced and I explicitly left instructions for trans flush with Mitsu fluid. Wife tells me the bill lists Dexron 3.

I'm pretty sure we've discussed generic fluids for Mitsu autos and the consensus was they are shit.

Please confirm becuase I will take action if this is the case.

Richard,

Dextron 3 = Holden autos + manuals and Falcon autos.

SP3 = Mitsubishi Autos.

That stuff will kill the auto in less than 2000kms.

Thanks Mate.

Grrrr... someone is going to get his arse kicked f***** hard

Whoever you got it serviced by should KNOW THAT. Make sure it's dealt with IMMEDIATELY

Yeah mate DO NOT let the mrs drive it! cant believe some "professionals"

I would not allow the car to be driven at all, I would tell them you want them to have the car towed back and the proper SP3 used and a complet flush, if not a dual flush to make sure it is all gone

The Genuine SP3 fluid is supplied by BP and I dont believe even BP actually make the stuff so any good brand SP3 fluid will be fine

When I asked an auto transmission workshop about flushes and prices, they said they used DX3 on everything as it went across all standards. I then read up about how you cant use DX3 on mitsu autos and decided to DIY....

When I asked an auto transmission workshop about flushes and prices, they said they used DX3 on everything as it went across all standards. I then read up about how you cant use DX3 on mitsu autos and decided to DIY....

Oh dear god.

My thoughts exactly, auto transmission workshop my arse, more like kings of fluid transfer... Or maybe thats what they want you to do, fill'er up with DX3, blow the trans, then come back to their workshop for a shiney new $2k auto trans?

Could it just be a typo on the invoice?????

I would not allow the car to be driven at all, I would tell them you want them to have the car towed back and the proper SP3 used and a complet flush, if not a dual flush to make sure it is all gone

The Genuine SP3 fluid is supplied by BP and I dont believe even BP actually make the stuff so any good brand SP3 fluid will be fine

OK, so just to confirm - DIII is a no go for 3rd gen autos as well? I'm fairly certain (trying to think back to something I looked at months ago) that Ultratune used DIII on my TL when I had a transmission service done earlier this year. I've done 10000kms since then at it feels OK but it sometimes feels a little rough when it shifts.

OK, so just to confirm - DIII is a no go for 3rd gen autos as well? I'm fairly certain (trying to think back to something I looked at months ago) that Ultratune used DIII on my TL when I had a transmission service done earlier this year. I've done 10000kms since then at it feels OK but it sometimes feels a little rough when it shifts.

it will 100% ruin your transmission. Make sure it is not filled with that and if so drained and filled with the right fluid. genuine fluid is only $40 per 5L so it's not expensive by any means.

OK, update time.

Wife took the car back, they said they wouldn't change it. I got back home at midday after flying all night - no sleep (not due worrying about the car tho) for over 24 hours - so you could say I was pretty primed up. Also rang my old dealer/servicer at Nundah who said the same as you guys.

Stalked into the office concerned and said "We have a dispute" blah blah - quite calmly

Turned out the guy doing the receipt/service report was using preloaded, pulldown menus and selected the wrong one.
The fluid in the car is Castrol Transmax E which is compatible according to my old Nundah service centre.

Sigh of relief.

Thanks for the response everybody, I really appreciated it in that Bangkok hotel room!

Is there any way to tell which transmission fluid you have, in case the previous owner had it serviced with the wrong fluid?

Nope, a good indication is when it blows up on you. if in any doubt, change the fluid. Preventative maintenance

;1300245']Nope, a good indication is when it blows up on you. if in any doubt, change the fluid. Preventative maintenance

Couldn't help but lol at that one!

Knotched, I'm glad it turned out ok for you. Could have been quite a problem. But this thread just makes me wonder, what is the difference between the two different trans fluids??

;1300245']Nope, a good indication is when it blows up on you. if in any doubt, change the fluid. Preventative maintenance

Yeah, I believed him but you are right. I should just get it changed anyway, it's not worth the risk.
The other issue is when I checked the service record they didn't record how much fluid was used, only the cost of the fluid - $50. At trade price I don't know how much that buys. So I don't know if the flush was done correctly or they just drained and refilled.

Yeah, I believed him but you are right. I should just get it changed anyway, it's not worth the risk.
The other issue is when I checked the service record they didn't record how much fluid was used, only the cost of the fluid - $50. At trade price I don't know how much that buys. So I don't know if the flush was done correctly or they just drained and refilled.

That'd be about 5L of oil which would be used for a "drop and fill" type "flush". For a proper flush you'd be looking at over $140 of fluid alone.

Yep, that's what I figure as well.

I've just dropped the car off at my old servicer to get it done properly. the other place also used 10-30W oil instead of 5-40W and last night for the first time I could hear lifter noise which I've never heard before, so that's getting changed as well.

Yep, that's what I figure as well.

I've just dropped the car off at my old servicer to get it done properly. the other place also used 10-30W oil instead of 5-40W and last night for the first time I could hear lifter noise which I've never heard before, so that's getting changed as well.

So effectively you're getting your car serviced twice. I would rip shreds off that other mob, PROVIDED, you asked them to do the full flush with the correct fluid and to use a 5W-40 oil.

Yep, that's what I figure as well.

I've just dropped the car off at my old servicer to get it done properly. the other place also used 10-30W oil instead of 5-40W and last night for the first time I could hear lifter noise which I've never heard before, so that's getting changed as well.

Richard, why don't you do the oil change yourself?

Dead easy, you know it's being done right with the right oil, and you save heaps on labour costs.

You also save the markup on the oil & filter.

As long as the dealer/mechanic does something (such as ATF flush) it doesn't effect your service record or warranty.

KJ.

Yeah, doesn't matter - it's leased, so costs are covered.

All done and dusted and I'm wiser.

Couldn't help but lol at that one!

Knotched, I'm glad it turned out ok for you. Could have been quite a problem. But this thread just makes me wonder, what is the difference between the two different trans fluids??

Bit of googling, it seems like different fluids have different friction ratings and different temperature ranges, and its possible for the wrong fluid for a box to eat through the seals. Anyone correct me if im wrong though.

Bit of googling, it seems like different fluids have different friction ratings and different temperature ranges, and its possible for the wrong fluid for a box to eat through the seals. Anyone correct me if im wrong though.

Hey guys sorry to revive this thread. I just had my trans flushed today at MIDAS for the 2nd time since I bought the car but I noticed that they used Max Life DX-3 Auto trans-fluid...Now I'm absolutely crapping myself to even drive the car. Thing is I need to convince the mechanics that they should flush it AGAIN and use the correct trans without charging too much. I'll try call Mitsu tomorrow morning to ask the consequences of using DX3 but in case anyone has anything I can use in defense (in writing) I would appreciate that. or has that been covered somewhere :( ..... Poor Trans

PS. I see that when a flush is done, you need it topped up with 8.5 Litres for Auto Transmissions (from the manual)...I'm guessing 5L was too little then? (Saw this in another thread as well but a lot here seem to flush with 5L refilled - i.e. flushed with 15L and top up with 5L)...If that mes sense

Hey guys sorry to revive this thread. I just had my trans flushed today at MIDAS for the 2nd time since I bought the car but I noticed that they used Max Life DX-3 Auto trans-fluid...Now I'm absolutely crapping myself to even drive the car. Thing is I need to convince the mechanics that they should flush it AGAIN and use the correct trans without charging too much. I'll try call Mitsu tomorrow morning to ask the consequences of using DX3 but in case anyone has anything I can use in defense (in writing) I would appreciate that. or has that been covered somewhere :( ..... Poor Trans

PS. I see that when a flush is done, you need it topped up with 8.5 Litres for Auto Transmissions (from the manual)...I'm guessing 5L was too little then? (Saw this in another thread as well but a lot here seem to flush with 5L refilled - i.e. flushed with 15L and top up with 5L)...If that mes sense

If it is as bad as melting through things and dissolving bits that arent designed for that type of fluid, id avoid letting it sit in there too long either. Googled it and saw:

"Recommended for use where DEXRON, DEXRON II, III and VI, Toyota T-IV and WS, MERCON®, MERCON® SP and LV, Allison TES 389, Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J and Matic-K, Honda Z-1 (except CVT), Mercedes NAG-1, Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II and SP-III and many others are required."

Apparently compatible, but I think genuine is supposed to be the best to use and very well priced.

If it is as bad as melting through things and dissolving bits that arent designed for that type of fluid, id avoid letting it sit in there too long either. Googled it and saw:

"Recommended for use where DEXRON, DEXRON II, III and VI, Toyota T-IV and WS, MERCON®, MERCON® SP and LV, Allison TES 389, Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J and Matic-K, Honda Z-1 (except CVT), Mercedes NAG-1, Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II and SP-III and many others are required."

Apparently compatible, but I think genuine is supposed to be the best to use and very well priced.

SP-II and III is essentially Dextron with SPECIFIC additives to work in Hyundai, Mitsubishi and Proton gearboxes and failure to use the correct oil in these cars results in TOTAL gearbox failure.

So Mezzi_24 - get it changed pronto!

SP-II and III is essentially Dextron with SPECIFIC additives to work in Hyundai, Mitsubishi and Proton gearboxes and failure to use the correct oil in these cars results in TOTAL gearbox failure.

So Mezzi_24 - get it changed pronto!

Cheers for the responses fellas, I'm guessing I'll have to learn to flush it myself.

Most annoying thing is, I looked at the product sheet for the MaxLife and it quoted suitable for "Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II and SP-III applications". Argh! Good luck trying to argue with MIDAS on that one.

Don't get me wrong, I believe the SP-III is the best way to go for sure...problem I've blown just over 1K this week finally replacing my lifters, getting rotors done, service, flush new plugs rocker covers etc and now cash isn't too easy so to the service manual it is!

Given my previous experience with Perth Mechanics using something as simple as "incorrect material brakepads" .... dear me.

Darn Perth Mechanics, nothing but problems!!

A link to this has been posted on here before: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_3019/article.html

this highly concerns me... i hope ultratune used the right fluid in my car when the trans was flushed :/

A link to this has been posted on here before: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_3019/article.html

Cheers TiMi & Nemesis, I'll get that trash out on Friday as soon as have some free time

Lessen learnt: Do not take your car to a generic service centre to get your trans flushed. It does not cost much more to take it to your local mitsubishi dealer to get it done properly and with peace of mind.

Lessen learnt: Do not take your car to a generic service centre to get your trans flushed. It does not cost much more to take it to your local mitsubishi dealer to get it done properly and with peace of mind.

Quoted for truth, only ever take your car to experts.

PS: you could give the dept of fair trade a call to see what they advise?

Hate to say it fellas, but if the blurb about Valvoline's ATF DX-3 says it meets the specs for Sp11 then that's the end of the story. You can go to fair trading or whoever but you will find that the service provider who provided the service followed recommended procedures ....they used an oil meeting SP11 specs....and if anyone can provide documented failure records from using this oil then please step forward.
Apart from that, you will not have seals blowing or clutches failing if you fail to use the "holy" SP11 oil in your transmission. Manufacturers like Valvoline do not produce oils that are designed to fail. Think about it. The sky is not about to fall in.
If it meets SP11 specs then that is the end of story...unless you believe in fairy tales.
P.S. I use the proper SP11 oil myself but I refuse to believe that other blenders cannot meet SP11 specs. (anachronism?)

Edit...for SP11 read SP111

Am confused here, you say the trans fluid stated is SPIII compatable, so what is the issue. People still seem to think that Mits actually make fluid, it is not made by mits at all, is made by BP

SP-II, SP-III:
http://www.talleres-escobar.com/ing/cajas_auto.php

Mitsubishi automatic gearboxes require oil with special friction characteristics. The use of ATF type A or Type F will severely damage your belts and clutches and will cause rough gear shifts. The use of Dexron® and Mercon® will cause rough gear shifts and will shorten the transmission´s useful life. As a result of the cooperation between Mitsubishi and Hyundai in the development and production of vehicles and the purchase of Kia by Huyndai, Hyundai and Kia automatic transmissions also use this fluid. AMERICAN UNIVERSAL AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID complies with specifications and SP-II & SP-III tests.

Any Proton, Mitsubishi or Hyundai dealership\workshop will tell you the same thing.


Hate to say it fellas, but if the blurb about Valvoline's ATF DX-3 says it meets the specs for Sp11 then that's the end of the story. You can go to fair trading or whoever but you will find that the service provider who provided the service followed recommended procedures ....they used an oil meeting SP11 specs....and if anyone can provide documented failure records from using this oil then please step forward.
Apart from that, you will not have seals blowing or clutches failing if you fail to use the "holy" SP11 oil in your transmission. Manufacturers like Valvoline do not produce oils that are designed to fail. Think about it. The sky is not about to fall in.
If it meets SP11 specs then that is the end of story...unless you believe in fairy tales.
P.S. I use the proper SP11 oil myself but I refuse to believe that other blenders cannot meet SP11 specs. (anachronism?)

Its not that they cannot meet SP II specs, its that they're not designed to. Every gearbox manufacturer has different lubrication requirements. Just as different engines require different oil, transmissions require different oils too. Why else would a company like Castrol make their own fluid meeting SP II and III specs? (Castrom TQ-MST)

Lessen learnt: Do not take your car to a generic service centre to get your trans flushed. It does not cost much more to take it to your local mitsubishi dealer to get it done properly and with peace of mind.

See, I'd normally agree with you on that one. But I don't that easily any more. Who is an "expert"? a dealer? Last year I went to get a new peanut shaped alarm, didn't know how to code it in and the guy couldn't do it either. He'd code one in and lose the other (by not coding it in correctly), instead of consulting a colleague he rashly concluded that my "aftermarket" alarm system was at fault and that I needed to get it replaced!! - A quick AMC search found that he was attempting to code it in wrong. So Im guessing we're the experts? Haven't gone back to my "local mitsu expert" since...a one off? Possibly



Hate to say it fellas, but if the blurb about Valvoline's ATF DX-3 says it meets the specs for Sp11 then that's the end of the story. You can go to fair trading or whoever but you will find that the service provider who provided the service followed recommended procedures ....they used an oil meeting SP11 specs....and if anyone can provide documented failure records from using this oil then please step forward.
Apart from that, you will not have seals blowing or clutches failing if you fail to use the "holy" SP11 oil in your transmission. Manufacturers like Valvoline do not produce oils that are designed to fail. Think about it. The sky is not about to fall in.
If it meets SP11 specs then that is the end of story...unless you believe in fairy tales.
P.S. I use the proper SP11 oil myself but I refuse to believe that other blenders cannot meet SP11 specs. (anachronism?)

Edit...for SP11 read SP111

I do believe you on that one mate. Fair trading would simply ask to prove the claim, which, given the resources I have, would save time and effort simply replacing it with the one from Mitsu. The product specifications say its SP-II and SP-III compatible therefore it shouldn't hands down ruin the trans. Although it probably isn't the best for it. However, that said, out of precaution, I'll replace it with the proper SP-III supplied by BP.

At the end of the day, we'll all have different opinions, but given our all too fragile gearboxes, I'll replace mine and make sure I ask for SP-III spec oil (specifically) next time

Anyone know what colour SPIII fluid is? Is it a browny colour as opposed to a red colour of dexronIII ?

Anyone know what colour SPIII fluid is? Is it a browny colour as opposed to a red colour of dexronIII ?

They all may be different. The genuine SP3 from Mitsubishi is a pinky/red colour.

Gonna get this done in the next few weeks. Should I be taking it to a Misubishi dealer here in Bris or should I buy the fluid myself and take it to a specialist trans workshop?

I paid around the $180 mark at Mits Elizabeth in Adelaide to get my TJ 4 speed auto done properly. Cheap insurance.

Honestly, I don't notice any difference with driving but maybe I wasn't paying attention to it either. But as checked by Mal, it needed doing, so I got it done!

Cheers, Greg.