Had a quick search but couldnt find much..

does anyone know where to get a cam belt/timing belt tool for a 6g74?

or how to make one?

thanks in advance!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MITSUBISHI-TIMING-BELT-TOOL-DSM-ECLIPSE-4G63-EVO-3000GT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e5dd3371aQQitemZ13042 3142170QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

i attacked a cheap socket with an angle grinder

i attacked a cheap socket with an angle grinder

That sounds like my way of thinking(Y) - any chance of a pix or size of socket you attacked plus distance between pins.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MITSUBISHI-3-TIMING-BELT-INSTALL-TOOLS-4G63-ECLIPSE-DSM-/130424952221?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e5deed59d
these other two tools worth spending the extra money on? the pin is just for the hydraulic tensioner yeah?

these other two tools worth spending the extra money on? the pin is just for the hydraulic tensioner yeah?

Not really - the hydraulic tensioner can be held in place with a short piece of baling wire after you've reset it; it's a tiny hole that that pin won't fit in. The crank tool, on the other hand, might be useful, but there are other ways of loosening the harmonic balancer's bolt.

With the exchange rate at 89 US cents, the tensioner tool can be had from 3sx.com for $31AUD.

http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory= 55

Not really - the hydraulic tensioner can be held in place with a short piece of baling wire after you've reset it; it's a tiny hole that that pin won't fit in. The crank tool, on the other hand, might be useful, but there are other ways of loosening the harmonic balancer's bolt.

With the exchange rate at 89 US cents, the tensioner tool can be had from 3sx.com for $31AUD.

http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory= 55

so you think just the tensioner tool? sorry im a complete n00b to this stuff
ps dont stress im not doing it haha im organising the parts for a mechanic mate :D

Not really - the hydraulic tensioner can be held in place with a short piece of baling wire after you've reset it; it's a tiny hole that that pin won't fit in. The crank tool, on the other hand, might be useful, but there are other ways of loosening the harmonic balancer's bolt.

With the exchange rate at 89 US cents, the tensioner tool can be had from 3sx.com for $31AUD.

http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory= 55

And the reason I don't recommed 3sx, check out what they charge for shipping;)

get the one off ebay.

To remove the crank, many ways to do this, You don't need the tool.
1) Jack up side of car your doing timing belt on, place car in gear, and with some extensions on a breaker bar, begin to turn the crank, you'll see the motion of you turning the motor, making the transmission turn the driveshaft, once you find out what way the hub is spinning, you can shove a screwdriver in the slots of the rotor, and it'll jam up against the caliper, or you can get a long tyre lever, and place it between the studs of the hub jamming into the ground. The bolt will have no-where to go but come un-done.

2) Place a breaker bar and socket on the crank bolt, disconnect the ignition, and quickly crank it, should slam up against the crossmember and break the hold of the bolt


All you need is that Timing tensioner tool which is simple FANTASTIC. I will be doing the t/belt on the diamante next week with it, without it i wouldnt even try,

yeah had a look at shipping and was like :nuts: :nuts::wtf:

its all gonna happen with the engine out of the car while we do the manual conversion so that should make it heaps easier :)

if i remember correctly it was a 17mm shallow socket i butchered, will have to take a picy of it

if i remember correctly it was a 17mm shallow socket i butchered, will have to take a picy of it

Look forward to seeing it. Thanks.

Look forward to seeing it. Thanks.

Thread mine! I need the tool as well, love to see how a socket can be modified to do this.

sorry completely forgot will get a pic asap

Thanks! I'm at the stage where I need the tool, hence the threadmine. lol

hope this helps... an angle grinder with a thin cutting disc is all that is needed for this mod

http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad78/the_ash_1/Image018.jpg
http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad78/the_ash_1/Image017.jpg
http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad78/the_ash_1/Image015.jpg

sorry about the quality... mobile phones just dont cut it

Bit of a thread mine/follow up.

Thanks for the pics, the_ash! Better late than never! lol

I ordered the magic tool but with $4 in postage, it still hasn't arrived 1 month later. lol

Got bored waiting for the tool, so I just used 2 drill bits, 1/8 inch or 3.17 mm in diameter, shank first, into the holes and hold the idler in place with a screwdriver between the drill bits while I torqued the bolt up. Its just a matter of lifting up on the screwdriver enough to allow the pin to move freely in the tensioner - with all the slack in the belt on that side, of course. One drill bit bent as the torque wrench clicked, but the hydraulic tensioner extension was right at 5 to 6 mm after pulling the pin (nail) out, turning the engine 2 revolutions of the crank, and waiting 5 minutes as by the manual. So all good.

The drill bits were a loose fit in the holes, maybe 4mm ones would have been better? Still a cheap way of doing it.

When the proper tool arrives, it will be stored away as I will need it for the next belt change in 5 or 6 years. lol

The drill bits were a loose fit in the holes, maybe 4mm ones would have been better? Still a cheap way of doing it.


i think 4mm is too big for those holes. be careful putting drill bits etc into the holes. if they snap and you cant get them out , you bugger up a good bearing.

i think 4mm is too big for those holes. be careful putting drill bits etc into the holes. if they snap and you cant get them out , you bugger up a good bearing.

4 mm too big? Mmmmm. You wouldn't want to jam one in the holes. Anyhow, one of the ones I used bent rather than snapped. Desperate times call for desperate measures. lol It worked. lol

EDIT: One or two hours after writing the above, the actual tool arrived from the states! $2.28 postage on it, took 3 weeks, not too bad! Stored away for future use. lol

i found a link to a locally sourced tool - http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=341 same as yours?

i found a link to a locally sourced tool - http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=341 same as yours?

Yes, that's the one. Not the one I bought, but its a similar price. Postage from the States took 3 weeks, buying it locally might be a bit faster. Needs a 1/4" handle to turn it, I have seen a similar tool with a handle on it, but the seller couldn't tell me the pin spacing, so I didn't buy one of those.

;1301559']2) Place a breaker bar and socket on the crank bolt, disconnect the ignition, and quickly crank it, should slam up against the crossmember and break the hold of the bolt

So, I thought I'd give changing the timing belt a go this weekend... So, I bought one of the tension tools from meek, and organised all the parts I thought I'd need to complete the 100k service items...
Started this afternoon with trying to get the crank bolt undone first (figured this would be one of the hardest to do)...

Below is the end result of following the above 'suggestion'........

http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l556/dombo69/14012011387.jpg

You have created a new tool, the "90 degree ratchet drive"! lol

You really need a solid breaker bar. The method of undoing the nut using the starter motor worked for me, twice in the last year on different engines, but I used something a lot stronger than that!
An ordinary socket handle, non ratchet, with a length of square tubing worked for me.

So, I thought I'd give changing the timing belt a go this weekend... So, I bought one of the tension tools from meek, and organised all the parts I thought I'd need to complete the 100k service items...
Started this afternoon with trying to get the crank bolt undone first (figured this would be one of the hardest to do)...

Below is the end result of following the above 'suggestion'........

http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l556/dombo69/14012011387.jpg

Sorry mate but that's what you get with an obvioulsy shit tool. Now you've also gone to undo it with a RATCHET which is a giant no no. use a breaker bar dude?!

my above "suggestion" without the proper tool is how you do it no questions asked, I've told many members to do it this way even on the phone and they've all had success.
So;
1) dont use a ratchet when you need a breaker
2) when you buy a ratchet, dont cheap out and buy a super cheap special
3) the picture above is what happens when you use the wrong tool for the wrong job and made out of pay doh instead of metal

Play dough? Nope, mild steel more likely, from the nice way it bent.
A high tensile metal ratchet handle would have shattered where the head joins the handle, or more likely the ratchet mechanism would disintegrate. The bolt is in really tight, probably because it heat welds itself to the crankshaft over the years. You will find a lot of bolts in this job being a lot tighter than the torque specifications in the manual would suggest.

The method works, trust us, you just need something a bit more robust.

Time for round 2 . . . . .

I've heard that a rattle gun works with ease...

But yes, I'll need to invest in a better, stronger and more expensive breaker bar to get it cracked that way I think...

Off to a mates place tomorrow to see if his rattle gun will have any better luck (got to return the tools I borrowed from him cause he needs them for his own car).

To be honest, I only 'tried' it with that as the ratchet stuffed up earlier in the day, but I almost expected it to fail... Certainly not that badly though...
I thought everyone might get a laugh out of it though... So I thought I'd share...

I've heard that a rattle gun works with ease...

But yes, I'll need to invest in a better, stronger and more expensive breaker bar to get it cracked that way I think...

Off to a mates place tomorrow to see if his rattle gun will have any better luck (got to return the tools I borrowed from him cause he needs them for his own car).

To be honest, I only 'tried' it with that as the ratchet stuffed up earlier in the day, but I almost expected it to fail... Certainly not that badly though...
I thought everyone might get a laugh out of it though... So I thought I'd share...

Thank the lord you were not serious in that attempt lol.
Rattle gun might or might not work, so give it a shot, I know pissy supercheap ones have no chance of removing it so it better be a big gun :)

Has anyone any other suggestions for an automatic.
I imagine the technique above may work to undo the nut, but you will still need to lock the crankshaft to tighten the nut.
Cheers
Rob

Do it like MadMax suggests: "You really need a solid breaker bar. The method of undoing the nut using the starter motor worked for me, twice in the last year on different engines, but I used something a lot stronger than that!
An ordinary socket handle, non ratchet, with a length of square tubing worked for me. "
That's the way I've done it on Commodores - just remember to remove the CAS plug before cranking so engine doesn't start.

Undid one on a TJ with the starter motor trick (Supercheap rattle gun didn't work lol) but did it up with the rattle gun.

Of course, if you have a manual, you simple drop it into 4th gear, apply brakes and undo the bolt.

I had a problem at 100000 km with the TF. I tried an impact wrench - nothing. It wouldn't come undone with a breaker bar. The engine was einding up terribly. I decided to move the impact socket one flat (60 degrees) and have another go, but I couldn't get the socket on, so I decided to crank the engine over with the starter motor. I forgot to take the socket off the nut. OOPS! the engine fired and the whole lot came loose - easy. I really don't recommend this way, but it did come.

Make sure that you tighten the nut up tight when you are finished.

I forgot to take the socket off the nut. OOPS! the engine fired and the whole lot came loose - easy. I really don't recommend this way, but it did come.

can be dangerous , hence why you remove the Crank Angle Sensor plug first.

Re the Cam Belt tool, Gregory's TE/TF manual gives details on what to make for a tool. SO does the Haynes manual for my NL Pajero. Diffferent tool, same principle. The tool I made was a large nut which I drilled 3 hole thru near the peaks of the hexagon. I then inserted some welding rods and tack welded them in place. The welding rods are too soft and bent easily. I would tend to use a pair of drills and maybe glue them into place to avoids softening them as you tack weld them in place.

Last time I did both vehicles, I replaced the idler pulleys as well. Having a new pulley gives you an idea of what you need to access the key holes, so you can set the tool up correctly.

I recall reading a thread somewhere about a guy who did his Pajero, and he simply used a pair of circlip piers to tension the pulley. Personally, I lkie that idea because winding my nut backwards and guessing the tension isn't much fun and it rarely seems to work for me. I always go back after a month or so and check that the belt is still tensioned OK anyway. Not a nice job, but at least i know everythinfg has settled properly.