Wondering if someone could advise how best to access the rubber door grommet from inside the 3rd gen interior on the driver's side. Have removed the lower console underneath wheel and looked up but the location seems very well obscured by fuse box and other wiring.

Do I need to remove the fuse box? Is there an easier way of doing this? Very frustrated having spent the last hr stuffing around with little progress.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63716

Here's a thread re this on the passenger side... but I really need some advice on the driver's side.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63716

Here's a thread re this on the passenger side... but I really need some advice on the driver's side.

if your replacing the wireing, i would find the exsisting, tape it on very securly and just pull it through, iif your adding, have you tried using like a small bit of wire, gently poke around until you see it then tape on cable and pull through carefully....that help?

if your replacing the wireing, i would find the exsisting, tape it on very securly and just pull it through, iif your adding, have you tried using like a small bit of wire, gently poke around until you see it then tape on cable and pull through carefully....that help?

Thanks... I'm leaving the existing wiring there, but disconnecting and adding new spkr wire through to upgraded speakers. I'll experiment a little tomorrow.

Thanks... I'm leaving the existing wiring there, but disconnecting and adding new spkr wire through to upgraded speakers. I'll experiment a little tomorrow.

yeah true poking thru with thin wire mabye straighten out a coat hanger or something? thats how i did it anyways, just be carefull not to damage any exsiting wires or anything...shouldnt be too hard

Gently pull existing wires as far as you can to one side, tape the new wires to them, and gently pull as far as you can to the other side till you can untape them and pull the ends of the new wires through?

i used a straightened out coat hanger but bend the end over and flatten it so it slides through easier and doesnt pierce through the rubber

On the second gen you need to loosen the fuse box and use a piece of fencing wire to pull the new wire through.

Well, have taken another look at this today, with no success. I'd rather pass the spkr wire through from inside the car and there's just no easy way to do it. Even if you remove the fuse box there's still a white plastic cover blocking access to the door hole/grommet. I'd be interested to hear from anyone else who's done this recently - the design is pretty frustrating. I'd almost be better off just drilling a new hole to pass the cable through... it just shouldn't be this hard :-(.

unless you are fanatical about the type of speaker wire you use,cant you just use the existing factory wires...some one must know what sort of "power "they can handle..

What suburb are you in? Or we can all take turns at it on a wednesday meet?

unless you are fanatical about the type of speaker wire you use,cant you just use the existing factory wires...some one must know what sort of "power "they can handle..

Yes - that was my original plan.... I hacked into the harness behind the h/u but speaker not working wired up to the amp. I'm now not sure what the problem is - I figured if I ran wire direct to the speaker I could at least 'problem solve' the issue. And the speakers are fine... have been running them direct off the head unit. Amp is powering up so problem is seemingly not there... which made me wonder whether the factory wiring was not up to the task. Who knows... maybe I need to revisit my wiring and check that everything is OK again, and then try it all over. Very frustrated - such a pain pulling everything apart only to have it not work they way you expect it to!

I'm using a brand new amp kit, new RCAs so they should all be OK. The amp is used... but should also be OK as it's had little use.

I'll have another look 2moro eve.

i did mine some time ago but i can have a look at it tomorrow and let you know how if you like.

Yes - that was my original plan.... I hacked into the harness behind the h/u but speaker not working wired up to the amp. I'm now not sure what the problem is - I figured if I ran wire direct to the speaker I could at least 'problem solve' the issue. And the speakers are fine... have been running them direct off the head unit. Amp is powering up so problem is seemingly not there... which made me wonder whether the factory wiring was not up to the task. Who knows... maybe I need to revisit my wiring and check that everything is OK again, and then try it all over. Very frustrated - such a pain pulling everything apart only to have it not work they way you expect it to!

I'm using a brand new amp kit, new RCAs so they should all be OK. The amp is used... but should also be OK as it's had little use.

I'll have another look 2moro eve.

How are you getting the signal from the head unit to the amp....? Is it the factory unit or aftermarket ?

If it is factory,have you put in line converters to drop the signal input from a high to a low frequency ?

Signal is via the RCA outs on the (aftermkt) H/U - 2 sets of them - going to the 4 ch amp.

do any of the speakers work.....

is there a setting on the h/u to set for the line outs...??

what i did was take off the drivers side guard

take off the lower dash, move the fuse box out the way and fed it through that way

takes nowhere near as long (but is much more messy cos you need to take the pannels off etc

what head unit are you running?

do any of the speakers work.....

is there a setting on the h/u to set for the line outs...??

All speakers have been running off head unit... so I may (to check the amp is actually OK) run the 6x9s into the amp and then test (this will be a lot easier as I can run some temporary wires to the 6x9s in the boot). If they work, then I've cut into the wrong wires at the rear of the H/U. That said, I double & triple checked and it all looked good.

what head unit are you running?

It's a clarion 2 din unit - 2 sets of RCA outs.

what i did was take off the drivers side guard

take off the lower dash, move the fuse box out the way and fed it through that way

takes nowhere near as long (but is much more messy cos you need to take the pannels off etc

Ah okay, that's what I was thinking I"d need to do. By 'lower dash', you are meaning the plactic cover in the driver's footwell beneath the steering wheel? Even with fuse box out of the way (there's a bolt beneath it) I still couldn't see any easy way of getting the wire through as there was a plastic white cover that also looked like it would need to be removed to enable access, just above the fuse box.

when the amp is connected does the signal light go on? or try checking the fuses.

Just keep trying to poke the metal/wire through the grommet and pulling the wire through... you'll get it eventually! Took me a few hours, but was def worth it....
Pretty sure I poked the wire through from the door end, as its kinda hard to feed from the other side....

I just did this on the weekend with help from 380FTW and my mate carl.. here's how we did it

Passenger:

(1) Start with the door trim removed and unbolt the plastic speaker surround
(2) Remove glovebox and surrounding plastic bits, and pull back carpet (requires removing scuff guard etc)
(4) pull the rubber gromet off the car side.. it basically wraps around a plastic gromet so just lever it around a bit.. might need a screw driver to get it started
(4) Unbolt the door and lay it down on some tyres or something
(5) You can then remove the plastic connector just inside the car body so you can completely pull the door away
(6) You can now pull the whole assembly into the door and pull it out the speaker area
(7) [back inside the car] Use a coat hanger to poke around the black plastic thing screwed up against the body on the inside (above the carpet) and try get it out to the body.. may not work so you may have to unscrew the plastic thing (I did but i'm not sure its necessary).. then you can pull your speaker wire through the body to the inside of the plastic gromet and then through the door and then pull it temrporarily out the speaker whole to then run it the right way through the rubber gromet.. I found with stiff enough speaker wire i could poke it through on its own after i straightened the whole thing out but you can also use a coat hanger.
(8) Your wire is now outside the gromet, reverse everything through.. you will need to pull the grey plastic gromet out of the car body in order to get the gromet back over it.


Drivers door is a bit easier it pokes in above the fuse holder etc, so you dont need to fiddle with the black plastic thing but most of the rest is the same.. it is honestly very very difficult to get a coat hanger through it without unbolting the door and almost impossible to unplug the connector... if you do it this way I promise you will be faster.. prob took 20-30 minutes per door max this way but really needs 2 preferably 3 people to help with the door part.

I just did this on the weekend with help from 380FTW and my mate carl.. here's how we did it

Passenger:
(4) Unbolt the door and lay it down on some tyres or something


Jesus... I can't believe you had to remove the entire door to get this happening.... that's a level of effort I didn't expect to have to go to. Thanks for the write up.

you dont need to unbolt the door
1) take door trim and speaker baffle off.
2) remove trims under steering wheel. remove scuff gaurds and fuse box
3) remove the rubber grommet from door and body with a screwdriver prying slowly.
4) using a coat hanger with the end bent over feed it through the grommet may need some silicone spray to allow it to slide through.
4) once through the grommet poke around where the grommet connects to the car until youre inside. pull the required length of cable through .
5) fit grommets and youre done.

its usually easier with 2 people as is anything. hope this helps if you get stuck just yell out

What i did was i didnt feed the wire fully through the grommet, i cut the top and bottom of the rubber grommet then i poked the wire through the grommet out the top of the grommet then ran it outside of the rubber and then into the door via a cut on the bottom of the grommet. This way the speaker wire is only exposed in the mid section. But if i had to do it again i would take the door off and save myself some time.

I'm doing this tomorrow.
Looks like the door is the way to go.
Is it just 4 main bolts and the middle one?
Do i have to just hold the door out to make it easier? or fully remove the actual door?

Yeah 4 bolts + middle black retainer/spring thing.. once they come off the only thing holding it on is that wire which you want to unplug to make it easiest to get through there anyway.


It sounds hard to remove the door but honestly, it's not.. will be much easier/faster, i promise.

I'm doing this tomorrow.
Looks like the door is the way to go.
Is it just 4 main bolts and the middle one?
Do i have to just hold the door out to make it easier? or fully remove the actual door?

why dont you try with out removing the door?

why dont you try with out removing the door?

Would've been almost impossible with the space in between .
Man, taking the doors off is definitely a 2 man job , not a man + woman job . Unfortunately i learnt the hard way.
scratched my paint :(

way i did mine on both sides was remove the door trims remove the gromet from the door side, from the door piller side remove the gromet and the plastic locking clip large square thing the grommet slips over pass the wire out the door then feed it through the grommet and plastic clip and into the piller, mount the rubber back over the mounting clip and lock it into the pillar then do the door side, from memory there is tape or something covering the inside hole of the pillar, both doors on the car

Would've been almost impossible with the space in between .
Man, taking the doors off is definitely a 2 man job , not a man + woman job . Unfortunately i learnt the hard way.
scratched my paint :(

its not impossible i did mine without taking the doors off

Would've been almost impossible with the space in between .
Man, taking the doors off is definitely a 2 man job , not a man + woman job . Unfortunately i learnt the hard way.
scratched my paint :(


Ouch :( Sorry to hear you scratched the paint :(.. I hope you got the speaker stuff all done fine though. Scratch bad?